ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!

[sandyk]

5 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

so what is bad about it???

 

and the "screws don't come loose" except he said they DID

They may give the appearance of having come loose ! Screws  in terminal blocks do NOT normally come loose unless there is a LOT of vibration. Seal the screw and you may not be able to tighten the connection again.

[One and a half]

12 minutes ago, sandyk said:

That's VERY bad advice !

The screws don't come loose.

It's more of a compressing /shrinkage problem over time, especially if you had first soldered the strands of wire to avoid a longer term corrosion problem

For high power applications, such as panels, switch-gear and the like, no Loctite is recommended, the connection is made by torque value only depending the size of the bolts, or Nylok nuts are used.

 

First of all the connection has to develop a certain amount of heat before the terminal expands to the sides that causes the bad joint. The tunnel terminal expands, the cable moves and the screw can be tightened. For audio applications, there's not enough heat or vibration to make this happen, maybe the speaker terminals. If a screw terminal becomes loose, it has to do with the thread material, probably as soft as sh$t, large pitch on the thread, that sort of thing. Banana terminals are very good, since the plugs can expand and contract while maintaining pressure on the joint.

 

Once again, @Ralf11 just mouthing the last thing of importance and posting.

 

[Ralf11]

2 hours ago, sandyk said:

 a LOT of vibration

 

 

CA has an entire thread on that

[Cornan]

5 hours ago, fas42 said:

 

There always a logical reason for why the sound changes - but it may be very hard to pin down. As a general rule all audio systems are under-engineered - they work well enough to give good readings for all the typical tests, but our ears give the game away; they still add far too many audible anomalies. What I call a competent system is merely one that is working properly - and that's within the reach of virtually all half decent rigs.

 

Which is why all setups respond to tweaking - you're playing with the levels, and type of audible distortion, and everything one does alters this part of the mix. If the components were made properly in the first place, then none of this fiddling would be necessary, or relevant.

 

 

Logics does’nt make sense until you find the logical reason(s) behind it. The only sensible thing is to try things even if you cannot fully understand all the logical reasons. Nothing in this hobby is perfect, but there is an aweful lot of steps towards perfection. 

 

 

[Audiophile Neuroscience]

4 hours ago, One and a half said:

Once again, @Ralf11 just mouthing the last thing of importance and posting.

 

 

Perhaps he has a screw loose in need of a drop of Loctite Green ?

[AnotherSpin]

10 hours ago, bit01 said:

Hi,

I find that the  screw terminals loosen with time. I do have to re-tighten them from time to time and would not think of shrink wrap over them. Do you have the same experience, if so how do you get around it, holes in shrink, bonded screw to housing, solder?

b.

 

I find that everything in this life loosen with time... Let it go.

[Abtr]

10 hours ago, bit01 said:

Hi,

I find that the  screw terminals loosen with time. I do have to re-tighten them from time to time and would not think of shrink wrap over them. Do you have the same experience, if so how do you get around it, holes in shrink, bonded screw to housing, solder?

b.

Did you apply solder to the wire ends? Basically there's nothing wrong with a screw connector, but you should never tin the wire. A tinned wire will slowly give way to the screw's pressure and become loose.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29861/tinning-wires-that-will-be-screwed-in-to-a-chocolate-block-terminal-strip
 

[sandyk]

41 minutes ago, Abtr said:

Did you apply solder to the wire ends? Basically there's nothing wrong with a screw connector, but you should never tin the wire. A tinned wire will slowly give way to the screw's pressure and become loose.

https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/29861/tinning-wires-that-will-be-screwed-in-to-a-chocolate-block-terminal-strip
 

Quote

…."I've always tinned wire for my own prototypes because I'm always pulling the wires in and out and it prevents the wire from fraying or a little "hair" to creep over to where it doesn't belong. "

 

That is exactly what I do, and for the same reasons.

 Neither is there anything wrong with tinning just the tips of the group of wires to keep them together, as they also pointed out..

[flkin]

For DC plugs, solves the loosening problem.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/free-shipping-10-pcs-5-5-X-2-1mm-DC-Power-plug-female-Plug-DC-5/1802994163.html

[Audiophile Neuroscience]

1 hour ago, AnotherSpin said:

 

I find that everything in this life loosen with time... Let it go.

