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My Kemets here next week. Ordered four of them. Should I use all four? I will solder straight to the Oyaide pins and then wire after. Or something like that depending. I think I'll look into more exotic wire for a final build once I get an MP audio power supply. An Uptone lps 1.2 probably wouldn't hurt either except for the $.

 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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15 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

My Kemets here next week. Ordered four of them. Should I use all four? I will solder straight to the Oyaide pins and then wire after. Or something like that depending. I think I'll look into more exotic wire for a final build once I get an MP audio power supply. An Uptone lps 1.2 probably wouldn't hurt either except for the $.

 

 

Remember to solder the wire to the middle of the Kemet legs and the low end legs of the Kemet legs to the Oyiade plugs. Otherwise you’ve missed the point. Of course use all four Kemet’s. They’ll improve SQ almost anywhere IME. LPS-1.2 is great, but LS-HPULN is even better in most spots IME.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

Remember to solder the wire to the middle of the Kemet legs and the low end legs of the Kemet legs to the Oyiade plugs. Otherwise you’ve missed the point. Of course use all four Kemet’s. They’ll improve SQ almost anywhere IME. LPS-1.2 is great, but LS-HPULN is even better in most spots IME.

Unless I am missing something, the Kemet would be in parallel regardless of where on the cap legs the wire and Oyaide tabs are attached.

Please repeat what Kemet "colors" go to v+ and v-.

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4 minutes ago, BigGuy said:

Unless I am missing something, the Kemet would be in parallel regardless of where on the cap legs the wire and Oyaide tabs are attached.

Please repeat what Kemet "colors" go to v+ and v-.

 

That would be my thinking too. I just think soldering probably makes a better connection than cramming in the screw connectors. I'll try my best. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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8 hours ago, BigGuy said:

Do we have a theory as to why the addition of a Kemet, etc., across the v+ & v -  could have such an effect?

 

 It's helping to keep the output impedance low, as well as probably increasing HF detail a little more due to the use of VERY Low ESR capacitors ?

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Just tuned into this discussion, and downloaded the data sheet for those Kemets - of course these caps will do good everywhere, for DC, because the impedance curve is ideal; all the HF muck is filtered out to a much greater degree, and the more you put everywhere, the better it will be. Soldering, yes; to the closest you can get to where the legs enter the body, yes - but watch out for soldering temperatures; don't wreck the beast by cooking it!

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4 hours ago, BigGuy said:

Unless I am missing something, the Kemet would be in parallel regardless of where on the cap legs the wire and Oyaide tabs are attached.

Please repeat what Kemet "colors" go to v+ and v-.

 

Yes, in parallel with one leg to -Ve (leg on the same side as the blue corner on the top of the cap) and the other leg to +Ve.

The caps is charged and supplies its own isolated power. If the cables are attached into the plugs together with the legs there will most likely be a combination of power from both the wire and cap, so not 100% isolated unless the caps provide all the power in my view.

 

 

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4 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

 

That would be my thinking too. I just think soldering probably makes a better connection than cramming in the screw connectors. I'll try my best. 

 

Soldering surely makes a better connection, but remember that this mod was far better than before even when the wires was loosely twisted around the upper legs of the Kemet. 

 

 

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5 hours ago, Cornan said:

The caps is charged and supplies its own isolated power. If the cables are attached into the plugs together with the legs there will most likely be a combination of power from both the wire and cap, so not 100% isolated unless the caps provide all the power in my view.

Sorry, but I can't let that bit of misunderstanding go unaddressed. If the electrical connection is good, it makes no difference whatsoever where on the pins the wires are attached. Just imagine cutting the pins between the attachment point and the cap itself. If you did this, the pin ends would simply be extensions of the wires, and current would flow freely. Having the cap attached doesn't change this.

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16 minutes ago, mansr said:

Sorry, but I can't let that bit of misunderstanding go unaddressed. If the electrical connection is good, it makes no difference whatsoever where on the pins the wires are attached. Just imagine cutting the pins between the attachment point and the cap itself. If you did this, the pin ends would simply be extensions of the wires, and current would flow freely. Having the cap attached doesn't change this.

 

Interesting! Let´s assume that there is a positive charge present in the negative wire and a negative charge present in the positive wire of the cable. If I squeeze the wires into the plug together with the Kemet legs inside a screw terminal DC plug. Surely some of the wires will be in direct contact with the DC plug giving away a bit of negative charge on the positive wire av vice versa. The Kemet will still be charged ofcourse but cannot actually provide 100% of the power and therefore not ensure that both polarities are clean(er) from opposite charges. Charging the Kemets further up the legs will however ensure that much more clean power is provided (even if there is still some leakage from the actual caps) in my point of view.

