The true experimental tweak thread

[rah50]

Hi all:

 

I received two 3045 boards (8v & 7v) from LDOVR and will use them from the 9 volt out of my HDPlex 100 to input 7 volts to my microRendu. I have two easy questions:

 

1. Does the wire used to connect the 3045's and the connectors make much difference as they only total a couple inches? It looks like Cornan is using the individual wires, in pairs, from the Canare but since it's no longer star quad why and what is optimum?

 

2.Can heat shrink tubing be used to protect everything or will that cause heat build up on the 3045's that is not acceptable?

 

Thanks!

[Cornan]

3 minutes ago, rah50 said:

Hi all:

 

I received two 3045 boards (8v & 7v) from LDOVR and will use them from the 9 volt out of my HDPlex 100 to input 7 volts to my microRendu. I have two easy questions:

 

1. Does the wire used to connect the 3045's and the connectors make much difference as they only total a couple inches? It looks like Cornan is using the individual wires, in pairs, from the Canare but since it's no longer star quad why and what is optimum?

 

2.Can heat shrink tubing be used to protect everything or will that cause heat build up on the 3045's that is not acceptable?

 

Thanks!

 

Hi rah50!

Great things coming! ?

 

RE 1. Not really needed to use dual wires, but the overall gauge do matter.

 

RE 2. Shrink wrap can be used if the voltage drop is low (and current draw is not too big). Heat have negative impact on LT3045s and needs to be considered.

[maty]

My advice on amplifiers with a lot of watts was by mail and not in forums. With pros and cons.

 

https://www.stereophile.com/content/rogue-audio-rp-1-preamplifier

Maybe is a earth/ground problem.  Have you tried connecting together the ground of the preamp and the poweramp?

[charlesphoto]

21 hours ago, rah50 said:

Hi all:

 

I received two 3045 boards (8v & 7v) from LDOVR and will use them from the 9 volt out of my HDPlex 100 to input 7 volts to my microRendu. I have two easy questions:

 

1. Does the wire used to connect the 3045's and the connectors make much difference as they only total a couple inches? It looks like Cornan is using the individual wires, in pairs, from the Canare but since it's no longer star quad why and what is optimum?

 

2.Can heat shrink tubing be used to protect everything or will that cause heat build up on the 3045's that is not acceptable?

 

Thanks!

 

I have one coming for inbetween the LPS-1 and microRendu. I’m planning on connecting the LT3045 to the LPS-1 direct with a dc barrel connector (sort of like hanging the microRendu off my dac with the Uptone UPCB) and making a little lego stand for it, and then my Supra CAT8/Oyaide dc plugs after that. Has anyone else tried this?

[drjimwillie]

23 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

 

 I noticed the hum when I first got the rogue RP-1.  I did 1 million diagnostics, and then sent the RP-1  back to rogue. They checked it out and said that it was fine.    Previously I had a Conrad Johnson solid-state preamp. 

 

@Abtr  I am going to try using one ground first. They are 10 gauge wires, so I'm assuming it should be sufficient. I'll let you know when I get it all hooked back up. 

 I reattached the lifted grounds in both my amp and my preamp. 

 To reduce the chance of ground loop between the two dedicated circuits I have for my amp and preamp I thought that I would  Drop one ground from the main and share the ground from both circuits. But thinking about an article I got from @maty regarding the best sounding power cords. The article said that the ground should be at least the size of either the neutral or the heart regarding the best sounding power cords. The article said that the ground should be at least the size of either the neutral or the hot. Because I have two circuits sell two hearts I decided it would be best to  have two grounds. I ran both circuits at the same time. Both cables are run together under the same Staples, they are next to each other in the breaker panel,  and they are the bottom two breakers. I decided that should work well together. So the question was how to fire them. I got fanatical and realized I should wire them in a star ground configuration.  All of my grounds going back to the panel and out to the receptacles should originate from the same point. Everything was going great until I needed to make a minor adjustment. And then it turned into one of those types of projects. 

 Wiring the two grounds together did not sound any worse. I can't honestly say if it sounded better,  it may have.  It was hard to concentrate on improvements. 

 Because I had three attached my grounds to the amp and preamp, the hum was back.   I can hear it from my listening position.  When I put the cheater plug on the amp,  only the slightest hiss. 

