The EtherREGEN thread for various network, cable, power experiences and experiments

[Mat]

7 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

I have previously posted here that the ER was designed to run at an optimal temperature of 50C, which is quite warm. So by being obsessive about keeping it cool you can actually hurt performance. I don't quite understand the mind-set of spending thousands on power supplies and external clocks and then run it too cool. Running an ER at around 50C (do not obsess about tenths of a degree here, a 5 degree spread on either side is fine) is an optimal point where conflicting effects are at a minimum. An infrared thermometer on the black case works great for measuring the temperature. In the design of the ER we went to huge lengths to make sure that all parts are at almost the  same temperature after thermal equilibrium has been achieved, thus you don't need to worry about some parts being hotter than others.

 

50C is way below the maximum operating temperature of every part in the design. Running at 50C instead of say 30C will decrease the lifespan of the unit by something like 5 days. I made the assumption that the increased performance was going to be more important to most of the people here.

 

I can't tell you what temperature to run yours at, but I can say it was designed for best performance at 50C.

 

The only time I would worry about using heatsinks is if the temperature is above 60C.

 

John S.

How about LPS1.2 , it’s the same temp ? 

[PYP]

7 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

I have previously posted here that the ER was designed to run at an optimal temperature of 50C, which is quite warm. So by being obsessive about keeping it cool you can actually hurt performance. I don't quite understand the mind-set of spending thousands on power supplies and external clocks and then run it too cool. Running an ER at around 50C (do not obsess about tenths of a degree here, a 5 degree spread on either side is fine) is an optimal point where conflicting effects are at a minimum. An infrared thermometer on the black case works great for measuring the temperature. In the design of the ER we went to huge lengths to make sure that all parts are at almost the  same temperature after thermal equilibrium has been achieved, thus you don't need to worry about some parts being hotter than others.

Thank you, John.  In my own situation, as the weather warmed up considerably, I had intermittent dropouts.   As it became a daily ritual of trying to find the problem, which included opening the cabinet door and powering off the eRs and LPS 1.2, it suddenly occurred to me that the second eR (which was the first purchased and the one connected to the clock) was hotter than usual and was uncomfortable to touch.    Adding a fan was an experiment and one that seems to have solved the problem (no dropouts since - here I'm knocking on the wood desk).   

 

The same company that makes the fan also has a "thermal trigger" so I tried that to keep the components at a toasty but functional temperature, but the lowest setting didn't quite work, therefore I opted to keep the fan on.  It may indeed work at the lowest setting once the outside temperature is below 80 degrees.  

 

BTW, the sound quality hasn't suffered, for which I am thankful.   It may be that once I can use the fan intermittently and the temperature of the components increase, I will get even better performance, but I'm already transported by my system so I don't know if this would produce a more out-of-the-body experience or not.   But I'm willing to find out.  

[GMG]

Has anyone tried sfp modules from RME?

 

https://www.rme-audio.de/sfp-module.html

 

since RME are well known for high quality audio equipment (pro and consumer), I wonder if they sourced this sfp (I don’t assume they actually developed it) as best performance/sound. 

[JohnSwenson]

3 hours ago, PYP said:

Thank you, John.  In my own situation, as the weather warmed up considerably, I had intermittent dropouts.   As it became a daily ritual of trying to find the problem, which included opening the cabinet door and powering off the eRs and LPS 1.2, it suddenly occurred to me that the second eR (which was the first purchased and the one connected to the clock) was hotter than usual and was uncomfortable to touch.    Adding a fan was an experiment and one that seems to have solved the problem (no dropouts since - here I'm knocking on the wood desk).   

 

The same company that makes the fan also has a "thermal trigger" so I tried that to keep the components at a toasty but functional temperature, but the lowest setting didn't quite work, therefore I opted to keep the fan on.  It may indeed work at the lowest setting once the outside temperature is below 80 degrees.  

 

BTW, the sound quality hasn't suffered, for which I am thankful.   It may be that once I can use the fan intermittently and the temperature of the components increase, I will get even better performance, but I'm already transported by my system so I don't know if this would produce a more out-of-the-body experience or not.   But I'm willing to find out.  

Have you measured the temperature of the "hot" one? I've had ERs running very hot without any operational issues, I would be interested in finding out the temperature where you have problems.

 

Thanks,

 

John S.

