auricgoldfinger Posted August 9, 2020 Share Posted August 9, 2020 1 minute ago, sahmen said: I am a bit confused about the language about ordering "the next size up," since the word "size" seems to refer to going from a small size fuse (5 X 20mm) to a large size one (6.3 X 32), which does not sound right. I am assuming then that you guys are speaking of going from say 1A to 1.25A in amperage ratings, in which case size refers to "amperage rating"... Correct? You are correct. We are referring to the amperage rating. Sorry for not being more clear. 2 minutes ago, sahmen said: So the point of going higher up in amperage ratings was to minimize the risk of blowing the fuse rather than improving its SQ performance? Okay got it, Correct, we're trying to minimize the risk of blowing a fuse. The higher amperage rating has no effect on SQ. (After I blew the second blue fuse, I asked Synergistic Research about getting a free replacement. They happily complied with my request.) sahmen 1 Link to comment
Popular Post internethandle Posted August 9, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted August 9, 2020 15 hours ago, sahmen said: Has anyone tried replacing the stock fuse on the SR4T with a Synergistic Research Orange fuse, or any other kind of audiophile aftermarket fuse? If so could you kindly report on what kind of difference it made. My SR4T is powering my Etherregen, and I just got an SR Orange fuse from the ongoing promo sale which I could try on the SR4T, if the change would be worthwhile. Any helpful thoughts that are based on first-hand experiences about the performance of audiophile fuses on the SR4T would be welcome. By the way Stephen from Paul Hynes LTD mentioned that the appropriate specs for the stock fuse on the SR4T are 5 X 20mm, Slow blow 1A so I plan to replace it with an SR Orange with the same specs. There are, however, conflicting views on the internet as to whether replacing the stock with an audiophile fuse with the same specs might be a good idea. Some say the replacement fuse must have a higher amperage rating for best SQ results. Others (particularly the manufacturers) tend to discourage that idea of using a higher amperage fuse, and sometimes quite vehemently too, so what gives? Hi sahmen, FWIW, I've been using my SR Orange fuse at the stock rating (so "small"/5 x 20mm 1A Slow Blow) in my SR4T for going on 4 months now of near continuous, 24/7 usage (I don't tend to turn my gear off) with no issues. While it's true that audiophile fuses have been known to blow and people often times order the next rating "up," I personally haven't experienced a blow with SR, HiFi-Tuning, or AMR fuses at stock ratings, and I've replaced quite a few fuses in a variety of gear. From anecdotes on the internet, it seems that these fuses tend to blow more often in preamps and amps. Not to be taken as a blanket statement by any means, though. sahmen and kennyb123 2 Link to comment
Popular Post TheAttorney Posted August 9, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted August 9, 2020 Of around 10 various audiophile fuses I've owned, one has blown as follows after being in use for a few months... My SR Blue failed in my PH SR7 when driving low power digital-only components (mR, IR and Chord m-scaler). All components had been on for several hours when the fuse blew and, in general, the SR7 is left powered 24/7. The Blue fuse was same rating as stock (3.15A slow blow). So, a fuse that should be able to handle around 700w continuous power failed with a load I estimate to be under 40w. The UK dealer did accept my explanation and gave a free replacement - this time I up-rated to 4A. This worked fine up to the point I upgraded it to SR Orange, which I further up-rated to 5A. I had no qualms in that extra up-rating because... The older bespoke SR7's do not have protection circuitry, because at the time Paul found that all protection circuits degraded SQ. And one of the most likely accidents is to short the output plug when messing about with cables or adjusting/measuring voltage output. When this happens, the SR7 will dutifully try to output infinite current into the zero load and within a tiny fraction of a second the regular will blow - well before the fuse has even realised there's a problem. So in such designs, the slow blow fuse is useless (although possibly of some value in other types of equipment/supply error situations). This probably does not apply to the newer T models with built in protection circuits. BTW, the SR Orange definitely sounds better than the Blue, even though I was already impressed with the Blue. sahmen and auricgoldfinger 2 Link to comment
mitch751 Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 can I use SR4 9v to charge ultraRendu, the manual said 6-9v, but 9v is not recommended .. thanks B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u Link to comment
