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Would you guys buy one of this cable


IQ_AV

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Hi:

I am looking at replacing the stock cable for my switching PSU and was looking at the some of the power cord cable:

 

Hi End Furukawa Audio Power Cable Cord 1M 3ft | eBay

 

If that's the right use or you would use it for something else.

 

Ahmed

Lenovo TS140(XEON E3-1225 v3 3.2GH) Win 2012 R2 4GB RAM RoonLab Audio Optimizer PPANG USB Card Larry's HDPlex-> CA DacMagic Plus -> AudioResearch DS225 Audioquest XLR -> Sonus Faber Olympica 2 Kimber Speaker Wire->(Main)RPi2 -> RoonBridge -> Onkyo TX-NR609 -> 7.1 In Wall Polk Audio SVS Sub (Home Theatre)

Allo Digione Signature -> HK Signature 2.0 -> Carver THX Amp -> NHT Zero + SVS SB-1000 (LivingRoom)

 

 

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Another one that caught my eye is this one

Red REFERENCE3 Audiophile 3ft Power Cord 8 GA Gauge Pangea Made in America | eBay

 

I will be getting a LPSU to drive the OS SSD and and USB card that connects to the DAC but was thinking of keeping the existing PSU in there as well to power the MOBO, two fans, CPU cooler, and an optical drive to listen to CDs once in while. I have an Antec Varis case and Antec 430W power supply. I am using my machine only to listen music these days and originally built to be quiet and watch Blu Ray.

Lenovo TS140(XEON E3-1225 v3 3.2GH) Win 2012 R2 4GB RAM RoonLab Audio Optimizer PPANG USB Card Larry's HDPlex-> CA DacMagic Plus -> AudioResearch DS225 Audioquest XLR -> Sonus Faber Olympica 2 Kimber Speaker Wire->(Main)RPi2 -> RoonBridge -> Onkyo TX-NR609 -> 7.1 In Wall Polk Audio SVS Sub (Home Theatre)

Allo Digione Signature -> HK Signature 2.0 -> Carver THX Amp -> NHT Zero + SVS SB-1000 (LivingRoom)

 

 

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Do not buy this cable or its other looking offerings.

 

The connectors are not from Oyaide, although they look like them. They are also not from Furutech. There's no certificate of suitability I can see.

 

Without inspecting the cable jacket, the ratings of the cable could be doubtful for 230V systems, although the colours shown are Euro designations.

 

Suggest the OP sticks with known brands, check the Cable Company's listings on valid power cables. Whether they sound good or reduce noise is another story entirely. Note Acoustic Revive and Oyaide products can have a long frustrating delivery time.

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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Looks kind of cool though. May give your system some kind of street cred.

 

I agree. It looks like an expensive cable for a fraction of the price, which sounds like a good deal. Ask a few audiophile listeners to listen to your system without making them aware of the price, and some might tell you that your purchase of this cable explains why the sound of your system comes from such a black background, with lots of air around instruments.

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Another one that caught my eye is this one

Red REFERENCE3 Audiophile 3ft Power Cord 8 GA Gauge Pangea Made in America | eBay

 

I will be getting a LPSU to drive the OS SSD and and USB card that connects to the DAC but was thinking of keeping the existing PSU in there as well to power the MOBO, two fans, CPU cooler, and an optical drive to listen to CDs once in while. I have an Antec Varis case and Antec 430W power supply. I am using my machine only to listen music these days and originally built to be quiet and watch Blu Ray.

 

It looks cool too. Its design reminds me of the power cords that my grandparents had kept from when they wired their house in the 1930s. Let's just hope that their level of safety is not also reminiscent of 1930s' electrical equipment.

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Well, I think that most of that very high quality power cables are BS. Why not to buy yourself a good industry standard high gauge cable like this one for instance: Lapp Online Catalog and build the cord itself? Fraction of the price.

 

BTW, make sure that the shielding is connected only on the source side, meaning close to your wall outlet, but not on the audio equipment side and you're done.

--

Krzysztof Maj

http://mkrzych.wordpress.com/

"Music is the highest form of art. It is also the most noble. It is human emotion, captured, crystallised, encased… and then passed on to others." - By Ken Ishiwata

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thank you all for broadening my horizon!!! You had given me a lot of relevant things to consider.

Lenovo TS140(XEON E3-1225 v3 3.2GH) Win 2012 R2 4GB RAM RoonLab Audio Optimizer PPANG USB Card Larry's HDPlex-> CA DacMagic Plus -> AudioResearch DS225 Audioquest XLR -> Sonus Faber Olympica 2 Kimber Speaker Wire->(Main)RPi2 -> RoonBridge -> Onkyo TX-NR609 -> 7.1 In Wall Polk Audio SVS Sub (Home Theatre)

Allo Digione Signature -> HK Signature 2.0 -> Carver THX Amp -> NHT Zero + SVS SB-1000 (LivingRoom)

 

 

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Try replacing your wall socket with a high quality Hubbell receptacle before buying an expensive cable.

I think I might just start with this.

Lenovo TS140(XEON E3-1225 v3 3.2GH) Win 2012 R2 4GB RAM RoonLab Audio Optimizer PPANG USB Card Larry's HDPlex-> CA DacMagic Plus -> AudioResearch DS225 Audioquest XLR -> Sonus Faber Olympica 2 Kimber Speaker Wire->(Main)RPi2 -> RoonBridge -> Onkyo TX-NR609 -> 7.1 In Wall Polk Audio SVS Sub (Home Theatre)

Allo Digione Signature -> HK Signature 2.0 -> Carver THX Amp -> NHT Zero + SVS SB-1000 (LivingRoom)

 

 

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I think I might just start with this.