[PYP]

8 minutes ago, JohnSwenson said:

Have you measured the temperature of the "hot" one? I've had ERs running very hot without any operational issues, I would be interested in finding out the temperature where you have problems.

 

Thanks,

 

John S.

Thank you, John.  I appreciate the response.  I don't have an infrared thermometer.  Is there one you recommend for this purpose?  That said, even for the great good of audiophiles everywhere, I don't want to try a reenactment at this point (still burning in the second eR).   

 

Subjectively, the problem started when the eR was too hot to handle.  I've had it for more than a year and it never was that hot and never had issues, but adding an additional eR and LPS 1.2 warmed the cabinet considerably, I suppose.   Hadn't mentioned this in my earlier posts since I assumed this was a one-off and didn't want others to get nervous about their setups, even if they too live in a desert environment.  

[JohnSwenson]

1 hour ago, PYP said:

Thank you, John.  I appreciate the response.  I don't have an infrared thermometer.  Is there one you recommend for this purpose?  That said, even for the great good of audiophiles everywhere, I don't want to try a reenactment at this point (still burning in the second eR).   

 

Subjectively, the problem started when the eR was too hot to handle.  I've had it for more than a year and it never was that hot and never had issues, but adding an additional eR and LPS 1.2 warmed the cabinet considerably, I suppose.   Hadn't mentioned this in my earlier posts since I assumed this was a one-off and didn't want others to get nervous about their setups, even if they too live in a desert environment.  

A general purpose infrared thermometer is preferred. There are hundreds of models that are "forehead" types designed to measure temperatures of humans (very popular now due to Covid), don't use these. They are designed to work over a very narrow temperature range.

 

Amazon has a bunch in the $19 to $25 range  that can handle well below freezing to a thousand degrees or so, these work fine for measuring electronic cases. They measure the temperature of things, not air.

 

John S.

[JohnSwenson]

6 hours ago, Mat said:

How about LPS1.2 , it’s the same temp ? 

The post was for "data" devices, power supplies are completely different. Keeping the LPS-1.2 NOT hot is a good thing.

 

John S.

[agladstone]

On 5/6/2021 at 2:19 PM, PYP said:

Thank you, John.  I appreciate the response.  I don't have an infrared thermometer.  Is there one you recommend for this purpose?  That said, even for the great good of audiophiles everywhere, I don't want to try a reenactment at this point (still burning in the second eR).   

 

Subjectively, the problem started when the eR was too hot to handle.  I've had it for more than a year and it never was that hot and never had issues, but adding an additional eR and LPS 1.2 warmed the cabinet considerably, I suppose.   Hadn't mentioned this in my earlier posts since I assumed this was a one-off and didn't want others to get nervous about their setups, even if they too live in a desert environment.  

I’ve been having intermittent dropouts of my eR from day one and I don’t feel my eR is too hot at all, I’ve not yet been able to figure out what is causing it? 
so perhaps it’s not the heat that was causing it? 
Initially I was using a Baaske isolator Pre side A, so I assumed that must be the issue, but I removed it and also bought a high end Ethernet cable (Shunyata Delta) and it is still happening to me. At least 2-3 times per day I’ll suddenly loose an IP address on my Aurender server and the music just stops. 
Last, if anyone is interested, the Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable definitely made a very noticeable bump up in sound quality, my system is sounding better than ever now ! 

[PYP]

2 hours ago, agladstone said:

I’ve been having intermittent dropouts of my eR from day one and I don’t feel my eR is too hot at all, I’ve not yet been able to figure out what is causing it? 
so perhaps it’s not the heat that was causing it? 
Initially I was using a Baaske isolator Pre side A, so I assumed that must be the issue, but I removed it and also bought a high end Ethernet cable (Shunyata Delta) and it is still happening to me. At least 2-3 times per day I’ll suddenly loose an IP address on my Aurender server and the music just stops. 
Last, if anyone is interested, the Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable definitely made a very noticeable bump up in sound quality, my system is sounding better than ever now ! 

That seems like a network issue and I'm the wrong person to diagnose that kind of problem.  I've used Roon for years and the software reliably connected to the Roon endpoint 99.9% of the time.  In my case, troubleshooting was simple.    The network was fine and I had added new equipment (second eR and an LPS 1.2).  The eRs were getting power, so it wasn't the power supplies.  Power cycled anyway.  No Roon connection. Disconnected my "old" eR and connected the most recent eR.  Roon found the endpoint.  "New" eR is not the problem.  Reconnected everything as it had been and found that my first eR was too hot to handle.  That was never an issue previously.   The ceiling fan was cooling me as I worked, but the air flow couldn't reach into the cabinet.  Get the cabinet its own fan, I thought.  That worked.  

