The true experimental tweak thread

[Cornan]

2 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 I was simply stating that there is a small downside to keeping the Input-Output differential as low as possible, as many (including yourself ?) like to do, perhaps due mainly to inadequate heat sinking . 

IME I would agree with  what @tapatrick wrote. Keeping the LT3045 as close to the specs as possible sounds better to these ears.

[sandyk]

3 minutes ago, Cornan said:

IME I would agree with  what @tapatrick wrote. Keeping the LT3045 as close to the specs as possible sounds better to these ears.

 Perhaps it does, but have you measured it's output voltage from switch on to see if it's output increases slowly until eventually stabilising ? Items such as Clocks need highly stable PSUs for best performance.

I would be interested to see how the LT3045 performs in this respect as I would like to try the LM78xx pin out version of the LT3045 supplying +3.3V to the Input section of my DIY DAC instead of the Paul Hynes version..

 

 I prefer equipment that sounds at it's best within seconds of switch on, and doesn't slowly drift into the "sweet spot" as many  do , some even leaving devices powered up 24/7. 

[mozes]

I like this thread as I can share anything I want  

 

On the grounding of the negative output of PSUs It is important to realize that not all grounding solutions are equal.

 

When I tried grounding the negative outout of my LPS-1s, I wasn’t sure I detected any imporvement. I was grounding it to the safety ground in the receptacle using a pure silver wire.Then it occured to me that I should try grounding it to my Entreq silver minimus box, and what a big difference!

It was magical, the emotions in the music were lit in a way that made listening such a delightful experience. I then tried grounding the negative output of the sps-500 that feeds my server and again, great results. Smoother, darker and more 3D presentation. I mentioned it before, but boxes in my system will come and go, but Entreq is here to stay!

[Cornan]

4 hours ago, mozes said:

I like this thread as I can share anything I want  

 

On the grounding of the negative output of PSUs It is important to realize that not all grounding solutions are equal.

 

When I tried grounding the negative outout of my LPS-1s, I wasn’t sure I detected any imporvement. I was grounding it to the safety ground in the receptacle using a pure silver wire.Then it occured to me that I should try grounding it to my Entreq silver minimus box, and what a big difference!

It was magical, the emotions in the music were lit in a way that made listening such a delightful experience. I then tried grounding the negative output of the sps-500 that feeds my server and again, great results. Smoother, darker and more 3D presentation. I mentioned it before, but boxes in my system will come and go, but Entreq is here to stay!

 

That is how I see it as well. My Entreq Minimus basic will never leave my setup. I will get the silver version later, but the basic copper will still stay.

[Cornan]

6 hours ago, sandyk said:

 Perhaps it does, but have you measured it's output voltage from switch on to see if it's output increases slowly until eventually stabilising ? Items such as Clocks need highly stable PSUs for best performance.

I would be interested to see how the LT3045 performs in this respect as I would like to try the LM78xx pin out version of the LT3045 supplying +3.3V to the Input section of my DIY DAC instead of the Paul Hynes version..

 

 I prefer equipment that sounds at it's best within seconds of switch on, and doesn't slowly drift into the "sweet spot" as many  do , some even leaving devices powered up 24/7. 

 

No, I have'nt measured the output voltage inside the switch if that what you mean? I have measured output voltage from the LT3045s though (all of them) and they have all been very stabile. On the other hand my measuring tools are not that sensitive.

 

I have'nt notice much of a drift towards a sweet spot in my setup, except with the Stammheim single ps that still seems to burn-in. I always turn off/stand-by my main devices. The power supplies, AVRs, ITs and DC blockers are always on though.

 

Please report back if you get to try the LM78xx pin out version. Looks like an interesting battle! ?

 

 

[sandyk]

30 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

No, I have'nt measured the output voltage inside the switch if that what you mean? I have measured output voltage from the LT3045s though (all of them) and they have all been very stabile. On the other hand my measuring tools are not that sensitive.

