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ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!


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4 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

I'm with Cornan on this. I'm certainly thankful for any tips of course (going to use clamping tweezers between Kemet and wire when soldering for example), but I also like the freewheeling  investigative DIY nature esp. as It's just a dc cable. if the caps get screwed up and don't work, well you might hear it or might not, and it all cost pennies. Sounds worse? Snip 'em off! No need for handwringing over this. 

 

Yes, go for it! I like cheap, throw away gear - hack it to death, to find out what matters - if you kill it, so what?

 

The nightmare starts when you start fiddling with expensive components - so much value tied up in name, and bling - does one risk this or not? Unfortunately, the audio industry has evolved more into an art form, rather than engineering endeavour - will we emerge from this dark tunnel sooner, or later ... ?

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11 minutes ago, fas42 said:

 

If one needs audiophile phrases, then think organic, natural, realistic, immersive, involving, holographic, makes you forget the system and only hear the music, etc, etc, etc ... these are just terms that describe competent playback.

 

 

Sounds permeating. Please elaborate.

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17 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

We need to lock Sandy and Frank in the same room for a few weeks.

 

Throw GUTB in and you've got a hit reality show.

Sometimes it's like someone took a knife, baby
Edgy and dull and cut a six inch valley
Through the middle of my skull

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4 hours ago, Ralf11 said:

Exactly.  And the poster said that his terminals are coming loose, sandy.

 

Still trying to cover your backside after your continuing BAD advice ? :)

Do you really expect people to race out and buy some purple Loctite just to rectify a couple of non tight terminal blocks in their consumer gear ?

 Get real !

All you need to do is cut a short piece off the end of the existing lead, strip it back to expose shiny copper, (or gently scrape the strands clean) then tightly twist the strands of wire, reinsert the lead again , and tighten the damn screw !

If you will be often removing and reinserting the lead(s) with prototype equipment, then lightly tin the leads after twisting them tightly before reinsertion, in order to prevent a stray strand of wire from contacting something nearby, including the metal chassis !

(been there done that)

 

I  repeat:

The screws in normal consumer Audio equipment do NOT need to he locked using any substance , provided that the terminal blocks used are of a proper quality and the previous recommendations about tightly twisting the strands of wire, and the use of solder on the leads from the other forum are followed .

 

 How many items of DIY audio gear have either you or Kumakuma  ever constructed ?  5/8 of S.F.A. perhaps ?

 Unlike you I have been a DIY Electronics person  for > 65 years, and there are many other members, like one and a half, for example, who are also well experienced in areas like this too .

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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4 minutes ago, Nicholas_S said:

...in a room full of wire, screw connectors and loctite where they can start a new topic.

 

The inconvenient truth is that messy, 'technical' stuff is at the heart of the battle to get best sound - if you attempt to get around such by throwing money, names of fav companies, and gee whiz 'big' solutions - think MQA - at the 'problems', then you're likely to not really make valuable progress ...

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I did not give any bad advice, Sandman.

 

Let's see how many items of audio gear.... maybe a half dozen - I usually focus my efforts on constructing scientific gear.  Things that absolutely have GOT to work.

 

Purple Loctite will be fine and will solve his problem - of course, so would other things, like ripping it all apart again... however, I would not use banana plugs as your close friend half-pint suggested.

 

He can probably get away with soldering the tips tho I would not do it.

 

Airtight connections are wise - he can probably get away w/o that tho.

 

And finally... Ghent

 

!!

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3 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

Airtight connections are wise - he can probably get away w/o that tho.

 

 

Now, this is core to my POV - there is no such thing as "can probably get away w/o that" in my universe - if you want, say, Wow! presentation.

 

If you compromise in critical areas you get, well, compromised sound ... your call ...

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2 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

however, I would not use banana plugs as your close friend half-pint suggested.

 

 Firstly, one and a half is not my friend, and we have in the past often disagreed, however he is HIGHLY experienced in the area he is employed in.

