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The "Official" Aurender Discussion Thread


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ACHiPo - I would respectfully suggest that you use Aurender's available support; quoting from their website: "Sending a Remote Support Request through the Aurender App allows engineers to quickly diagnose and fix problems over the Internet."
Sorry to hear about your continuing problems. I agree with @audio.bill, Aurender might be able to help. It is also possible that something is wrong or has changed in your network connections.

Audio Bill and RW,

Thank you. I will follow up. I contacted Eric several weeks ago when I first noticed the issue, but then it seemed to resolve itself, so I didn't follow up.

 

I'm not sure if I can use the remote diagnostics if the Aurender isn't on the network, however. I'm going to try to connect it to my Comcast router to see if that resolves the problem. I'm pretty sure the wireless router it's currently plugged into works correctly, as I see my music server on the network and it's plugged into the same router, but running an Ethernet cable from the Comcast router to the Aurender should eliminate everything except the Aurender.

 

AC

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Audio Bill and RW,

Thank you. I will follow up. I contacted Eric several weeks ago when I first noticed the issue, but then it seemed to resolve itself, so I didn't follow up.

 

I'm not sure if I can use the remote diagnostics if the Aurender isn't on the network, however. I'm going to try to connect it to my Comcast router to see if that resolves the problem. I'm pretty sure the wireless router it's currently plugged into works correctly, as I see my music server on the network and it's plugged into the same router, but running an Ethernet cable from the Comcast router to the Aurender should eliminate everything except the Aurender.

 

AC

 

Sometimes a wireless node needs to be rebooted periodically.

Aurender N10, Esoteric F-05 Integrated Amplifier, Synergistic Active USB, Oppo 203, Synergistic Atmosphere Level 3 UEF Speaker cables, Legacy Audio Focus SE, Rega Planar 10 turntable with Aphelion 2 cartridge.

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Sometimes a wireless node needs to be rebooted periodically.

RW,

I'm not sure I follow what you mean by a "wireless node" (did I mention I'm pretty clueless about this stuff?). I've rebooted the wireless extension router that the music server and Aurender are plugged into (both soft and hard reboots) with no effect so far. Are you talking about rebooting my main Comcast router?

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Hard boot done, including unplugging for 30 sec. Still no USB. Getting concerned.

 

Can you take your unit to a dealer or friend and see what happens?

Aurender N10, Esoteric F-05 Integrated Amplifier, Synergistic Active USB, Oppo 203, Synergistic Atmosphere Level 3 UEF Speaker cables, Legacy Audio Focus SE, Rega Planar 10 turntable with Aphelion 2 cartridge.

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Can you take your unit to a dealer or friend and see what happens?

RW,

i bought it used, so I'm not counting on any dealer support. And I don't have any friends that can help. I'll run an Ethernet cable from my Comcast modem, then powercycle it if a direct connection doesn't fix it. I can also reinstall my old DAC to make sure the USB issue is not a DAC problem.

 

thanks,

AC

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Why shouldn't you get dealer support just because it's second hand?

 

The dealer's job should be to represent the product owners in their area... if they are so shallow as not to help you then go up the chain to the importer... if they are so shallow (can't believe that would ever happen) that they won't help you then go to the manufacturer, who will.

 

I see no reason whatsoever why a dealer wouldn't help in the interest of recruiting another potential customer... unless they are just a quick buck, small time hustler.

 

In short, ask a dealer for help, they will if they have an ounce of integrity.

 

 

RW,

i bought it used, so I'm not counting on any dealer support. And I don't have any friends that can help. I'll run an Ethernet cable from my Comcast modem, then powercycle it if a direct connection doesn't fix it. I can also reinstall my old DAC to make sure the USB issue is not a DAC problem.

 

thanks,

AC

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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r_w,

I may search out a local dealer if I'm unable to resolve it myself this weekend (I bought it used on another forum, so it was originally from another part of the country). Aurender's tech support guy, Eric, was helpful when I emailed him a few weeks ago, so that will likely be my next step if I'm unable to solve it myself with guidance from the CA community.

