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About MagnusH

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  1. Yes, and a Lampizator DAC, D'Agostino power amps and MBL 101 X-treme speakers. And then you look at the cost and the dream evaporates like mist on a sunny day.
  2. I am thinking about switching DAC to a R2R with I2S input, and then I would like to use I2S instead of USB. The DAC I am thinking about is Musician Pegasus which has I2S as a HDMI (LVDS) input. I am also using HQPlayer so the solution has to support NAA. I currently use a tweaked/upgraded microRendu behind an opticalModule (fiber in), and run NAA on the microRendu. An easy way to solve I2S with streaming would be to just buy one of the USB -> I2S converters out there like Matrix SPDIF-2 USB. https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/digital-interfaces/matrix-x-spdif-2-usb-interface-xm
  3. But does it sound better than 1.4? The lack of a quality clock makes me somewhat doubtful of how it sounds (but I haven't heard it so its speculation).
  4. You might be correct! From a technical price/performance viewpoint, the Crystek 575 or the best NDK (which is about $6) would be best, unless something new has come up which is even better. But once you consider marketing and existing products, all bets are off. A microRendu for $399 with good clock and good power does sound very good (I know, I have one myself) and would lower the price/performance of both ultraRendu and opticalRendu But lets see if we can get a comment? Paging @barrows @vortecjr
  5. Its a little smoother and clearer, but as always for changes on the digital side its not a big "wow" kind of improvement. For example, if you have $2000 system you could probably put the money to better use elsewhere. opticalModule also makes the system more revealing which is not always positive.
  6. I have used the TP-link MFC and is now using the opticalModule, and the opticalModule does sound a little better. But I use a switch with a fiber SFP port (a cheap TRENDNet, around $40), so from switch I use fiber connected to opticalModule, then an ultra-short ethernet cable (more like an adapter, homemade) to streamer.
  7. I am pretty sure its the Crystek 575 clock in it (or the best NDK one), it would not make sense to use anything else. Having said that, why didn't they brag about it. "Crystek femto-clock with ultra-low phase noise" sounds good after all.
  8. Found this on the web, so yes the Y1 should be a 25Mhz oscillator (but have seen X or XO also used):
  9. I love the form factor of the microRendu, I play in office setup and its perfect to use behind the DAC (below/behind monitor) connected to the DAC with an UpTone A>B adapter, and power/ethernet connected in other end. However, its clock (oscillator) is not the best, it was designed before the accurate audio clocks where available (or very expensive). But nowadays, one of the best oscillator available is the Crystek CCHD-575 and it costs $12, and its pin-compatible with the old clock in the microRendu. So I decided to replace it, ordered a Crystek CCHD-575 24Mhz from mouser, here
  10. This one is what you want I think: https://ifi-audio.com/products/idefender3-0/
  11. No, just lucky 🙂 , I just bought a cheap card on the nearest shop that sells those things It will take a while before I can do more upgrades to it, but I plan to insert some Panasonic high-quality caps at the output of the voltage regulator board, and as I already mentioned replace the clock with a very low phase-noise 25Mhz NDK clock. Lets see if it makes any differences, but at least now I feel much less inclined to buy some expensive HiFi switch or NIC!
  12. I also just ordered a 25Mhz NDK NZ2520SD for $6 (but shipment $30 from Japan), going to connect that to the regulator board and then the clock output to the little black chip's clock input and cut the connection to the old clock. Lets see if it makes any difference (the clock has very low phase noise).
  13. I actually only cut one because the card uses the 3.3v aux, the 4 normal 3.3v was not used. No idea if the removal of the LEDs improved the sound, but they are useless to have anyway so might as well remove them (and since I use battery as power it will last a little longer). The sound improvement was similar to a LAN isolator from Pink Faun I bought a few weeks ago, more rounded and fluid sound with less harsh high frequencies (I still use the LAN isolator so this was in addition to it's improvement).
  14. Here is a little USB tweak I made to a cheap TP-Link network card. Nothing to fancy, I just cut the 3.3v connection to PCIe and patched in a linear voltage regulator board and a connector to get external power (currently using a battery pack, 4*AA). It made a nice improvement to the sound though, calmer and more fluent. But I would like to take this further, maybe a better clock? Or cut the ground connection to the PCIe and make the card floating (will the card work after?). Suggestions are welcome 🙂
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