 

A reminder :

 The continuing use of insults like many of yours recently, are in breach of forum rules and will not be tolerated indefinitely.

 

Have you bothered to contact Dennis yet ?

 

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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10 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

I usually focus my efforts on constructing scientific gear.  Things that absolutely have GOT to work.

 

 I bet they didn't even use consumer grade screw terminal blocks in sensitive  areas, or for connecting between various modules either !

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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18 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

Let's see how many items of audio gear.... maybe a half dozen - I usually focus my efforts on constructing scientific gear.  Things that absolutely have GOT to work.

 

In scientific work it is usually straightforward to measure whether something works well enough or not.

 

In audio furious debates occur as what "working well" actually means, how to measure it, whether it is measurable at all, etc, etc, etc ...

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40 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

So I recommend that no one tries to make this cable! It was tricky to say the least. Glad to report the Kemets never seemed to get hot, or even very warm from the soldering. Here's a couple of pics of the finished cable, and a making of. Wire is Neotech 12awg UPOCC teflon hook up. 

 

Sound is very very nice. Much more natural sounding. Will get better with a bit of burn in I'm sure. Glad I did it, but never again! (well, with solid 12awg at least). Seriously done with cable making etc for awhile. Way too much other stuff going on. Obsession officially over, but I hope the rest of you carry on! 

 

Note: there is one mistake in the first pic (wires crossed on the lt3045 input). Rectified of course. 

cable 4.jpg

cable 5.jpg

cable 6.jpg

 

Now how about putting it all together safely in something like a small diecast aluminium box, and move the Kemet capacitors at either end to INSIDE the devices at either end ?  It may even perform a little better, too. ;)

 

This presently looks like an accident awaiting to happen.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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10 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

Now how about putting it all together safely in something like a small diecast aluminium box, and move the Kemet capacitors at either end to INSIDE the devices at either end ?  It may even perform a little better, too. ;)

 

This presently looks like an accident awaiting to happen.

 

Yes, it's not much to look at, but it's actually pretty solid. I've got some heat shrink that I might clean it up a bit more with. The microRendu is in the back of the Naim DAC V1, and the LPS-1 on a shelf directly above it, right to the rear of the shelf. Unfortunately the mR juts out much further than the LPS. So it's actually all contained and nicely out of sight behind the cabinet, and the two Oyiades make a nice firm connection between the two.  

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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Nice thing is I use Bridge on the mR to stream via Roon to my office set up. So by doing this one "cable" I get the better sound in both places. And it's sounding superb. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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Oh, I did use electrical tape to cover any open joints before playing but I wanted to share a pic before that. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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4 minutes ago, charlesphoto said:

So it's actually all contained and nicely out of sight behind the cabinet, and the two Oyiades make a nice firm connection between the two.  

 

Any animals in the house ?

 It is also likely to work a little better again with the Kemets either end moved to inside the devices, especially the output end.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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2 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

So I recommend that no one tries to make this cable! It was tricky to say the least. Glad to report the Kemets never seemed to get hot, or even very warm from the soldering. Here's a couple of pics of the finished cable, and a making of. Wire is Neotech 12awg UPOCC teflon hook up. 

 

Sound is very very nice. Much more natural sounding. Will get better with a bit of burn in I'm sure. Glad I did it, but never again! (well, with solid 12awg at least). Seriously done with cable making etc for awhile. Way too much other stuff going on. Obsession officially over, but I hope the rest of you carry on! 

 

Note: there is one mistake in the first pic (wires crossed on the lt3045 input). Rectified of course. 

cable 4.jpg

cable 5.jpg

cable 6.jpg

 

Great to hear that you like it too Charles! ?

Yeah, it is not an easy job, but well worth the effort. It is much easier if you split & wrap the wire around the pins before soldering. I tried your way as well but found it very annoying since the crocodile clips cannot keep a firm grip.

