Article: My Quest for a New DAC, Part 5: Chord Electronics Hugo M Scaler & Hugo TT 2

[KDinsmore]

I bought the Hugo TT 2 a few days ago after having bought the Qutest and traded back in a few days thinking ahead of the curve. This is spectacular. I'll get the M-Scaler sometime in the next six months to complete this. Crazy great and the headphone amp is superb. 

I will also recommend Justin at HeadAmp. Service is excellent.

[AbsolutK]

I posted this over in the official TT2 thread at Head-Fi, but since the inspiration for much of this came from @ray-dude here, it's more fitting to share here also:

 

I traded in my Micromega M-One M150 and sold my pair of Magico S1 to try the Hugo TT2 + sensitive speaker route. Placed an order for a pair of Omega Super Alnico Monitors (Louis suggested I go with the standard, not High Output version, if what I like is imaging and accuracy), with Zenwave internal wiring and a pair of Sound Anchors. However, till the speakers arrive, I have my friend's pair of Avalon Acoustics IDEA loudspeakers (which I need to list for him!). I created a pair of RCA<>binding post adapters (can post the tutorial if someone is interested) using the extra Furutech FT-867 binding posts I had from my DIY days and hooked up the IDEAs using a pair of Sablon Audio Panatela cables. Yes, I am using just the 7wpc available through the RCA. Rated nominally at 4 ohms, and a sensitivity of a lowly 88 db/w/m, I wasn't expecting much from the IDEAs plugged into the TT2 directly, but BOY was I wrong.

Wowza. I've never heard my setup sound this transparent and neutral. I'm constantly between -15 and -5, volume-wise and will rarely go above +3 (when watching TV). I am not listening to music on low, quiet volume, mind you - this is at a point where I can't have a conversation without raising my voice. The IDEAs are augmented with a REL Carbon Limited (high level), and I can't tell where the speakers stop and the sub picks up. I didn't have this level of seamlessness with the Micromega. Now I'm a bit bummed for having sold the Magicos because I really really REALLY liked their sound (the Avalons have a bit of a mid bass bump), and at 87db/w/m, would not have taken much away from the system at the volumes I listen to it at.

Against Chord's recommendation, I decided to try a pair of 15v Farad Super3 on the TT2 and M Scaler. They got delivered today. While the TT2 sees a marginal benefit (I will report back when the Farads have broken in a little), the HMS steps into a different league. There is far more channel separation with instruments and vocals finding their place and staying solidly there. I also received my ferrites today and will be clamping them on to the Silver Dragons. By the way, the Chord units sit side by side on an HRS M3x.

For background, in recent years my amplification has included the Devialet D400, DIY gear (including Neurochrome Modulus-686), and the Micromega. I've tried the XTZ Edge A2-300, and as well heard my friend's Gryphon Diablo 300 quite a bit. My source has moved from an Allo Katana (DAC) to an Allo DigiOne Signature+USBridge Sig to ultimately a NUC7i7 in an Akasa fanless case running Euphony. My friend's Lumin U1 had made a brief appearance along with the grossly mismatched (price-wise ) Nordost Odin SPDIF cable. The server, an M.2 drive-using NAS by QNAP (TBS-453DX). USB comes by way of an Uptone ISO Regen and ethernet from an EtherRegen. All of this powered by 6x Farads plugged into an Isotek Aquarius (which incidentally has 6 outlets).

 

I wish I could have gotten a pair of the Zeths + Z Bass. But since I just got the Carbon Limited and all of this Chord gear, perhaps that's a treat for when the world is better :).

 

Just some anecdotal info for anyone thinking of trying this route based on this thread's info!

[kennyb123]

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

I posted this over in the official TT2 thread at Head-Fi, but since the inspiration for much of this came from @ray-dude here, it's more fitting to share here also:

 

Thanks for posting this here.  I stopped monitoring that thread over there.

 

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

 

I created a pair of RCA<>binding post adapters (can post the tutorial if someone is interested) using the extra Furutech FT-867 binding posts I had from my DIY days and hooked up the IDEAs using a pair of Sablon Audio Panatela cables.