 

Even our morals??

[AnotherSpin]

1 hour ago, Audiophile Neuroscience said:

 

Even our morals??

 

Why care about things relative in the best case?

[Audiophile Neuroscience]

32 minutes ago, AnotherSpin said:

 

Why care about things relative in the best case?

 

You're right of course. We should aim above morality, "be not simply good; be good for something"

[AnotherSpin]

23 minutes ago, Audiophile Neuroscience said:

 

You're right of course. We should aim above morality, "be not simply good; be good for something"

 

From the same author: "What is morality but immemorial custom?" Anyway, realized person is beyond good, evil and doership at all. I stop here before accusation of trolling fall on my head.

[rah50]

Added a pair of Kemet on the ends of my LT3045 pair between HDPlex and microRendu, VERY NICE!

 

Two more cables to go.

[charlesphoto]

Kemet’s came and later today some wire etc from SonicCraft. 

 

I’m wondering why not solder the Kemet’s onto the lt3045 board - maybe the back where the screw down stand offs are attached? There’s also a slight gap I could get them into between the board and stand off, but couldn’t guarantee a good connection. It seems to me this would solve the problem of the Kemet’s coming first before the wire itself, but perhaps I’m looking at it wrong. 

[Cornan]

25 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

Kemet’s came and later today some wire etc from SonicCraft. 

 

I’m wondering why not solder the Kemet’s onto the lt3045 board - maybe the back where the screw down stand offs are attached? There’s also a slight gap I could get them into between the board and stand off, but couldn’t guarantee a good connection. It seems to me this would solve the problem of the Kemet’s coming first before the wire itself, but perhaps I’m looking at it wrong. 

 

Awesome! 

I can just tell you that I use soldered Kemets on the LS-HPULNs and still the inline DC cable Kemets on each side if the cable improves SQ further. So far I have’nt actually found a place where they don’t improve SQ! ?

 

Looking forward to read about your impressions! ?

[Cornan]

52 minutes ago, rah50 said:

Added a pair of Kemet on the ends of my LT3045 pair between HDPlex and microRendu, VERY NICE!

 

Two more cables to go.

 

Really nice to hear! You will be surpriced how they’ll keep on improving things! ?

[look&listen]

29 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

I’m wondering why not solder the Kemet’s onto the lt3045 board

Careful to heatsink Kemet leads when soldering. Too high heat can degrade performance @ datasheet.

[charlesphoto]

What's the best way to do that, heatsink? 

[Cornan]

I wonder how the Kemets would be like in a USB cable? A bit tricky to get that tested, but I will find a simple way sooner or later! ?

 

Tomorrow I will make a new cable identical to the previous ones, but longer. It will be used between LPS-1.2 & MS-HPULN (3A) and my feeder supply (Gophert csp-3205II set to 12v). That will be very interesting for me personally at least. Currently I am using a Ghent JSSG DC cable there. More about this tomorrow! ?

[mansr]

1 minute ago, Cornan said:

I wonder how the Kemets would be like in a USB cable? A bit tricky to get that tested, but I will find a simple way sooner or later! ?

For USB powered devices? Don't do that. The spec only permits a maximum of 10 μF load capacitance. If you add more, it might trip the over-current protection when plugged in.

[Cornan]

15 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

What's the best way to do that, heatsink? 

 

The best way is to be careful and not to keep the soldering iron in contact with the pins for too long. Otherwise there are soldering irons with adjustable temperatures for this very reason (PCB usually).

[Cornan]

4 minutes ago, mansr said:

For USB powered devices? Don't do that. The spec only permits a maximum of 10 μF load capacitance. If you add more, it might trip the over-current protection when plugged in.

 

Oh, thanks for that info! Can a smaller capitance be used? (below 10uF)

[mansr]

2 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Oh, thanks for that info! Can a smaller capitance be used? (below 10uF)

Depends on how much capacitance whatever you're powering has already. That said, most ports will probably be fine even with twice the specified maximum, but I wouldn't go much further.

[Cornan]

Just now, mansr said:

Depends on how much capacitance whatever you're powering has already. That said, most ports will probably be fine even with twice the specified maximum, but I wouldn't go much further.

 

Thanks a lot! Very helpful @mansr! Appreciated! ?