 

 

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OK, I get using a Kemet at the DCout and, maybe, the DCin but aren't the two Kemets at either end of the wires connecting the 3045 to the Oyaide the same as two caps in parallel, i.e., equivalent electronically to one just with twice the capacitance?

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Today I changed out this...

 

6C9AACF6-46D5-4924-8664-CF740BFFD302.thumb.jpeg.64f600dc88e2f18426e13a2a247b9bb3.jpeg

 

...to this between LPS-1.2 and my feeder supply.

 

586AA858-0DF8-438B-9170-CA4F314266DF.thumb.jpeg.4009ac54e86c0c5f64e528d3cc92faa9.jpeg

 

Here is the steps towards it. Sorry for my visible hand on one of the pictures! ?

 

941D4039-B2AB-4876-9B8E-7E9FA11BF25A.thumb.jpeg.9c98918e0d248cf831ee8aaddc7cd321.jpeg61BD08EF-3707-4462-83B7-AB1DA8F5AE92.thumb.jpeg.9d19de8a22e846f731fa31745f76fc3f.jpegAE731437-C372-4954-A804-000845FACBD7.thumb.jpeg.7c8fd225f6cb92d50010dfe0165a5880.jpegAE62CAA1-D364-4C5F-8D71-DA1878DE69C0.thumb.jpeg.06da76df3e9a4787f4b6be4b3fca1858.jpegB3F101F4-E7C0-41C3-A8DD-59FEA011BA9C.thumb.jpeg.0c5f48e05f369e406d1b7a2148d717eb.jpeg5716BE99-4634-4D72-BB3D-BEB3A4C872A5.thumb.jpeg.2c6937c6d093b840151c36dd00649751.jpegC3C49E1B-C70C-4C38-A405-A845898B6BF3.thumb.jpeg.eb5d885cc57997a2e506f24e34a78ff4.jpegDE6B717C-27A2-409B-98C1-C92BE803AD7E.thumb.jpeg.c52d11aee5a3b4c6a7e62e5634705671.jpegAC47D292-DE70-43F4-8874-F5E423A8B471.thumb.jpeg.bc25941f2b6d5246813b8881ba3f259b.jpegAC813510-7774-4F52-88C7-B06C02AC2989.thumb.jpeg.3b0bce82084b1e953d98eca86d5d0f9d.jpeg5FC43944-1F5E-4ED1-A53C-00E744D5ECD8.thumb.jpeg.d5f95bdaee0d532dbf9a39ef3ce11a63.jpegAA4D55AA-8EE0-43DE-B44B-A9EBF28E8D73.thumb.jpeg.29c93d84bdfb184dccadcfa87144738b.jpeg45AA9DCB-BA28-435D-97DA-AD66CBC0F4FB.thumb.jpeg.d76a6d476359658a231ad8c5166976bf.jpegA9BE4F20-8035-4435-94C7-A1153C0EB3DC.thumb.jpeg.f511eaf3476084e26c77eba10d6859e1.jpeg

 

So I sat down and had a listen to Marcus Marr & Chet Faker’s album Work. Instantly there was an improved resolution. Very dry natural bass & drums, better separation, dynamic voices improved, mids improved in details, more than great room feeling etc. I can go on an on about things that improved here. I don’t want to bore you’all. Simply put! I’m over the moon! ??

 

 

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1 hour ago, BigGuy said:

OK, I get using a Kemet at the DCout and, maybe, the DCin but aren't the two Kemets at either end of the wires connecting the 3045 to the Oyaide the same as two caps in parallel, i.e., equivalent electronically to one just with twice the capacitance?

 

I does’nt work like that with capacitors in series. The total circuit capacitance of any number of capacitors connected together in series will always be less than the value of the smallest capacitor in the series. Using for example three capacitors is series will effectively isolate the capacitor in the middle. ?

 

 

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