Yes please!

 

 

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

 

 Yes, I am using just the 7wpc available through the RCA. Rated nominally at 4 ohms, and a sensitivity of a lowly 88 db/w/m, I wasn't expecting much from the IDEAs plugged into the TT2 directly, but BOY was I wrong.

 

Wow.  My 10Ts have a sensitivity around 86 dB if I remember correctly.  I should give this a try anyway.

 

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

Against Chord's recommendation, I decided to try a pair of 15v Farad Super3 on the TT2 and M Scaler. They got delivered today. While the TT2 sees a marginal benefit (I will report back when the Farads have broken in a little), the HMS steps into a different league. There is far more channel separation with instruments and vocals finding their place and staying solidly there. I also received my ferrites today and will be clamping them on to the Silver Dragons. By the way, the Chord units sit side by side on an HRS M3x.

 

I’m surprised you found the benefit marginal as a friend brought over his Super3 and I heard a significant improvement - but that was relative to the Poweradd battery (which was better than the power supply Chord provided).  We also tried powering my HMS with the Super3 and the improvement was significant there too.  We didn’t take the time to figure out which delivered the bigger improvement because what I heard was enough to convince me that I will need to eventually buy two of these.  I would welcome your thoughts once the Super3s have broken in.

 

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

Just some anecdotal info for anyone thinking of trying this route based on this thread's info!

 

Thanks again for sharing!
 

[crittyone]

I just looked Austinpops system and I did not see the TT2/MS but a Dave/MS.  He blew past that 5k budget.  Good for him, enjoy.

[mecani]

hi, someone has tried the m sacaler in a Dac mytek, my dealer did the tests in a brookling and said that it sounded better than Hugo tt2. is this possible?

[The Computer Audiophile]

4 hours ago, mecani said:

hi, someone has tried the m sacaler in a Dac mytek, my dealer did the tests in a brookling and said that it sounded better than Hugo tt2. is this possible?

Sound quality is subjective, so yes, it’s possible. 

[Bob Loblaw]

Hi guys,

 

Judging the amp section alone, has anybody compared the TT2 to the Nelson Pass HPA-1?

 

I'm looking into the either the TT2 or a combination of Qutest + Pass for my headphone playback. I know the TT2 has more features for about $200-300 less than the Qutest/Pass combo, but cross-feed and possibly IEM playback don't matter to me really. Not counting the addition of an M Scaler, the amount of taps in the TT2 seems to be the feature the Qutest truly lacks over the TT2, at least for my intended use.

 

Have not heard the Pass amp to be honest, but since it was apparently voiced with the HD800s and LCD-X in mind (have the HD800 and LCD-XC), I am wondering if choosing a DAC/amp combo makes sense.

[austinpop]

11 hours ago, Bob Loblaw said:

Hi guys,

 

Judging the amp section alone, has anybody compared the TT2 to the Nelson Pass HPA-1?

 

I'm looking into the either the TT2 or a combination of Qutest + Pass for my headphone playback. I know the TT2 has more features for about $200-300 less than the Qutest/Pass combo, but cross-feed and possibly IEM playback don't matter to me really. Not counting the addition of an M Scaler, the amount of taps in the TT2 seems to be the feature the Qutest truly lacks over the TT2, at least for my intended use.

 

Have not heard the Pass amp to be honest, but since it was apparently voiced with the HD800s and LCD-X in mind (have the HD800 and LCD-XC), I am wondering if choosing a DAC/amp combo makes sense.

 

Hi Bob,

 

Sorry, I have not experienced the HPA-1, so cannot give you direct impressions.

 

That said, it would take an exceptional amp for me me to consider Qutest+amp to be a better investment than a TT2. Especially since we are talking about headphones like the HD800 and LCD-XC, which the TT-2 drives with ease. Had it been the Susvara or Abyss AB-1266 TC, which are hardwe to drive, the case for an amp would be stronger.

