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About Nenon

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  1. 5 hours later, and I am still listening to Qobuz :). That's a good sign. That switch with a PinkFaun ultraOCXO clock is sounding pretty good. I'll post more after I spend some time with it. But I am planning to replace the clock on one more Buffalo; and try two Buffalos with upgraded clocks (one is for a friend, but I will have the opportunity to test it). Those clocks are expensive, but they don't fail to surprise me every time I try them. We are reaching the price of the M12 Gold switch. As a matter of fact, if the timing works in my favor, I would be able to test the M12 Gold switch in my system while I have the two Buffalos with upgraded clocks. I am super curious what happens when you connect two Buffalo switches with ultraOCXO clocks, one M12 Gold, and the etherREGEN together :). It's complete madness, but why not if I have a chance to do it... It would also be interesting to compare the M12 Gold with those Buffalos with upgraded clocks. However, now that I am playing in the bigger league, I may not have the time (or the motivation) to test the smaller 8-port Buffalos. If anyone is interested in those two 8-port switches, send me a PM. Too many Buffalos in my backyard :).
  2. The main reason some motherboards have more connectors is to be able to provide more current to the CPU, for more power hungry CPUs or for overclocking. The typical wire going to the EPS is 18 AWG. 4 x 18 AWG wires give you about 12 AWG combined gauge. But if you use both connectors, that would be 8 x 18 AWG wires, which is around 9 AWG. The motherboard Taiko Extreme has 3 connectors - 2 x 8 pins, and 1 x 6 pin, plus 2 of the wires from the ATX connector go to the same +12V DC rail. So that's total of 13 x 18 AWG wires, which is around 7 AWG combined wire gauge. No wonder why Taiko Extreme users report that thick power cords work really good! In your case, you have to look at multiple factors. How many Watts or Amps is your power supply? How thick are the power supply wires? What processor are you using? How are you using the CPU? Are you overclocking or underclocking? Are you upsampling? And so on... For most cases just using one EPS connector is good enough. I suspect that's the case for you as well but don't have enough details to tell for sure.
  3. I just replaced the clock on another Buffalo switch and it worked like a charm. More to follow.
  4. Thank you all for your concerns and willingness to help. This is a normal day in the life of a DIY-er :). We just don't post too much about failures and only share success stories. I decided to switch things around for a moment. Give me a few days to get one working, and I will post pictures and instructions. I'll then try to inspect closer what happened to this one.
  5. I share mostly success stories, but there is a lot going on behind the scenes with my experiments. Here is a behind the scenes failure story... Tried to replace the clock on one of my Buffalo switches, and the switch board is fried. The problem is I don't know why. I had someone else remove the clock, so that might be part of the problem. Also USPS was quite brutal with this package as it can be seen by the bended port. Well, one less precious Buffalo in this world. That specific buffalo breed is nearly extinct! I will sacrifice another one, and hopefully it would work out next time.
  6. Sean had two types of DC3 regulators at the time - 1.5A and a more powerful one. I called the more powerful one "5A" in my posts. I think those don't necessarily provide continuous 5A, hence Sean is offering the boost module for 5A applications. But the 5V ATX rail does not need continuous 5A. It only needs to be able to handle occasional peaks over 1.5A, so that arrangement worked fine. I had tested it on other builds and knew that worked fine. My friend already had a SJ 12V LPS with a boost module, which he used for the EPS:
  7. Check with him. He has one but does not advertise it. This thread might be of interest to you if you have missed it:
  8. He is the man running HDPlex. https://hdplex.com/contact/
  9. The Asus Crosshair does NOT share the same 12V rail between the EPS connector and the ATX connector. I would recommend you power up the ATX connector from the HDplex 400/800 and power the EPS connector from your 12V rail. There is a benefit to isolating the 12V CPU/EPS rail from the rest. All motherboards I have seen have a common ground plane between all the rails. If you really want to try to feed the 12V ATX from the same rail as the EPS, you can of course try that. But I don't recommend it. As for trying to get a HDPlex 800W DC-ATX, email Larry. He gets small batches and sells them via email. Have him add you to the waiting list, and you would be able to get one faster this way.
  10. Let me clarify... My post was about powering two CPUs on the same board. Those CPUs don't have isolated power rails, and you can't use two dedicated rails (i.e. one per CPU). Hence, I recommend using one EPS rail for both CPUs. It just happened that the 12V EPS rail on this particular motherboard is also shared with the 12V on the 24-pin ATX connector. You are good with your two rail LPS for the ASUS Strix Z390-i. That's what I would do in your case too. My post was about a different case.
  11. Keep in mind that this motherboard uses only one 12V rail. The 12V from the ATX connector, the 2 x 12 Volts on the EPS connector and the 12V on the third connector are all connected in parallel. If you use two 12V power supplies, there might be some strange consequences as you are basically putting the output of two power supplies in parallel. This was one of the strange consequences in my case :): If it helps, I ended up using a one rail 12.5A LPS that can deliver up to 45A of instantaneous peaks. I feed the 12V on the 24-pin ATX and the two EPS connectors from that LPS. It's similar to the one @elan120 built but with DC4 specs and a few other extras. Normally, it draws around 6-7A while playing music. But that depends on your software too.
  12. I am assuming you mean pin 8 (grey), pin 16 (green), and pin 14 (blue)? Pin 8 connect to the +5V DC rail. Pin 16 controls the ATX PS on/off. You don't need to connect it. Pin 14 is not needed. Same for PIN 20 - not needed.
  13. Looking good. Keep updating us. Thank you for sharing.
  14. Welcome to the forum @Soul Analogue. This is a very enthusiastic project. Looking forward to hear more about it. I don't think we have tried an EPYC CPU. Which model did you pick? I guess the passive cooling might be a challenge.
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