Building a DIY Music Server

[Downtheline]

2 minutes ago, Tatomek7 said:

Manual of ASUS C621 e Sage Motherboard

Oh that manual! Thanks 👍

[Blackmorec]

On 8/9/2020 at 2:27 AM, Nenon said:

 

Just a quick update:

I swapped the positions of the etherREGEN and my modified Buffalo switch. Now my server is connected directly to the Buffalo like this:

Arris SB8200 modem --(copper)--> Ubiquiti Router --(copper)--> etherRegen (fiber with Fintech transceivers)--> Buffalo switch--(copper)--> server. 

 

That turned out to be a shocking improvement! I expected a small difference that makes me do many A/B comparisons until I decide if I like one better than the other. Not at all. 

 

I just picked a random Qobuz track for the test. It just happened to be this one:
artist: The Ray Brown All Stars

track: You Don't Know Me
album: Don't Forget The Blues

But I also listened to different styles music after that to make sure it's not just that track that sounded better

 

It took about 5 seconds from the track to hear how much better the new combination was. By the 14th second I was convinced what I heard the first 5 seconds was true. After 30 seconds there was no doubts at all. We've all been there, and you probably know what I am talking about. Towards the end of the track I knew I had a new reference! Obviously I went back and forth 5 or 6 times to double/triple/quadruple/quintuple check and never doubted even for a second which one was better. Never heard Qobuz sound so good! Going back to do some more critical listening now... 

 

[genvirt]

Hi!

Finally I decided what I’ll be to build (this is Nenon’s config mostly), so here is a stuff that I suppose to use:

 

Model	Brand	Part Name	##
H5 2nd Gen Fanless PC Case	HDPlex	PC case	1
HDPLEX 800W DC-ATX with 16V-63VDC Input	HDPlex	PSU for DC-ATX	2
ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero AMD Ryzen	ASUS	Motherbord	3
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X	AMD	CPU  (65W)	4
Apacer ECC RAM	Apacer	Memory	5
USB CARD XE	JCat	USB card	6
NET CARD XE	JCat	NET card	7
I2S Bridge	PinkFaun	I2S card	8

 

 

So, all PCI  cards will be powering by external LPS with 3 rails (not decided yet which one - probably Teddy Pardo)

 

So first step is to build a PC, and here I need a bit help.

I made some diagram with pointed “?” sign where I’m lost or not sure for best option.

The main question is what is a best or possible option to power this it important for ordering LPS.

Larry (HDPlex) said that for 800w 19v is needed with high power as possible.
So,what better  to use only one rail LPS and then separate on  800w connection?_

(if yes how exactly and right way to separate in for 800w using)

Or power all from two separated rail on LPS?

And a bit question about wiring.

Hope I put all things clear:)

Thanks for a help!

 

p.s. some how all text get to the left - couldn’t  improve it - sorry

[Exocer]

6 hours ago, genvirt said:

Hi!

Finally I decided what I’ll be to build (this is Nenon’s config mostly), so here is a stuff that I suppose to use:

 

Model	Brand	Part Name	##
H5 2nd Gen Fanless PC Case	HDPlex	PC case	1
HDPLEX 800W DC-ATX with 16V-63VDC Input	HDPlex	PSU for DC-ATX	2
ASUS ROG Crosshair VII Hero AMD Ryzen	ASUS	Motherbord	3
AMD Ryzen 7 3700X	AMD	CPU  (65W)	4
Apacer ECC RAM	Apacer	Memory	5
USB CARD XE	JCat	USB card	6
NET CARD XE	JCat	NET card	7
I2S Bridge	PinkFaun	I2S card	8

 

 

So, all PCI  cards will be powering by external LPS with 3 rails (not decided yet which one - probably Teddy Pardo)

 

So first step is to build a PC, and here I need a bit help.

I made some diagram with pointed “?” sign where I’m lost or not sure for best option.

The main question is what is a best or possible option to power this it important for ordering LPS.

Larry (HDPlex) said that for 800w 19v is needed with high power as possible.
So,what better  to use only one rail LPS and then separate on  800w connection?_

(if yes how exactly and right way to separate in for 800w using)

Or power all from two separated rail on LPS?

And a bit question about wiring.

Hope I put all things clear:)

Thanks for a help!

 

p.s. some how all text get to the left - couldn’t  improve it - sorry

First off, awesome build plans!
 

