A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

[lmitche]

2 hours ago, jean-michel6 said:

Hi Thank's for the info on this Gotham cable which seems quite nicely built . It seems it can use and can replace the canary 4s6 .

Were are you using the gotham cable in your system ? Have you found it to be better than the canare ( with jssg360 ) ?

 

Which kind of mesh screen are you using to build your jssg360 cables ?

 

The gotham use the excellent reussen screen which insure 100% coverage .

Tinned copper sleeving is used for USB and networks cables. Gotham for DC cables. Yes Gotham sounds better then Canare.

[lmitche]

1 hour ago, luisma said:

So not only creating a JS loop with shields 1 and 2 but also adding to the loop the individual shielding for each wire? so a loop of shield 1+2 +4 more shields for each wire? all connected together ?

Yes all the copper shielding connected at the two ends but take to avoid the conductors under the DC barrel plug.

[auricgoldfinger]

13 minutes ago, lmitche said:

Tinned copper sleeving is used for USB and networks cables. Gotham for DC cables. Yes Gotham sounds better then Canare.

 

Would there be a way to apply this technique to the SOtM dCBL-UF cable or does the filter block make it impractical?

 

[luisma]

1 hour ago, lmitche said:

Yes all the copper shielding connected at the two ends but take to avoid the conductors under the DC barrel plug.

and I'm assuming if we use Supra CAT8 for Network and also for DC cables we lay down a tin copper sleeve outside and create the loop joining the added braided sleeve and the supra shielding. Will it represent also any benefits joining in this loop each individual pair wrapping? possibly not as conductivity may not be good

[Kritpoon]

20 hours ago, lmitche said:

Hi all,

 

In the true spirit of this thread, I'd like to introduce you to JSSG 360.  Thinking about John Swensons JSSG cable tweak, a layer of tinned copper shielding with the ends connected with a drain wire, it occurred to me that instead of the drain wire, a layer of insulation followed by another layer of tinned copper would likely to be better. With the two layers of tinned copper attached at the end points, the SQ impact is much greater then the current, and brilliant, JSSG tweak. This tweak works on DC cabling, network cabling and USB cables.

 

Having recently treated one of Rajiv's Lush cables with JSSG 360, he can vouch for the SQ impact.

 

I am quite excited to have found the Gotham Audio USA Gac4/1 ultra pro cable which has JSSG 360 built-in. Once again, just connect the inner and outer shielding at the endpoints and you have JSSG 360 SQ.

 

Unfortunately, I can't explain why JSSG 360 sounds so good. But I've been treating my cables this way since last fall and it seems to work without fail on any cable.

 

Enjoy JSSG 360.  You will be amazed at the new life you will get out of your existing cabling.

 

Larry

 Hi Larry,

 

Could you kindly share details how you modded the JSSG 360 shielding

for the LUSH? Thanks.

 

Alex.

[lmitche]

3 hours ago, auricgoldfinger said:

 

Would there be a way to apply this technique to the SOtM dCBL-UF cable or does the filter block make it impractical?

 

The tinned copper expands like a Chinese finger torture toy and may make it over the filter.

[lmitche]

2 hours ago, luisma said:

and I'm assuming if we use Supra CAT8 for Network and also for DC cables we lay down a tin copper sleeve outside and create the loop joining the added braided sleeve and the supra shielding. Will it represent also any benefits joining in this loop each individual pair wrapping? possibly not as conductivity may not be good

I didn't connect the tinned copper to the internal shield here, but I thought about it. You could use one layer of tinned copper that way. I took the finished tinned copper "pipe" from my older bjc cat 6a and stuffed it with the Supra cat 8. The cable matters toolless Ethernet plugs made this easy.

[lmitche]

48 minutes ago, Kritpoon said:

 Hi Larry,

 

Could you kindly share details how you modded the JSSG 360 shielding

for the LUSH? Thanks.

 

Alex.

Hi Alex, give me a few days and I will. Thanks, Larry

[Johnseye]

Looking for some opinions on putting EMI shielding adhesive on an OCXO clock.  I have placed the 3M shielding on clocks that don't have an oven but am wondering if the adhesive would raise the temp inside the oven if stuck to the outside.  The shielding is supposed to convert EMI/RF to heat.

[Superdad]

11 hours ago, lmitche said:

Look here for the gobsmacking variety of sleeving available.

https://www.electriduct.com/Braided-Sleeving.html

 

Thanks for that great resource link Larry!

--AJC

[internethandle]

21 hours ago, rafa said:

Hi guys, my friend replaced crystal oscillator motherboard with NewClassD NeutronStar. Is extremally happy with sound effect. Especially the soundstage is bigger, more clear and precision. The system is stable.

 

But integrated graphics card (Intel CPU) seems to don't like new clock. Time to time screen get black or flashing on the bottom (it is not a monitor problem). When screen is off music still plays as normal, so that's why it looks like system is still stable.

