Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About highstream

  • Rank
    Sophomore Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Got my ATC active speakers when the GBP was1.21 three years ago. Btw, while the price for Paul's silver power cord is good, I've found the Zenwave Audio one (custom but common build) has a lot better and warmer tonal balance without losing clarity. I think he uses one of the better Furutech copper wires (NRG?). The only downside for me was he doesn't install micro-USB connecters, so I've had to go with an adapter, which has to be reminded of its place every once in awhile.
  2. What I'd like to know is, What I'm curious about is the relationship between this Powerstation and a regenerator, such as the PS Audio ones, in terms of effect on sound. I have an iFi spdif iPurifier, which with a better LPS and power cable offers a substantial improvement between Oppo and the dacs I've used it with, even with a top notch spdif cable. It'd be nice if a unit like the powerstation could likewise match the performance of much more costly regenerator, although that's probably a far reach.
  3. As someone who sold a much older DSD several weeks ago, three questions: Have you checked HiFi Shark for current market pricing, i.e., your competition? Have you posted it on PS Audio's forum Marketplace? What guarantee does someone have sending you a cashier's check?
  4. I agree with audicgf's appraisal of the beeswax -- modestly warm, liquid and smooth -- and you could contact Jerry at Audio Magic directly about buying one; he uses PP. Or Kitsune Hi Fi near Seattle, which gives $20 off. However the idea of trying a SR Blue on 30-day is not a bad one, if available. In my system, pre-SR4, I found the Blue has great PRAT, but once I got past that found that its tonal coolness ("neutrality") left me wanting to thrown my kit out the window. I like warm, not syrupy but the kind that draws me in emotionally so that I'm listening to the music, not the system.
  5. In the States, I’ve been using a 1A ultimate beeswax at 5V, and even 12V mistakenly for a bit, with great results and no problems with an SR4. What’s not commonly discussed or known is that developers almost invariably specify a fuse size that is well beyond what is actually needed. They do this to take into account what they can’t control: the wide variety of electrical and audio systems being used, and the wide variety of user behavior. Plus, an electrical surge is going to quickly take out most any fuse within reason. If they didn’t oversize, they’d be getting lots of complaints and returns. So I expect you'd be perfectly safe with Paul’s recommendation. I’ve long used 3.15A fuses in Quad actives that call for 2A, and at least for awhile SR fuse users were unofficially told to go high because their fuses were blowing in some systems at the rated value.
  6. As much as I disliked the SR Black fuses in my living room system, I recently realized that there are still a pair in the Quad 12L actives on my desktop, and those sound great. I don't know why, but perhaps the warmth of the Quads is overcoming the effect of the fuses, or it's that I'm running the speakers directly from the mobo with a combination of an OEM computer cord and MG Audio Design silver balanced ICs. I doubt it's the difference in fuse amp values, as my living room system has different ones. Btw, anyone wanting lower cost suggestions for fuses to try, feel free to PM me.
  7. In Paul's description of the SR4, he doesn't include a power (mains) cord, instead suggesting that a higher quality audio oriented cord will improve LPS' sound. I'm using a PS Audio AC-12, which I have throughout my system. I'm posting this note, however, to suggest consideration of something more. With the SR4 and Paul's silver cable plugged into an iFi spdif purifier at my DirectStream dac, the tone warmed up, became more detailed and improved in most other ways vs. the Kora LPS I'd been using. After 10 days of burn in, which is admittedly shorter than my usual practice, I decided to take another step and swap in an Audio Magic Ultimate Beeswax fuse. That's the same fuse I use in the dac and ATC active floorstanders. The slight thinness/edginess and reduced dynamics I was hearing with the stock fuse were soon replaced by a much smoother, somewhat warmer, liquid and more dynamic sound. That's only gotten better over time, now 12 days or roughly 300 hours in. Yes, I know the AM fuse is among the more expensive ones (Kitsune does discount it), but I've long found aftermarket audio fuses do make a difference; after all, they are in effect an extension of the power cord, and thus help determine the quality of what reaches a component's power supply, and thus what the electronic circuits the power supply feeds get. Different fuses have different audio qualities, and I've found SQ doesn't necessarily correlate with price, so to each their own sound preferences and budget. I like the AM fuse over the popular SR Black because in my living room system I've found that not withstanding the SR's amazing PRAT, it's tonally on the cool (aka "neutral") side, which drives me batty. Note that I'm not looking to start a debate here about fuses (or power cords), just tossing out an idea for those who might be interested in experimenting.
  8. SR4 purchasers have. I exchanged a few emails with him around the time mine was built and sent about a month ago.
  9. Better reiterate: The mod removed the Oppo's analog (dac) section, hence digital only. The SSD is connected to the Oppo via a (Totaldac) USB cable and sits on the top of a three level Salamander cabinet, on a different shelf than the Oppo. It also has a couple of foam/rubber blocks underneath, so there is physical isolation (all components have some kind of isolation from the cabinet shelves they sit on). Supposedly, the iFi spdif purifier connected between Oppo and DirectStream dac also provides galvanic isolation, in addition to re-clocking.
  10. If not too far off topic, I'd like to jump in here with a side question, having read Nenon's introductory summary post... In my living room system, I play music from a modified Oppo 203 (digital only) to a DirectStream dac (s/pdif and iFi spdif purifier w/SR4), and then onto ATC active floorstanders and JL Audio subs (+ better cables, power, etc.). While I have a slew of mostly older CDs, it's easier most of the time to play music files -- mostly flac, dsd, wav, w/ some mp3 -- either using a USB flash drive plugged into the 203 or, most frequently, an encased SSD connected to the 203 via a Totaldac USB cable/filter (the latter used to be part of my mostly disassembled desktop PC audio system). Control is via remotes (203, dac). In light of this thread, how would you see this use of USB/SSD? Keeping it simple so far, I don't have a streamer, and haven't set up a router extension to use the DirectStream's Bridge card to play music from my Win 10 laptop or iPad Mini. Thanks,
  11. They send out an email when it ships. If you happen to be in the States, what I found was that the package got from London to Chicago same day, but took 5 days to deliver in MT.
  12. Paul says 1A works for both voltages.
  13. Ayone know if that 1A slow-blow fuse spec is for both voltages or just 230?
  14. Just got notice that my April SR4 shipped today, Friday.
  • Create New...