ISO Regen performance Improvement Cheap!

[rah50]

My 10 Kemets arrived yesterday from Digi-Key. Now, were should I put them or not put them?

 

1.       HDPlex > DIY Supra Cat8 > 2 LT3045’s > mircoRendu >

2.       LPS1 > DIY Supra Cat8 > 1 LT3045 > ISO Regen >

3.       LPS1.2 > DIY Supra Cat8 > ultraDigital.

 

Thoughts and suggestions please!

[mansr]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

So back to square one? Kemet’s cannot possibly improve because Brooklyn DAC is not properly constructed in your opinion? So LS-HPULN, BluWave USB to Spdif board & LPS-1.2 are not properly done either when the Kemet’s do imorove there as well? And the router? And Aqvox switch? And ISO Regen? And Aries Mini? They all improved with this tweak! 

You're the one saying adding an external capacitor improves the sound. Taking that at face value, the logical conclusion is that all those devices have inadequate internal power regulation.

[Cornan]

41 minutes ago, rah50 said:

My 10 Kemets arrived yesterday from Digi-Key. Now, were should I put them or not put them?

 

1.       HDPlex > DIY Supra Cat8 > 2 LT3045’s > mircoRendu >

2.       LPS1 > DIY Supra Cat8 > 1 LT3045 > ISO Regen >

3.       LPS1.2 > DIY Supra Cat8 > ultraDigital.

 

Thoughts and suggestions please!

 

Start by adding two on each side of your three Supra Cat 8 DC cables. You can also add one at each input and output of your LT3045 if you want. Use your own ears to guide you. As long as every step improves SQ your fine! ?

[Cornan]

50 minutes ago, totoxio said:

Last night, I put a coaxial to optical converter between the Singxer F1 and my Chord Mojo. Of course, RFI is gone. It sounds smooth and detailed. Mojo does reclocking of spdif input so jitter shouldn't be a problem. My question is, should all this cable rolling make any difference for those who use optical input?

 

I would surely think that these cables will make a difference! Even  optical devices are very sensitive to power quality IME, especially if close to audio gears. In the end you can just give it a try and see if that holds true in your specific setup! ?

[Cornan]

31 minutes ago, mansr said:

You're the one saying adding an external capacitor improves the sound. Taking that at face value, the logical conclusion is that all those devices have inadequate internal power regulation.

 

Logics does’nt always make sense! Just try it and let me know if I was wrong that it improved SQ! ?

[mansr]

3 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Logics does’nt always make sense!

Actually, it does. It's the definition.

[totoxio]

39 minutes ago, mansr said:

Actually, it does. It's the definition.

 

Unless you look at quantum mechanics. ?

[Ralf11]

1 hour ago, mansr said:

Actually, it does. It's the definition.

 

Dude!  Your bringing reality in here is harshing the mellow!

[Abtr]

2 hours ago, mansr said:

You're the one saying adding an external capacitor improves the sound. Taking that at face value, the logical conclusion is that all those devices have inadequate internal power regulation.

According to @marce the quality of the main supply is as critical (for SQ) as is local decoupling and DC buffering close to each IC. The whole power delivery system has to be addressed. That would imply that if the main supply is inadequate then no amount of local DC buffering could remedy that. Now since polymer aluminum capacitors (such as Kemet A750) have very low ESR, low ESL and large capacitance, they have excellent response to transient changes in the load. So adding one directly at the audio device's DC input (close to the circuitry) makes sense and may well improve practically any (external) DC power supply and may therefore improve the *overall* performance of an audio device.. 

[rah50]

FYI, for those not wanting to DIY cables, and those still believing in shielding, Ghent just announced: 

DC-GAC4 Gotham GAC-4/1 11301 UltraPro Star Quad DC(JSSG360) Cable

 

 

[mansr]

1 hour ago, Abtr said:

According to @marce the quality of the main supply is as critical (for SQ) as is local decoupling and DC buffering close to each IC. The whole power delivery system has to be addressed. That would imply that if the main supply is inadequate then no amount of local DC buffering could remedy that. Now since polymer aluminum capacitors (such as Kemet A750) have very low ESR, low ESL and large capacitance, they have excellent response to transient changes in the load. So adding one directly at the audio device's DC input (close to the circuitry) makes sense and may well improve practically any (external) DC power supply and may therefore improve the *overall* performance of an audio device.. 

The further you get from the ICs, the less variable the current should be. In a typical design, there will be multiple regulators and a dozen or so capacitors between the 12V input and the critical consumers of power. The external supply needs to provide the required current without too much ripple. A marginal power supply can sometimes be made to work with additional capacitors. I guess the LPS-1.2 is marginal then.

[bit01]

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:03 AM, AnotherSpin said:

As I am quite happy with Supra DAC double cable connection between PSU and regen I did it permanent. Very short, about 20 cm, soldered to Mean Well PSU directly. Clear improvement of the sound after connection shortened and soldered directly instead of attached to the 1cm piece of previous cable from MW.

 

 

Hi,

I find that the  screw terminals loosen with time. I do have to re-tighten them from time to time and would not think of shrink wrap over them. Do you have the same experience, if so how do you get around it, holes in shrink, bonded screw to housing, solder?

b.