AC

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Yes Eric is a nice chap and very helpful, hope it all goes well for you, sounds a bit odd, sorry I can't solve it for you myself.

 

All the best.

 

r_w,

I may search out a local dealer if I'm unable to resolve it myself this weekend (I bought it used on another forum, so it was originally from another part of the country). Aurender's tech support guy, Eric, was helpful when I emailed him a few weeks ago, so that will likely be my next step if I'm unable to solve it myself with guidance from the CA community.

AC

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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RW,

i bought it used, so I'm not counting on any dealer support. And I don't have any friends that can help. I'll run an Ethernet cable from my Comcast modem, then powercycle it if a direct connection doesn't fix it. I can also reinstall my old DAC to make sure the USB issue is not a DAC problem.

 

thanks,

AC

 

Sent you a PM.

Aurender N10, Esoteric F-05 Integrated Amplifier, Synergistic Active USB, Oppo 203, Synergistic Atmosphere Level 3 UEF Speaker cables, Legacy Audio Focus SE, Rega Planar 10 turntable with Aphelion 2 cartridge.

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Seriously disappointed. I hope somehow this changes.

 

I saw a demo at 2016 Axpona with ROON and also talked to Eric from Aurender. Yes I can see some benefit of the Roon integration but I was really not all that impressed with what it brought to the table beyond what Aurender with Tidal already has. According to Eric in order to have Roon you basically need to incorporate and work within Roon's rules. In the end I think the Aurender Conductor app would be worse off - to some degree those with Aurender are a little spoiled since the interface is so good. I recently worked with an Auralic version of the Conductor and was not impressed. With Tidal integration there is more info available on a particular artist and this will probably just grow in the future. You are right to assume that Roon within Aurender is dead - it is.

2 Channel: Bricasti M20, 21 & M28 SE /Aurender N30SA and MC10 Master clock Treatments: Acoustical panels(F, S & R walls) Misc.: SR Master Fuses

Speakers: Martin Logan CLX ART (Dark Cherry) w/30# weights / 2-ML 212's 

Grounding: QKore 1&6 / Networking: SOtM switch, clock and Pwr Supply / AQ Diamond /SR Router Power: Furutech GTX-DNCF / Oyaide inwall  wire

Nordost: 2-QB8 III, QV2's, QK1's, QSine, QWave, QX4, TC Kones, Sort Fut & LIft / Full OG Loom / 3-QSource & 12-QPoints, QNet, V2 Network

Misc.: iPad 6 /Custom Rack  Media Rm: ML: 13A's, 2-Descent i's, 6- Vanquish, Focus / 3-Parasound A23 / Legacy iV-3 Ultra / 77" LG 4k OLED / Anthem AVM90 / Pioneer Elite DVD Nordost: Odin/T2/H2, BC Kones, H2 Network, V2 HDMI

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In the end I think the Aurender Conductor app would be worse off - to some degree those with Aurender are a little spoiled since the interface is so good.

 

Conductor wouldn't have to change at all. Roon's control app would be used instead.

Digital:  Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120

Amp & Speakers:  Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T

Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256

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r_w,

I may search out a local dealer if I'm unable to resolve it myself this weekend (I bought it used on another forum, so it was originally from another part of the country). Aurender's tech support guy, Eric, was helpful when I emailed him a few weeks ago, so that will likely be my next step if I'm unable to solve it myself with guidance from the CA community.

AC

Finally got a chance to try out a few different things and I'm gaining on it. The problem has something to do with my wireless extension router.

 

I pulled the wireless extension router out of my electronics closet and hooked it up to the Comcast router. Confirmed that it functioned properly (could connect to internet wirelessly through the extension router via iPad).

 

I pulled the Aurender out of my rack and took it into the kitchen (where my Comcast router is). Confirmed everything functions correctly regardless of whether I was plugged into the wireless extension or the Comcast router directly. I could access the Aurender via iPad on either wireless network. I also confirmed I could access the Aurender's files from my desktop wirelessly connected to either router.