Superdad Posted February 5, 2021 Share Posted February 5, 2021 5 minutes ago, mitch751 said: can I use SR4 9v to charge ultraRendu, the manual said 6-9v, but 9v is not recommended .. thanks The ultraRendu will run fine from 9V. It will just get a little hotter than at 7V, but nothing to worry about. As long as your DAC is not drawing a full 500mA of 5VBUS current from the ultraRendu's USB output you might not even notice. [Because if for example the full USB2.0 spec limit of 500mA was drawn, the math (9V>5V drop is 4V, times 0.5A) shows an extra 2 watts of heat would be dissipated inside the case--in addition to whatever all the other linear regs of the ultraRendu will be dissipating.] UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
mitch751 Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 Thank you so much for the reply. B&W 800 Diamond D2, Goldmund Eidos Reference CD, Goldmund Telos 600, Goldmund Mimesis 32, Cello Audio Palette MIV.[br]MacBook Pro, LIO, Mytek 192, HD800, Luxman SQ-38U, Luxman MQ-88u Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Hi, Great to see some familiar names in this forum @austinpop@str-1@TheAttorney I'm thinking of buying a PH PSU. I currently own a couple of Sbooster Mkii powering my Chord Hugo 2 in desktop mode and my Mscaler. I'm thinking that an SR4T or SR5T or an SR7 might provide a good jump in sound quality but am really struggling to get any idea from the internet. Usually I can find good reports and comparisons but I'm at a loss: Is the SR4T any improvement in the SR4? Is the SR5 or SR5T a big improvement in the SR4 or SR4T? I saw the audio bacon review but a few of you guys seem to have owned a few of these PSUs. Any advice for one confused potential purchaser? Happy for a PM if you'd prefer. Thanks Ade Link to comment
Popular Post austinpop Posted March 18, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 18, 2021 1 hour ago, Apmusson said: Hi, Great to see some familiar names in this forum @austinpop@str-1@TheAttorney I'm thinking of buying a PH PSU. I currently own a couple of Sbooster Mkii powering my Chord Hugo 2 in desktop mode and my Mscaler. I'm thinking that an SR4T or SR5T or an SR7 might provide a good jump in sound quality but am really struggling to get any idea from the internet. Usually I can find good reports and comparisons but I'm at a loss: Is the SR4T any improvement in the SR4? Is the SR5 or SR5T a big improvement in the SR4 or SR4T? I saw the audio bacon review but a few of you guys seem to have owned a few of these PSUs. Any advice for one confused potential purchaser? Happy for a PM if you'd prefer. Thanks Ade Hi Ade, I have written so many posts about PSUs and their comparisons, that I would have to do the same search I am recommending you do in this forum. Here is an example: https://audiophilestyle.com/search/?&q=hynes&type=forums_topic&author=austinpop&search_and_or=and&sortby=newest In general: the primary feature that improves/increases going from SR4/SR5/SR7 is current capacity. Additionally, the SQ of Paul's PSUs increase, going up from SR4 to SR5 to SR7. I have not heard the SR5 line at all. Turbo reportedly sounds better. I have not owned a Turbo, but I fully expect this to be the case The SR7 DR (dual regulated) is Paul's custom line, and not easily available Which is right for you is dependent on what you plan to use it for, and your budget. Apmusson and R1200CL 2 My Audio Setup Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Thanks Rajiv, Ill look through your posts. I got frustrated as the PH PSU reviews have been low volume (like the units themselves). I know owners are enthusiastic but that is the norm in HIFI land... Thanks for your response. It's appreciated. Ade Link to comment
Popular Post R1200CL Posted March 18, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 18, 2021 @Apmusson I’m using the SR4T powering my opticalRendu. It’s a very good power supply. A safe choice. Good luck with your purchase. Apmusson and soares 1 1 Link to comment
Popular Post Oepsie Posted March 18, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 18, 2021 I tried several PSUs before settleling on the SR4T for my SOtM streamer. Even with this rather low-cost streamer (the basic sms-200), the improvement is noticable in aspects of naturalness, realism and PRAT. Some PSUs give a softer presentation, some more harsh (of the ones I tried). The PH is spot on in my opinion. Tried in my friends setup as well and the impact and sense of realism was the same, even on an external clock for his usb-s/pdif converter. Apmusson and R1200CL 2 Link to comment
Pokey77 Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 I'm using an SR4T with my ER and it brought a very nice improvement in overall sound quality. I've read a few posts that say the Farad PS is better but I have no idea as I've only heard the SR4T. Good luck in your search. Apmusson 1 Digital: 1Gbs Fiber to house, then to endpoint > looks like copper from endpoint to router (all stock from ATT) > Router to "A" side is Monoprice Cat 5e Monoprice > ER "B" side 3' Supra 8+ to wall (ER has SR4T LPS) > 15-20' Cat 5e run to audio room > 3' Supra 8+ to Aurender N10. System: TAD Evolution system: M2500 amp, C2000 pre/DAC, E-1 speakers. Aurender N10, ER, SR4T LPS. Link to comment
