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Which one to buy: UpTone USB REGEN or Intona USB Isolator?


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i know. maybe i didn't connect them in the right sequence. didn't really test too much with the adapter since i no longer need a USB hub. I don't like the idea of using the adapter on the DAC or the source as there is a big risk to damage the connectors.

 

You may use stuff under and above Intona to secure it from moving (dragged by the upstream USB cable). I found the adapter sounds better than using a USB cable between Intona and DAC.

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Well blankdisc, I couldn't quite match the price of the Monoprice cables, so opted for something four times the price, the wallet really hurt at $4 a piece, did the gamble pay off?

 

For the record, used an i5 500GB spinning drive, mac mini with Yosemite, Lindy P/N 31643 USB A to USB B 0.5m, Intona Isolator, Lindy P/N 31643 USB A to USB B 0.5m, Mutec MC-1.2 USB in. Output of the MC-1.2 is AES3 to an RME ADI-2 DAC. HqPlayer (trial), with poly short upsampled to 192.

 

Either way, connecting the Intona online or cold from a restart,several times, nary a glitch or messing about with no sound, played 100% with *complete* reliability. Listened to music with greater realism than ever before and restored my appraisal/faith in USB Audio, the Intona is that good. I would never have thought such a simple looking box could make that much of a difference in clarity and presentation.

 

Galvanic isolation is a big deal, for USB it's essential.

 

It's good, well, great actually, with very modest cabling de rigeur and expensive USB cables relegated to the market, and no additional power supplies to add either.

 

Worth persisting with despite the drama from last week. On Windows though it's a different story. The Mutec won't install at all, the Intona is not used so will work with Mutec to find a solution. I prefer Windows with ASIO and I have a license for HQPlayer, so really keen to get this moving, but in the meantime, OSX is doing very well indeed.

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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Well blankdisc, I couldn't quite match the price of the Monoprice cables, so opted for something four times the price, the wallet really hurt at $4 a piece, did the gamble pay off?

 

For the record, used an i5 500GB spinning drive, mac mini with Yosemite, Lindy P/N 31643 USB A to USB B 0.5m, Intona Isolator, Lindy P/N 31643 USB A to USB B 0.5m, Mutec MC-1.2 USB in. Output of the MC-1.2 is AES3 to an RME ADI-2 DAC. HqPlayer (trial), with poly short upsampled to 192.

 

Either way, connecting the Intona online or cold from a restart,several times, nary a glitch or messing about with no sound, played 100% with *complete* reliability. Listened to music with greater realism than ever before and restored my appraisal/faith in USB Audio, the Intona is that good. I would never have thought such a simple looking box could make that much of a difference in clarity and presentation.

 

Galvanic isolation is a big deal, for USB it's essential.

 

It's good, well, great actually, with very modest cabling de rigeur and expensive USB cables relegated to the market, and no additional power supplies to add either.

 

Worth persisting with despite the drama from last week. On Windows though it's a different story. The Mutec won't install at all, the Intona is not used so will work with Mutec to find a solution. I prefer Windows with ASIO and I have a license for HQPlayer, so really keen to get this moving, but in the meantime, OSX is doing very well indeed.

 

Which Intona box do you own, plain or industrial?

Pareto Audio aka nuckleheadaudio

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So this is pretty much a repost of what I put on Phasure.com. My Itona USB isolator came a few days ago and I got a chance to listen to it for about 8 hours total now. Here's some detail of my system copied from my Phasure forum signature, some of it will mean nothing to those not using XXHiEnd playback software but you'll get an idea of the specifics of my music server and system components.

