A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

[Johnseye]

17 minutes ago, Speedskater said:

If you are daisy chaining dual receptacles that would be true. But if you are using a pig-tail system (from a large feeder), then each dual receptacle gets it's own pig-tails.

 

Considering the emphasis on wire gauge is there any degradation by using pigtails, stepping down the gauge with an adapter, using spades, or going through a jumpered isolation transformer? 

[Ralf11]

15 hours ago, KingRex said:

... I have developed a belief that power conditioning is best not used, unless absolutly necessary.  I need it.  I have dirty power at my house.  

 

...

 

You were following my thread on having the electric co. come out and test my house's electricity...

 

They can only test up to 3 KHz so I am still wondering if I have dirty power.

 

I am also close to getting rid of all wall warts in my main system, so I am wondering what to do re isolation transformers, or balanced power supplies, etc.

 

If you know of any way to test LMK !

[WuNgUn]

1 hour ago, Johnseye said:

 

Considering the emphasis on wire gauge is there any degradation by using pigtails, stepping down the gauge with an adapter, using spades, or going through a jumpered isolation transformer? 

For a short run like a pigtail (6 or 8"), I'd say no... As long as you're still using 14 or 12awg.

Voltage drop would be negligible on short runs as long as you calculate your loading with respect to awg. 

 

Which brings up another question...

If youre running 8awg was it...? to the breaker panel, how are you protecting that conductor? I don't even know if that would fit in a 15 or 20a breaker. 

[Johnseye]

5 minutes ago, WuNgUn said:

For a short run like a pigtail (6 or 8"), I'd say no... As long as you're still using 14 or 12awg.

Voltage drop would be negligible on short runs as long as you calculate your loading with respect to awg. 

 

Which brings up another question...

If youre running 8awg was it...? to the breaker panel, how are you protecting that conductor? I don't even know if that would fit in a 15 or 20a breaker. 

 

I'm running 10 awg with 20amp breakers.  No issue there.  My main concern was when I'm coming off the wire with a spade whether I'm choking the current.  Also the spades aren't copper, or maybe they're tin plated copper.  A twisted pigtail gets better contact than a crimped spade.  It's probably negligible but when you go to the trouble of rewiring you don't want to do anything which would negatively impact the work. 

 

[sandyk]

2 hours ago, Ralf11 said:

 

You were following my thread on having the electric co. come out and test my house's electricity...

 

They can only test up to 3 KHz so I am still wondering if I have dirty power.

 

I am also close to getting rid of all wall warts in my main system, so I am wondering what to do re isolation transformers, or balanced power supplies, etc.

 

If you know of any way to test LMK !

 

Why do so many members seem to think they need Isolation transformers , balanced power supplies etc. ?

Is the mains artifact rejection of the gear they use so mediocre, or the mains supply so polluted by others, or perhaps due to poor quality LED lighting etc.  ?

Getting rid of all SMPS wallwarts, or at least earthing the 0 volts side of their power supply is a good first step.

[KingRex]

5 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

I'm running 10 awg with 20amp breakers.  No issue there.  My main concern was when I'm coming off the wire with a spade whether I'm choking the current.  Also the spades aren't copper, or maybe they're tin plated copper.  A twisted pigtail gets better contact than a crimped spade.  It's probably negligible but when you go to the trouble of rewiring you don't want to do anything which would negatively impact the work. 

 

Why are you using a spade.  Get rid of them. They are not helping the sound. Turn of the breaker, cut off the spade, strip the wire back about 3/4 inch and put them under the clamp. Tighten them pretty firm. Once you have them set strait and ready to screw back on the box, check the torque.   Didn't you say you have Porter Ports or Furutech.  They have a clamp, easy to do. You may have to put a twist on the ground. Not sure if you have a screw only or clamp there too.

 

I will try and post a couple pix on how to wire receptacles with pig tails or using large gauge wire. 

[Johnseye]

29 minutes ago, KingRex said:

Why are you using a spade.  Get rid of them. They are not helping the sound. Turn of the breaker, cut off the spade, strip the wire back about 3/4 inch and put them under the clamp. Tighten them pretty firm. Once you have them set strait and ready to screw back on the box, check the torque.   Didn't you say you have Porter Ports or Furutech.  They have a clamp, easy to do. You may have to put a twist on the ground. Not sure if you have a screw only or clamp there too.

 

I will try and post a couple pix on how to wire receptacles with pig tails or using large gauge wire. 

 

Thanks, will do.  The electrician used spades because the 10 gauge is solid and difficult to bend around the screws.  I'll work on them myself.

[One and a half]

5 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

Why do so many members seem to think they need Isolation transformers , balanced power supplies etc. ?