Popular Post Downtheline Posted March 19, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 19, 2021 I replaced a p8 keces with a PH SR7t to power my diy xeon 4210 server/streamer. Big upgrade. No idea if better that non-turbo. P8 was better than p3 on the prior fanless nuc. Apmusson, Exocer and NanoSword 3 Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Update: I ended up ordering an SR4T in a fixed 5V version (for an increased amp rating at 4amps constant) together with a copper DC cable (6amp rating). I'm scheduled for delivery at the start of May. I've also ordered a Synergistic Research Orange 1amp Slow Blow fuse. I'm coming from an Sbooster MKii Ultra setup which delivers 0.8amps (constant) so we'll see what the additional 'ampage' and Paul Hynes design does for my setup. Thanks for all your comments above btw. Ade NanoSword 1 Link to comment
R1200CL Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 @Apmusson You may like to test out this cable. I was feeling a slightly better result with this one. It may be imagination 😀 https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-gac4.html Apmusson 1 Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 22 hours ago, R1200CL said: @Apmusson You may like to test out this cable. I was feeling a slightly better result with this one. It may be imagination 😀 https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-gac4.html I've ordered one - custom micro USB terminated. 😁 Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 🥴 Count me amazed. I've just added a SR Orange mains (230v 13a) Fuse to my Stax Energiser. How can a fuse change the sound so much? I'm getting immediate improved separation (amongst other audible changes - speed/tightness of bass) - it's obvious and noticeable and doesn't sound artificial. The reason I'm posting here is that I'm also planning to get one for my SR4T when it arrives.... Was there any consensus on using this fuse? NanoSword 1 Link to comment
R1200CL Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 On 3/24/2021 at 4:38 PM, Apmusson said: The reason I'm posting here is that I'm also planning to get one for my SR4T Have you got any comments from Paul Hynes about changing fuse on the SR4T ? (If ever discussed) Link to comment
Apmusson Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 21 minutes ago, R1200CL said: Have you got any comments from Paul Hynes about changing fuse on the SR4T ? (If ever discussed) No. Ive never spoken to him. I wouldn't expect him to endorse or recommend anything which could cause a fault. I'vechanged plenty of fuses and the fuse holder is placed to be easily accessible (see earlier posts from others - it just pops out of the IEC socket) without opening up the main chassis and I will use a like for like equivalent (1 amp slow blow rating). I'm not concerned, if I don't like it I'll swap it back. Link to comment
Popular Post Apmusson Posted May 4, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 4, 2021 I received my SR4T 5v fixed this morning. It is now installed in my system and settling in. I have a Ghent DC to microusb cable as well as one from Paul Hynes Design DC6 gauge. First impressions are good as an upgrade to an Sbooster MKII with Ultra MKII. Out of the two cables I prefer the Ghent (thanks for the recommendation @R1200CL). Ade NanoSword and R1200CL 2 Link to comment
NanoSword Posted June 19, 2021 Share Posted June 19, 2021 Hi, How I can change the voltage from 115 to 230 for SR4T Link to comment
hpfish Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 For those who installed the Orange fuse in your SR4T, what direction have you used, the SR or RS direction flowing from top to bottom of the unit? Link to comment
bodiebill Posted March 2, 2022 Share Posted March 2, 2022 There was a strong chemical smell... When I localized it, it appeared to be my Paul Hynes SR4T 5-12V that was powering a Pi2AES with 5VDC. The SR4T was much too hot to touch and remained so for 5 minutes after being disconnected. Luckily the Pi2AES is still working. I opened up the SR4T and this is what I found. Beyond repair? And what could be the cause? Still that smell, with windows wide open... audio system Link to comment
MarcelNL Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 That looks as if the transformer had a melt down...you should troubleshoot the circuitry it feeds as it looks like too much current was drawn for quite a period. I vote for a loose connection, or a component gave up..effectively creating a short circuit, which is where fuses come into play. Having a circuit diagram makes troubleshooting easier. ISP, glass to Fritz!box 5530, another Fritz!box 5530 for audio only in bridged mode on LPS, cat8.1, Zyxel switch on LPS, Finisar <1475BTL>Solarflare X2522-25G, external wifi AP, AMD 9 16 core, passive cooling ,Aorus Master x570, LPSU with Taiko ATX, 8Gb Apacer RAM, femto SSD on LPS, Pink Faun I2S ultra OCXO on akiko LPS, home grown RJ45 I2S cable, Metrum Adagio DAC3, RCA 70-A and Miyaima Zero for mono, G2 PL519 tube amps. Link to comment
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