Interesting that simple switching lights on in the room may destabilize graphics card.

The NeutronStar is powered by NewClassD PSU supplied with a clock. Clock voltage is setup to 3.3V

 

Any ideas what can make those problems?

 

Unfortunately I don't have a solution for you, but this same issue occurs with my Paul Pang TCXO-modded ASUS motherboard with Intel graphics from time to time. It does seem to stabilize over time and happen less and less frequently, but I have not found any reliable way of either provoking it into happening or getting it to stop other than waiting it out. My suggestion, then, would be to keep the PC on 24/7 and see if the problem eventually either lessens or stops. Restarting the computer or doing some other major system change (re-installing Windows, for instance) always seemed to make it happen with the highest amount of frequency, which was very annoying, but after leaving my audio PC on 24/7 for a number days it (usually) would stop happening. Still, every once in awhile it will re-appear without warning for a few days (less frequent drop outs than if I did a system change of some sort, but still there and annoying), and I again just have to wait it out until it stabilizes again.

[Bricki]

G'day @lmitche

 

What did you use for insulation between the two layers of braided copper when you did jssg 360 on the Lush cable... I am thinking of trying it on my curious cable - my diy skills are a bit lame and limited though ?. Is electrical tape good enough? 

 

Also if you have any pics of how you joined the two braided layers together that would help people like me understand what you did that would be an enormous help... I'm a bit of a noob if you can't tell ?

[RickyV]

23 hours ago, rafa said:

Hi guys, my friend replaced crystal oscillator motherboard with NewClassD NeutronStar. Is extremally happy with sound effect. Especially the soundstage is bigger, more clear and precision. The system is stable.

 

But integrated graphics card (Intel CPU) seems to don't like new clock. Time to time screen get black or flashing on the bottom (it is not a monitor problem). When screen is off music still plays as normal, so that's why it looks like system is still stable.

Interesting that simple switching lights on in the room may destabilize graphics card.

The NeutronStar is powered by NewClassD PSU supplied with a clock. Clock voltage is setup to 3.3V

 

Any ideas what can make those problems?

 

The only thing I can think of is, did you use a good ground for the clock signal cable. So a neer by groundplane that measures 0 ohm with mobo mounting screw. 

 

"Interesting that simple switching lights on in the room may destabilize graphics card." If the room light switch has influence on the graphics card I think you may have an ground problem with computer, audio and maybe tv (antenna).

[RickyV]

It also maybe smart to put some shielding on the clocks pcb's and power supply. Computers are noisy emi.

 

What frequentie is the neutron star?

[lmitche]

2 hours ago, Bricki said:

G'day @lmitche

 

What did you use for insulation between the two layers of braided copper when you did jssg 360 on the Lush cable... I am thinking of trying it on my curious cable - my diy skills are a bit lame and limited though ?. Is electrical tape good enough? 

 

Also if you have any pics of how you joined the two braided layers together that would help people like me understand what you did that would be an enormous help... I'm a bit of a noob if you can't tell ?

Hi Bricki,

 

For some cables I have used clear shrink wrap for insulation, on others shrink wrap + a layer of techflex for more distance between layers.  The Lush cable is a stiff cable to start, and adding the three to four more layers of stuff makes it much worse. The techflex makes things a bit looser in a good way.

 

At the ends I have just let run the insulation short by about 3/8 of an inch so the two layers of tinned copper naturally join under the pressure of one last short, 3 inch,  layer of shrinkwrap on top.

 

Sorry, but pictures will have to wait as I am not at home.

 

Larry

[rafa]

2 hours ago, RickyV said:

It also maybe smart to put some shielding on the clocks pcb's and power supply. Computers are noisy emi.

 

What frequentie is the neutron star?

It is 24MHz

 

Thank you RickyV! 

[luisma]

10 hours ago, Johnseye said:

Looking for some opinions on putting EMI shielding adhesive on an OCXO clock.  I have placed the 3M shielding on clocks that don't have an oven but am wondering if the adhesive would raise the temp inside the oven if stuck to the outside.  The shielding is supposed to convert EMI/RF to heat.

Hello, do we know which EMI are we trying or interested on blocking ? maybe someone can provide details on which range of frequencies we don't want induced on these cables? in this case I will think  10 MHZ? I have used this tape before and I was amazed to see how no blocking at all it provides for 812 MHZ,, maybe works better at 10 MHZ

[luisma]

Just purchased the exact copper foil at Amazon and will try to measure RFI with the spectrum analyzer for my equipment, will share videos if possible with this forum ...

[Johnseye]

1 hour ago, luisma said:

Hello, do we know which EMI are we trying or interested on blocking ? maybe someone can provide details on which range of frequencies we don't want induced on these cables? in this case I will think  10 MHZ? I have used this tape before and I was amazed to see how no blocking at all it provides for 812 MHZ,, maybe works better at 10 MHZ

 

Here's the info on the adhesive absorber.  I use the 1mil AB5100SHF.