[fas42]

5 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Logics does’nt always make sense! Just try it and let me know if I was wrong that it improved SQ! ?

 

There always a logical reason for why the sound changes - but it may be very hard to pin down. As a general rule all audio systems are under-engineered - they work well enough to give good readings for all the typical tests, but our ears give the game away; they still add far too many audible anomalies. What I call a competent system is merely one that is working properly - and that's within the reach of virtually all half decent rigs.

 

Which is why all setups respond to tweaking - you're playing with the levels, and type of audible distortion, and everything one does alters this part of the mix. If the components were made properly in the first place, then none of this fiddling would be necessary, or relevant.

 

[Ralf11]

tighten them and then apply a small drop of Loctite Green to the end (it is a low strength thread locker for fasteners that are already assembled) or use their Purple (very low strength) before assembly

 

the usual online suspects have this if you want to avoid driving around to auto parts places

 

[MikeyFresh]

8 hours ago, Speedskater said:

My M.O is about good engineering principles and practices.

 

No, you incessantly troll by making ridiculous over generalizations intended as bait, and the post I quoted is just another example:

 

"When we have signals above the 50 to 100MHz range, then we can start a serious discussion about cable dielectrics."

 

In other words, no serious discussion was actually taking place, and it can only begin to do so after we are talking about signals in the 50-100MHz range? False, but I won't take your troll bait. 

 

Again I urge you to start the "Serious discussion on cable dielectric materials only affecting signals above 50MHz" thread.

[fas42]

2 hours ago, bit01 said:

Hi,

I find that the  screw terminals loosen with time. I do have to re-tighten them from time to time and would not think of shrink wrap over them. Do you have the same experience, if so how do you get around it, holes in shrink, bonded screw to housing, solder?

b.

 

Any connection that relies on tightness of screws to maintain electrical integrity is a major weakness, if you're after optimum audio quality. The metal to metal contact has to be made truly gas tight, either by soldering or using silver type greases - nominal gas tightness is not good enough!

 

Every system I have ever been involved with has always benefited from taking this seriously ...

[BigGuy]

3 hours ago, rah50 said:

FYI, for those not wanting to DIY cables, and those still believing in shielding, Ghent just announced: 

DC-GAC4 Gotham GAC-4/1 11301 UltraPro Star Quad DC(JSSG360) Cable

 

 

FWIW, Gotham Audio has also added a new horse to the race by announcing the GPC 3x1.5mmsq'd Power Cable (85015) which may be of interest to group.

[SuperRoo]

55 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

tighten them and then apply a small drop of Loctite Green to the end (it is a low strength thread locker for fasteners that are already assembled) or use their Purple (very low strength) before assembly

 

the usual online suspects have this if you want to avoid driving around to auto parts places

 

I use loctite purple a lot.  Most folks don't know it even exists.

[Ralf11]

45 minutes ago, fas42 said:

 

Any connection that relies on tightness of screws to maintain electrical integrity is a major weakness, if you're after optimum audio quality. The metal to metal contact has to be made truly gas tight, either by soldering or using silver type greases - nominal gas tightness is not good enough!

 

...

 

 

No, just use a little drop of Tweek on the conducting surfaces.  It is actually a differently named product put in small bottles - George knows that name but I've forgotten it.

 

NO NEED to solder everything in sight.

[SuperRoo]

Something like this but silver based?

https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-thomas-betts-kopr-shield-compound-8-oz.html

[fas42]

11 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

 

 

No, just use a little drop of Tweek on the conducting surfaces.  It is actually a differently named product put in small bottles - George knows that name but I've forgotten it.

 

NO NEED to solder everything in sight.

 

Stabilant 22. Been there, done that ...

 

Unfortunately, it's just not good enough - not for best audio, anyway. I spent months trying to get this type of method to do the job, and it always failed - if one is determined to leave an unresolved weakness in a setup, well, there is usually only one outcome ...

[fas42]

7 minutes ago, SuperRu said:

Something like this but silver based?

https://www.specialized.net/cp8-tb-thomas-betts-kopr-shield-compound-8-oz.html

 

That in fact may do the job - first time I've heard of it. Buy and try, would be my suggestion ...

[SuperRoo]

Just now, fas42 said:

 

That in fact may do the job - first time I've heard of it. Buy and try, would be my suggestion ...

I have it in the shop and have used it a lot. It works great for custom auto stuff. 

[sandyk]

2 hours ago, Ralf11 said:

tighten them and then apply a small drop of Loctite Green to the end (it is a low strength thread locker for fasteners that are already assembled) or use their Purple (very low strength) before assembly

 

the usual online suspects have this if you want to avoid driving around to auto parts places

 

That's VERY bad advice !

The screws don't come loose.

It's more of a compressing /shrinkage problem over time, especially if you had first soldered the strands of wire to avoid a longer term corrosion problem. You could end up with a poor connection and need to replace the terminal block !

[Ralf11]

so what is bad about it???

 

and the "screws don't come loose" except he said they DID