 

I have'nt notice much of a drift towards a sweet spot in my setup, except with the Stammheim single ps that still seems to burn-in. I always turn off/stand-by my main devices. The power supplies, AVRs, ITs and DC blockers are always on though.

 

Please report back if you get to try the LM78xx pin out version. Looks like an interesting battle! ?

 

 

 

Although the output voltage from the PH 3.3V series regulator is very stable, it doesn't have as high an input voltage as it really needs.

I ordered the LM78xx pin out .5A LT3045 earlier today.

 It won't need to work hard though, as it's input voltage comes via a highly stable +5V JLH PSU add-on with around 4uV noise.

I will fit a small heat sink to it too. My DMM has a reasonably good sensitivity. It's currently measuring +8.95V from a +12v (or higher) to +9V JLH PSU add-on (1.5A max. continuous) that I am working on for use mainly with a 12V Li Ion 15,000mAH battery.

[Cornan]

On 2018-01-17 at 2:57 AM, mozes said:

A free and effortless tweak

 

I usually leave my system always on. Needless to say it sounds wonderful. 2 days ago I decided to switch off everything for a full day. I switched on today and gave it a couple of hours and then listened to some of my favourite  tracks. I was stunned with pristine sound that I have never heard before in my system. The clarity and dynamics are off the roof. 

Could be static build up? I am not sure, but if you are like me with a system that is on 24hrs, try this trick.

 

 

 

BTW. Have you seen the new Entreq Olympus Ten? http://www.entreq.com/products/ground-boxes-17667704

There is Entreq´s own take on it: 

 

Quote

We at Entreq are extremely proud to ten years after our introduction of Tellus, release Olympus Ten. This little groundbox really state that “old is the oldest”  

Olympus Ten are the result of more than ten years of experience from groundboxes and the result is stunning. The leap in performance compared with Silver Minimus is tremendous. Of cource the bigger brothers Olympus Mini and Olympus Tellus have more solid effect, but we hardly believe you ever will find any other box in this size that give you so high performance for so reasonable price. 

Olympus Ten is the smallest box in the Olympus line. We think it will be a pattern for many years when it comes to size, performance and price.


Weight 2,5 Kg  W 17cm - H 8cm - D 19cm

 

Not cheap. It is roughly double the price to Silver Minimus, but it surely looks like an interesting one for me when I finally decide to pull the plug on another one!  

[[email protected]]

Just want to share some ideas about Raspberry Pi housing

 

I like to see nicely designed PCBs, some of them can be treated as a piece of art, at the same time many perfectly functional and expensive products are aesthetically unappealing.

 

Seems i found simple solution for my Raspberry Pi with Mezzanine Power Board and Piano DAC, but can be used for any PI with OR without HAT boards installed

 

I made a design for aluminium panels (3mm thickness, black brushed anodized  aluminum), size is 60x90mm, just a few mm bigger than the original PI PCB, 4 mounting holes (countersinked), no side walls, planning to offer with PiPower board. Would appreciate any feedback 

 

 

 

 

[[email protected]]

Just want to share some ideas about Raspberry Pi housing

 

I like to see nicely designed PCBs, some of them can be treated as a piece of art, at the same time many perfectly functional and expensive products are aesthetically unappealing.

 

Seems i found simple solution for my Raspberry Pi with Mezzanine Power Board and Piano DAC, but can be used for any PI with OR without HAT boards installed

 

I made a design for aluminium panels (3mm thickness, black brushed anodized  aluminum), size is 60x90mm, just a few mm bigger than the original PI PCB, 4 mounting holes (countersinked), no side walls, planning to offer with PiPower board. Would appreciate any feedback 

 

 

 

 

[Cornan]

1 minute ago, [email protected] said:

Just want to share some ideas about Raspberry Pi housing

 

I like to see nicely designed PCBs, some of them can be treated as a piece of art, at the same time many perfectly functional and expensive products are aesthetically unappealing.

