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ALLO USBridge Signature


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3 hours ago, zackthedog said:

 

It's here:

 

https://allo.com/sparky/aluminum-case-usbridge-sig.html#downloads

 

Select the combo option and you can see it. The Digione Sig is powered by an adapter cable inside the case, as you can see.  I assume "adaptor source" means a power adaptor, wall wart or some other 5-9 volt supply.  Of the course the Shanti is ideal. 😉 

 

Allo's website is weird, with a lot of stuff not findable unless you directly google it.

 

 

 

Thanks. Very helpful!

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If you already own a DigiOne Signature, you need to buy the USBridge Signature in a “USBridge Sig+DigiOne Sig” aluminium case - the option is shown on the Allo website. The USBridge Sig is already installed in this case.

 

As the USBridge Sig is based upon an RPi3 “Compute Module” it already incorporates the GPIO HAT connector, so you simply transfer your existing DigiOne Sig from your old RPI board to the USBSig. It’s a tight fit, and IIRC you have to change the stand-offs - (new stand-offs are provided). One point to note is that depending upon the age of your DigiOne Sig, you may have to “short out” a diode on the lower board of the DigiOneSig and (possibly) on the top board as well (I just had to do the lower board).  The details and photographs are available here (member Aprobin has them, as do I) and on other websites such as Pink Fish. 

 

The rebuild takes about 15 minutes, and then you can sort out your preferred OS. I use Moode, and discovered that I could simply extract the SD card from my old RPi3/DigiOnsSig and plug it straight into the USBSig/DigiOneSig.

 

Oh, and get the Shanti at the same time. It just works.

 

Edit: On the subject of power supplies; The USBSig/DigiOneSig combo requires two supplies.

One is the “dirty” +5V/3A, which can be your standard RPi supply - but you will need a “microUSB to USB-C” adaptor. This supply powers the USBSig board, and parts of the DigiOneSig (provided you’ve done the diode mod, LOL)

 

The second is the “clean” supply (nominally) +5V/1A. This supply has its own dedicated barrel connector. You can power this from a battery pack, SMPS or a linear supply. The Cuinas Audio Supercapacitor dual +5V supply is very good for around £200, but I think the Shanti just about has the edge - both myself and member Heckyman have gone down this road; Heckyman also detailed some comprehensive tests of power supplies on Pink Fish forum.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 1/23/2020 at 6:57 PM, pl_svn said:

please... how long are Shanti's DC umbilicals?

thanks :)

 

... no one knows? 😶

Qnap HS-264 NAS (powered by an HD-Plex 100w LPS) > Cirrus7 Nimbini v2.5 Media Edition i7-8559U/32/512 running Roon ROCK (powered by a Keces P8 LPS) > Lumin U2  > Metrum Acoustics Adagio NOS digital preamplifier > Metrum Acoustics Forte power amplifier (or  First Watt SIT 3  power amplifier or Don Garber Fi "Y" 6922 tube preamplifier + Don Garber Fi "X" 2A3 SET power amplifier, both powered from an Alpha-Core BP-30 Isolated Symmetrical Power Transformer) > Klipsch Cornwall IV

 

headphones system:

Cirrus 7 > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio > Pathos Aurium amplifier (powered by an UpTone Audio JS-2 LPS) > Focal Clear headphones

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thank you guys :)

Qnap HS-264 NAS (powered by an HD-Plex 100w LPS) > Cirrus7 Nimbini v2.5 Media Edition i7-8559U/32/512 running Roon ROCK (powered by a Keces P8 LPS) > Lumin U2  > Metrum Acoustics Adagio NOS digital preamplifier > Metrum Acoustics Forte power amplifier (or  First Watt SIT 3  power amplifier or Don Garber Fi "Y" 6922 tube preamplifier + Don Garber Fi "X" 2A3 SET power amplifier, both powered from an Alpha-Core BP-30 Isolated Symmetrical Power Transformer) > Klipsch Cornwall IV

 

headphones system:

Cirrus 7 > Lumin U2 > Metrum Acoustics Adagio > Pathos Aurium amplifier (powered by an UpTone Audio JS-2 LPS) > Focal Clear headphones

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37 minutes ago, suzywong said:

Is that card not designed to go into one of their amps? In which case, would it not get power from the main box?

Correct, it is a DAC-card for their amps. I think it is USB-powered because the DAC is recogniced in ROON, even when the amp is turned OFF.

