A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

austinpop · January 18

Hi folks, OP here.

Entertaining as it might be to get into a speculative discussion of whether something is "worth" its cost, it's off topic here. If you've got direct listening experiences to report, please do so.

Psilonaught · February 9

please can someone explain to me the differences between the blue and grey versions of these two transceivers?

The 1318 version (blue) works fine in my router, but the 1324 one (grey) doesn't. Presumably there is something subtly different in the spec of these?

Fortunately my Hifi Rose RS130 likes either, so I am able to use the 1324 at the streamer end, and the 1318 at the router end. I find the 1318BTL ever to slightly bright, hence trying the 1324 which is more organic sounding.

FTLF1324P2BTV has a blue pull, like the 1318BTL so I wonder if that will work with my router 🤨

Iving · February 9

This may help

dougms3 · February 21

On 6/14/2020 at 3:43 AM, elan120 said:

Cables...

After having the EPS and ATX power supply built, I now move into cable making phase, while working on the first cable, I decided to record the sequence in more details to share here, hopefully this will help more people interested in trying out the long discussed Mundorf solid core silver JSSG360 DC cable.

1. Slide cotton tube over the Mundorf solid core silver hook up wire.

2. Solder wires to the connector. In this cable, I have GX16-4 on one end and Oyaide DC-2.1G on the other end. I started this wire from the GX16-4 side.

3. After the wires are soldered, slide a short heat shrink tubing over the cotten tubes to help protect the end.

4. Reassemble the GX16-4 connector.

5. Twist the two wires.

6. Getting the Oyaide DC-2.1G side ready. Slide the connector outer shell over the wires, cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing. The smaller diameter one is to protect the positive lead after wire is soldered to the connector, and the larger diameter heat shrink tubing is to help protect the cotton tube ends.

7. Solder wires to the connector. It is easier to solder the negative lead to the connector first, and then solder the positive lead.

8. Heat shrink the smaller tubing over the positive lead solder join.

9. Slide the larger heat shrink tube over the end of cotton tube.

10. Test the connector to make sure wires soldered is open.

11. Slide the outer shell over the connector. It is a good idea to check continuity again after the connector is reassembled.

12. Base cable completed.

13. Now we will start working on JSSG360 shielding by sliding the tinned copper braid over the base cable from the Oyaide connector side.

14. Wrap the tinned copper braid with teflon thread tape. It is easier to work with using 1" wide gas pipe tape.

15. Teflon tape wrapped cable.

16. Before sliding the second layer tinned copper braid, wrap a short section of teflon tape over the end of first tinned copper braid to protect the end and prevent the wires from braid from interfere with the second layer tinned copper braid while sliding over the first one.

17. After the second layer tinned copper braid is slided over the first layer, don't forget to remove that short section teflon tape.

18. Cut one piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing and slide them over the end of two tinned copper braids.

19. Apply heat to heat shrink tubing.

20. Do the same two steps (18 and 19) above for the Oyaide connector side.

21. Check continuity between the tinned copper braid and the connector to ensure it is open.

22. JSSG360 shielding completed.

23. Next is to dress up the cable by cutting the Techflex sleeving to proper length and then slide over the JSSG360 shielding completed cable.

24. Final step is using the same adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to bond them together.

Hope these are clear and simple to follow. Enjoy building them.

I will now move on to work on ATX and EPS cables.