A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

[Blake]

3 minutes ago, rickca said:

https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/?do=findComment&comment=836649

 

 

Thanks!

 

[d_elm]

3 hours ago, Lobbster said:

Huh!?

My AC unit is outside my listening room, probably 15ft from my gear (through a exterior wood wall) which I can shut off when I'm listening. However last year my neighbors installed solar panels and the wiring comes down this same side with inverter on the inside of the opposing wall, say 24ft away.  Is this likely to have an impact? Is there a simple shield I can make against my exterior wall - it's a blind side no one sees anyway ?

I have found aluminum foil will block radiation from a cordless phone.    I use a Comet ED88T multi-band meter to investigate radiation from house wiring and devices.

[Blake]

1 hour ago, rickca said:

https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/?do=findComment&comment=836649

 

 

I assumed this process involved cutting/soldering/re-terminating.  Now, I see that you are simply sliding two layers of the Electriduct tinned copper braid over the existing cable and then twisting some of the braid strands together and then taping it together.  So that is why members are saying it is easily reversible.?

 

A few questions from this JSSG 360 diy noob:

 

1. Rajiv mentions twisting wires from the two tinned copper braids together.  Is he just separating out a few strands from each of the two braids and twisting them together, or does this tinned copper braid have an actual wire incorporated into the braid?

 

2. Does the tinned braid have to make physical contact with the plugs on the cable, without any tape between?

 

3.  For a usb cable with separate power/data legs, do you put two separate tinned copper braids on each leg?

 

4. For a usb cable like the Curious, which has a separate naked leg, is it OK for the tinned copper braid to be taped on to the naked leg?

 

5. What size tinned copper braid do people buy to fit over a usb cable?

 

6. Would it matter if the tinned copper braid is substantially larger in diameter than the cable?

 

  

[mikicasellas]

While i still in the hunt for the Streamer which fits best with my system to put aside the 2012 macMini and can make a significant reduction in noise, i had the chance to purchase the last upgrade from Louis Motek´s LessLoss the Firewall 64X, i juts received mine two days ago with the suggestion of leaving it for at least several weeks before it can show its fully potential, oh man this little magic thing has put my system so far in another level of clarity, blackness dimension and easy to hear even my records that just could not hear them before, only 3 days and this thing is a HUGE improvement at least in my system which i consider is already a good one, i am going to ask another which i will use on the DAC, this one i put it in the MacMini and to be honest i never thought it could made a lot of difference in the Mac mini, really wow! very recommended!

 

I have to say that i have no agenda with Mr. Motek, only the fact that every time i have had something from him is a hit and i don't have a lot from him

 

I suggest this little piece of magic!!

 

[hurka]

here the new version of the lt3045,can connect together, 1v required vioc pin,

[Bricki]

12 hours ago, Blake said:

 

I assumed this process involved cutting/soldering/re-terminating.  Now, I see that you are simply sliding two layers of the Electriduct tinned copper braid over the existing cable and then twisting some of the braid strands together and then taping it together.  So that is why members are saying it is easily reversible.?

 

A few questions from this JSSG 360 diy noob:

 

1. Rajiv mentions twisting wires from the two tinned copper braids together.  Is he just separating out a few strands from each of the two braids and twisting them together, or does this tinned copper braid have an actual wire incorporated into the braid?

 

2. Does the tinned braid have to make physical contact with the plugs on the cable, without any tape between?

 

3.  For a usb cable with separate power/data legs, do you put two separate tinned copper braids on each leg?

 

4. For a usb cable like the Curious, which has a separate naked leg, is it OK for the tinned copper braid to be taped on to the naked leg?

 

5. What size tinned copper braid do people buy to fit over a usb cable?

 

6. Would it matter if the tinned copper braid is substantially larger in diameter than the cable?

 

  

1. He is just twisting a few of the frayed ends together - really though, all that is required is contact between the two layers however a bit of pressure from some tightly wrapped electrical tape and twisting some frayed ends together is probably a good idea ?. 