 

Seems i found simple solution for my Raspberry Pi with Mezzanine Power Board and Piano DAC, but can be used for any PI with OR without HAT boards installed

 

I made a design for aluminium panels (3mm thickness, black brushed anodized  aluminum), size is 60x90mm, just a few mm bigger than the original PI PCB, 4 mounting holes (countersinked), no side walls, planning to offer with PiPower board. Would appreciate any feedback 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice Alexey! Looks both beautiful and practical. Mighe be considering to get a Pi3 to use as a BubbleServer and this housing would work just great. No need to hide it!  

[steklo]

On 17.1.2018 at 4:13 PM, [email protected] said:

You can configure C1/2 to power PI also, BUT 1A is a current limit. From my experience it is enough to power PI2 even with USB Wifi dongle and USB memory stick (using Volumio OS), but need to do more tests with PI3. 

 

Modules D/E can be used to feed PI with 3.3/1.8V with DCDC switch removed (to simplify this solution http://www.runeaudio.com/forum/3x-powersupply-for-rpi-t4141-50.html).

 

Actually - only one wire need to be soldered (1.8V), 3.3V Net can be connected from GPIO.  

Hi Alexey,

 

thanks for your help! Please report back if option C2 is enough to run the RPi3 (without Wifi and no USB device attached).

 

As for 3.3V over GPIO – is there something specifically to be done to configure it that way or will this work out of the box when your board is attached to the Pi?

 

Best regards

Stefan

[mozes]

15 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

BTW. Have you seen the new Entreq Olympus Ten? http://www.entreq.com/products/ground-boxes-17667704

There is Entreq´s own take on it: 

 

 

Not cheap. It is roughly double the price to Silver Minimus, but it surely looks like an interesting one for me when I finally decide to pull the plug on another one!  

Thanks I have seen it.  Very interesting, from my experience you can’t beat the value of the silver minimus with everest plug. I compared that to the Olympus minimus. Very close

[Cornan]

Finally I got the time for my planned experiment with Stammheim's (Michael's) two single 3A LT3045 ps in series.

 

I got right to it as soon as I got the chance and tested out the I/O voltages carefully.

 

 

I also cut out some ESD foam to put in-between Gophert csp-3205II and the two single ps.

 

 

looks quite nice actually! I love the looks of Michael's single ps! ?

 

 

Good to go. I put it pre the Brooklyn DAC and had a listen on both Gibson LP 8 monitors and Fostex TH900 headphones. Don't mind the mess BTW! ?

 

 

Instant improvement on both speakers and headphones! The first thing that strikes me is the similarity to what my balanced & floating IT brought to SQ. MUSIC GLOW, PRESENCE & A REALITY CHECK! A lot of it! ? The music sounds more real like some things is happening outside my little sound landscape. Both on speakers and headphones. I suddenly

get a feeling that certain sounds is not a part of the music even if I recognize them clearly from before. It is a part of the music but just sound a bit too real to be a part of it. I find that I have to turn the music down to have a reality check! ?

Guitars, voices and background music is really glowing. Those voices feels very much alive & kicking and share my listening room. I cannot stop myself. Me and Vancouver Sleep Clinic is singing very loud together. Luckily I am all alone! ?

 

Still I can clearly hear that the combo will need further burn-in. Expecting this thing to be on fire when that's done! ?

 

Now, my plans for a PSU will most definately include two single ps and a transformer. It is time to get this plan into action. First thing is to move to New apartment. Second thing will be to order parts for my coming DIY PSU! ?

 

 

 

[mourip]

46 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Finally I got the time for my planned experiment with Stammheim's (Michael's) two single 3A LT3045 ps in series.

 

 

looks quite nice actually! I love the looks of Michael's single ps! ?

 

 

 

Do you mind me asking how much his single 3A LT3045 ps sells for?

[Cornan]

12 minutes ago, mourip said:

 

Do you mind me asking how much his single 3A LT3045 ps sells for?

 

Of course not! They are € 138 per board excl freight.