 

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/960653O/3mtm-emi-absorber-ab5000shf-series-halogen-free.pdf

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3m/AB5100SHF-210X297/3M155949-ND/5823559

 

[luisma]

Thank you for the info, I will try to do some testing, the attenuation sweet spot around 2 ghz, will do some research as of which EMI will be desirable to block, in the case of the clock I think 10 MHZ will be ideal and for that specific frequency the chart provided does block anything. Now I am not an expert or an EE, for sending the 10 mhz  clock signal is that the actual signal frequency or is it modulated along a higher frequency? if anyone can provide clarification on this?

[Johnseye]

15 hours ago, Johnseye said:

Looking for some opinions on putting EMI shielding adhesive on an OCXO clock.  I have placed the 3M shielding on clocks that don't have an oven but am wondering if the adhesive would raise the temp inside the oven if stuck to the outside.  The shielding is supposed to convert EMI/RF to heat.

 

3 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

Here's the info on the adhesive absorber.  I use the 1mil AB5100SHF.

 

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/960653O/3mtm-emi-absorber-ab5000shf-series-halogen-free.pdf

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3m/AB5100SHF-210X297/3M155949-ND/5823559

 

 

56 minutes ago, luisma said:

Thank you for the info, I will try to do some testing, the attenuation sweet spot around 2 ghz, will do some research as of which EMI will be desirable to block, in the case of the clock I think 10 MHZ will be ideal and for that specific frequency the chart provided does block anything. Now I am not an expert or an EE, for sending the 10 mhz  clock signal is that the actual signal frequency or is it modulated along a higher frequency? if anyone can provide clarification on this?

 

@marce what's your professional opinion?

[BigGuy]

On 5/29/2018 at 10:53 PM, lmitche said:

Nope, it's this one:

 

http://gothamcables.com/en/gothamcables/starquad/11301gac41ultrapro

 

 

 

Two layers of shielding separated by a thin insulation layer.

Sorry to be a party pooper...

 

Visited the Gotham website and expanded the drawing shown above so that I could better read the captions for the various layers of construction.  Shields 3 and 4 are described as " Polyester nonwoven thermally bonded,
both sides aluminium coated" which would be conductive.  So...this cable has 5 shields, none of which are insulated from each other.

 

I confirmed this to be the case in a phone conversation with Lewis Frisch, owner of Gotham Audio USA in Pennsylvania.

 

A JSSG could be constructed with any number of these shields but would still require a ground wire or another shield as described for JSSG 360.

[lmitche]

1 hour ago, BigGuy said:

Sorry to be a party pooper...

 

Visited the Gotham website and expanded the drawing shown above so that I could better read the captions for the various layers of construction.  Shields 3 and 4 are described as " Polyester nonwoven thermally bonded,
both sides aluminium coated" which would be conductive.  So...this cable has 5 shields, none of which are insulated from each other.

 

I confirmed this to be the case in a phone conversation with Lewis Frisch, owner of Gotham Audio USA in Pennsylvania.

 

A JSSG could be constructed with any number of these shields but would still require a ground wire or another shield as described for JSSG 360.

Hi Frank,

 

Well my Multimeter says otherwise so I'd recommend you get a piece from Lewis and check it out yourself.

 

Also, our mutual friend has a 2 foot piece of this same cable powering an Iso Regen at his place.

 

Larry

 

 

[RickyV]

7 hours ago, lmitche said:

Hi Bricki,

 

For some cables I have used clear shrink wrap for insulation, on others shrink wrap + a layer of techflex for more distance between layers.  The Lush cable is a stiff cable to start, and adding the three to four more layers of stuff makes it much worse. The techflex makes things a bit looser in a good way.

 

At the ends I have just let run the insulation short by about 3/8 of an inch so the two layers of tinned copper naturally join under the pressure of one last short, 3 inch,  layer of shrinkwrap on top.

 

Sorry, but pictures will have to wait as I am not at home.

 

Larry

 

Hi Larry,

The reason why i do not use shrinkwrap is that it shrinks around the cable but only applies a little pressure on the cable, so bad contact. For spacing is a good idea

That is why i use the linen tape used in the automotive industry for wiring harnesses.

Maybe a combination of the two, first pressure then spacing.

[lmitche]

36 minutes ago, RickyV said:

 

Hi Larry,

The reason why i do not use shrinkwrap is that it shrinks around the cable but only applies a little pressure on the cable, so bad contact. For spacing is a good idea

That is why i use the linen tape used in the automotive industry for wiring harnesses.

Maybe a combination of the two, first pressure then spacing.

RickyV,

 

I'm sure there are many ways to improve my approach. Thanks for any insights.

 

Lsrry