What i've seen most people do (and what I plan to do) is as follows:

 

1. Source one of the 6-pin DC Inputs with a high quality LPS (Sean Jacobs, Paul Hynes etc). Look for around 19V/10A output for this LPSU.

 

2. In my case, I will feed the 8-Pin EPS input directly from my LPSU. There should be healthy current reserves for this rail... around 10-12A if not more if possible.

 

Per my understanding, the 4-Pin 12v input is not mandatory and is for extreme overclocking IIRC.

[Downtheline]

6 hours ago, genvirt said:

power all from two separated rail on LPS

I am going this direction with a dual rail PH power supply (1 for atx, the other for eps). My stopgap is using a keces p8 20v/8a. This is working well.

 

You may need a graphics card unless you will do your os and player management remotely. 

 

What will you use for the operating system? Will you put it on a m2 drive?

 

 

[genvirt]

5 minutes ago, Exocer said:

First off, awesome build plans!
 

What i've seen most people do (and what I plan to do) is as follows:

 

1. Source one of the 6-pin DC Inputs with a high quality LPS (Sean Jacobs, Paul Hynes etc). Look for around 19V/10A output for this LPSU.

 

2. In my case, I will feed the 8-Pin EPS input directly from my LPSU. There should be healthy current reserves for this rail... around 10-12A if not more if possible.

 

Per my understanding, the 4-Pin 12v input is not mandatory and is for extreme overclocking IIRC.

Thank You!

yes Paul Hynes write me that two rail LPS of 19v 10A will be fine.

Do I understand right that On Your scenario second part of HDPlex not needed?   
By the way:) Is here no need some power on/ reset button? Just not really noticed any sign on HDPlex chassis.... 

[genvirt]

3 minutes ago, Downtheline said:

I am going this direction with a dual rail PH power supply (1 for atx, the other for eps). My stopgap is using a keces p8 20v/8a. This is working well.

 

You may need a graphics card unless you will do your os and player management remotely. 

 

What will you use for the operating system? Will you put it on a m2 drive?

 

 

I’m using only Euphony Stilus OS and for me is the best.

So no GC needed

 

[Exocer]

Just now, genvirt said:

Thank You!

yes Paul Hynes write me that two rail LPS of 19v 10A will be fine.

Do I understand right that On Your scenario second part of HDPlex not needed?   
By the way:) Is here no need some power on/ reset button? Just not really noticed any sign on HDPlex chassis.... 

 

Paul Hynes is a good choice.

That is an interesting question you pose. I don't think i've seen others go this route, with two 19v 10A rails powering the HDPlex 800W DC-ATX device.

 

You are correct, in my case I would use the HDPlex for the 24-Pin ATX connector only. Maybe the 5v out to my network card as well until I get a dedicated audiophile network card which will use external power (like the JCAT you will use).

 

[genvirt]

1 minute ago, Exocer said:

 

Paul Hynes is a good choice.

That is an interesting question you pose. I don't think i've seen others go this route, with two 19v 10A rails powering the HDPlex 800W DC-ATX device.

 

You are correct, in my case I would use the HDPlex for the 24-Pin ATX connector only. Maybe the 5v out to my network card as well until I get a dedicated audiophile network card which will use external power (like the JCAT you will use).

 

Ok, let’s see what other react... hope this config (that ordered already not a bit a waste:))),  but more is not less is more:) hhh

btw JCat I suppose should get with JCat XE Net cards as they do with USB one, hope in couple of month it came and I’ll get it. Now I’ve Usb femto and this is very good.

[Downtheline]

6 minutes ago, genvirt said:

no GC needed

Please forgive my ignorance, as I have not used euphony, only audiolinux, gentooplayer and windows.  

 

You are able to log on completely remotely? Also are no bios adjustments necessary- or can they be done in a different way without some graphics? 

[Blackmorec]

Hmmm...don’t know what happened to my original reply to Nenon’s articles about his highly modified Buffalo switch, but here again are my observations. 

 

Firstly thanks for posting such fascinating and ground breaking work....while I’m not skilled at DIY, I always find such results really enlightening in the quest to understand where the secrets lie in achieving better SQ from digital streaming. 

I am delighted that the final result exceeded the sound quality of 4 Buffalo switches ganged together in series.....something I saw as an interim and frankly rather inelegant solution given the number of cables, connections and power supplies involved.  