W10-10074 XX HighEnd 2.03 PC -> i7 3930K AS Rock MB W/ Dexa Neutron Star & linear PS supply mod. For Processor Clock, Hyperthreading On (12 cores) @430MHz (!), 16GB, Windows 10 Pro 64 bit Insider Preview build 10074 Samsun SSD, XXHE on 2GB RAMDisk (IMDisk), music on LAN / Engine#4 Adaptive Mode / Q1/-/3/4/5 = 14/-/1/1/1 / Q1Factor = 1 / Dev.Buffer = 4096 / ClockRes = 1ms / Memory = Straight Contiguous / Include Garbage Collect / SFS W10 = .14(max 60) / not Invert / Phase Alignment Off / Playerprio = Low / ThreadPrio = Realtime / W8 Scheme = Core 3-5, W10 Scheme = Core 1-3 / Not Switch Processors during Playback = Off/ Playback Drive 2GB RAMDisk (IMDisk) / UnAttended (Just Start) / All Services Off / Keep LAN - *Not Persist* / WallPaper Off, W10 Running Time Off / Minimize OS / XTweaks : Balanced Load = *63* / Nervous Rate = 1 / Cool when Idle = 1 / Provide Stable Power = 1 / Utilize Cores always = 1 / Time Performance Index = Optimal / Time Stability = On / *Custom Filter Mid 705600* / -> USB3 (Silverstone W/Dexa Neutron Star Clock & Linear PS> *Clairixa USB* -> Uptone Regen w/ Dexa Neutron Star & linear PS -> 24/768 Phasure NOS1a 75B (BNC Out) async USB DAC, Driver v1.0.4b (*4ms*) -> Blaxius BNC interlink -> 8 channels of Hypex NCore 400's -> DYI BD Orphean Horns w/ qty-3 custom 15" open baffle bass drivers and qty-8 12" open baffle subwoofers per channel.

 

 

I first listened to my current setup which has a NeutronStar clock modified Uptone Regen USB re-clocker running off a lithium Ion battery power supply. The sound was as usual: very nice detail, ambiance, deep nicely scaled soundstage and nice black background.

 

 

Out came the Regen and in went the Itona with a short generic USB from the PC and the Phasure Clarixa 1m USB to the NOS1a 75b.

 

 

So I don't want to sound hyperbolic but, I was literally stunned at the difference! Like a complete removal of blur, smear and distortion. And this was in all important areas; frequency response, timing and dynamics. Every song I played was just so much more detailed and right. What really stood out was the delicacy of quiet passages but the incredible slam and quickness of percussion and piano. And the decay seemed infinite, just so natural. And the natural shimmer to cymbals better than I've ever heard from my system.

 

 

We all have known the feeling of running through our favorites and hearing them as new again, but Wow! this was pretty dramatic.

 

Todd

 

+1 Glad the Intona has resulted in a positive benefit in your system.

 

I've had the Intona in my system for close to a week now. No hiccups at all once I got the right cables, and my experience mirrors yours: The sound quality has improved significantly in my system. Last night, I went direct from the DAC to the monoblocks, and the result was revelatory. A keeper for sure.

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Imma gonna start making and selling a gorgeous machined aluminum case to put all of these cable tweaks inside. Gonna be a best sella.

NUC10i7 + Roon ROCK > dCS Rossini APEX DAC + dCS Rossini Master Clock 

SME 20/3 + SME V + Dynavector XV-1s or ANUK IO Gold > vdH The Grail or Kondo KSL-SFz + ANK L3 Phono 

Audio Note Kondo Ongaku > Avantgarde Duo Mezzo

Signal cables: Kondo Silver, Crystal Cable phono

Power cables: Kondo, Shunyata, van den Hul

system pics

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Imma gonna start making and selling a gorgeous machined aluminum case to put all of these cable tweaks inside. Gonna be a best sella.

 

Lol . You will make a fortune ! Happy New Year Miggy .

 

By the way - The intona with the Yggy made a noticeable audio improvement using an older IMac .

The Regen and Jitterbug did nothing in imo with the Yggy , though the Regen has made a big difference with quite a few other dacs I've used .

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Imma gonna start making and selling a gorgeous machined aluminum case to put all of these cable tweaks inside. Gonna be a best sella.

 

Someone beat you to it long since. :)

 

Oppo on the Inside, Lexicon on the Outside | Audioholics

One never knows, do one? - Fats Waller

The fairest thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science. - Einstein

Computer, Audirvana -> optical Ethernet to Fitlet3 -> Fibbr Alpha Optical USB -> iFi NEO iDSD DAC -> Apollon Audio 1ET400A Mini (Purifi based) -> Vandersteen 3A Signature.

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Someone beat you to it long since. :)

 

Oppo on the Inside, Lexicon on the Outside | Audioholics

 

Yeah, you would have thought that Lexicon had learned from that fiasco. But compare their current MC14 pre/pro to the Bryston SP3 and you have the same outcome. Sadly, Lexicon is a shadow of its former self.

Synology NAS>i7-6700/32GB/NVIDIA QUADRO P4000 Win10>Qobuz+Tidal>Roon>HQPlayer>DSD512> Fiber Switch>Ultrarendu (NAA)>Holo Audio May KTE DAC> Bryston SP3 pre>Levinson No. 432 amps>Magnepan (MG20.1x2, CCR and MMC2x6)

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You may use stuff under and above Intona to secure it from moving (dragged by the upstream USB cable). I found the adapter sounds better than using a USB cable between Intona and DAC.

