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str-1

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About str-1

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  1. @PeterStHi Peter. In rearranging my music system I managed to disconnect some of the connections on my Lush^2. I’ve reconnected in the way I think they were for the default A: B-W-Y-R, B: B-W-R. Can you tell me if I’ve put things back correctly. Thanks.
  2. I had for some time been wanting to get the best 2-rail supply I could and finally decided to go for it, unfortunately too late to get a custom-build double-regulated SR7. It was a toss-up between an SR7 and a DC3, and I went for the SR7 because I already own an SR4-12 and am very pleased with it. I also have a 15V Farad Super3 and two Pilot Pro 2 battery packs. I expect the SR7 to be another step up from all of those.
  3. Finally went for a 2-rail standard-build SR7. Ordered and paid for on 22nd October. PHD Ltd have told me that the transformer has been ordered and they will try to get the supply to me before Christmas.
  4. I finalised and paid for my order for a 2-rail (15V & 12V) standard-build SR7 on 22nd October. I have been told that the transformer has already been ordered and that PHD Ltd will try to get the supply to me before Christmas.
  5. You can see what must be the 1m Chord umbilicals at about 6.50 on this Youtube video taken at last weekend’s UK Hifi Live Show
  6. Has anyone any experience of comparing the umbilicals made by Chord Company with the cables supplied with the Statement?
  7. Thanks for the update. I’m pleased for you to hear this but depressed for me as I’ve only just put in an order for a 2-rail standard build SR7 (12V and 15V). I’ve had one or two near misses on picking up a relatively low-number custom build but have now given up hope on that. Just hoping that the standard SR7 will provide a significant improvement over my SR4-12 and 15V Farad Super3.
  8. A helpful post. One thing you mentioned that I had previously asked Chord Company about is the umbilical cable they make. I think I understand it is just the longer length cable that is shielded/screened in the way you describe. I assume from your mention of intending to separate the Statement boxes that you have the longer length cables.
  9. Have you ever heard any of the Paul Hynes PSUs and have a basis for commenting on how they compare to Sean’s DC3? I find myself in two minds again now that I have learned that the Paul Hynes SR5s and standard-build SR7s are available to order from PHD Ltd, and have seen the info sheets for these.
  10. So Paul confirmed the SR4 was up to the task of powering the TT2. Can I take from anything he reported back to you that my 5V-12V SR4 would also be up to the task? I expect my 15V Farad Super3 with silver cable would beat it powering the TT2 but would still be good to know just how far I could push the SR4.
  11. @nvitorinoNuno, would be great to have your comments once you’ve had chance to look into this.
  12. Thanks. The SR fuses are readily available in the UK with a generous return period so it sounds like I should give those a try before beeswax. But I have emailed Jerry at Audio Magic to ask about warranty terms as I cannot find these mentioned on their website. Before going for either SR or Beeswax I’ll will of course properly evaluate the Furutech with both the SR4 and my Farad Super3, and I’ll post something about that in the next week or so.
  13. Thanks. I’ve been thinking about trying a Beeswax fuse for some time. I was hoping they had someone in the UK dealing in their fuses, but apparently not. I imagine the Beeswax fuse improved over the stock in many areas but where there any tonal changes. I’ve read that Beeswax fuses have a warm signature, and I’m not sure I want my SR4 to be much warmer.
  14. Can I ask those of you who have tried fuse upgrades with the 5V-12V SR4 what amp-rating(s) you have have tried? I should say I am in the UK, which seems to make a difference to the Farad Super3 requirement (1A for 110-120Vac and 0.5A for 220-240Vac) but I have read that Paul Hynes said 1A was fine for the SR4 for both voltages. I would like to try some of these fuses for myself and currently have a 1A Furutech Rhodium fuse running-in with the SR4 - I’ll give it another week and will report my impressions. Some of the other obvious options (e.g. SR, Beeswax etc) are very expensive and I don’t want to buy any more than I need to just to experiment with so it would be good to get some feel for what safe/sensible leeway there might be either side of the stated fuse requirement (accepting the possibility of voided warranty with some devices). For example, I asked Paul if 0.8A would be fine with my SR4, and he said it would be. I also asked Mattijs about his 15V Farad Super3 and was told that while he thought 1A would be ok it would be at my risk (so clearly a warranty consideration). While I think of it in case I ever want to buy a 9V-19V SR4, is that supply also rated for a 1A fuse?
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