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About suzywong

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  1. Or just plug them both in (as noted two posts up) and power up. Booting the RPI takes much longer than initialising the WM chip, so all is good. PS done this many times without issue.
  2. I have three streamers, including a USBridgeSig+DigiOneSig. Each runs MoOde from it’s own SD card All pull FLACs from a Synology NAS over the LAN (wired and wireless) all work just fine,.
  3. I've got mine floating because I read the manual literally, and because there is a Naim CD player connected in the system the UM says "floating". However the CDX is not connected to the DAC so my interpretation may be completely and utterly wrong! Who knows ?? LOL Might be worth trying both settings to see which sounds better - at least we won't do any damage (according to the the user manual).
  4. I suggest using dBPowerAmp to rip to a Synology or QNAP NAS. You could make a shared folder on the NAS to store your rips and can then set MoOde "Music Source" to point to the NAS/folder.
  5. So I’ve got USBridgeSig+DigiOneSig+Shanti, connected to my nDAC (with olive XPS) by DC-1 (BNC). The nDAC signal ground switch is set to “Floating” I have a chassis ground strap between the USBridgeSig case and the Shanti case. It all seems to work very nicely.
  6. Nope......mine's as quiet as they come!
  7. Hi Andy, that is correct. The USBSig needs only the 3A supply from the Shanti, via the small USB-C connector. If you bought the metal case with you USBSig then there is only the one power input socket, the USB-C in the bottom left corner. if in the future, you need a SPDIF Output then you would acquire the DigiOneSig, and its dedicated case which incorporates the second power socket. The second power socket is a “barrel” type (I think Allo provide an USB-C to barrel” adaptor; if not then they are easily obtained from eBay....).
  8. The 1A supply is for the clean side of the DigiOne Signature. Do you have a DigiOneSig?
  9. Good that you’ve now got it working, and as suspected, it’s the middle board diode causing the problem. I got out the soldering iron and shorted out the diode; it’s a straightforward fix - leave the diode in place and just solder a loop of TCW between the ends - but if you are not confident with wielding an iron, then maybe you could ask Allo to send you a new middle board. For sure, having done mine, I can now power the whole unit via the rear panel. It’s curious that Allo haven’t been around...they’re normally very quick to respond...and it’s not even August 😆😆. Maybe they’ve got caught up in this Coronavirus shebackle. If so, then I’m sure we wish them well.
  10. The DigiOneSig+USBSig case has two power connectors on the rear panel. 1. USB-C type for the dirty side, located bottom left (when looking on the rear face) which connects directly onto the USBSig board. Supply should be rated at +5V, 3A. 2. 2.5mm “barrel” type, located top right for the clean side. Internally the barrel connector has a short flying lead endingwith a USB-C type connector that plugs into the clean supply connector on the DigiOne Sig. Supply should be rated at +5V, 1A. If you were running your DigiOneSig on top of an RPi then you will recall that you plugged both clean and dirty supplies into the DigiOneSig and the RPi got its power from the DigiOneSig. Now that you have replaced your RPi with a USBSig, the intention is that you will run the dirty & clean supplies into the rear panel, therefore you will have the internal flying lead connected to the clean side of the DigiOne Sig. However, if then you plug your supplies into the rear panel and it does not work, then that indicates that the middle board (at least) still has the diode. Therefore the mod(s) as described previously will be required. You can confirm this by removing the case top, unplugging the aforementioned barrel to USB-C flying lead, and connecting your supplies directly to the DigiOneSig; the DigiOneSig will then supply power to the USBSig, and indeed I ran the unit with that configuration for a few days, while investigating the problem. The photos were send me by AProbin of this parish; I believe he had obtained them from Allo.
  11. Right, this sounds like you need to do the diode shorting mod on the middle board of the DigiOneSig+USBridgeSig stack. I did it the same way (ran the DigiSig with a RPi 3B+ at first, then bought the USBSig & case later on). I could get the whole stack to run only if I took the top off and used both power inputs on the DigiOneSig. I've added the two photos. You may find the top board already has a link in place, but the middle board will almost certainly need attention. You don't have to remove the diode, just solder a bit of TCW across it.
  12. For a USBSig & DigiOneSig, you need to have the correct case, on the relevant page on the allo.com site is a drop down for “USBridgeSig+DigiOne Sig”. Then you will find that the “dirty” supply is the USB-C, bottom left, and the “clean” supply is the barrel connector, top right. Note that depending on the age of your existing DigiOneSig, you may have to short out a diode on the middle lower board of the DigOneSig (and if it’s really old, a diode on the top board). You could run the whole caboodle from a single power supply feeding both clean and dirty supplies, and indeed I did exactly that for a few months with a Cuinas Audio ISO-PS, and very fine it was But for maximum benefit what you need is two isolated supplies: for example, your bog standard RPi supply for the dirty side and a separate “low noise” LPS or even batteries for the clean side, or a dedicated dual (isolated) output PS, such as Allo’s Shanti. I run my USBSig+Digi1Sig+Shanti+Moode through Naim DC-1 BNC-BNC interconnect to a Naim DAC+XPS. It is really rather good!
  13. Hmmm, probably not the DACs then. Same DAC inputs, presumably? My experience of going from RPi+DigiOneSig to USBridgeSig+DigiOneSig, is more akin to dontfeedphils’s.
  14. Are you sure it's not your DAC? Last year I changed from: RPi3B+DigiOneSig->Musical Fidelity V-DAC2+VPSU to: RPi3B+DigiOneSig->Naim DAC+XPS, and thought that the sound got a lot "darker" (if that's the right term) - at first, I wasn't sure I liked it. However the other benefits of the nDAC over the MF were very apparent.
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