 I pulled out the Conrad Johnson solid-state amp and I put in my old Adcom hundred watt solid-state amp.  Hooked it up went to plug it in and ha ha two prong plug.  Sounded pretty good in my current set up.  And then I thought about the question @maty asked me.  "When did it start".  It started when I put in the rogue RP-1.  I still have my Conrad Johnson solid-state preamp so I  hooked it up.  I can only hear a slight home if I put my ear right up to the speaker.   So Conrad Johnson PF – 1 preamp + Conrad Johnson MF– 2200 amp – good. CJ + RP-1,  some kind of bad reaction.  As I said I already sent the rogue back to the manufacturer for them to check it out and they told me it was good.  

 Well, when I get my isolation transformer and my DC blocker things are going to sound great ha ha 

[Cornan]

Here is my initial report of the Supra Cat 8 as a DC cable with JSSG. Please take this first report with a grain of salt. More evaluations will come in the following weeks or so and I would’nt be surprised if this impressions will change with some burn-in and further experiments.

 

 

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, charlesphoto said:

 

I have one coming for inbetween the LPS-1 and microRendu. I’m planning on connecting the LT3045 to the LPS-1 direct with a dc barrel connector (sort of like hanging the microRendu off my dac with the Uptone UPCB) and making a little lego stand for it, and then my Supra CAT8/Oyaide dc plugs after that. Has anyone else tried this?

 

Is this something similar to what @simonp is doing?

I have’nt tried it but can highly recommend you to try Kemet A750 (25v/560uF) caps on both input and output on single LT3045.

The Supra Cat 8 have already improved some since I started listening BTW. Looks promising that it do improve with hours on it. Could also be the caps that I use of course. 

[Cornan]

48 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Here is my initial report of the Supra Cat 8 as a DC cable with JSSG. Please take this first report with a grain of salt. More evaluations will come in the following weeks or so and I would’nt be surprised if this impressions will change with some burn-in and further experiments.

 

 

 

Interesting! After roughly 40 minutes of constant music listening the Supra Cat 8 as DC cable with JSSG is a clear winner over Canare 4S6! I wonder if the Kemet’s needed some time to recharge? The sound is now clearly sweeter and more detailed than with the Canare 4S6 without JSSG. No more hollow sound or sibilance noticeable. Width and depth similar to Canare 4S6 now. Just better overall to the Canare 4S6 with a short burn-in time that I think is due to the Kemet rather than the Supra Cat 8. Clearly worth a persue! ?

[lmitche]

5 hours ago, charlesphoto said:

 

I have one coming for inbetween the LPS-1 and microRendu. I’m planning on connecting the LT3045 to the LPS-1 direct with a dc barrel connector (sort of like hanging the microRendu off my dac with the Uptone UPCB) and making a little lego stand for it, and then my Supra CAT8/Oyaide dc plugs after that. Has anyone else tried this?

I run the cable from the lps-1 to a stack of two lt3045s joined with standoffs. The cable connects directly to the lt3045 screw teminals so the only connector is on the lps-1 end. From the lt3045 output a one inch cable leads to a right angle plug and then into the ISO Regen.

[maty]

14 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

"When did it start".  It started when I put in the rogue RP-1.  I still have my Conrad Johnson solid-state preamp so I  hooked it up.  I can only hear a slight home if I put my ear right up to the speaker.   So Conrad Johnson PF – 1 preamp + Conrad Johnson MF– 2200 amp – good. CJ + RP-1,  some kind of bad reaction.  As I said I already sent the rogue back to the manufacturer for them to check it out and they told me it was good...

 

You can change the old 4+4 big Nichicon 10,000uF 50V +2 electrolytics in the MF2200 with Mundorf MLGO 10,000/15,000uF 63V 125ºC by $200 + shipping. And something else if you like very much the Conrad sound. Much cheaper than a new amplifier. In some hours, the PM with alternatives.

 

 

 

[drjimwillie]

6 hours ago, maty said:

 

You can change the old 4+4 big Nichicon 10,000uF 50V +2 electrolytics in the MF2200 with Mundorf MLGO 10,000/15,000uF 63V 125ºC by $200 + shipping. And something else if you like very much the Conrad sound. Much cheaper than a new amplifier. In some hours, the PM with alternatives.

 Is it the inherent incompatibility between the  amp and preamp.  What would be the cause?  Why would changing these caps fix it? 

 I have never received a PM before.  Will It go directly to my email or will I get a notice and have to except it from CA?