 

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/vendor-s-bazaar/310402-fs-ultra-low-noise-power-supply-lt3045-based-pcb-2.html#post5227003

[Cornan]

Here is an interesting thing that have taken me by surprise since I put the two single ps in series. I power my BluWave USB to Spdif converters galvanicly isolated output with a TP Link Vivid battery supply at the moment. Earlier, even with a single ps, it sounded better without the battery charging at the same time as playing music. It sounded airier without it. Now, with two single ps in series, it actually sounds BETTER with the charger connected. It could be a proof that the DC path is passing less noise and that the charger actually provides additional grounding. This makes me curious to try to ground the TP Link Vivid USB micro input to my Entreq Minimus grounding box. I like to follow leads like this! ?

[Cornan]

I wanted to quickly follow my lead with the TP Link (above) before getting myself ready for the concert with Iron & Wine tonight.

It got a bit complicated to fit than I first thought due to space, so it ended up like this. Temporary, but works as you can see.

 

 

No doubt! This works wonder and the sound improves in the same way as a JSGT (DC- output grounding) that opens up the sound and Entreq Minimus that puts it on steroids! Awesome just got better! ?

 

Iron & Wine will not wait for me. I better get myself ready since I am also meeting a good friend (with great music taste) for a couple of beers before the concert. I feel blessed with joy today! ?

 

 

[mozes]

1 hour ago, Cornan said:

Here is an interesting thing that have taken me by surprise since I put the two single ps in series. I power my BluWave USB to Spdif converters galvanicly isolated output with a TP Link Vivid battery supply at the moment. Earlier, even with a single ps, it sounded better without the battery charging at the same time as playing music. It sounded airier without it. Now, with two single ps in series, it actually sounds BETTER with the charger connected. It could be a proof that the DC path is passing less noise and that the charger actually provides additional grounding. This makes me curious to try to ground the TP Link Vivid USB micro input to my Entreq Minimus grounding box. I like to follow leads like this! ?

Good thinking! I power my wireless bridge with a 12V lithium battery which then connects to a sCLK modded switch powered by LPS-1. Whether charger is connected or not, it makes no difference to SQ.

[Cornan]

6 hours ago, mozes said:

Good thinking! I power my wireless bridge with a 12V lithium battery which then connects to a sCLK modded switch powered by LPS-1. Whether charger is connected or not, it makes no difference to SQ.

Thanks Moussa! However, I think you'll need to understand the whole story to judge it. The BluWave INPUT is powered by ISO Regen powered by LT3045 in series.  Very clean! It is just the GI output that is powered by the TP Link Vivid. Now, that input is surely the weakest link in my setup if any. I have a Y-split from my Gophert waiting for it, but as you know I am waiting for a reply from @JohnSwenson if a LT3045 at the input and two LT3045s single at each leg will improve things or not? I am just waiting for a confirmation before I pull the plug. Expecting it to be better than battery supply, but want to ensure it before I'll try! ?

[mozes]

5 hours ago, Cornan said:

Thanks Moussa! However, I think you'll need to understand the whole story to judge it. The BluWave INPUT is powered by ISO Regen powered by LT3045 in series.  Very clean! It is just the GI output that is powered by the TP Link Vivid. Now, that input is surely the weakest link in my setup if any. I have a Y-split from my Gophert waiting for it, but as you know I am waiting for a reply from @JohnSwenson if a LT3045 at the input and two LT3045s single at each leg will improve things or not? I am just waiting for a confirmation before I pull the plug. Expecting it to be better than battery supply, but want to ensure it before I'll try! ?

I fully understand that each system is different. I just wanted to share that in my system I hear no difference. I should have elaborated that my message is that you should always test anything in your system as the results could be different depending on gear and system toplogy

[Cornan]

16 hours ago, mozes said:

I fully understand that each system is different. I just wanted to share that in my system I hear no difference. I should have elaborated that my message is that you should always test anything in your system as the results could be different depending on gear and system toplogy

 

No problem Moussa! I know you are aware of these things! ? I just wanted to explain that in my perticular case the TP Link Vivid is powering the GI output which is the last powered source next to my Brooklyn DAC. Therefore it is much more important to get clean power there than for example a wireless bridge which is usually not in direct contact with the DAC. I am pretty sure that a change for a less noisy power solution than battery at BluWave GI output will improve SQ further, but that will have to wait until after my move in February. 