 

I will most likely demo a Shunyata Delta clock cable.  Well shielded, it seems.  Worth a few days for a demo.   Their stuff seems innovative.  

[agladstone]

10 minutes ago, PYP said:

That seems like a network issue and I'm the wrong person to diagnose that kind of problem.  I've used Roon for years and the software reliably connected to the Roon endpoint 99.9% of the time.  In my case, troubleshooting was simple.    The network was fine and I had added new equipment (second eR and an LPS 1.2).  The eRs were getting power, so it wasn't the power supplies.  Power cycled anyway.  No Roon connection. Disconnected my "old" eR and connected the most recent eR.  Roon found the endpoint.  "New" eR is not the problem.  Reconnected everything as it had been and found that my first eR was too hot to handle.  That was never an issue previously.   The ceiling fan was cooling me as I worked, but the air flow couldn't reach into the cabinet.  Get the cabinet its own fan, I thought.  That worked.  

 

I will most likely demo a Shunyata Delta clock cable.  Well shielded, it seems.  Worth a few days for a demo.   Their stuff seems innovative.  

Thanks for the insight. I am starting to think about getting new cable modem and router and  all new Ethernet cables (prob try Cat 8 with Telegartner style plugs and put shrink wrap around cable under plugs so their not connected to shield). 
I suspect it’s possible I have issues with modem, router, or current cables (or all 3)? 
These intermittent dropouts are so annoying and I have to recycle the power on modem, router, and eR (in that order) each time they occur before my server gets IP address back. 
I did assign a static IP address to my server/streamer, and that did not solve the problem. 
I can’t say enough good things about the Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable and also the bunch of Shunyata Venom 10NR (noise reduction) and Venom Digtial NR power cables I added a few weeks ago. Combined along with the EtherRegen and the two new JS-2’s I got (added all these things about a month or so ), my system is on such a new / higher level vs. ever before !! 

[Duckworp]

On 5/5/2021 at 4:45 AM, Rsbrsvp said:

Is there any conclusion about using attenuators on the SFP input of ER or is it system/ear dependent?

I am currently experimenting with -3db and -15db attenuators attached to the ER end of single mode fiber. I am liking the differences in one of my systems.  The -15db is my preferred option.  It is a subtle improvement to the soundstage and timing.  In my other system I cannot hear any change in SQ.   At a cost of a few £ or $ each they are worth a try. 

[JohnSwenson]

3 hours ago, agladstone said:

I’ve been having intermittent dropouts of my eR from day one and I don’t feel my eR is too hot at all, I’ve not yet been able to figure out what is causing it? 
so perhaps it’s not the heat that was causing it? 
Initially I was using a Baaske isolator Pre side A, so I assumed that must be the issue, but I removed it and also bought a high end Ethernet cable (Shunyata Delta) and it is still happening to me. At least 2-3 times per day I’ll suddenly loose an IP address on my Aurender server and the music just stops. 
Last, if anyone is interested, the Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable definitely made a very noticeable bump up in sound quality, my system is sounding better than ever now ! 

This sounds like an issue with your DHCP server, or connections to it. In most systems the DHCP server is in the "router" whatever that may be. A LOT of residential router have a problem where they get slower and slower over (most likely some bug in their software) that causes their response to DHCP requests to get longer and longer. The more switches you have between the router and the endpoint (and remember the ER IS a switch) the worse this issue is. At some point the endpoint times out when the response is so long.

 

This can usually be temporarily fixed by rebooting the router, which fixes the problem for a while, but then it gets slower and slower over time and eventually starts happening again. I had this problem for quite a while and had to reboot my router at least once a month to prevent this.  This can be fixed by getting your own router (not relying on the one built in with your modem/router from your ISP), I'm a big fan of pfSense running on a small fanless computer.

 

It can also be caused by as simple a thing as a bad cable. Do not assume all Ethernet cables are always good. Probably somewhere around 10% of network problems such as this are caused by bad cables. This is fairly easy to test, go to amazon and buy a bunch of decent but inexpensive Ethernet cables and start swapping them in. Note this is just for testing, buy inexpensive for this then buy "better" ones if you wish after testing.