 

I was also intrigued by the observations regarding the type of improvements achieved, that are better described in terms of listener response rather than a more typical hi-fi oriented dialog. I personally find this type of upgrade far more fundamentally enjoyable and ‘sustained’ vs the more ‘cosmetic’ upgrades that add more of something that is soon assimilated by the listener. The former improves the enjoyment level of every listening session over long periods whereas the latter quickly becomes the norm and enjoyment levels remain more or less the same once the listener acclimatises to the improved cosmetics.

 

For me at least, a hi-fi system is really achieving outstanding results when every listening session is anticipated with a degree of excitement, similar to a live event. When you expect to experience something new,  something that gets the emotions flowing and that leaves you highly satisfied, without any sense of let down or dissatisfaction and with the sweet anticipation of the next session, your system is ticking all the boxes.   

 

 

[genvirt]

2 hours ago, Downtheline said:

Please forgive my ignorance, as I have not used euphony, only audiolinux, gentooplayer and windows.  

 

You are able to log on completely remotely? Also are no bios adjustments necessary- or can they be done in a different way without some graphics? 

Yes, actually You no need GC, and Euphony is an OS, and I’m simply boot from DOK (in my case ) and manage all from any device that on WiFi connected. PC should be wire to the net (possibly without too I think).

Here You can try it freely one month https://euphony-audio.com/euphony-stylus-operating-system/ 

worth trying:) 

[genvirt]

Will this Thermal paste is OK and amount enough?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002CQU14A&pd_rd_w=F4utD&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=dtnpv&pf_rd_r=190YCVQEH02ZV37TMVGV&pd_rd_r=884da219-9c0e-43b1-9cc8-b34b951f8d8a&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlpGWVVTU1NTQ05IJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE3ODkxMTZWQlZTVDI5RUxUTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDQ5MTkzMkFOQ0JTRDBZMjlXRyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or better to use this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AZCEI3EMXUPTH&psc=1

will 1g enough for HDPlex cooling pipes ?
 

[Exocer]

20 minutes ago, genvirt said:

Will this Thermal paste is OK and amount enough?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002CQU14A/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B002CQU14A&pd_rd_w=F4utD&pf_rd_p=48d372c1-f7e1-4b8b-9d02-4bd86f5158c5&pd_rd_wg=dtnpv&pf_rd_r=190YCVQEH02ZV37TMVGV&pd_rd_r=884da219-9c0e-43b1-9cc8-b34b951f8d8a&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlpGWVVTU1NTQ05IJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDE3ODkxMTZWQlZTVDI5RUxUTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDQ5MTkzMkFOQ0JTRDBZMjlXRyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or better to use this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AZCEI3EMXUPTH&psc=1

will 1g enough for HDPlex cooling pipes ?
 

I've had great luck with this thermal paste although I never thought to ask here:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Gr.izzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

 

It lowered temps (with the same config) from 58c down to 50c in my setup. Now i'm in the mid to high 30s.

[genvirt]

11 hours ago, Exocer said:

I've had great luck with this thermal paste although I never thought to ask here:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Gr.izzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

 

It lowered temps (with the same config) from 58c down to 50c in my setup. Now i'm in the mid to high 30s.

Great! But what amount to take for using it not only for CPU, but for entire cooling of HDPlex chassis? 1g it seems to be not much...

[dminches]

2 hours ago, genvirt said:

Great! But what amount to take for using it not only for CPU, but for entire cooling of HDPlex chassis? 1g it seems to be not much...

 

The case comes with thermal paste.  However, I have always needed more.

 

[hols]

On 8/8/2020 at 10:05 AM, Nenon said:

I will be modifying the clock on one more Buffalo and hopefully will be able to do some interesting tests.

For example, what happens when you connect two Buffalos with upgraded clocks together? How do they compare to the M12 gold switch which I have access to and will be testing soon? And what if you combine two Buffalos with ultraOCXO clocks with the M12 Gold switch? I mean other than getting divorced and filing for bankruptcy...

I am only about half as mad as Nenon in that I only modify the clock but not the other listed mods of the Buffalo but I happen to have modded two switch and I would like to share share my brief observation below. 

 

First the connection is like this

1st 2016---2nd2016--1st S100--2ndS100--SOtM switch with HQplayer PC connected to first switch(1st2016), NAA PC connected to last switch(SOtM), and modem & Ubiquiti-x-sfp connected to second switch in the chain(2nd2016)

My previous configuration is  1stS100---2ndS100---SOtM with HQplayer connected to first switch in the chain, internet access connected to second switch and NAA PC connected to last switch.