 

But then what do you do about the hundreds of feet of cable/wire behind the receptacle and the walls?, .....all sharing a common earth ground and neutral bus. So florescent ballasts, mini power supplies, heating and ac motors.....all contributing to polluting your AC mains. Please consider the possibility that all of this audiophile power cable stuff is unfounded speculation first. I'd consider a power conditioner instead.

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But then what do you do about the hundreds of feet of cable/wire behind the receptacle and the walls?, .....all sharing a common earth ground and neutral bus. So florescent ballasts, mini power supplies, heating and ac motors.....all contributing to polluting your AC mains. Please consider the possibility that all of this audiophile power cable stuff is unfounded speculation first. I'd consider a power conditioner instead.

I might be good then. I use a Panamax.

Lenovo TS140(XEON E3-1225 v3 3.2GH) Win 2012 R2 4GB RAM RoonLab Audio Optimizer PPANG USB Card Larry's HDPlex-> CA DacMagic Plus -> AudioResearch DS225 Audioquest XLR -> Sonus Faber Olympica 2 Kimber Speaker Wire->(Main)RPi2 -> RoonBridge -> Onkyo TX-NR609 -> 7.1 In Wall Polk Audio SVS Sub (Home Theatre)

Allo Digione Signature -> HK Signature 2.0 -> Carver THX Amp -> NHT Zero + SVS SB-1000 (LivingRoom)

 

 

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But then what do you do about the hundreds of feet of cable/wire behind the receptacle and the walls?, .....all sharing a common earth ground and neutral bus. So florescent ballasts, mini power supplies, heating and ac motors.....all contributing to polluting your AC mains. Please consider the possibility that all of this audiophile power cable stuff is unfounded speculation first. I'd consider a power conditioner instead.

 

*1

The reason I suggested the receptacle is that if that doesn't change the sound, it is highly unlikely a power cable will do anything. As a benefit the new receptacle will provide a nice secure grip for the power cord. Purely a mechanical advantage.

 

Power conditioners are good in some very extreme cases, but they make a heck of a lot more sense for piece of mind than power cables do.

 

Finally, UPS's with battery back up are absolutely essential for NAS (or any hard drives).

 

"The function of music is to release us from the tyranny of conscious thought", Sir Thomas Beecham. 

 

 

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Hi:

I am looking at replacing the stock cable for my switching PSU and was looking at the some of the power cord cable:

 

Hi End Furukawa Audio Power Cable Cord 1M 3ft | eBay

 

If that's the right use or you would use it for something else.

 

Ahmed

 

 

No! might as well take that (not inconsiderable) wad of cash and flush it down the toilet.

 

Peter Aczel said it best in the Audiophile Critic:

 

"The biggest and stupidest lie of them all on the subject of "clean" power is that you need a specially designed, high-priced line cord to obtain the best possible sound. Any line cord rated to handle domestic ac voltages and currents will perform like any other. Ultra-high-end line cords are a fraud. Your audio circuits don't know, and don'tcare, what's on the AC side of the power transformer. All they're interested in is the dc voltages they need. Think about it. Does your car care about the hose you filled the tank with?"

George

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Apparently there is an interaction between the type of power cord and the power transformer.

IIRC, John Swenson stated that the chosen values of his snubber components on the secondary side of the transformer, (before the rectifier diodes) results in far less variance of SQ due to the use of different power cords. Transformer resonances come into play here IIRC.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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Beside the improvement in SQ and the cost of the materials used in a 45 bucks power cable, which only can be assembled by hand, I wonder about who would build that cable for almost no money / profit? I forgot to mention, that ebay gets another 9 percent of the 45€/$

 

My own power cables are built by myself (with Oyaide plugs) and I really know how much work it is, and what tools you need to have it properly done.

 

Conclusion: I would tend to a second hand cable, if I'd want to keep the cost down.

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(grin) When I advised no, I was doing so more because that looks like yet another Chinese ebay scam. The only was to convince anyone about power cords, pro or con, is for them to listen to a few. Thus the less expensive Pangea cord, which can also be returned.

 

Those who mock the idea of power cords making a difference are doing folks a disservice, unless they are reporting their own experience. And why open the conversation to descent by those whose only purpose is to mock?

Anyone who considers protocol unimportant has never dealt with a cat DAC.

Robert A. Heinlein

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Those who mock the idea of power cords making a difference are doing folks a disservice, unless they are reporting their own experience. And why open the conversation to descent by those whose only purpose is to mock?

 

I tried a couple of "audiophile" power cords (~$150) on my power amp and could not hear a difference. I sold them, went back to generic Tripp Lite 14AWG SJT cords (~$10 from Amazon), which sound exactly the same. So, while YMMV, my opinion is based on my own experience. I'm not interested in mocking anyone, just trying to save someone else the price of an education.

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No, I would pass on those. Fake alarm.

 

Quality termination is important and the outlet comments I agree with too. This is more to do with avoiding those tiny little sparks when there is not a tight fit. But those Hubbell hospital grade ones are cheap.

 

For me shielding is important too as I do not want the EMI field of the power cord to interfere with audio / video signal cables. I use a simple Tri-Field EMI meter to check. Around $100-150 is about max I would spend for quality, which still seems pricy. But get one from a reputable dealer, or roll your own if interested.

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