 

There's a barebones version of the 7054 Isolator, if you're into tin bashing and cutting, add the card into the DAC or tower/desktop PC? Or a nicely machined billeted shiny no microphonics resonance free block. And an option of a blue LED ;) Yup big sella.

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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The differences are listed on Intona's website and I repeat them here:

 

Standard Version: 1kV isolation, standard temperature grade, standard connectors

Industrial Version: 2.5kV isolation, specified isolation working voltage, extended temperature grade, high retention connectors

 

For audio use, standard version is sufficient. However, as you read there're incompatibility issues related to some DACs/USB converters and so you'd better check with Daniel at Intona before you buy.

 

Do you think the sound quality will be equal between the standard version and the industrial version? Would be great to save a few $'s.

 

Thanks!

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Do you think the sound quality will be equal between the standard version and the industrial version? Would be great to save a few $'s.

 

Thanks!

 

You listen to music at home, so there's really no need to have 2.5 times the isolation. The 2500V isolation is required when you have a USB sensor, like a high voltage (>1000V) probe connected to a computer. There needs to be a higher barrier in place, in case the USB sensor shorts, it won't deliver the full voltage to the computer and blow the motherboard to charcoal.

 

For audio, we don't encounter such levels, typically our voltage for USB is 5V, extremes might be 20V if all goes pear shaped. A lightning strike can even destroy the 2500V version, so no need to put this into the equation in the decision making process.

The connector on the 7504-X version is a locking one, which is a plus, but 99.3% of the time, the isolator is in a fixed position at home.

 

I'll eat my isolator if the two versions sound different.

AS Profile Equipment List        Say NO to MQA

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Hey guys,

 

I'm the one that said he would try the Regen with the Itona isolator and I did. Please note that my Regen was run off a lithium ion battery power supply and the stock clock was replaced with a New Class-D Neutron Star clock with its linear power supply. The mods improved the Regen substantially over the stock unit and in my system I preferred the Regen to the straight USB connection. It has been enjoyed as part of my system for the past several months.

 

I found the result of adding the Regen with the Itona quite enjoyable and musical and not much different to the Regen alone. but it was not as accurate and neutral as the Itona alone. With the just the Itona alone there was definitely more low level detail and better delineation of bass notes plus a wider soundstage and overall quicker dynamics with less overhang. As I posted earlier, less blur and distortion. Like the difference between looking out a pair of smudged glasses as opposed to 20/20 vision with no glasses at all."Just More Real"

 

Did the Itona improve the Regen? I'd say maybe slightly but I'd have a hard time justifying its cost if I had preferred the sound of the Regen to the Itona by itself.

 

I'll be sticking to the Itona alone in my system and now can't imagine listening without it!

 

Todd

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Yesterday I ordered the industrial version of the Intona. I chose this version based on what PeterSt wrote about it here: Intona High Speed USB 2.0 galvanic isolation

 

I will try it in place of my Uptone Audio Regen (with 12V linear BoTWS PSU).

 

The chain will be:

 

Music server -> JCAT USB PCIe interface (powered by JCAT battery PSU) -> Curious 0.8m USB cable -> Intona -> Curious 0.2m USB cable (Regen link) -> Devialet 250.

 

Very curious to how it will sound, the Regen already brought quite an improvement. Hope to receive it later this week/early next week.

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Yesterday I ordered the industrial version of the Intona. I chose this version based on what PeterSt wrote about it here: Intona High Speed USB 2.0 galvanic isolation

 

I will try it in place of my Uptone Audio Regen (with 12V linear BoTWS PSU).

 

The chain will be:

 

Music server -> JCAT USB PCIe interface (powered by JCAT battery PSU) -> Curious 0.8m USB cable -> Intona -> Curious 0.2m USB cable (Regen link) -> Devialet 250.

 

Very curious to how it will sound, the Regen already brought quite an improvement. Hope to receive it later this week/early next week.

 

Hi devs,

 

Looking forward to hearing how the Intona works on your system. The Curious USB cables/Intona combination has worked well in my system.

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For those who would like to try the Intona with the Regen... This may sound a little against the recommendations, but trying the Regen before the Intona may possibly reveal something different ? I know this would probably cancel the value of improving the SI (signal integrity), but... Who knows... And the Intona would already get a cleaner power... I think I will get myself a strong coffee...