 

2. Ideally you don't want to make contact with the plugs. The idea is to wrap a Faraday cage over the cable without any electrical conduction between the cable and the shield. Probably best to cover your plugs with some insulation like some tape first. 

 

3. I have a curious cable and just wrapped the whole thing in one JSSG 360 

 

4. I have done this to my curious and didn't bother insulating the 5v cable

 

5. 3/8" (9.5mm) will fit for both layers. It will expand - if it's a tight fit you can use my chopstick method posted further above. 

 

6. Probably not - but don't go too big

 

?

 

Also, as the braid expands in diameter it shrinks in length, so cut a bit longer than your cable and then it will get shorter as it expands over the plugs - then longer again once past the plug and onto the cable. 

 

Have fun and let us know what you reckon ?

[Cornan]

On 7/22/2018 at 10:47 AM, seeteeyou said:

You could power Singxer F1 with battery-powered LT3045 (with 5V output) and it's only 200 RMB

 

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=565126246341

 

To feed Singxer F1 with an external power source, you could try some USB cables that are similar to the ones linked below

 

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=18645273306

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=18651345785

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=22596647235

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=36712132856

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38636625250

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=41118241163

 

One leg for data and then another leg for power.

 

I ordered the battery-powered 2A LT3045 on eBay the other day. Hopefully it will arrive within a month or so!  

 

 

Before I ordered it I actually tried to power my Aries Mini with my 20000mAh/6A output Li-ion battery through LS-HPULN without success. Since the LS-HPULN can only handle 5A and the battery provides 6A I´ll guess that´s the reason.

Anyway, as soon as I have got it in house I will try it and report back how it turns out powering the GI output of my BluWave board instead of Gophert csp-3205II>LT3045>MS-HPULN (3A). I really like the idea that the final path to the DAC have fully isolated battery supply with LT3045s (especially when the current draw is extremely low). Let´s see if it improve things or not. Otherwise it will be a very handy device to use elsewhere.  

 

BTW. I will use 18650 LifePO4s for this board. No Li-ions if possible (using a separate charger for LiFePO4).

 

 

[hurka]

7 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Otherwise it will be a very handy device to use

yeah,the older version no sign witch in or out,so many times demaged my stuff,become 8v 

[Cornan]

16 minutes ago, hurka said:

yeah,the older version no sign witch in or out,so many times demaged my stuff,become 8v 

 

Thanks, that´s good to know. I will check and mark-up the input/output when I receive it (if it is not labeled). Edit. Just noticed that the output is labeled!  

[HeeBroG]

10 hours ago, mikicasellas said:

While i still in the hunt for the Streamer which fits best with my system to put aside the 2012 macMini and can make a significant reduction in noise, i had the chance to purchase the last upgrade from Louis Motek´s LessLoss the Firewall 64X, i juts received mine two days ago with the suggestion of leaving it for at least several weeks before it can show its fully potential, oh man this little magic thing has put my system so far in another level of clarity, blackness dimension and easy to hear even my records that just could not hear them before, only 3 days and this thing is a HUGE improvement at least in my system which i consider is already a good one, i am going to ask another which i will use on the DAC, this one i put it in the MacMini and to be honest i never thought it could made a lot of difference in the Mac mini, really wow! very recommended!

 

I have to say that i have no agenda with Mr. Motek, only the fact that every time i have had something from him is a hit and i don't have a lot from him

 

I suggest this little piece of magic!!

 

Does this plug into the standard MacMini power inlet?

[octaviars]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

Since the LS-HPULN can only handle 5A and the battery provides 6A I´ll guess that´s the reason.

 

The battery will only provide the current that the component connected to it draws. If a Aries draws 1A for example the battery will not put out 6A just because it can put out 6A.

[Cornan]

13 minutes ago, octaviars said:

 

The battery will only provide the current that the component connected to it draws. If a Aries draws 1A for example the battery will not put out 6A just because it can put out 6A so a 5A PSU will work with that aslong as the voltages are right. 