The Buffalo BS-GS2016 is modified by a local company( which also modified the SOtM switches) by adding a 25MHz OCXO clock. I have my two Buffalo switches modified and burned in for about 2weeks and I guess its about time to have a brief comparison. Hopefully when the Coronavirus situation got more stabilised we can arrange more audiophiles to listen. And I must thank SeeTeeYou for his posts on the Buffalo switch.

I have reported earlier that using the S100 switch brought a revolutionary change to the sound and it is impossible to take them off. The main improvement is much improved dynamics while the SOtM helps to give a more beautiful high and mids. And it is soon realized that the S100 becomes the more dominating switch in the chain.

 

First impression on swabbing from two S100 to two 2016 is that there is a sweetness in the sound that is not present in s100. The dynamics is maintained or even strengthened because the body of the sound is richer than before. The most notable change is that you can turn up the volume and still can enjoy the sound and experience the attacks and excitement without fear at all. Returning to two S100 the sound is more solid and smooth(probably because they have been burned in for 7 months and also reflects the sound of the more sturdy chassis). I would prefer the 2016 than the S100 because of its richer presentations. Using one 2016 already gives you the same character but using two is definitely a revelation. Everything just seems to be present around you. The presence is much better with two 2016. What happens if the four are put together in series? Yes there is still an additive effect and SQ is also on the positive side. There is an easiness in the sound and everything come up so sure so accurate and fluent. There is no hint of any slowness or muffled sound or harshness that are sometimes associated with over-cleansing. And can I take out the SOtM? Yes I can and still live very happily with the sound. There is only very slight diminished high frequency only noticeable on critical listening.

Overall very impressed with the clock-modded 2016. The only worry is that is it a bit too dominant ? Will need to reassess after further burning.

Will the Telegartner M12 gold modify the picture.? I have auditioned the M12 gold back few months ago. My impression is it gives a beautiful sound but the sound is a bit slow and reduced the dynamics of the S100 and the two are not compatible in my system. YMMV

[seeteeyou]

5 hours ago, hols said:

Hopefully when the Coronavirus situation got more stabilised we can arrange more audiophiles to listen. And I must thank SeeTeeYou for his posts on the Buffalo switch.

 

Many thanks for your kind words.

 

Something new will be available from JCAT in the future, maybe their NET CARD XE could be yet another potential candidate for further improvements?

 

http://jplay.eu/forum/index.php?/topic/3543-tidal-playback-with-bubbleupnpjplay-femto/#entry52208

Quote

In my system TIDAL outperforms local files now. Not by a small margin. Sth that not that far ago I thought would not happen.

 

http://jplay.eu/forum/index.php?/topic/3543-tidal-playback-with-bubbleupnpjplay-femto/#entry52209

Quote

Thanks to this guy over here:

 

Regarding that 25MHz OCXO clock, @romaz already talked about the following SiTIME SiT5711A several months ago

 

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/page/644/?tab=comments#comment-1039516  

On 3/31/2020 at 6:40 AM, romaz said:

According to Marcin, it uses a new OCXO rated at 5ppb but what he found to be the more important characteristic is that this clock is somehow immune to vibrations.  Apparently but not surprisingly, Marcin and his OEM (Adnaco) found that a high performance clock in a vibratory environment has the potential to perform more poorly than a lower performance clock in a vibration-free environment and so while others may be touting OCXOs with better lab measurements under ideal conditions, this card was designed to function optimally under real world conditions.

 

Minimum quantities from Digi-Key turned out to be 100 per order, though other links seemed to have specify 1 instead

 

https://www.digikey.com/products/en?FV=-5|73188

 

Tape & Reel (TR) Packaging

https://www.elementsearch.com/sitime-sit5711ai-mw-33n-25-000000f-oscillators

 

Cut Tape (CT) Packaging

https://www.elementsearch.com/sitime-sit5711ai-qw-33n-25-000000f-oscillators

 

Digi-Reel Packaging

https://www.elementsearch.com/sitime-sit5711ai-tw-33n-25-000000f-oscillators

 

1-220MHz恒温晶振OCXO 高精度±5ppb 9x7mm尺寸 SIT5711 SIT5712

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=585481394277

 

If that particular $108.38 pricing from Element Search (located @ California) were true and no counterfeit products were involved, then it wouldn't cost THAT much more when compared to this Connor-Winfield OH4610LF inside either Buffalo BS-GS2016 or SOtM sNH-10G modified by Ediscreation

 