 

I then reinstalled everything, and while I now get an IP address on my Aurender (and can play USB again!), I can't connect to the Aurender on my iPad or see the Aurender on my Music Server or desktop through either wireless router.

 

So, the problem must be that when the wireless extension router is not physically connected to the Comcast router. Of course, having a 75' Ethernet cable running through the hallway is not a long term solution, but I'm going to pick up a long cable and see if I can get everything stable with it hardwired. Hopefully it will stay that way once I unplug the long Ethernet cable, since it worked ok for several months.

 

Pretty weird! (especially the USB output bug!)

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Finally got a chance to try out a few different things and I'm gaining on it. The problem has something to do with my wireless extension router.

 

I pulled the wireless extension router out of my electronics closet and hooked it up to the Comcast router. Confirmed that it functioned properly (could connect to internet wirelessly through the extension router via iPad).

 

I pulled the Aurender out of my rack and took it into the kitchen (where my Comcast router is). Confirmed everything functions correctly regardless of whether I was plugged into the wireless extension or the Comcast router directly. I could access the Aurender via iPad on either wireless network. I also confirmed I could access the Aurender's files from my desktop wirelessly connected to either router.

 

I then reinstalled everything, and while I now get an IP address on my Aurender (and can play USB again!), I can't connect to the Aurender on my iPad or see the Aurender on my Music Server or desktop through either wireless router.

 

So, the problem must be that when the wireless extension router is not physically connected to the Comcast router. Of course, having a 75' Ethernet cable running through the hallway is not a long term solution, but I'm going to pick up a long cable and see if I can get everything stable with it hardwired. Hopefully it will stay that way once I unplug the long Ethernet cable, since it worked ok for several months.

 

Pretty weird! (especially the USB output bug!)

 

Great! Now if you own your property, consider hiring an experience electrician to permanently install the Ethernet cable for you. Someone used to installing Ethernet cable will do a professional and great looking job and it won't cost too much (depending upon the property :) ).

Aurender N10, Esoteric F-05 Integrated Amplifier, Synergistic Active USB, Oppo 203, Synergistic Atmosphere Level 3 UEF Speaker cables, Legacy Audio Focus SE, Rega Planar 10 turntable with Aphelion 2 cartridge.

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Great! Now if you own your property, consider hiring an experience electrician to permanently install the Ethernet cable for you. Someone used to installing Ethernet cable will do a professional and great looking job and it won't cost too much (depending upon the property :) ).

Picked up a 100' Cat6A cable, but no success (yet). My laptop and desktop both said they had an IP conflict. Now we're gettin' somewhere!

 

Next thing for me to try is powering down all my devices, and powering them back on one by one starting with the Comcast router and Aurender (plugged in with Eternet).

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Glad that you were able to determine the source of the problem and that there's no issue with your Aurender!

 

Me too.....8-}

 

Kenreau

Synology NAS> Aurender W20> AQ Wel AES/XLR> Devialet 200> AQ Castle Rock Bi-Wire> Vandersteen 5As.

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Picked up a 100' Cat6A cable, but no success (yet). My laptop and desktop both said they had an IP conflict. Now we're gettin' somewhere!

 

Next thing for me to try is powering down all my devices, and powering them back on one by one starting with the Comcast router and Aurender (plugged in with Eternet).

 

Me too.....8-}

 

Kenreau

 

Me three!!!!

 

Well, the Aurender is fine. When I rebooted the Comcast router, followed by the Aurender (connected via Cat6a to the Comcast router) everything works--iPad, desktop, and MS-3 can all see and interact with the Aurender. However if I try going back to how it was--Aurender plugged into WiFi extension router, I can no longer connect AND I get an IP conflict message on my laptop.

 

Soooo... I created a bunch more playlists and left the Aurender in random mode so at least I can listen to a variety of music without hard connection to the Comcast router. Kinda defeats the purpose of the fancy UI of the Aurender, though, so I need to figure out if I go back to the MS-3 as with JRiver or Foobar, which require me to figure out a remote option (or run without one, which isn't very attractive), move the Comcast router into my electronics closet, or permanently install Ethernet between the electronics closet and the kitchen. I'm leaning toward the last option, but it's gonna be a pain (and/or expensive) as I have about 65' of finished space between my electronics closet and the kitchen cabinet with the router.