 

OK, then I´ll guess there must be another reason for it not to work? Output voltage of the battery was OK when I checked it. 16,3VDC into LT3045 & LS-HPULN (tried with LS-HPULN only as well) with 14VDC output as required by Aries Mini. Anyway, I will search for clues during the weekend!   Maybe Li-ion have something against aluminium polymer caps and/or rectifier diods? ?

[Cornan]

BTW. I got a great reply from the seller of the battery-powered 2A LT3045 board. It does´nt only work with 18650 size LiFePO4 batteries (as long as the  cell voltage does´nt exceed 4,2V...which it does´nt). It will charge them as well due to the balanced protection board. ?‍♀️

[Lobbster]

19 hours ago, d_elm said:

I have found aluminum foil will block radiation from a cordless phone.    I use a Comet ED88T multi-band meter to investigate radiation from house wiring and devices.

Wonder if you can rent those devices. 

I guess the point is their solar inverter is injecting dirty power into my neighbourhoods power lines. I recollect calling in our utility to test some power dips we thought we were having and he was not a fan of solar, especially in Canada. I always assumed we have clean hydro power in our suburban area.

 

I'm still scratching my head about the use of JSSG360 on cables and the improvements people are experiencing has little to do with noise in the mains, but something going on in the room. Indoor cross contamination, outside from the neighbours inverter, or both..... ?

 

[Johnseye]

23 minutes ago, Lobbster said:

Wonder if you can rent those devices. 

I guess the point is their solar inverter is injecting dirty power into my neighbourhoods power lines. I recollect calling in our utility to test some power dips we thought we were having and he was not a fan of solar, especially in Canada. I always assumed we have clean hydro power in our suburban area.

 

I'm still scratching my head about the use of JSSG360 on cables and the improvements people are experiencing has little to do with noise in the mains, but something going on in the room. Indoor cross contamination, outside from the neighbours inverter, or both..... ?

 

 

EMI or RF interference is everywhere. All our cables and components will be effected by it.  Cables are like antennas for EMI/RF.  All devices in your house and around your house either transmitting or receiving data are a primary source.  Think cell phones and wireless.  As more homes become updated with IoT all those devices will contribute.  I have 4 people in my house either using a phone, tablet, laptop or game controller at all times.  I also have a lot of home automation with IoT.  My neighbor's probably do as well.  If you live near a cell tower or a business think about all the data.  Our devices themselves, DAC, switch, preamp, etc emit their own EMI and that's internal to the device.  This is the reason for the Faraday cage.  I'm no expert so I'm sure there's more to it I'm not explaining.

 

I started covering the insides of my components and chips with 3M adhesive EMI/RF shielding and noticed an immediate improvement.  Then I started using ferrite cores on cables for another improvement.  The JSSG is another step in the prevention direction.  All solutions have an audible benefit as noise is prevented from entering the components.

[ElviaCaprice]

Yesterday, I tackled the upgrade to my single 2.5" HDD SATA drive sitting externally outside my NUC, currently powered separately by a single LPS-1 @ 5V.  Thought I would try the mobo of the NUC to power the drive instead of the LPS-1, considering I was powering the NUC mobo via Paul Hynes SR7, maybe it would be an improvement to SQ.  Also I would update to a JS 360 cable.  

 

Conclusion, SQ took a hit with resolution and glare.  Do not power your HDD or SSD via mobo, the back feed of noise from the drive to the mobo via the SATA power will be a degradation to sound.  

[austinpop]

6 hours ago, Bricki said:

1. He is just twisting a few of the frayed ends together - really though, all that is required is contact between the two layers however a bit of pressure from some tightly wrapped electrical tape and twisting some frayed ends together is probably a good idea ?. 

 

Exactly.

 

6 hours ago, Bricki said:

5. 3/8" (9.5mm) will fit for both layers. It will expand - if it's a tight fit you can use my chopstick method posted further above. 

 

Yup. Or a pencil.

 

6 hours ago, Bricki said:

Also, as the braid expands in diameter it shrinks in length, so cut a bit longer than your cable and then it will get shorter as it expands over the plugs - then longer again once past the plug and onto the cable. 