 

One thing I have found that has been the culprit in many cases is long runs, such as in wall runs etc, that were done wrong. Patch cables are stranded wire and long run cable (the stuff sold in spools) is solid conductor. Most of the connectors you can buy for terminating your own cables are designed for stranded wire, when used with solid core they will work for awhile but over time the connection will get poor. The solid core wire was traditionally designed to be used with punch down  blocks. There ARE some pretty good connectors that will work with solid core cables, but you have to make SURE they are designed for that.

 

John S.

 

 

[agladstone]

18 minutes ago, JohnSwenson said:

This sounds like an issue with your DHCP server, or connections to it. In most systems the DHCP server is in the "router" whatever that may be. A LOT of residential router have a problem where they get slower and slower over (most likely some bug in their software) that causes their response to DHCP requests to get longer and longer. The more switches you have between the router and the endpoint (and remember the ER IS a switch) the worse this issue is. At some point the endpoint times out when the response is so long.

 

This can usually be temporarily fixed by rebooting the router, which fixes the problem for a while, but then it gets slower and slower over time and eventually starts happening again. I had this problem for quite a while and had to reboot my router at least once a month to prevent this.  This can be fixed by getting your own router (not relying on the one built in with your modem/router from your ISP), I'm a big fan of pfSense running on a small fanless computer.

 

It can also be caused by as simple a thing as a bad cable. Do not assume all Ethernet cables are always good. Probably somewhere around 10% of network problems such as this are caused by bad cables. This is fairly easy to test, go to amazon and buy a bunch of decent but inexpensive Ethernet cables and start swapping them in. Note this is just for testing, buy inexpensive for this then buy "better" ones if you wish after testing.

 

One thing I have found that has been the culprit in many cases is long runs, such as in wall runs etc, that were done wrong. Patch cables are stranded wire and long run cable (the stuff sold in spools) is solid conductor. Most of the connectors you can buy for terminating your own cables are designed for stranded wire, when used with solid core they will work for awhile but over time the connection will get poor. The solid core wire was traditionally designed to be used with punch down  blocks. There ARE some pretty good connectors that will work with solid core cables, but you have to make SURE they are designed for that.

 

John S.

 

 

John:

Thanks as always for your endless and helpful knowledge and advice! 
I actually do own my own Arris DOCIS 3.0 modem and Netgear Nighthawk router. 
They are both about 3-4 years old now and I haven’t been able to update the Netgear router to the most recent firmware (keeps failing to auto update). 
Ive been suspecting they could be the cause and possibly even the firmware issue adding to it? 
Also, while I don’t have a long in-wall run of Ethernet cable, I do have a long run of in-wall coax leading from the cable in from my condo building to where it connects in my stereo rack, it was done by some real “hacks” I hired for cheap about 8 years ago, and I’ve sometimes wondered if that could in some way be contributing to any of this also? 
Last, while I do have all BlueJeans Cables Cat 6A Ethernet cables, I ordered a bunch at very short lengths (1 foot and 2 foot) and I can tell that they’re strained and twisted, etc - so this is yet another possible culprit. 
When I recently bought my Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable to go from eR to Aurender, it only comes in 1.5 meter length, and they told the reason is because they did a lot of testing and discovered that 1.5 M is the needed and best length to ensure signal integrity, so I was also thinking when I replace all my patch cables, I should get all 1.5M just in case what Shunyata is saying is true (it could be marketing BS too and they’re just saying this because it’s easier to only make / sell all one length?)  

Time for me to start testing all of the above one by one and see what fixes my intermittent loss of IP address to my Aurender server! (Same intermittent dropouts happening less often with my computers or iPad, etc). 
Thanks again for all your help! 