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/connor-winfield/OH4610LF-025.0M/CW899-ND/5641634

 

---

 

Once we've got access to more than one network card on each machine, then we could consider something similar to this IPv4 / IPv6 segmentation

 

https://asoyaji.blogspot.com/2020/01/hqplayer.html

 

I believe that Matthew could figure out how to bind that JCAT NET CARD XE to HQPlayer / NAA processes exclusively while everything else would go through LOB (LAN on Board) accordingly

 

https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/210982/bind-unix-program-to-specific-network-interface

https://superuser.com/questions/241178/how-to-use-different-network-interfaces-for-different-processes

 

Users of Windows 10 should be able to take advantage of something like that as well

 

https://r1ch.net/projects/forcebindip

https://www.raymond.cc/blog/bind-windows-application-to-specific-network-adapter-with-forcebindip

 

---

 

If you're having enough ViaBlue EP-7S and Telegärtner MFP8 CAT.8.1 connectors, maybe I'll bring 4 boxes to visit you after the pandemic and let's have some fun with this DC PoE (passive PoE for 5V / 12V etc.)

 

https://audiophilestyle.com/forums/topic/30376-a-novel-way-to-massively-improve-the-sq-of-computer-audio-streaming/page/666/?tab=comments#comment-1059624

[cool_chris]

I must say I followed Nenon recommendation with the use of Buffalo BSGS 2016.

With his kind help I was able to get 2 of them. I dont think they are still available. All sold out.

I powered them with Vinnie Rossi great „mini” supercapacitor supplys rated 5v / 3A only !

Many powered them with 12v , but I recommend 5 v with 3A or more.

I think I can already say It is by far the bigest SQ gain I have ever experienced .

I wanted to thank Nenon for discovering soch a great improvements for us, testing many options and sharing results with all of us.
I see that Hols confirmed it already few posts above , so do I. 
 

My next step will be to improve both clocks with the use of OXCO as Nenon and Hols already did with great result.

Will report my experience .

 

[lwr]

Did you try both 12V and 5V and find that 12V sounded better, or just go with 5V and stick with it?

 

Which OXCO are you planning to use?

1 hour ago, cool_chris said:

I must say I followed Nenon recommendation with the use of Buffalo BSGS 2016.

With his kind help I was able to get 2 of them. I dont think they are still available. All sold out.

I powered them with Vinnie Rossi great „mini” supercapacitor supplys rated 5v / 3A only !

Many powered them with 12v , but I recommend 5 v with 3A or more.

I think I can already say It is by far the bigest SQ gain I have ever experienced .

I wanted to thank Nenon for discovering soch a great improvements for us, testing many options and sharing results with all of us.
I see that Hols confirmed it already few posts above , so do I. 
 

My next step will be to improve both clocks with the use of OXCO as Nenon and Hols already did with great result.

Will report my experience .

 

 

[cool_chris]

8 hours ago, lwr said:

Did you try both 12V and 5V and find that 12V sounded better, or just go with 5V and stick with it?

 

Which OXCO are you planning to use?

 

Tried both . 12 v is more precise and focused but adds little more upper fequencies that is aready to much in my system.
5v is just a little less focused but it has an excellent musicality , flow and easyness in the presentation.

I think the take home message is : try all voltages from 5 v to 12v and pick the one that fits your system / ears best !

Hols sounds to be very happy with his local OCXO upgrade shop, Nenon did install PinkFaun ultra OCXO himself and is enthusiastic about that, but it is by far the most expensive one ( it might be the best but that needs to be confirmed by testing )

I am considering few options . Educating myself with different clock manufacturers and will report effects here.

I tried four PP modified zyxel swiches before and they were quite good, got Ether Regen that also was very good , added Ubiquiti xrouter that acts as a switch only, but only the last change with modified Buffalows elevated my system so many levels up.

 

The use of Buffalo BSGS 2016 / or Melco S100 / recommended by Nenon , Romaz, Hols and few others is probably one of the very best upgrates one can do to the audio system this time .

 

[lwr]

1 hour ago, cool_chris said:

Tried both . 12 v is more precise and focused but adds little more upper fequencies that is aready to much in my system.
5v is just a little less focused but it has an excellent musicality , flow and easyness in the presentation.

I think the take home message is : try all voltages from 5 v to 12v and pick the one that fits your system / ears best !