 

 Now for listening impressions, which is the fun part.  Sorry I didn't give them earlier, but I am  only allowed to tweak my system when no one is home, and it has to be completely tidied up before they return. Spending time on my stereo is frowned upon.   But I can't help myself.

 

 Trying to deal with this hum issue I have learned a lot about grounding.  Unfortunately because of my time constraint I did two tweaks at the same time. I restored my lifted grounds on the amp and preamp  & I tied the two dedicated circuits together, using both grounds back to the panel, Terminated in the star ground between the outlets.  

 The first thing I noticed was the hum &  and put on a cheater plug.  To cheater plug is old and decrepit so I could not trust what I heard.   When my system sounds good it seems as though the base just spills out of the speakers because it is so easy and effortless.  The system sounded at least as good as it had previously. I remove the cheater plug. When I turn the volume up to my normal testing level I could not hear the hum.   I was worried that the hum would be in the background of the music and it would ruin my experience, but that did not happen. The music still had that effortless feeling,  but the base was tighter there was more control and more authority.   Tying the two circuits together has the potential benefit to reduce any possible ground loop  and it increases the size of the ground going back to the panel. 

 When I installed the matching CJ preamp, the music was great.  I think the grounding incompatibility is holding back the rogue RP-1.  When I first installed the RP-1,  which has two tubes, I thought there would be a drastic difference. But currently there isn't.  This CJ solid-state preamp, that matches the amp, still gives me that effortless base feeling. But with possibly quicker pacing. Last night my foot  was really tapping with the music. 

 I was following @RogerD and  how he is tying all of his pieces of equipment together with heavy gauge cable.    I made up (2) 2/0 cable  for the amp and for the preamp. They both will tie together at the grounding terminal on the preamp. RodgerD says that  equalizing the potential between all of your equipment allows the data to return on your interconnects more efficientley.

 I also learned that the grounding/return on your interconnects is very important.  To that end I am having Ghent make me some interconnects, made with Belden 1804A star-quad and KLE harmony plugs.   This is a cable that J.S.  Said he liked better than the cables he made up with the  Canare.  Has anyone else made these cables and tried them, please?   I am trying to gauge if they will sound better than my Kimber Hero interconnects. 

 

[rah50]

I'm VERY happy with the results of adding the two LT-3045's between my HDPlex 100 and microRendu!

 

I followed Cornan's layout exactly but now that I have proof of concept, a better layout would be to splice the LT-3045's into my Ghent/Canare/Oyaide cable, will be much neater.

 

Also need to order two more to go between LPS-1 and ISO Regen.

 

Thanks Cornan and everyone contributing to this thread!

[Cornan]

1 hour ago, rah50 said:

I'm VERY happy with the results of adding the two LT-3045's between my HDPlex 100 and microRendu!

 

I followed Cornan's layout exactly but now that I have proof of concept, a better layout would be to splice the LT-3045's into my Ghent/Canare/Oyaide cable, will be much neater.

 

Also need to order two more to go between LPS-1 and ISO Regen.

 

Thanks Cornan and everyone contributing to this thread!

 

Great to hear Bob! ?

I am happy you are enjoying your LT3045s! ??

That’s what I think this thread is all about. Every single contributor help and educate others with their personal experiences and experiments towards a common goal. 

[soares]

On 20/05/2018 at 12:48 PM, charlesphoto said:

 

I have one coming for inbetween the LPS-1 and microRendu. I’m planning on connecting the LT3045 to the LPS-1 direct with a dc barrel connector (sort of like hanging the microRendu off my dac with the Uptone UPCB) and making a little lego stand for it, and then my Supra CAT8/Oyaide dc plugs after that. Has anyone else tried this?

Can we have some pics please? Cheers.

[Cornan]

Finally I came home after a week in the capital of Sweden. Stockholm. First thing in my mind was to finalize my “Uber-LPSU”. I collected the final parcel needed on my way home. Bummer 1. The red case was too small to fit my dual HC-HPULNs by annoying 1 cm. Bummer 2. The snap-on PCB holders did’nt fit the holes on the HC-HPULN. I had to modify them using a wire cutter to make them fit properly. Anyway, not too bore you with a lot of DIY explenations I just add 14 pictures that explains the work I did without a lot of  annoying words. Hold on to something! ?

 

 

I made sure to set the first HC-HPULN to 14,2 VDC out and the second HC-HPULN to 12VDC as “required” by Brooklyn DAC (well 13,2VDC is alright as well but is not a game changer in my perticular evaluation). I monitored each voltage to ensure a stabile regulation. I also monitored the heat on the heatsinks as soon as I powered on my Brooklyn DAC. No problems what so ever! 