[JohnSwenson]

1 hour ago, agladstone said:

John:

Thanks as always for your endless and helpful knowledge and advice! 
I actually do own my own Arris DOCIS 3.0 modem and Netgear Nighthawk router. 
They are both about 3-4 years old now and I haven’t been able to update the Netgear router to the most recent firmware (keeps failing to auto update). 
Ive been suspecting they could be the cause and possibly even the firmware issue adding to it? 
Also, while I don’t have a long in-wall run of Ethernet cable, I do have a long run of in-wall coax leading from the cable in from my condo building to where it connects in my stereo rack, it was done by some real “hacks” I hired for cheap about 8 years ago, and I’ve sometimes wondered if that could in some way be contributing to any of this also? 
Last, while I do have all BlueJeans Cables Cat 6A Ethernet cables, I ordered a bunch at very short lengths (1 foot and 2 foot) and I can tell that they’re strained and twisted, etc - so this is yet another possible culprit. 
When I recently bought my Shunyata Delta Ethernet cable to go from eR to Aurender, it only comes in 1.5 meter length, and they told the reason is because they did a lot of testing and discovered that 1.5 M is the needed and best length to ensure signal integrity, so I was also thinking when I replace all my patch cables, I should get all 1.5M just in case what Shunyata is saying is true (it could be marketing BS too and they’re just saying this because it’s easier to only make / sell all one length?)  

Time for me to start testing all of the above one by one and see what fixes my intermittent loss of IP address to my Aurender server! (Same intermittent dropouts happening less often with my computers or iPad, etc). 
Thanks again for all your help! 

With proper impedance matching exact cable length should not matter. If they are having length issues it may point to their cables not being proper impedance.

 

First thing I would do is reboot the router and see if the issues go away. If the problems go away then going with a different router is probably a good idea. As I mentioned I highly recommend running pfSense (free software) on a small reliable computer. It works very well, is highly configurable and does not have the "going slower" issue.

 

You can buy "appliances" with pfSense already loaded but they usually cost a lot more than doing it yourself.

 

John S.

[Johnnydev]

Hi Agladstone,

 

Did you perhaps connected a different, too small, power supply to the netgear nighthawk?

 

I also have two EtherRegens and last week I removed my Farad super3 12V 3A from the netgear and placed an SMPS that was too small and got exactly the same problems.

 

Measuring all cables was not the problem.

After installing a 12V 4A meanwell medical SMPS all problems were solved

 

[agladstone]

15 hours ago, Johnnydev said:

Hi Agladstone,

 

Did you perhaps connected a different, too small, power supply to the netgear nighthawk?

 

I also have two EtherRegens and last week I removed my Farad super3 12V 3A from the netgear and placed an SMPS that was too small and got exactly the same problems.

 

Measuring all cables was not the problem.

After installing a 12V 4A meanwell medical SMPS all problems were solved

 

I am actually using an external HDPLEX LPSU set at 12V to power my Netgear. I can’t remember the Amps for the HDPLEX, but I thought it was more than 4A, however I’m also using it to power my Arris Modem, so maybe between the two it’s not enough Amps? 
I’ll try swamping LPSU’s around to see if giving it more power helps. 
 

[GryphonGuy]

23 hours ago, JohnSwenson said:

With proper impedance matching exact cable length should not matter. If they are having length issues it may point to their cables not being proper impedance.

 

First thing I would do is reboot the router and see if the issues go away. If the problems go away then going with a different router is probably a good idea. As I mentioned I highly recommend running pfSense (free software) on a small reliable computer. It works very well, is highly configurable and does not have the "going slower" issue.

 

You can buy "appliances" with pfSense already loaded but they usually cost a lot more than doing it yourself.

 

John S.

 

Since changing from consumer router to pfsense router + separate switches, things never fail, and I can use the full internet bandwidth I am paying for. Here in Malaysia, the only compulsory device is the ISP provided fibre-to-copper media converter. Everything else after that can be your own equipment.

 

So a +1 for pfsense (if your ISP allows BYO Router).

 

Regards

GG

[agladstone]

11 minutes ago, GryphonGuy said:

 

Since changing from consumer router to pfsense router + separate switches, things never fail, and I can use the full internet bandwidth I am paying for. Here in Malaysia, the only compulsory device is the ISP provided fibre-to-copper media converter. Everything else after that can be your own equipment.

 

So a +1 for pfsense (if your ISP allows BYO Router).

 

Regards

GG

I will need to investigate pfsense! 
if it installs on a PC or stand alone device, is it software only vs hardware, or does it still use my router, but with the pfsense SW instead of Netgear (or other) firmware ? 

[GryphonGuy]

7 minutes ago, agladstone said:

I will need to investigate pfsense! 
if it installs on a PC or stand alone device, is it software only vs hardware, or does it still use my router, but with the pfsense SW instead of Netgear (or other) firmware ? 