 

 I cannot stress strongly enough just how exceptional of a headphone amp the TT2 has. And one of the hallmarks of the TT2, like all of Rob's DACs, is the level of transparency you get from driving headphones (or indeed even high efficiency speakers) directly from the DAC.

 

I believe I elaborated on this in the review.

[bobfa]

I had a week with the TT2 in my systems and driving both my HD-800 and my LCD-i4 was a joy!  I love my Hugo 2 but the TT2 is another level of fun!  

[Bob Loblaw]

9 hours ago, austinpop said:

 

That said, it would take an exceptional amp for me me to consider Qutest+amp to be a better investment than a TT2. Especially since we are talking about headphones like the HD800 and LCD-XC, which the TT-2 drives with ease. Had it been the Susvara or Abyss AB-1266 TC, which are hardwe to drive, the case for an amp would be stronger.

 

Thank you for your reply. What you wrote make total sense.

I just also learned that Pass recommends the HPA-1 to be on at all times for max performance. I assume the TT2 being a more "digital" component than the Pass warm up is less of an issue?

[The Computer Audiophile]

3 minutes ago, Bob Loblaw said:

 

Thank you for your reply. What you wrote make total sense.

I just also learned that Pass recommends the HPA-1 to be on at all times for max performance. I assume the TT2 being a more "digital" component than the Pass warm up is less of an issue?

I’d say the opposite of that assumption. Clocks/crystals can take quite a while to completely stabilize. 

[bobfa]

3 minutes ago, The Computer Audiophile said:

I’d say the opposite of that assumption. Clocks/crystals can take quite a while to completely stabilize. 

Leave it on!!!

[The Computer Audiophile]

3 minutes ago, bobfa said:

Leave it on!!!

I’ve talked to DAC designers who’ve told me some clocks take a day to completely stabilize. 

[bobfa]

I have had quite a few DACs in my systems over time.  One of the BEST was the Schiit Yggdrasil.  I live in the Midwest and when we have bad weather I would unplug everything “just in case”.  That DAC did not stabilize for at least two days.   I have had others tell me that the YGGY takes even longer in their systems.  On the analog side I used the Ayre AX-5 Twenty integrated amp and if it was off you could hear it change over a couple of hours, from standby it would take maybe 5 min.

 

As a side note I am now using Kii Three speakers in my main system and they automatically switch to standby after about 15 minutes.  I Think that I can hear a little difference in the first few minutes of operation.  

 

It is fun to actually test this in a system... 

[austinpop]

I echo Bob and Chris's general comments above. I personally leave my digital gear on 24x7.

 

Per Rob's post on the subject:

 

But when you are in standby mode (power off on the front panel) the FPGA remains powered up all the time (so the remote still works) but the rest of the power hungry circuitry is shut down. So no FPGA boot up phase when you switch the front panel power switch.

 

A lot of people choose to put their TT2 in standby when not in use, but I belong in the "leave it on 24x7" camp. 

 

 

[ted_b]

Leave clocks on all the time....and when first powering up (initial setup, power blackout interruptions,etc) expect thermal equilibrium will take 24 hrs (most likely won't).

[Bob Loblaw]

WOW

 

Turns out i still have a lot to learn. Thank you.

[KDinsmore]

Has anyone tried the Furutech NCF Clear Line?

[KDinsmore]

Thanks for the "heads up" on keeping power on 24/7. Checked in over at HeadFi and Rob Watts checks in on the thread and corroborated that.

[AbsolutK]

On 3/30/2020 at 6:50 PM, AbsolutK said:

I created a pair of RCA<>binding post adapters (can post the tutorial if someone is interested)

OK, this this just under two years late, but they say it's better late than never. The truth is that I took an unexpectedly long pause between the electrical/functional completion of the adapters and building the housing. I was embarrassed to share my half-baked work and just completed the housing. Here's hoping this tutorial for the adapter helps one of the growing list of Chord DAC owners!

 

Obligatory completed picture first.

 

Note, that I used the choicest materials because I knew this IS the signal path, just amplified. But you are welcome to use any components that fit your budget and or ethos.

