The Paul Hynes SR4 PSU

[dctom]

I have just recieved my SR4 19v and was considering making up my own dc cable but am unsure of the XLR pin configuration - anyone know this?

Has anyone compared the PH copper dc  to  to the silver dc cable?

[octaviars]

57 minutes ago, dctom said:

I have just recieved my SR4 19v and was considering making up my own dc cable but am unsure of the XLR pin configuration - anyone know this?

 

Pins 1 and 2 are 0V and pin3 and 4 are +V so it is easy to use for example a starquad cable like Canare 4S6 and connect one wire to each pole.

[dctom]

3 hours ago, octaviars said:

 

Pins 1 and 2 are 0V and pin3 and 4 are +V so it is easy to use for example a starquad cable like Canare 4S6 and connect one wire to each pole.

Thats great, thank you for the info.

[str-1]

Can I ask those of you who have tried fuse upgrades with the 5V-12V SR4 what amp-rating(s) you have have tried?  I should say I am in the UK, which seems to make a difference to the Farad Super3 requirement (1A for 110-120Vac and 0.5A for 220-240Vac) but I have read that Paul Hynes said 1A was fine for the SR4 for both voltages.  

 

I would like to try some of these fuses for myself and currently have a 1A Furutech Rhodium fuse running-in with the SR4 - I’ll give it another week and will report my impressions.  Some of the other obvious options (e.g. SR, Beeswax etc) are very expensive and I don’t want to buy any more than I need to just to experiment with so it would be good to get some feel for what safe/sensible leeway there might be either side of the stated fuse requirement (accepting the possibility of voided warranty with some devices).  For example, I asked Paul if 0.8A would be fine with my SR4, and he said it would be.  I also asked Mattijs about his 15V Farad Super3 and was told that while he thought 1A would be ok it would be at my risk (so clearly a warranty consideration).

 

While I think of it in case I ever want to buy a 9V-19V SR4, is that supply also rated for a 1A fuse?

 

 

[highstream]

In the States, I’ve been using a 1A ultimate beeswax at 5V, and even 12V mistakenly for a bit, with great results and no problems with an SR4. What’s not commonly discussed or known is that developers almost invariably specify a fuse size that is well beyond what is actually needed. They do this to take into account what they can’t control: the wide variety of electrical and audio systems being used, and the wide variety of user behavior. Plus, an electrical surge is going to quickly take out most any fuse within reason. If they didn’t oversize, they’d be getting lots of complaints and returns. So I expect you'd be perfectly safe with Paul’s recommendation. I’ve long used 3.15A fuses in Quad actives that call for 2A, and at least for awhile SR fuse users were unofficially told to go high because their fuses were blowing in some systems at the rated value.

[str-1]

3 hours ago, highstream said:

In the States, I’ve been using a 1A ultimate beeswax at 5V, and even 12V mistakenly for a bit, with great results and no problems with an SR4. 

Thanks.  I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time.  I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not.  I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes.  I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer.

[auricgoldfinger]

18 minutes ago, str-1 said:

Thanks.  I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time.  I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not.  I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes.  I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer.

 

I have used Beeswax fuses in linear power supplies and don't consider them to be overly warm.  Mostly, I find them smoother and more liquid sounding than SR blue fuses, which have more energy and greater transparency in comparison.  I mostly prefer the Beeswax fuses in those power supplies, but my choice also depends on the component being powered.

 

You might consider trying a blue fuse with your SR4.  If you like it, then don't worry about the Beewax.  SR offers a 30-day money back guarantee that removes all of the financial risk except for shipping.  I would guess they have a dealer somewhere in the UK.  The rule of thumb for the blue fuses is to order 1.35-1.6x the rated amount for your device.  I do the same with Beeswax fuses in order to avoid a blown fuse.  I haven't had any issues using the higher rated fuses.

[highstream]

58 minutes ago, str-1 said:

Thanks.  I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time.  I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not.  I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes.  I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer.

 

I agree with audicgf's appraisal of the beeswax -- modestly warm, liquid and smooth -- and you could contact Jerry at Audio Magic directly about buying one; he uses PP.  Or Kitsune Hi Fi near Seattle, which gives $20 off.  However the idea of trying a SR Blue on 30-day is not a bad one, if available. In my system, pre-SR4, I found the Blue has great PRAT, but once I got past that found that its tonal coolness ("neutrality") left me wanting to thrown my kit out the window. I like warm, not syrupy but the kind that draws me in emotionally so that I'm listening to the music, not the system.

[str-1]

2 hours ago, auricgoldfinger said:

You might consider trying a blue fuse with your SR4.  If you like it, then don't worry about the Beewax.  SR offers a 30-day money back guarantee that removes all of the financial risk except for shipping.  I would guess they have a dealer somewhere in the UK.

 

1 hour ago, highstream said:

However the idea of trying a SR Blue on 30-day is not a bad one, if available. In my system, pre-SR4, I found the Blue has great PRAT, but once I got past that found that its tonal coolness ("neutrality") left me wanting to thrown my kit out the window. I like warm, not syrupy but the kind that draws me in emotionally so that I'm listening to the music, not the system.

Thanks.  The SR fuses are readily available in the UK with a generous return period so it sounds like I should give those a try before beeswax.  But I have emailed Jerry at Audio Magic to ask about warranty terms as I cannot find these mentioned on their website.   

 

Before going for either SR or Beeswax I’ll will of course properly evaluate the Furutech with both the SR4 and my Farad Super3, and I’ll post something about that in the next week or so.

