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ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!


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10 minutes ago, mansr said:

The worst that can happen is that the port shuts down, so experimenting is safe should you be thus inclined. Of course, you'll probably get better results using a split cable and external power supply.

 

Thanks again! ? Would this Panasonic OS-CON 32V/22uF work do you think or do I need to go even lower with the capicitance (ISO Regen input)?

 

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/aluminium-capacitors/1000079/

 

 

 

 

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Post doesn’t arrive until this afternoon with my final wire choice, so for the meantime shoved a couple of Kemet’s in with the wire coming in and out of the lt3045. Subtle but definitely better, particularly the top end. Seems to reduce a bit of glare. Tried a Ghent USB JSSG’d USB cable in place of the Uptone USCPB as well. Bit better high end but where’d the bass go? Back to the USPCB. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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17 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

Post doesn’t arrive until this afternoon with my final wire choice, so for the meantime shoved a couple of Kemet’s in with the wire coming in and out of the lt3045. Subtle but definitely better, particularly the top end. Seems to reduce a bit of glare. Tried a Ghent USB JSSG’d USB cable in place of the Uptone USCPB as well. Bit better high end but where’d the bass go? Back to the USPCB. 

 

Try it elsewhere as well. I am confident the Kemet’s will improve a lot more if you add them in other additional DC cable paths. It made a big difference when I did the same thing in my setup. Leakage I’ll guess, but I’m not an expert! ?

 

Also, do not forget that the soldering onto Kemets pins (and pins into DC plug) improved a lot here. You can try to twist them onto the pins first if you do not beleive me. It is clearly better than directly into the DC plugs.

 

 

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16 hours ago, One and a half said:

For high power applications, such as panels, switch-gear and the like, no Loctite is recommended, the connection is made by torque value only depending the size of the bolts, or Nylok nuts are used.

 

First of all the connection has to develop a certain amount of heat before the terminal expands to the sides that causes the bad joint. The tunnel terminal expands, the cable moves and the screw can be tightened. For audio applications, there's not enough heat or vibration to make this happen, maybe the speaker terminals. If a screw terminal becomes loose, it has to do with the thread material, probably as soft as sh$t, large pitch on the thread, that sort of thing. Banana terminals are very good, since the plugs can expand and contract while maintaining pressure on the joint.

 

Once again, @Ralf11 just mouthing the last thing of importance and posting.

 

 

this wasn't a high power connection - the guy has a screw terminal that comes loose

 

Loctite is quite appropriate here despite your idiotic post which is devoid of any understanding of how threaded fasteners operate

 

BTW, where is your little lap dog who usually posts after you?

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1 hour ago, Cornan said:
1 hour ago, charlesphoto said:

What's the best way to do that, heatsink? 

 

The best way is to be careful and not to keep the soldering iron in contact with the pins for too long

Not adequate advice. Yes short heat time & proper wattage iron is good. But some caps, most diodes, transistors, LEDs & more sensitive to overheat. Best to attach metal clips (alligator clips, cross-action tweezers, &c.) to leads close to part body to draw heat away from sensitive materials inside device. Maybe one be quick enough with iron, but maybe not, & not always. Better be safe and not damage parts causing troubleshooting time, replacement lead time, or degradation.

If not know these things, maybe better to not solder electronic things.

 

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21 minutes ago, look&listen said:

Not adequate advice. Yes short heat time & proper wattage iron is good. But some caps, most diodes, transistors, LEDs & more sensitive to overheat. Best to attach metal clips (alligator clips, cross-action tweezers, &c.) to leads close to part body to draw heat away from sensitive materials inside device. Maybe one be quick enough with iron, but maybe not, & not always. Better be safe and not damage parts causing troubleshooting time, replacement lead time, or degradation.

If not know these things, maybe better to not solder electronic things.

 

 

Now you scare unsecure people off L&L. The purpose of all this is to make it simple. It is simple. I have soldered a lot (but I’m not great at it still) of sensitive devices with my plain gas driven solder iron (very hot) and have actually never ever had an accident with sensitive components. I really think that you’l need to be very rough or unthoughtful to sensitive devices to end up with parts that fail IRL.

 

 

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17 minutes ago, Cornan said:

The purpose of all this is to make it simple. It is simple.

No, purpose is to be effective. As simple as possible, but not simpler (AE) is nice to.

 

18 minutes ago, Cornan said:

have actually never ever had an accident with sensitive components.

How do you know? measured performance before-after?  Maybe have performance degradation, maybe life span shortened ?

I believe in reasonable best practices.

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8 minutes ago, look&listen said:

No, purpose is to be effective. As simple as possible, but not simpler (AE) is nice to.

 

How do you know? measured performance before-after?  Maybe have performance degradation, maybe life span shortened ?

I believe in reasonable best practices.

 

No purpose of being effective when experimenting. It is all about being a Sherlock Holmes finding clues, not heading directly towards the solution.

 

I don’t really care as long as it improves SQ. Then I know if it is worth a persue or not.

 

 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

 

 

explain this

 

do you know what purple loctite is?

 

Do you REALLY  think that people are likely to follow your stupid recommendations to the letter ?

The screws in normal Audio equipment do NOT need to be locked using any substance, provided that the terminal blocks used are of a proper quality and the recommendations about using solder on the leads are followed !

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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9 minutes ago, look&listen said:

I believe in reasonable best practices.

Yes, follow data sheet recommendations. Use a regulated soldering iron of at least 50 W set to an appropriate temperature for the component and solder type. Limit contact between components and soldering iron to a few seconds per joint. Tin/lead solder is easier to use than the less toxic lead-free variants.