Hols sounds to be very happy with his local OCXO upgrade shop, Nenon did install PinkFaun ultra OCXO himself and is enthusiastic about that, but it is by far the most expensive one ( it might be the best but that needs to be confirmed by testing )

I am considering few options . Educating myself with different clock manufacturers and will report effects here.

I tried four PP modified zyxel swiches before and they were quite good, got Ether Regen that also was very good , added Ubiquiti xrouter that acts as a switch only, but only the last change with modified Buffalows elevated my system so many levels up.

 

The use of Buffalo BSGS 2016 / or Melco S100 / recommended by Nenon , Romaz, Hols and few others is probably one of the very best upgrates one can do to the audio system this time .

 

 

1 hour ago, cool_chris said:

Tried both . 12 v is more precise and focused but adds little more upper fequencies that is aready to much in my system.
5v is just a little less focused but it has an excellent musicality , flow and easyness in the presentation.

I think the take home message is : try all voltages from 5 v to 12v and pick the one that fits your system / ears best !

Hols sounds to be very happy with his local OCXO upgrade shop, Nenon did install PinkFaun ultra OCXO himself and is enthusiastic about that, but it is by far the most expensive one ( it might be the best but that needs to be confirmed by testing )

I am considering few options . Educating myself with different clock manufacturers and will report effects here.

I tried four PP modified zyxel swiches before and they were quite good, got Ether Regen that also was very good , added Ubiquiti xrouter that acts as a switch only, but only the last change with modified Buffalows elevated my system so many levels up.

 

The use of Buffalo BSGS 2016 / or Melco S100 / recommended by Nenon , Romaz, Hols and few others is probably one of the very best upgrates one can do to the audio system this time .

 

Thanks for your reply.  I’m looking forward  to following your progress.

 

 

[genvirt]

Hi!

 

I'm step by step come closer to begin my project.

One of the steps is to build DIY cabling from LPS to my HDPlex 800w and to ESP socket on mother board and all internal wiering (24 atx and so on).

So, LPS to ATX/ESP wires use 6 or 8 pins on end connection, but LPS out use only 2 (1 is ground and 2 is positive in case of 3 pin output). So do I understand right that all wires should be connected as on pic attached?

Just curious - why get 3 or 4 wire that connected to one LPS output pin instead make some bridging on ATX/ESP connector part? Is here some reason (not enough place of pin connector for bridging?)?

When making cable (as shown on pic) - Do I need twist all wires together a bit or twist  ground wires apart and positive wires apart and then twist all for further shielding (I'll going to use shielding that Nenon has explain)? (hope this question clear...)

 

Do it is a good idea to shield 24 pin ATX cable or just arrange the wires: 24 wires separated by 8 for example.

 

I thought too about doing SATA cable for SSD connection - somebody had experience with such kind of cable?

If Yes - it'll be kind of providing scheme and "right" wire gauge? (I'm a bit hesitate which gauge will right for this - regular one is 30, but I thought about 26-24).

(Yes using M.2_2 SSD is preferable from SQ point, but I still have one SDD 2GB and add a new one now not really in my basket:), maybe later).

 

Thanks a lot!

 

 

 

 

[genvirt]

To continue my thoughts about adding M.2_2 ssd (2gb) for music library using only, so any advice which brand and model to choose for better SQ?
here is some:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D29JQ24/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFZXR1B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

(This one cheaper , but I think that it is an older model)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTQTNVR/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_expsub_1?spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlRNRjlWVERZOTk5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTU4MTM0MzhQUVBXWkJMVjZJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNjM2NDUxWDZQRE5NT1o1QTUxJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHVjX21yYWkmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

 

Thanks!

[ASRMichael]

24 minutes ago, genvirt said:

To continue my thoughts about adding M.2_2 ssd (2gb) for music library using only, so any advice which brand and model to choose for better SQ?
here is some:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D29JQ24/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFZXR1B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

(This one cheaper , but I think that it is an older model)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MTQTNVR/ref=pd_luc_rh_sspa_dk_huc_pt_expsub_1?spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMlRNRjlWVERZOTk5JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTU4MTM0MzhQUVBXWkJMVjZJJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyNjM2NDUxWDZQRE5NT1o1QTUxJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfaHVjX21yYWkmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl&th=1

 

Thanks!

Are you referring to M.2 for storage/data? Or for OS?
 

If storage, that’s a tough question, I can’t imagine many DIYers trying out various M.2’s. Have you considered buying a NAS drive? Or you may even have one. I would use a NAS. IMHO Less noise this way = better SQ.