[marce]

17 hours ago, str-1 said:

Thanks.  I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time.  I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not.  I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes.  I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer.

Probably because having a fuse with a flammable material inside it breaks every electrical regulation... A device that when it works gets hot... One reason fuses are often filled with sand is to control the flashover...

[Darryl R]

On 3/28/2019 at 11:35 AM, austinpop said:

You know you're an audiophile when...

 

...you become a Brexit expert to predict GBP-USD fluctuations to pick the perfect day to pay for your next SR4/SR7.

 

 

Getting to that point, but there's a slight uptick:

 

[lmitche]

1 hour ago, Darryl R said:

 

Getting to that point, but there's a slight uptick:

 

The long term mean reversion GBP/USD rate is 1.67 , so 1.31 is historically low. 1.31 was the GBP/USD rate level in June of 2016 after the results of the Brexit referendum.

 

It's a good time to buy goods from the UK with US dollars, but that could change by the morning.

[Darryl R]

6 minutes ago, lmitche said:

The long term mean reversion GBP/USD rate is 1.67 , so 1.31 is historically low. 1.31 was at the same rate level in June of 2016 after the results of the Brexit referendum.

 

Thanks.  Forgot to put the  on my post, and didn't convey the fun of it.  I was excited Paul Hynes Designs is going to offer a 4-rail SR7.

[highstream]

Got my ATC active speakers when the GBP was1.21 three years ago. Btw, while the price for Paul's silver power cord is good, I've found the Zenwave Audio one (custom but common build) has a lot better and warmer tonal balance without losing clarity. I think he uses one of the better Furutech copper wires (NRG?). The only downside for me was he doesn't install micro-USB connecters, so I've had to go with an adapter, which has to be reminded of its place every once in awhile.

[highstream]

With the SR4 placed on its feet, anyone have an idea which way current runs through the fuse, top down or bottom up? 

 

[marce]

If its the mains fuse, then both ways... Its AC.

[highstream]

SR says their Orange fuse is directional in the sense of the letters. For convenience, not having to move things around two or three times, I wanted to start there. The sonic difference is obvious.

[Cormorant]

On 2/7/2020 at 8:11 PM, highstream said:

With the SR4 placed on its feet, anyone have an idea which way current runs through the fuse, top down or bottom up? 

 

 

The current runs from the top of the SR4 fuse holder to the bottom.  So you want the direction of the letters on the Orange fuse to go from the top of unit to the bottom.

 

 

[highstream]

Thanks. Using an ohm meter, with leads on the live prong and checking each side of the fuse clip, that’s what I found too. However, with the SR inserted that way, the music sounded more image precise but screechy. The other way was more open and relaxed. That suggests the label was misapplied, which if so was the second like that in this batch of three. The only caveat to that conclusion is the assumption, based on experience with directional fuses, that the sound difference can be heard when new, and doesn’t require each direction being burned in.

[marce]

28 minutes ago, Cormorant said:

 

The current runs from the top of the SR4 fuse holder to the bottom.  So you want the direction of the letters on the Orange fuse to go from the top of unit to the bottom.

 

 

 

2 hours ago, highstream said:

SR says their Orange fuse is directional in the sense of the letters. For convenience, not having to move things around two or three times, I wanted to start there. The sonic difference is obvious.

You can't have a directional mains fuse, its an AC signal so changes direction 50/60 times a second!!!

[Cormorant]

4 minutes ago, highstream said:

However, with the SR inserted that way, the music sounded more image precise but screechy. The other way was more open and relaxed.

 

I have four Orange fuses in my system, all placed with the lettering in the direction of the current.  Based on your comment, I will try the other direction now also.  Thanks.

 

I don't currently have Orange fuses on my two SR4s -- I am using Hifi Turning Supreme Cu fuses there.  I figured they are warmer sounding ,what with the copper and all.  The SR4s in my system lean a bit to the neutral/cool side, so warm power cords and fuses help to balance that out.  But I haven't tried an Orange fuse on an SR4 yet, and do plan to do that.  I have one in my preamp that I can try in the SR4.

[Cormorant]

9 minutes ago, marce said:

 

You can't have a directional mains fuse, its an AC signal so changes direction 50/60 times a second!!!

 

Good point.  But based on a lot of people's observations, something in the AC field is directional.  I haven't actually tried reversing fuses yet myself to see if I can hear a difference.

[highstream]

Yes, there is an apparent contradiction between AC current theory and aftermarket fuse users’ listening observations, which I know from my own experience are valid. At a PS Audio forum thread I initiated over the weekend, Directstream designer Ted Smith weighs in how this could be the case, namely gears’ internal designs. But that leaves unanswered the question why, or on what basis, SR is claiming directionality across gear designs. Here’s the thread: https://forum.psaudio.com/t/current-flow-fuse-direction/15203/32

[The Computer Audiophile]

Thread crapping removed.

[marce]

1 hour ago, highstream said:

Yes, there is an apparent contradiction between AC current theory and aftermarket fuse users’ listening observations, which I know from my own experience are valid. At a PS Audio forum thread I initiated over the weekend, Directstream designer Ted Smith weighs in how this could be the case, namely gears’ internal designs. But that leaves unanswered the question why, or on what basis, SR is claiming directionality across gear designs. Here’s the thread: https://forum.psaudio.com/t/current-flow-fuse-direction/15203/32

The chances are that any supplies you have will ALL employ full wave rectification, so the current through the fuse will be as shown for the resistor R3. I can't imagine anyone using half wave rectification these days or for the last million years.😄