Alain

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You listen to music at home, so there's really no need to have 2.5 times the isolation. The 2500V isolation is required when you have a USB sensor, like a high voltage (>1000V) probe connected to a computer. There needs to be a higher barrier in place, in case the USB sensor shorts, it won't deliver the full voltage to the computer and blow the motherboard to charcoal.

 

For audio, we don't encounter such levels, typically our voltage for USB is 5V, extremes might be 20V if all goes pear shaped. A lightning strike can even destroy the 2500V version, so no need to put this into the equation in the decision making process.

The connector on the 7504-X version is a locking one, which is a plus, but 99.3% of the time, the isolator is in a fixed position at home.

 

I'll eat my isolator if the two versions sound different.

 

Thanks! Apparently there are some other opinions as well, which is fine of course.

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FWIW : That is not my experience about such things. As a matter of fact it is the other way around - what's generally perceived as mediocre recording, often is about less hassle applied to the (digital) chain and that now being better and therefore more difficult to let excel. Think e.g. better dynamics because of less compression, while better dynamics first require a playback chain which can follow.

 

It could be tough to discuss what's a mediocre recording and what is the better one. This is because often we can not know. What I do, is always putting the mediocre ones aside for later revisiting, like for when an Intona comes about. ;)

I thus explicitly observe the worser ones and see with what (future application) they may improve. Now :

 

It may be fairly easy to have consensus over the older recordings sounding worse. Think 60's or early 70's. Still this is not so as over time I learned that they sound the best (so better than today's) if only first the playback chain improves.

Of course all is logic if we see how compression etc. molests, that is, if we disregard the so much other stuff involved (read : it surely is not about compression only).

 

Usually when such a thing happens (better recordings start to sound even better while the mediocre ones show even more failure) something else is not right.

Of course you'd need to know me a bit more to believe in that without a million posts about it ...

 

Peter

Lush^3-e      Lush^2      Blaxius^2.5      Ethernet^3     HDMI^2     XLR^2

XXHighEnd (developer)

Phasure NOS1 24/768 Async USB DAC (manufacturer)

Phasure Mach III Audio PC with Linear PSU (manufacturer)

Orelino & Orelo MKII Speakers (designer/supplier)

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With Intona, the perceived difference between great recordings and mediocre ones became larger. Is this an indication that Intona brings the sound "truer" to the orinigal recording mixed in the studio?

 

Even though your description is a bit over-simplistic, I would agree that if one is to replace a lesser system component with one that performs better it makes sense for the removal of a "bottleneck" to amplify the difference between good and bad recordings.

This of course requires that we define what's good and what is bad in the sound of a recording.

 

R

"Science draws the wave, poetry fills it with water" Teixeira de Pascoaes

 

HQPlayer Desktop / Mac mini → Intona 7054 → RME ADI-2 DAC FS (DSD256)

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Hi All

 

I went to my local Memory Express computer parts store and bought two basic certified USB 2 cables, unfortunately the smallest length was 6 ft. I tried to make my MacBook see my MSB Analogue DAC, just using the Intona connected by two basic BUT certified cables, But no luck.

 

Daniel from Intona recommended using the unit with the Uptone regen (acting as a hub) stating the Meanwell SMPS plus SBooster (filter add-on) of the Uptone regen as likely less noisey than the MacBook's power supply.

 

So I tried it, using one of the two basic cables to go between the MacBook and the Intona.

There was a small but noticeable improvement in quality, immediately noticeable after, say, 15 seconds of play on familiar tracks.

 

I've got a 50 cm Curious cable on order for this purpose, and I'm going to hold off on a detailed comparison until it arrives, but I believe my USB chain is ultimately going to look like.

 

Macbook -> 50 cm Curious USB -> Intona -> Vbus isolator ->1.0 meter Lightspeed harmonic USB -> Uptone Regen (Meanwell smps+Sbooster smps filter) -> 20 cm Curious USB -> MSB DAC

 

Regards

Barry

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Hi Barry,

 

Just thinking... If the Intona already cleans the power already, maybe you may not need the Vbus isolator ? If you feel like it, you could test with and without the Vbus Isolator just to see if you really need it ? It's not a matter of price, since the Vbus is not expensive, but it has to do with all the connections ("ins" and "outs") that you have in the chain between your MacBook and the MSB dac... The idea is to have 90 ohms as much as possible in the chain, but the more connections you have, the more the probability that the impedance will be changed throughout the signal journey...

 

Just an idea of course... :)

 

Regards,

Alain

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