 

I did notice that having just a quite loose connection of the upper legs of the Kemets was much better than a tight connection inside the screw terminal DC plugs together with the wires. Is there any other plausible reasons why this is a better option in your point of view?

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Interesting! Let´s assume that there is a positive charge present in the negative wire and a negative charge present in the positive wire of the cable. If I squeeze the wires into the plug together with the Kemet legs inside a screw terminal DC plug. Surely some of the wires will be in direct contact with the DC plug giving away a bit of negative charge on the positive wire av vice versa. The Kemet will still be charged ofcourse but cannot actually provide 100% of the power and therefore not ensure that both polarities are clean(er) from opposite charges. Charging the Kemets further up the legs will however ensure that much more clean power is provided (even if there is still some leakage from the actual caps) in my point of view.

Unless you're dealing with extremely high frequencies, many GHz, the capacitor pins and wire ends, no matter how they are attached, can be regarded as a point connection with zero resistance. Moving the attachment a few millimetres simply makes no difference.

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2 minutes ago, mansr said:

Unless you're dealing with extremely high frequencies, many GHz, the capacitor pins and wire ends, no matter how they are attached, can be regarded as a point connection with zero resistance. Moving the attachment a few millimetres simply makes no difference.

 

Well it does make a subjective SQ difference according to my own ears on my first cable version. However, I will continue to try different point connections to see if it is consitant in other spots as well. I have another 10 pcs Kemet A750´s coming in a few days.

 

 

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45 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

If you have to use a longer cable, then yes JSSG'ing it etc will be beneficial, but the best solution is to lose the cable altogether and just use short as possible lengths of largest gauge hook up wire. That's my theory. 

 

 It's not just theory, it's common sense !

 A direct connection from the PSU to the device to be powered is ALWAYS the optimum method.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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2 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

 

Thinking about all of this, I've come to the conclusion that it's better to think about connection vs cable. The best of course would be short direct wire connections between the boards of the LPS, Lt3045 and mR (where the likes of the Signature Rendu probably gain an advantage). If you have to use a longer cable, then yes JSSG'ing it etc will be beneficial, but the best solution is to lose the cable altogether and just use short as possible lengths of largest gauge hook up wire. That's my theory. 

 

 

 

Yes, connections are everything. I did my own design of a chip amp assembly - and the real work was thinking as to how to organise the parts in 3D space so that every connection was optimal - zero path length was the goal! Looks a bit peculiar - but, it gets the SQ job done, nicely ...

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Thanks @Cornan and @charlesphoto for your on going experiments. I have been trying to follow along and have had some failures with some cables sounding worse than the coax one I made last week. However, I have moved my lps1 to sit on top of my sMS-200 separated by a wooden block and isolation discs and made the shortest possible positive wire with the largest gauge cut down to fit in the screw terminals. Then the same gauge negative wire somewhat longer to keep more distance between it and the positive. I have had it burning in for 24 hours now and it makes the lps1 like a new psu. Everything is a lot cleaner but not in a washed out clinical way - cleaner in a natural and relaxed way with natural tone and texture. Annoying screach on brass instruments and some vocal pieces has been hugely reduced, restoring a more natural and far less irritating sound. There is also more depth ?. Now I'm gonna have to order some of those kemets. Where's the best place to purchase? Mouser wants to charge $24 to ship to Australia ?

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33 minutes ago, Bricki said:

 

It is the correct Kemet A750 you´ve got there. I buy mine from RS-Components https://se.rs-online.com/web/p/aluminium-capacitors/1248271/. Their freight charges are just slightly better than Mouser´s though, so I think the suggestion from @Boomboy is a good option if you order just the Kemet´s! :) 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bricki said:

Thanks @Cornan and @charlesphoto for your on going experiments. I have been trying to follow along and have had some failures with some cables sounding worse than the coax one I made last week. However, I have moved my lps1 to sit on top of my sMS-200 separated by a wooden block and isolation discs and made the shortest possible positive wire with the largest gauge cut down to fit in the screw terminals. Then the same gauge negative wire somewhat longer to keep more distance between it and the positive. I have had it burning in for 24 hours now and it makes the lps1 like a new psu. Everything is a lot cleaner but not in a washed out clinical way - cleaner in a natural and relaxed way with natural tone and texture. Annoying screach on brass instruments and some vocal pieces has been hugely reduced, restoring a more natural and far less irritating sound. There is also more depth ?. Now I'm gonna have to order some of those kemets. Where's the best place to purchase? Mouser wants to charge $24 to ship to Australia ?

 

‘Yep, exactly what I’.ve heard with my latest short pieces of 12awg copper. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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