Is the mains artifact rejection of the gear they use so mediocre, or the mains supply so polluted by others, or perhaps due to poor quality LED lighting etc.  ?

Getting rid of all SMPS wallwarts, or at least earthing the 0 volts side of their power supply is a good first step.

Again. An isolation transformer's main purpose is to remove common mode noise. Does your place have an exemption certificate from common mode noise?

[One and a half]

6 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

I'm running 10 awg with 20amp breakers.  No issue there.  My main concern was when I'm coming off the wire with a spade whether I'm choking the current.  Also the spades aren't copper, or maybe they're tin plated copper.  A twisted pigtail gets better contact than a crimped spade.  It's probably negligible but when you go to the trouble of rewiring you don't want to do anything which would negatively impact the work. 

 

No, you're not choking current.  This motor's terminal box is rated at 4000A, , there are two of these on the motor. The cables are about two inches in diameter. There's no choking, indeed these are tested for continuity in milliohms.

 

[One and a half]

1 hour ago, KingRex said:

Why are you using a spade.  Get rid of them. They are not helping the sound. Turn of the breaker, cut off the spade, strip the wire back about 3/4 inch and put them under the clamp. Tighten them pretty firm. Once you have them set strait and ready to screw back on the box, check the torque.   Didn't you say you have Porter Ports or Furutech.  They have a clamp, easy to do. You may have to put a twist on the ground. Not sure if you have a screw only or clamp there too.

 

I will try and post a couple pix on how to wire receptacles with pig tails or using large gauge wire. 

Is this 'advice' for real? You'd sacrifice a gas tight joint by introducing a hot spot? SMH.

[sandyk]

1 hour ago, One and a half said:

Again. An isolation transformer's main purpose is to remove common mode noise. Does your place have an exemption certificate from common mode noise?

 

I personally only know of only one Audiophile who has felt the need for Isolation transformers etc. and he lived in a large block of apartments with lifts etc.

 It would mainly depend on where you live, with mainly suburban  areas with no nearby industrial facilities less likely to need them. Perhaps the widespread use of RF/EMI  prone USB Audio by many C.A. members, as well as the growing number of SMPS plugpacks etc. has led to their use far more than in earlier years ?

How many people needed to use A.C. isolation transformers with analogue audio , including Tape decks, high quality cassette recorders and Vinyl  ? How many need to use them with Valve amplifiers and Vinyl, even now ?

Wouldn't it be funny if it turns out that digital ,which is supposedly far more resistant to things like this, turned out to be more easily affected by this kind of problem than Analogue ?

[str-1]

With some people already prefering the current Uptone LPS-1 to the Paul Hynes SR4, and others seeing them as different flavoured power supplies of roughly equal overall merit, can we expect the just announced LPS-1.2 to be a clear winner for anything requiring <1.1A?

[mozes]

6 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

Thanks, will do.  The electrician used spades because the 10 gauge is solid and difficult to bend around the screws.  I'll work on them myself.

I use Furutech receptacles and they easily handle AWG 10 Romex. I am sure they can take AWG 8 wire as well.  They have a clamp that makes it easy to work with

[KingRex]

Johnseye, what has a spade connection?   The receptacle or the termination point in what appears to be a fused disconnect from what One And A Half is showing. I thought you were messing with a receptacle.  I would not advise getting into your panel. Way to dangerous. 

[Johnseye]

1 hour ago, KingRex said:

Johnseye, what has a spade connection?   The receptacle or the termination point in what appears to be a fused disconnect from what One And A Half is showing. I thought you were messing with a receptacle.  I would not advise getting into your panel. Way to dangerous. 

 

That wasn't my picture One and a Half was showing.  I'm referring to the receptacle and at the isolation transformer.

[austinpop]

6 hours ago, str-1 said:

With some people already prefering the current Uptone LPS-1 to the Paul Hynes SR4, and others seeing them as different flavoured power supplies of roughly equal overall merit, can we expect the just announced LPS-1.2 to be a clear winner for anything requiring <1.1A?

 

We won't know definitively until people have heard it, obviously. But it looks pretty compelling to my eyes. Add a nice DC cable, and you still come in under $500. 

 

Even if it doesn't end up head and shoulders above the other contenders like the SR-4 and the sPS-500, it's a damn good value.

 

But the key phrase is "< 1.1A."

[sig8]

Some have mentioned silver DC wire in the past. I have not been able to locate any on Amazon or eBay. I know Paul Hynes sends that as an option, but if someone knows, I would appreciate a link. Thanks.

[Ralf11]

12 hours ago, sandyk said:

I [] know of only one Audiophile who has felt the need for Isolation transformers etc. and he lived in a large block of apartments with lifts etc.

 It [may] mainly depend on where you live, [and] mainly suburban  areas with no nearby industrial facilities less likely to need them.