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2 hours ago, smith123 said:

No one is using a usb powered dac?

 

I think it is a most valuable question how the USBridge Signature is able to power an pure USB-DAC which does not have its own power supply.

There are nice USB-DACs like Khadas Tone Board for example which should be a good match with the Allo.

So any feedback is most welcome. 

@allo.com?

Thanks

 

Matt

"I want to know why the musicians are on stage, not where". (John Farlowe)

 

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I have been using by USBridge Sig and Shanti to power a Mytek Liberty DAC and had a few issues with pops and crackles, I minimised this by using an earlier kernel as advised by Allo. Anyway, now I have just purchased a Topping D90 balanced DAC which has a different chip in it. I therefore upgraded Dietpi to the latest version, 6.28.0. I need to have the NAA running as I use HQ Player, and I don't think there is other software that supports it on the Sig. The CPU govenor is 'OnDemand' at the moment.

 

I have had a few listening sessions and it sounds good, however I think I might still be able to hear the odd pop and crackle but its hard to be sure.

 

Is there anything else I can do to minimuse pops/crackles?

 

 

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3 hours ago, rossco said:

...The CPU govenor is 'OnDemand' at the moment. I have had a few listening sessions and it sounds good, however I think I might still be able to hear the odd pop and crackle but its hard to be sure. Is there anything else I can do to minimuse pops/crackles?

 

@rossco I had similar and just set the USBridge Signature to the max performance via the UI setting (DietPi) - that resolved the issue for me (with Oppo BDP-105D Sabre 32-bit Reference DAC).

Hi-Fi 1: QNAP HS-453DX NAS+QLMS; Allo USBridge Signature+Shanti LPS; Cirrus ESS Sabre 32-bit Reference DAC (Oppo 105D); Yamaha Aventage CX-A5000; Focal SM9 Monitors.
Hi-Fi 2: Squeezebox Touch+Shanti LPS; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Hi-Fi 3: Squeezebox Transporter; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Hi-Fi 4: PC+Squeezelite-X with Material Skin; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Head-Fi: Plantronics BackBeat Pro 2 LE Headphones.
Accessories: iPeng (on iPhones & iPad); Tchernov Classic & Van den Hul ICs; Blue Jeans & Ruleconnect Cables (Power, HDMI, USB & Coaxial); Thor PS10 Power Station; Aurios & Vibrapods.

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Just now, rossco said:

Did you set the Sig to 'Performance' in the CPU govenor?

 

Yes 🙂

Hi-Fi 1: QNAP HS-453DX NAS+QLMS; Allo USBridge Signature+Shanti LPS; Cirrus ESS Sabre 32-bit Reference DAC (Oppo 105D); Yamaha Aventage CX-A5000; Focal SM9 Monitors.
Hi-Fi 2: Squeezebox Touch+Shanti LPS; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Hi-Fi 3: Squeezebox Transporter; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Hi-Fi 4: PC+Squeezelite-X with Material Skin; Focal XS Book powered speakers.
Head-Fi: Plantronics BackBeat Pro 2 LE Headphones.
Accessories: iPeng (on iPhones & iPad); Tchernov Classic & Van den Hul ICs; Blue Jeans & Ruleconnect Cables (Power, HDMI, USB & Coaxial); Thor PS10 Power Station; Aurios & Vibrapods.

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15 hours ago, Mycenius said:

 

Yes 🙂

 

Thank you. I have set the Streamer to 'Performance'. I will see how I get on.

 

I did see somewhere, although I cannot find it now, that this 'Performance' setting sets the clock rate to 600mHz, and I also remember seeing someone saying they had manually set their processor speed to 700mHz, presumably not in the GUI though. Does the performance setting do this?

 

I know I need ot listen more before but is this something else to consider, if still geting pop's and crackles occasionally?

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Allo has very good regulators on their USBBridge Signature, but some are LDO's with <6V maximums.

 

Feel free to try it with a 6V battery. You may get lucky. 

 

More likely you'll have to buy another.

 

Greg in Mississippi 

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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I could always add my own linear power regulator in-front (I have one for 5v), but it would be nice if it could be run on battery without that. Some competitors to Allo have like 5-9V input range, but maybe the fact that Allo now sells a LPS has something to do with it.

 

But still, how much power does an Allo USBridge Sig typically require for normal operation (no USB powering, no HDMI, no WiFi, no BT)? 

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