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The "Official" Aurender Discussion Thread


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Agalstone,

I like the idea of buying a modem. Have I mentioned lately I HATE Comcast? Of course, I also dislike IT stuff, and the one thing that Comcast seems to do pretty well is reliable internet.

 

Would I still need to hardwire the Aurender or move the modem?

 

Thanks!

AC

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I am posting my perspective because excellent products and even better customer service and care deserve praise! As I have posted before, I am fairly rare as a totally blind audiophile. Before going further, I contacted the national rep and had a good conversation but he couldn't assure me that the app would work for me. He did ask that if I tested it out, would I please let him know as accessibility is important to the company. As an aside, and I understand why, when I contacted Roon, they politely informed me that Roon isn't accessible and, because of its design, it won't be. So I auditioned an Aurender a few months ago at Take5Audio (where the sales team was great in setting up Aurender with VoiceOver on their iPad) to both listen to the unit but, more importantly, test the interface for accessibility with Apple's text to speech VoiceOver application. It worked perfectly and, as a result, I purchased a N100. Followed the online instructions and installed easily. Likewise transferred my roughly 600 albums from my Mac to the Aurender. As I have used the unit, I have found a few little glitches in the way the Aurender app reads certain elements. In every case, I contacted Aurender and every time Eric replied quickly and helpfully. In the latest upgrade, most of the glitches have been fixed. This is remarkable for a relatively small company and an even more limited user group.

My highest compliments for a great product an great service.

MBP13-128gb ssd using VoiceOver to hear the screen, iTunes, Ayre QB-9, McIntosh mx119 & mc207, Thiel CS2.4

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Agalstone,

I like the idea of buying a modem. Have I mentioned lately I HATE Comcast? Of course, I also dislike IT stuff, and the one thing that Comcast seems to do pretty well is reliable internet.

 

Would I still need to hardwire the Aurender or move the modem?

 

Thanks!

AC

 

The Modem (Arris) gets connected to RGB6 ( cable wire coming from wall) then you need to connect that modem to a router and also a switch if the router does not have enough Ethernet ports (the one I bought has 6 Ethernet ports, so that was just enough for me - I use all 6) then you connect the aurender (and any other media devices) via an Ethernet / cat 6/7 cable.

That is definitely the best way to do it, wireless is not as good for media / streaming in my opinion.

You can also buy an arris modem router combo just like the Comcast one you have now, but buying a separate one of each is better and will give you more longevity from the Modem because the router will become outdated before the modem does.

FYI, I may be one of the least technical/ IT savvy members on Computer Audiophile, so let others chime in but I believe I am giving you the best advice.

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The Modem (Arris) gets connected to RGB6 ( cable wire coming from wall) then you need to connect that modem to a router and also a switch if the router does not have enough Ethernet ports (the one I bought has 6 Ethernet ports, so that was just enough for me - I use all 6) then you connect the aurender (and any other media devices) via an Ethernet / cat 6/7 cable.

That is definitely the best way to do it, wireless is not as good for media / streaming in my opinion.

You can also buy an arris modem router combo just like the Comcast one you have now, but buying a separate one of each is better and will give you more longevity from the Modem because the router will become outdated before the modem does.

FYI, I may be one of the least technical/ IT savvy members on Computer Audiophile, so let others chime in but I believe I am giving you the best advice.

 

I think you're dead on with your recommendations. I also eliminated any initial problems with my Aurender by going to a hardwired (CAT6) cable.

 

JC

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Me too, it was a fairly simple job to CAT6 the key rooms in our house myself, all leading back to a small HP Switch. I also have a wireless access point for the iPad and laptop, but almost everything else is CAT6 connected.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Me too, it was a fairly simple job to CAT6 the key rooms in our house myself, all leading back to a small HP Switch. I also have a wireless access point for the iPad and laptop, but almost everything else is CAT6 connected.