 

+1. Learned this the hard way! ?

[Blake]

7 hours ago, Bricki said:

Have fun and let us know what you reckon ?

 

 

 Hey Bricki/Austinpop, many thanks for the assistance!

[lmitche]

On 7/18/2018 at 1:56 PM, sbenyo said:

 

I am using AMD Threadripper 1920x which also works great.

 

20 minutes ago, Blake said:

 

 

 Hey Bricki/Austinpop, many thanks for the assistance!

Remember to add some insulation between layers of tinned copper! Except at the endpoints of course.

[lmitche]

OK, so 20 more feet of Gotham GAC 4/1 ultra pro arrived on Wednesday.  So yesterday I made a new cable  to be used from the 19 volt Sigma 11 power supply into the HDPLEX 400 watt dc to dc PSU feeding the 24 pin connection on my motherboard.  I used two cables in parallel in a 3 + 3 config for ve+ and ve-. This completes Gotham JSSG 360 treatment for both the 6 pin to hdplex and 8 pin power connectors on the motherboard.

 

As expected things took another leap in SQ this time necessitating another couple dbs of lower volume. It's hard to describe the SQ. There is absolute clarity with extreme details into every source on the sound stage.  This happens regardless of resolution of source,  with everything upsampled to DSD512. I have never heard anything like this before, but then what do I know?

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, lmitche said:

As expected things took another leap in SQ this time necessitating another couple dbs of lower volume.

 

I find this part especially interesting since I have many times experienced lower dB and higher dB that both improves SQ but in different ways. I have actually started to note down what happens when lower db and higher dB occurs. Note ready to reveal

anything yet, but overall lower dB equals clarity and air and higher dB equals bass performance and low end dynamics. I’m certainly leaning towards lower dB since clairity, air, 3D and 4D is what I prefer personally. However, I would love to get it 70% lower dB and 30% higher dB! ?

[Bruce Orr]

Exciting to read about and personally experience the SQ bump provided by the DIY JSSG 360. Now that I've convinced myself this is very easy to do, I'm trying to figure out all the places I might benefit. Do we have positive experiences applying the 360 to these?

 

I have also listed these in the order in which I think the 360 might have the most noticeable improvement (closer to the DAC, the better)

- LPS 1.2 Meanwell/power cords? Presume it would be applied only between the transformer and device plug-in? One of these powers the SoTM USB ultra, the other powers my modded audio switch

- Innuos Zenith power cord?

- DAC power cord?

- Conditioner power cord?

- Any interconnects?

- I have an SPS-500 powering a router? 

- Mac (Roon Core) and attached external hard drive?

 

Thanks,

 

Bruce

[mikicasellas]

7 hours ago, HeeBroG said:

Does this plug into the standard MacMini power inlet?

No i have a special adapter which Louis made for me 3 years ago, look:

In this case it has the first generation of firewall attached (don't get worry about that), important thing is to make the adaptor, then you can add the NEW firewall 64X (wood one) as you see in the picture...

 

[mozes]

Has anyone tried JSSG 360 on analogue interconnects or speaker cables? 

[Johnseye]

2 hours ago, lmitche said:

OK, so 20 more feet of Gotham GAC 4/1 ultra pro arrived on Wednesday.  So yesterday I made a new cable  to be used from the 19 volt Sigma 11 power supply into the HDPLEX 400 watt dc to dc PSU feeding the 24 pin connection on my motherboard.  I used two cables in parallel in a 3 + 3 config for ve+ and ve-. This completes Gotham JSSG 360 treatment for both the 6 pin to hdplex and 8 pin power connectors on the motherboard.

 

As expected things took another leap in SQ this time necessitating another couple dbs of lower volume. It's hard to describe the SQ. There is absolute clarity with extreme details into every source on the sound stage.  This happens regardless of resolution of source,  with everything upsampled to DSD512. I have never heard anything like this before, but then what do I know?

 

What size shrink wrap is best with a single run of the Gotham cable?  3/8 or 1/2"?