 

So, I sat down comfortably in my cognac leather sofa and had a initial listen to Kalehan - Temple of Maia as you guys know I have listen to a lot lately. To the edge of madness perhaps, but with the only purpose to know everything about how it sounds in detail. Any changes are very obvious to me. Big or small.

Anyway, immediately I noticed that there was more presence compared to Gophert csp-3205II. A more touchable sound. Sweeter. More music glow. A more “round” sound (if that one makes sense? Less edgier perhaps?)

The words sweet and music glow stays with me. I love it! Gophert csp-3205II is surely been beaten but not down to ten. For price vs performance the Gophert csp-3205II wins hands down, but if you are are eliminating bottlenecks the balanced & floating AC-AC ps will give you additional music glow & sweetness that will get you further up the ladder. This is two of the things that I am searching for so despite them not being night & day differences they are surely enough to keep this camper more than happy! ?

 

This proves to me that the Gophert csp-3205II is a truly amazing price vs performance PSU. Forget all about it being a SMPS (it is floating for good’s sake). With a couple of LT3045s it will get you to the stairs of heaven. The balanced & floating AC-AC ps will get you one step further. Perhaps to or even through the gates of heaven! I just love, love, love it! ??

 

 

[Cornan]

Another thing. Now I can with ease keep the volume up to -30dB  equilliant to -40dB with the Gophert. The harshness is all gone. I will try -20dB tomorrow! ?

[mozes]

Congrats Cornan! I am happy that you plan worked. I already received my two HC-HPULNs and need to decide on where and how to use them. Too many choices!

[amolan]

Hi Guys,

 

Where did you buy this HC-HPULN ?

 

Thanks,

 

Alexandre.

[Cornan]

6 minutes ago, mozes said:

Congrats Cornan! I am happy that you plan worked. I already received my two HC-HPULNs and need to decide on where and how to use them. Too many choices!

 

Thanks Moussa! ? That’s the beauty of the HC-HPULNs. They can fit almost everywhere! ?

[Cornan]

5 minutes ago, amolan said:

Hi Guys,

 

Where did you buy this HC-HPULN ?

 

Thanks,

 

Alexandre.

 

From here http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendor-s-bazaar/310402-fs-ultra-low-noise-power-supply-lt3045-based-pcb-2.html#post5227003

Make sure to tell Michael (Stammheim) that you want single output 5A. The HC-HPULN is still not officially released.

[Cornan]

One more thing. It surely improves with burn-in (despite I am a non-beleiver in burn-in). The SQ have turned more crisp lately. From top to bottom. In a fuck-it type of way! ? Dynamics have improved vastly over the last 30 minutes or so. Cool! ?

[lmitche]

2 hours ago, Cornan said:

One more thing. It surely improves with burn-in (despite I am a non-beleiver in burn-in). The SQ have turned more crisp lately. From top to bottom. In a fuck-it type of way! ? Dynamics have improved vastly over the last 30 minutes or so. Cool! ?

In my experience it takes 48 hours for the lt3045s to settle. It will get better yet.

[sandyk]

2 hours ago, lmitche said:

In my experience it takes 48 hours for the lt3045s to settle. It will get better yet. 

 

 Hi Larry

Many Active Semiconductor devices do this. Even the dual LM4562HA metal can opamp, which already sounded a little better than the  DIP8 version straight away , improved further over a period of about a week. This was also the experience of most constructors of my HA design in a U.K. based forum where over 300 were built.

 Yet, many people refuse to accept that this does happen.

In this case it wasn't due to other components such as electrolytic capacitors further "forming" either, as the replacement with the LM4562HA was done much later on.

Regards

Alex

 

Quote

  By the way the metal can parts sound better than the dip parts but measure the same on the AP2 Cascade (192).

-Audioman54 (Mark)    http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/132471-national-opamp-inflation.html

 

[Ralf11]

as GUTC says:

 

"TO-5 Rules,

DIP Drools"

 

[Rexp]

On 5/19/2018 at 2:54 AM, Cornan said:

Infact, that is what I have done all the time but not felt the need to post. What’s here is what’s needed fair and square! ?

Great to hear your experimentation has paid off. Are you mainly using Tidal? And can you list your digital chain, cheers!