I have everything except iPads and iPhones hardwired Cat 7 myself.

With the purchase of my own "BYOB" Top of Line Modem ($199 retail vs. $15/mo rental from Comcast), I am getting 200 MBPS speed on all and have not had another one of the ip hdcp issues w/ aurender.

I ran the RGB6 and Cat 7 cables through the wall and ceiling where needed and added a 8 port switch and nice top of line Netgear X8 router.

Honestly worth the weekend project, a little drywall dust, and about $600 total investment all in!!

I should be set now for 3-5 years I hope before all tech gets out dated

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^^

 

CAT7 is capable of serious speed, I doubt if it will be realistically out dated in the next 20 years. Superseded yes, but out dated as in not fit for purpose I can't see that happening anytime soon, given CAT5 still 'runs' pretty much anything.

 

Sounds to me like a great job done that in terms of cabling should be sorted for a very long time.

 

;-)

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Im very interested in hearing the A10's DAC. I currently am using an Empirical Audio OSDE/SE with all the upgrades and it sounds pretty darn good. I like it better in some respects to the Berkley Ref and it loses out in some ways. I don't have MQA in the DAC obviously and the A10 is supposed to have it or will most probably have it. I do have about 300gb of well recorded 192 tracks/albums, but I stream Tidal on my Linn Kiko (bedroom) and for my personal audio. I like the all in one, but am interested in how the A10's DAC will sound compared to what I have now. Not expecting miracles, but if it's close enough I may go the A10 route instead of the N100H or a used N10. So many great choices in digital coming up soon.

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if they get the DAC right in the A10 and ensure that both 'sides' are properly isolated, it should be a fabulous box.

 

I think Aurender should make some kind of N10 with modular output(s) and no internal drives, so you could pick for example AES-EBU only and there would be no redundant circuitry, being modular you could change the output later if your DAC changes.

 

I'd have one.

 

 

Im very interested in hearing the A10's DAC. I currently am using an Empirical Audio OSDE/SE with all the upgrades and it sounds pretty darn good. I like it better in some respects to the Berkley Ref and it loses out in some ways. I don't have MQA in the DAC obviously and the A10 is supposed to have it or will most probably have it. I do have about 300gb of well recorded 192 tracks/albums, but I stream Tidal on my Linn Kiko (bedroom) and for my personal audio. I like the all in one, but am interested in how the A10's DAC will sound compared to what I have now. Not expecting miracles, but if it's close enough I may go the A10 route instead of the N100H or a used N10. So many great choices in digital coming up soon.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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I think Aurender should make some kind of N10 with modular output(s) and no internal drives, so you could pick for example AES-EBU only and there would be no redundant circuitry, being modular you could change the output later if your DAC changes.

 

I'd have one.

 

+1

 

...I could further downsize my system ending up in a 2 box audio set up (N10x via AES-EBU to Lyngdorf TDAI 2200).

 

 

I'd have one too....

 

 

All_Dig_System_15.jpg

mabe

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I'm really needing to find out the true difference between the 10 and the 100h. Also wondering how good their DAC will be in the A10

 

I bought the N100H, and loved it so much that I sold it after only two months...to buy a N10.

In both cases, all my music -- all PCM, both Redbook and high-rez -- was and is stored on the units' internal drives...no NAS.

 

With the same DAC, amp, speakers, I'd say the N10's sound quality is a definite step above the N100H, with greater depth, richness of sound with both voices and instruments, and a somewhat wider soundstage.

 

For me, another benefit of the N10 over the N100H is how the N10 has five different outputs vs. the single output on the N100H. That way, I can experiment with different outputs, run the Aurender into different DACs -- or different inputs in the same DAC -- to test them out.

 

If you can afford the N10, might be a better choice over the still-excellent N100H.

 

Dave, who does not like music servers like the A10 or amplifiers with built-in DACs since that creates limits in the ever-evolving area of digital-analog-converters

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Music is love, made audible.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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I bought the N100H, and loved it so much that I sold it after only two months...to buy a N10.