 

Perhaps the widespread use of RF/EMI  prone USB Audio by many C.A. members, as well as the growing number of SMPS plugpacks etc. has led to [] far [greater usage] than in earlier years ?

 

How many people needed to use AC isolation transformers with analog audio, including Tape decks, high quality cassette recorders and Vinyl  ? How many need to use them with Valve amplifiers and Vinyl, even now ?

 

[It would be ironic] if it turns out that digital, which is supposedly far more resistant to [these] things, turned out to be more easily affected by this kind of problem than Analog ?

 

very important questions; I edited out the Brit spellings and shortened some sentences for more impact...

emphasis added to highlight the usual suspects

[Cornan]

16 minutes ago, sig8 said:

Some have mentioned silver DC wire in the past. I have not been able to locate any on Amazon or eBay. I know Paul Hynes sends that as an option, but if someone knows, I would appreciate a link. Thanks.

 

Here is one https://mcru.co.uk/product/mcru-audio-grade-dc-power-cable/?v=f003c44deab6 that is also available in 1 m lenghts on eBay 
https://www.google.se/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MCRU-PURE-SILVER-DC-POWER-CABLE-OYAIDE-CONNECTORS-1-MTR-/352202417452&ved=2ahUKEwi6_beSq93YAhXMh6YKHSgYCksQjjgwAHoECBEQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1YLLSQRyUZAvSoJ6CZtuWq

[sandyk]

21 minutes ago, Ralf11 said:

 

very important questions; I edited out the Brit spellings and shortened some sentences for more impact...

emphasis added to highlight the usual suspects

 

O.K. I don't have a problem with your rewording of my reply.

[Cornan]

34 minutes ago, sig8 said:

Some have mentioned silver DC wire in the past. I have not been able to locate any on Amazon or eBay. I know Paul Hynes sends that as an option, but if someone knows, I would appreciate a link. Thanks.

 

Here is another interesting starquad cable design in pure silver http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILVERCORD-PLUS-Pure-solid-OCC-Silver-StarQuad-tonearm-cable-1m-/322359893777 

It is a tonearm cable, but I'll bet they could make a DC cable with JSSG if you ask them nicely! ?

[KingRex]

10 hours ago, Johnseye said:

 

That wasn't my picture One and a Half was showing.  I'm referring to the receptacle and at the isolation transformer.

Then cut the spades off.  They will impact performance.  Do you have (2) duplex receptacles in a wall box or just one.  See photo.  I want to send a picture demonstrating how I would wire them.

 

Can you pull, the face off your transformer and send a picture.  Need to see that too.  This one is hard wired with wire nuts. My other had a terminal block. I want to look at the screws.  See photo. 

[mikicasellas]

20 minutes ago, KingRex said:

Then cut the spades off.  They will impact performance.  Do you have (2) duplex receptacles in a wall box or just one.  See photo.  I want to send a picture demonstrating how I would wire them.

 

Can you pull, the face off your transformer and send a picture.  Need to see that too.  This one is hard wired with wire nuts. My other had a terminal block. I want to look at the screws.  See photo. 

 

I have the same model which looks exactly like this one you are showing,  compared to my TOPAZ- 1KVA - .001pF the latter performs cleaner quiter and less hot, it is just better, the music is more natural and organic, i purchased the 91002-32 excited for what the smaller was doing and if a 1KVA with .001 was performing so well, the 2.4 with .0005pF was supposed to be a lot better, for my surprise it was the other way around...it sounds cold and dirty

 

Is there any way to put in these 91002-32 what they are missing inside for them to work as they should?

 

 

[KingRex]

This is how I wire a quad.  I am only showing the white and ground for the example. Notice the jumper on the neutral. Notice the ground is open to the clockwise rotation of the screw so it will clamp tight when you torque the screw. Also notice on the ground I pinched the wire together before tightening it. Most of the better receptacles have clamps on the side of the ground just like on the neutral and hot. If I were working with a number six I would pigtail off with number tens. This configuration is called a pigtail.  The tan wirenut is good for 3x#10 wires. Red is easier for a novice. 

[KingRex]

16 minutes ago, mikicasellas said:

 

I have the same model which looks exactly like this one you are showing,  compared to my TOPAZ- 1KVA - .001pF the latter performs cleaner quiter and less hot, it is just better, the music is more natural and organic, i purchased the 91002-32 excited for what the smaller was doing and if a 1KVA with .001 was performing so well, the 2.4 with .0005pF was supposed to be a lot better, for my surprise it was the other way around...it sounds cold and dirty

 

Is there any way to put in these 91002-32 what they are missing inside for them to work as they should?

 

 

What are you powering. I don't like the transformer on front end gear, but it was great with my CJ amp.