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17 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

Do you REALLY  think that people are likely to follow your stupid recommendations to the letter ?

The screws in normal Audio equipment do NOT need to be locked using any substance, provided that the terminal blocks used are of a proper quality and the recommendations about using solder on the leads are followed !

 

Using purple Loctite doesn't appear to present any issues according to the manufacturer's web page:

 

Quote

Loctite® Purple Threadlocker has many uses; from carburetor screws to eyeglasses to small screws on laptops. Due to its low strength, it can be removed with the same tool used to put the project together. 

 

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/when-and-why-to-use-purple-threadlocker/

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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Exactly.  And the poster said that his terminals are coming loose, sandy.

 

 

the other issue is the use of Tweek, and Frank's belief that it is not adequate...

 

maybe he can detail his listening methodology as to whether a statistical number of trials, and whether he used blind listening

 

I agree Cornan.  For a consumer, why is less important that the result.  But one must ensure the result is actually SQ and not just an expectation that is confirmed for psychological reasons.

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7 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

I agree Cornan.  For a consumer, why is less important that the result.  But one must ensure the result is actually SQ and not just an expectation that is confirmed for psychological reasons.

 

Sorry, but I do not care about ensurancies either. I just care about myself and my own subjective impressions. If you want to follow is up to you and your own ears! ?

 

Sorry, but that is the harsh truth! ?

 

 

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I'm with Cornan on this. I'm certainly thankful for any tips of course (going to use clamping tweezers between Kemet and wire when soldering for example), but I also like the freewheeling  investigative DIY nature esp. as It's just a dc cable. if the caps get screwed up and don't work, well you might hear it or might not, and it all cost pennies. Sounds worse? Snip 'em off! No need for handwringing over this. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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11 hours ago, sandyk said:

That is exactly what I do, and for the same reasons.

Neither is there anything wrong with tinning just the tips of the group of wires to keep them together, as they also pointed out..

Just do *not* apply solder on the copper strands of a wire when using a screw connector. As said, tinned wire strands will give way to the pressure of the screw and become loose. Simply twist the copper strands together and tightly lock the screw. That will be an excellent non-degrading, non-loosening connection.  
 

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18 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

I'm with Cornan on this. I'm certainly thankful for any tips of course (going to use clamping tweezers between Kemet and wire when soldering for example), but I also like the freewheeling  investigative DIY nature esp. as It's just a dc cable. if the caps get screwed up and don't work, well you might hear it or might not, and it all cost pennies. Sounds worse? Snip 'em off! No need for handwringing over this. 

 

It is all like turning fiction into reality. Mission impossible, but hey we can get really close! ?

 

 

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12 minutes ago, sligolad said:

I  think you have taken this thread to a whole new level Cornan and I have enjoyed reading about your journey despite the usual distractions on any thread here where doubters and naysayers feed on any heavily active topic.

Keep doing what you are doing and do not heed those trying to debunk or distract, all the attention shows you are making good waves here.?

I am waiting on a delivery of Kemet's myself for testing so we are taking heed. Tight or loose connections are only a minor distraction on what the thread is about so I take no notice of  these discussions...for the record I default to soldering.

 

I have been distracted working on SD playback through I2s and give up on USB for the moment, but saying that good DC power and cables are still a a key feature of current experiments.

Keep up the good work.?

 

Really great to hear those words from you sligolad! ? A person that I admire for trying new things with great success that I would never dream of doing. Hail you! ?

 

 

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33 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

I'm with Cornan on this. I'm certainly thankful for any tips of course (going to use clamping tweezers between Kemet and wire when soldering for example), but I also like the freewheeling  investigative DIY nature esp. as It's just a dc cable. if the caps get screwed up and don't work, well you might hear it or might not, and it all cost pennies. Sounds worse? Snip 'em off! No need for handwringing over this. 

 

More than agree. After I tried Cornan's Supra DAC idea, I am in peace with my music. It sounds just soothing. Kemets will arrive soon as well.

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4 hours ago, kumakuma said:

Using purple Loctite doesn't appear to present any issues according to the manufacturer's web page:

Who cares ?
Using ANY kind of sealant is NOT needed with good quality terminal blocks inside CONSUMER Audio equipment.

By good quality, I mean where the screws don't feel loose/wobble  in the terminal block when being screwed in. .

 

BTW, I was using Loctite when replacing the shafts in Bi-Motional selectors in Telephone Exchanges over 55 years ago !

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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4 hours ago, Ralf11 said:

the other issue is the use of Tweek, and Frank's belief that it is not adequate...

 

maybe he can detail his listening methodology as to whether a statistical number of trials, and whether he used blind listening

 

I agree Cornan.  For a consumer, why is less important that the result.  But one must ensure the result is actually SQ and not just an expectation that is confirmed for psychological reasons.

 

Do you need "a statistical number of trials" and "blind listening" to determine whether you've solved a rattle problem in your car?

 

Audiophiles are trapped in an endless pursuit of making their rigs "sound better" ... ummm, the trick is to to be able to hear whether the sound is right or not - is there a rattle, or isn't there? Almost nobody, yes, groks what this is about ... PeterSt is one of the rare individuals here who is attuned to this aspect - once you start thinking this way, it becomes trivially easy to pick when you are making real improvements ...

 

If one needs audiophile phrases, then think organic, natural, realistic, immersive, involving, holographic, makes you forget the system and only hear the music, etc, etc, etc ... these are just terms that describe competent playback.

 

Not having high integrity connections causes serious degradation of those qualities - if one can't hear the damage being done, then most tweaking of other types is probably not worth worrying about.

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