In both cases, all my music -- all PCM, both Redbook and high-rez -- was and is stored on the units' internal drives...no NAS.

 

With the same DAC, amp, speakers, I'd say the N10's sound quality is a definite step above the N100H, with greater depth, richness of sound with both voices and instruments, and a somewhat wider soundstage.

 

For me, another benefit of the N10 over the N100H is how the N10 has five different outputs vs. the single output on the N100H. That way, I can experiment with different outputs, run the Aurender into different DACs -- or different inputs in the same DAC -- to test them out.

 

If you can afford the N10, might be a better choice over the still-excellent N100H.

 

Dave, who does not like music servers like the A10 or amplifiers with built-in DACs since that creates limits in the ever-evolving area of digital-analog-converters

Thanks, I typically shy away from too many components built in also. I have a great DAC and the only reason I'll change is to get an MQA equipped one, however I'm not sure that MQA will sound better than what I have now. I have to see how much I can get the N10 or the N100H for and then make a decision. I'll be selling off my Steve Nuggent built Mac mini with Paul Hynes power supply along with the 300gb or so high res music. I'll need to figure out the best way to transfer it to a hard drive so I can then download it onto my new server when i get it. I'm still learning how to use the high end audio gear, lol.

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Fully agree with Cycleman. I used an X100L on a dCS Puccini DAC and clock for 2 years and then upgraded to the N10. In this combination the N10 is in a completely other league. Of course the improvements will be system dependent, specifically w.r.t. the DAC you're using. I thought the X100 sounded great (I still do), but the N10 improves on it in all respects, especially in tone, fluency, details and space. The N100 uses a linear PS, whereas the X100 has an SMPS, but they're in similar price brackets. So my guess is that the differences between N100 and N10 will be pretty similar. Do check it out and test for yourself!

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Re: Tidal on Aurender for classical.

Is there enough selection to make it worth the bucks?

Yep, I certainly think so! Lots of Decca, DG, Sony etc. Also loads of Jordi Savall in his usual fantastic recording quality. I would certainly try it. First month is for free anyway, at least in Europe.

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Sorry; maybe this has been covered...in 1 of the previous 24 pages. And I have tried to Google, but the answers don't seem to be quite what I'm looking for.

 

Is there an easy...re: fast(er) way; top copy files, from Aurender's HDD?

 

I know I can just do it over the network; but that seems s l o w. I know you can copy, from a USB drive to the HDD; but can you do the reverse?

 

All the "copy from Aurender" hits I get...seem to relate to copying to. Thanks

(CD)Lehner "This whole world, is wild at heart...and weird on top" - Lula Pace Fortune

 

MAIN System- ALLO USBridge Signature> Denafrips ARES II> Audiolab 6000a> PMC Twenty-Five 21s

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  • 2 weeks later...

New update for the unit. A clean shut down and faster operation. Some improvements to Tidal and radio play for European markets.

Aurender N10, Esoteric F-05 Integrated Amplifier, Synergistic Active USB, Oppo 203, Synergistic Atmosphere Level 3 UEF Speaker cables, Legacy Audio Focus SE, Rega Planar 10 turntable with Aphelion 2 cartridge.

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New update for the unit. A clean shut down and faster operation. Some improvements to Tidal and radio play for European markets.

Wow, internet radio has been missing for so long.. It works like a charm, listening to it right now! :-D Some channels (classical) even indicate 24 bits. But I guess the stream will still be MP3-based? Anyway, a great addition. I'm a happy camper!

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Ah just did the update on my N10 -- and I see that I read too quickly.

 

Internet radio only for some European markets, not for the US. Darn!

 

I have to send an email to Eric and see if they're looking to add the same radio functions in the US. Or could there be some kind of licensing problem...

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Music is love, made audible.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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