[mozes]

37 minutes ago, Cornan said:

Therefore it is much more important to get clean power there than for example a wireless bridge which is usually not in direct contact with the DAC.

Agree ? 

[gstew]

On 1/16/2018 at 12:31 PM, tapatrick said:

Awesome Greg! Thanks for the info, lots to digest... and consider.



Would the Audi-gd HDMI card work to get I2S out of Kali? I have it after my WavIO board into my PS Junior with a hard HDMI adapter so it’s close to the DAC input. Works good. 

Tapatrick,

Sorry, I just saw I forgot to answer this. Yes, it should work just fine for that. 

In addition to the Kali, consider an isolator card too. The combo work very well together & the sum is definitely greater. If you can only do one, the Kali is by far the right choice. But both together is better. 

BTW, I have 2 of Alexey's RPi power cards ordered. They neatly solve the packaging of a separately-powered RPi that I hadn't found time to grapple with yet.

Now to get my current DAC builds done before they arrive. 

Greg in Mississippi

[tapatrick]

9 hours ago, gstew said:

In addition to the Kali, consider an isolator card too. The combo work very well together & the sum is definitely greater. If you can only do one, the Kali is by far the right choice. But both together is better. 

BTW, I have 2 of Alexey's RPi power cards ordered. They neatly solve the packaging of a separately-powered RPi that I hadn't found time to grapple with yet.

Now to get my current DAC builds done before they arrive. 

Greg in Mississippi

 

 

 

Cool, thanks Greg

I was just looking at the isolator board last night thinking that might be a good addition but it wasn't clear on the Allo site if/how it fits with the Kali.

 

Does it come before or after the Kali?

Will definitely add it now. I am researching which bits to get which I will do this week and will look at Alexy's power cards too. They look the biz..

 

I need to decide on whether I get a Sparky or a RPi. I noticed that the Sparky board has the ethernet separated from the USB where as on the RPi, the usb and ethernet are all on the same circuit which is one of the Raspberrys limitations and source of noise.

 

Do you have any thoughts on this or does the Kali and isolator deal with this anyway? 

[Cornan]

On 2018-01-20 at 1:50 PM, Cornan said:

Now, my plans for a PSU will most definately include two single ps and a transformer. It is time to get this plan into action. First thing is to move to New apartment. Second thing will be to order parts for my coming DIY PSU! ?

 

I think I have the plan almost set for a DIY LPSU for my Brooklyn DAC. Since VAC input translates to x 1,1414 to VDC output on the single ps this class II double isolated safety transformer will probably be sufficient to power both my single ps in series (=13.6968 VDC).

 

https://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/710340/Safety-transformer-1-x-230-V-1-x-12-Vac-55-VA-458-A?ref=list

 

 

I have found a suitable case as well https://www.ebay.com/itm/R2107-aluminum-amplifier-chassis-Power-supply-enclosure-211-70-211mm-BOX/322079916251?hash=item4afd7580db:g:V9sAAOSw1DtXFaWq

 

 

I just have to ensure that 13.6-13.7 VDC>13 VDC with the single ps in series will have a stabile 12 VDC output before I order it plus Furutech IEC and internal wires (and perhaps a audio fuse for the safety transformer). 

 

I might go for this shielded silver plated OFC 4N copper cable for the internal wiring. An interesting cable that should be fairly easy to make a JSSG per wire with (ie. not connect the shield to the plugs)  https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/hook-up-wires/shielded-wiring-cable-silver-plated-ofc-4n-copper-05mm-o23mm-p-12441.html

 

 

Great to have plans!