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Nenon

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  1. Stunning job as always, @elan120. It is addictive what those expensive mods do. I suppose you are using both switches and the PF Buffalo connects to your server/streamer? Try fiber between the two switches if you haven't.
  2. My guess is that the DIY Helix concept has bigger advantage to AC cables. No motivation to try it with DC cables here. But I will try it on a power at some point.
  3. Yes, I have. I have done a cable for the Farad using 4 x 18AWG wires and a cable using 2 x 15.5AWG connected to pin1 (+) and pin2 (GND). The latter sounded a little bit better to my ears. They were both pretty short, around 1 foot.
  4. I think you misunderstood my post, Alex. I know you did not recommend removing the fuse. You and I both understand the design choices made very well. The purpose of my post was actually to clarify to the rest that most DC3 / DC4s do not have the extra fuse you mentioned. It's easy to take a message out of context and apply to all / generalize. That was actually @elan120's build. And I did suggest to him to try moving the capacitor's ground point and a couple other things. He created a wonderful and very informative thread. It's probably best to discuss th
  5. Just to clarify further on this. This is only done on high current power supplies. They can deliver up to 40-50A of current by design. An output fuse is installed on them, but not as much for convenience, as it is for safety reasons. You would really want that fast acting fuse if you accidently short the DC cable connected to the output of this power supply! The fuse does have a small impact on the sound. I've tried it with and without. But I would prefer safety over the very little slight SQ gain in this case. I installed a SR Orange fuse there, and the gap is almost gone.
  6. Looks nice, ticks many checkboxes, and uses top components, just like the DC4. It does not say much about the design, and I could not find how many amps it can deliver. The devil is in the implementation details and ultimately how it performs. I know that Sean Jacobs has spent a lot of time tweaking his PCB boards. Even a slight change, let's say to the grounding traces on the boards, could have a significant impact on the sound. When you get a LPS from Sean Jacobs or Paul Hynes, you know it comes with many years of experience and expertise. It's not easy to get it "right" just by usi
  7. No. He has done something different that lowers the noise up to 1000 times for lower current draw. Exactly how much lower it depends on the current draw.
  8. As far as I know, the regular clock is just an off the shelf Connor-Winfield OCXO. The ultraOCXO is a custom clock with much better specs. I've always used the ultraOCXO, because although I pay quite a bit for it, I know it's something I can't buy as a consumer. The Connor-Winfield headquarters is right here in Chicago land and their standard OCXO clocks are in the $100-$200 price range. I know a few people who upgraded from the regular OCXO to the ultraOCXO and reported positive improvement. Whether it's worth the price difference is a different story. I guess it depends o
  9. Sorry to hear that. I usually try to connect a regular PC ATX power supply with its stock cables when something goes wrong. And I also connect a CPU fan to see of it would start spinning. It's a good way to rule out a dead motherboard vs. something else.
  10. Pretty sure I am not the only person :). I like the Duelund CAST range a lot. Especially the tinned copper version. I used them everywhere I can in the signal path. My line stage has them. My phono stage has them. My monoblocks have them. That's all tube equipment and they are the best coupling caps I have heard. My speakers also have some Duelund caps. I have a pair of massive 8.2 uF speaker Duelund CAST tinned copper that I custom ordered at some point. The size of these caps is insane! Bigger than the woofers on some speakers :). Very expensive but no regrets there. I never tried
  11. The MSRP of the Duelund CAST Silver Capacitors used to be very high. Here is an example of one value above 0.1 uF - https://www.partsconnexion.com/DUELUND-77035.html - with MSRP of $1,499.95. Duelund created its own competition when they released the Tinned Copper version. It was supposed to be a more affordable option to the silver and the hybrid (copper/silver) caps. It turned out many people (including me) prefered the tinned copper version over the copper or hybrid (copper/silver) version. Here is a review that ranks the hybrid less than the tinned copper version: ht
  12. Just to be clear - I was referring to analog interconnects, not digital cables. I should have clarified that in my post. In that application paralleling two sets of HFC Pro RCA cables was better than running just one set. Never tried that with digital cables, where it is indeed quite important to have the right impedance. I believe Rajiv, Roy, and a few other people prefered parallel HFC cables as digital cables too, but that's not something I have tried. I think Mani makes a good point, though.
  13. RE: Schroder Method I was planning to comment on this for a while but never found the time. When I was testing different DIY recipes for RCA interconnects, I experimented with many different wires. In some cases, I used the same wire, the same connectors but experimented with different thickness of the wire. For example one of the things I have tried was an interconnect with the VHAudio silver wire. I tried 24 AWG, 21 AWG, and 18 AWG. Each one had its own character. Generally speaking the thinner wire had a thinner sound and the thicker wire had a bolder sound.
  14. As I was writing my previous post (regarding cables), I started thinking about the coaxial cable coming to my house from my ISP. Some people are lucky enough to have fiber Internet. But for those of us using "cable" Internet, we have a coaxial cable coming to our house. Has anyone tried upgrading the coax cable between the splitter and the cable modem with an audiophile cable? I know, I know, there are probably miles of coax outside of our house, so why would the last meter matter? Well, it's the same with power cables, isn't it? I've learned not to look for solid logic every time in audio and
  15. It works really well, and I am trying to convince Sean to offer that. You can however request it like @Blackmorec did. I have done a lot of comparisons in my system, and every inch (or should I say every mm) of DC wire in my system is using the Mundorf silver/gold wire - the 15.5 AWG version where possible, and the 18 AWG at a couple places where I could not fit the thicker version. I have easily spent over $3K on this wire in my system. And it's totally worth it. @Blackmorec asked me if too much of this wire could become a problem and if he should get his LPS with the standard wir
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