 

Any suggestions on how I can go back to the good old days of having everything work would be GREATLY appreciated!

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You could try giving the Aurender a fixed IP address: use web browser to the Aurender IP address (or network name) and add /network, just make sure you remember the number you give it, you can change it back to DHCP later if you wish via the same page.

 

It might be that something else has got the same IP as the Aurender on the network, by specifying your own fixed IP you can solve the issue, but obviously you need to make sure you don't give it an IP that something else is using, or you won't solve the problem.

If you are not good with IT best to get someone who is to try this for you... The best fix would be to have everything set to DHCP and set the reserved IPs on the DHCP router... you might have two routers trying to allocate IPs, which is not a good thing at all, there should be only one DHCP server and this usually resolves all conflicts automatically. You might have two devices internally set to the same fixed IP, hence a conflict that DHCP can't automatically fix for you.

 

Sorry if that all sounded double dutch, but I'm fairly confident the solution lies above.

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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It might be that something else has got the same IP as the Aurender on the network, by specifying your own fixed IP you can solve the issue, but obviously you need to make sure you don't give it an IP that something else is using, or you won't solve the problem.

 

What might help here is an iOS app called Fing.

 

This free app shows all the active IPs on your network and the name of each device connected through that IP.

 

Fing - fun and useful even if, sorry you do, no problems on your network.

 

Dave, who first read about Fing the other day here on CA

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

Music is love, made audible.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

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What might help here is an iOS app called Fing.

 

This free app shows all the active IPs on your network and the name of each device connected through that IP.

 

Fing - fun and useful even if, sorry you do, no problems on your network.

 

Dave, who first read about Fing the other day here on CA

I'll download Fing and give it a shot. I know enough about IT stuff to be dangerous, so I proceed cautiously on these things.

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You could try giving the Aurender a fixed IP address: use web browser to the Aurender IP address (or network name) and add /network, just make sure you remember the number you give it, you can change it back to DHCP later if you wish via the same page.

 

It might be that something else has got the same IP as the Aurender on the network, by specifying your own fixed IP you can solve the issue, but obviously you need to make sure you don't give it an IP that something else is using, or you won't solve the problem.

If you are not good with IT best to get someone who is to try this for you... The best fix would be to have everything set to DHCP and set the reserved IPs on the DHCP router... you might have two routers trying to allocate IPs, which is not a good thing at all, there should be only one DHCP server and this usually resolves all conflicts automatically. You might have two devices internally set to the same fixed IP, hence a conflict that DHCP can't automatically fix for you.

 

Sorry if that all sounded double dutch, but I'm fairly confident the solution lies above.

r_w,

What you say makes sense (at least the parts that I understand). Thanks. I definitely think you're on the right track. I'll post updates as I progress.

 

AC

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I would strongly suggest hardwiring the Aurender (and any other media devices). I actually thing it is pretty easy to run either RGB 6 (move Comcast modem) or Cat 6/7 (from modem to closet) through the wall and or ceiling so that you can have direct connection in the media closet.

Also, I recently bought the top of the line Arris Modem at Best Buy ( not a router or combo, but a stand alone modem) and I returned the comcast one (saves you about $15/ month - so in a year it pays for itself and in 3-4 years you really make out - should last and not be outdated for that long).

My internet (wired and wireless) speeds have quadrupled ever since and not one problem with Aurender IP since.

( I have consistently been getting 200 Mbps ever since from Comcast Blast - which is rated as 150 Mbps) and no more instability issues.)

Basically the comcast modems and routers are about 2-3 years behind in current technology and speed / throughput.

I did also but the top of the line Netgear Nighthawk X8 router which also has 6 Gigbit Ethernet ports on it, but a decent Netgear switch and a less expensive router would work just as well.

Just a suggestion, but I was amazed at what a difference the BYO modem has made (much more than the router, I could have continued using my apple time machine with the new Arris modem and an 8 port switch and have almost the same results

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