 

pfsense is not for the novice networker. There is a lot of setting up to do. Even if you buy the Netgate hardware, you may be paying for somebody to set it up for you as you wouldn't want to leave your front door open for ventilation in a trusting manner in this day and age.

 

My reason for changing was that the ISP provided wireless router just could not perform its duties when it had to route Wireless and wired signals at the same time. The average Malaysian household would be a few WiFi devices and maybe 1 wired device. I have approximately 20 devices half of which are IoT and the other half wired traditional devices.

 

I even used Ubiquiti gear (and still do for Wifi) but their software is a mess and the business model has to fail at some point as it is a self imposed pyramid selling scheme (they have to sell more and more devices with lifetime free support to keep the funds for development coming in). So I jumped ship a year or so ago. 

 

Regards

GG

[agladstone]

6 minutes ago, GryphonGuy said:

 

pfsense is not for the novice networker. There is a lot of setting up to do. Even if you buy the Netgate hardware, you may be paying for somebody to set it up for you as you wouldn't want to leave your front door open for ventilation in a trusting manner in this day and age.

 

My reason for changing was that the ISP provided wireless router just could not perform its duties when it had to route Wireless and wired signals at the same time. The average Malaysian household would be a few WiFi devices and maybe 1 wired device. I have approximately 20 devices half of which are IoT and the other half wired traditional devices.

 

I even used Ubiquiti gear (and still do for Wifi) but their software is a mess and the business model has to fail at some point as it is a self imposed pyramid selling scheme (they have to sell more and more devices with lifetime free support to keep the funds for development coming in). So I jumped ship a year or so ago. 

 

Regards

GG

I just looked at pfsense and also OPNsense and they both seem above and beyond my current tech ability, even the preconfigured HW Soluions (which all look really nice!). 
maybe there is a Lite version that can be loaded onto my Netgear to replace their own firmware? 

[GryphonGuy]

22 minutes ago, agladstone said:

I just looked at pfsense and also OPNsense and they both seem above and beyond my current tech ability, even the preconfigured HW Soluions (which all look really nice!). 
maybe there is a Lite version that can be loaded onto my Netgear to replace their own firmware? 

 

No "Lite" versions that I am aware of. Even if Netgear's hardware allowed third-party firmware, that's just a recipe for disaster 😪

[Johnnydev]

I've had my netgear nighthawk in my system for 7 years and never had any dropouts. only last week with that SMPS that was too small

[R1200CL]

9 hours ago, agladstone said:

I just looked at pfsense and also OPNsense and they both seem above and beyond my current tech ability, even the preconfigured HW Soluions (which all look really nice!). 
maybe there is a Lite version that can be loaded onto my Netgear to replace their own firmware? 

If you have a used PC around, you can play with iPFire. (This is what I’m using)
https://www.ipfire.org/

https://wiki.ipfire.org/

 

If you ever implement your own DHCP server (and firewall), the ISP modem/router must be bridged.

 

[Rsbrsvp]

I have received and installed my DX Ethernet filters between my modem and my Sonore Optical Module Deluxe which precedes my ER.

 

IMMEDIATELY with NO BURN IN I heard a very appreciable sonic upgrade.  We are talking about serious "veil lifting".

 

I know Mr. Swenson said the improvement would be system dependent and range between no improvement and minor improvement when placed before side A, but my ears hear appreciable improvement.  I know audiophiles have a tendency to exaggerate, but I have considered my words before writing them and I am confident that the improvement is appreciable.....

 

Thank you to "one and a half" for the recommendation of this truly incredible (and almost free) product.  SUPERB.....

[Oggo]

Q1: What do you think - will this be an appropriate 3-way power supply (voltage set to 3 x 12v) for 2 daisy-chained EtherRegens + 1 external word-clock?

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32827186160.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.51b1170d7BkpDE&algo_pvid=7775ceeb-ebd0-4e7a-ba2e-f8318854d3da&algo_expid=7775ceeb-ebd0-4e7a-ba2e-f8318854d3da-0&btsid=2100bdd516206723099127251e47ca&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

 

 

Q2: If I connect 2 channels of a BG7TBL word-clock to 2 daisy-chained EtherRegens (router > fiber > ER1 A-in > ER1 B-out > cat > ER2 A-in > ER2 B-out > cat > media player), will this break the EtherRegen´s moats?