 

1. Ingredients needed:

1. Required
   1. 1x RCA pair (I chose Eichmann Silver Bullets)
   2. 2x Binding Post pair (I chose the Furutech Low Mass model, FT-867, which is now superseded by the FT-809. The only metal is one solid core OCC copper wire)
   3. 2 ft wire (I chose 18 gauge solid core OCC Silver, though I am worried about the solid core's strength over time; I'd choose longer, but that would get expensive super fast)
   4. Soldering iron and good solder
2. Optional
   1. 4x Quick dis/connect terminals (if using Furutech FT series Binding Posts) 
   2. Tubing
   3. Heat Shrink
   4. Strain Relief
   5. Housing

 

2. RCA End

1. Cut the 18g silver wire into 4x 6in wire, noting the direction.
   1. Mark the direction on each cut so both your channels are using the same direction
   2. If I were being pedantic, the ground wires should flow the opposite of signal 
2. Open the RCA plugs
3. Strip about 3mm of the solid core wire and solder it to the center pin
   1. Use flux and make sure the solder fills the cup around the solid core wire
   2. Optionally, heat shrink it
4. Optionally, add tubing and heat shrink to provide some protection

3. Binding Post End

1. Strip about 10mm of the solid core wire
   1. Optionally, add a strain relief at this point. It will be difficult to add them later if you are using the quick dis/connect terminals.  
2. Crimp on the quick dis/connect terminals
   1. Loop the newly stripped wire and insert into the quick dis/connect terminal tube. Hold on crimper as shown and crimp away. Try to ignore the painful sound of cracking plastic. If anyone has found a better way to use these terminals, please let me know.
   2. Mark the +ve and -ve terminals
3. Connect the terminals to the binding posts
   1. The center pin is positive and will connect to the Red binding post
   2. The ground pin is negative and will connect to the Black binding post

You are done electrically! Feel free to make these sturdy on the Binding Post side in whichever way you feel:

1. Add tubing and/or heat shrink 
2. Use electrical or kapton tape, or like my, painters tape to use the adapter till the housing is made
3. Build a housing by using CNC milled plywood

Cheers!

 

 

[AbsolutK]

By the way, this story evolved a little, in a continued testament to the Chord direct drive model. A quick summary:

 

In November of 2020, I was planning a long term overseas stint and so sold most of my stereo gear with the intention of using powered monitors overseas and assembling a new system when I got back. Well, the trip did not materialize, so I decided to pursue what initially appeared to be masters of high-sensitivity speakers, Voxativ. That ended up being one of the biggest mistakes I've made in my life. After finding a buyer for the crap-tacular Absolut Alberich system, I put the Omegas back in service and re-purchased the TT2, HMS and Farads from the gentleman who purchased them from me. I was back to the magic. I traded in the TT2 for a Dave and even more magic ensued. This combo is simply stunning

 

Though top end sparkle isn't exactly full-range drivers' forte, and eventually the urge to try the Chord + Magico combo came back up. My heart was set on the S series and while an S1 Mk2 did not show up on the pre-owned market in the months I was searching, a pair of S3 Mk2 did, which I bought, along with an Ultima series amplifier to power it. 

 

Until the Ultima shipped (it still hasn't), I needed something to temporarily power the S3. Rather than buy more stuff for the home, I reluctantly plugged them into the direct drive adapters in place of the Omegas. WOW. That Magico sparkle came right to life, just like the Avalons did. And this time with only the Dave's 2wpc! I highly recommend you try this no matter what brand your speakers are. The bar for the Ultima is set quite high. I suspect that even with the Ultima, I will be swapping back and forth between direct drive and amp drive.

 

I will say that the quality of materials on the adapter matter a lot. I swapped in my high quality adapter for my practice one (with lower grade components), and instantly heard the loss of dynamics.

[AnotherSpin]

On 2/22/2019 at 9:21 AM, austinpop said:

The Vänskä Sibelius cycle on BIS is head and shoulders the best SIbelius cycle I've heard.

 

Minnesota or Lahti?

[austinpop]

Minnesota.