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SMPS and grounding


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AFAIK i haven't a ground in my home so when i touch any devices in my chain i feel the tingling which is due to earth leakage currents.

 

And here it is my AC Mains (220V) which i use it to feed my devices in the chain:

 

IMG_9672.thumb.jpg.b41e910681b3d5a24729045c8c0b8fbc.jpgIMG_9669.thumb.jpg.ebfb89509247ea5dbc7e8dccc2fb68fe.jpg

 

And i'm using this power strip 

 

IMG_0176.thumb.PNG.2a7d63113e4a170c011ed71d724f5f16.PNG

 

My Chain contains the following devices;

 

Laptop > tXUSBUltra+LPS-1 > DAC\AMP > Headphone

 

Any advice and thoughts

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1 hour ago, beautiful music said:

AFAIK i haven't a ground in my home so when i touch any devices in my chain i feel the tingling which is due to earth leakage currents.

 

And here it is my AC Mains (220V) which i use it to feed my devices in the chain:

 

And i'm using this power strip 

 

My Chain contains the following devices;

 

Laptop > tXUSBUltra+LPS-1 > DAC\AMP > Headphone

 

Any advice and thoughts

 

I would recommend saving up and getting your house/listening room grounded. Have a thick ROMEX line from the room going out to the circuit breaker and have some poles planted to the earth in various locations of your home to remove excess currents. I'm not sure about 220V/230V but you can see if hospital grade receptacles are available for you as well as ditching the conventional design power strips and going with a thicker power distributor since a lot of your gear is running one one line.

 

Like the pictures I posted, I would also recommend grounding your LPS-1's SMPS unit even if you currently have no ground/no earth/float. If you are not good at soldering, I believe this one is grounded natively https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI/SDI30-12-UC-P5/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMs1jjUfAXmXyqv86XjbjzLxpWuwymXjUM1WvLoTXq3UsA%3D%3D . I'm not sure how much noise it will if your home is not grounded but worth a shot. 

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1 hour ago, Energy said:

Decided to ground my MeanWell GST25A07-P1J that came with the UpTone Audio LPS-1.

 

It has a floating ground unlike with the MeanWell GST40A07-P1J (which should be easier to solder for most folks). I went with using a Canare Star Quad 4S6 cable and cut out the jacket to utilize the internal wires. Two wires combined equals a total effective gauge of 17 gauge and should serve as a good route for the high frequency common-mode noise to exit.

 

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2.thumb.jpg.d3cf53c50bde34c7a8522f2d016aedc5.jpg

3.thumb.jpg.adc6df206a1c69c9db37e5f4ac106db8.jpg

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Added with this NEMA 5-15P to 2 C13s Splitter Power Cord saves space by narrowing both SMPS's to a single plug.

 

 

P-12Y1212-01.2B-14.thumb.jpg.903ae2a255fbe7c1dc18e48d2b79bccb.jpg

http://www.signalandpower.com/Splitter-Power-Cords/P-12Y1212-012B-14-5-15P-to-C13s-splitter-15A/

Really awesome mod.  I was thinking of doing this too.  Just to be clear, it looks like you are soldering the wire to the blob of solder on the under side of the board?  Is there any distinguishing numbering at that point?  I just want to make sure I solder in the right place.  Also, I assume the case is just held together by clips?  Any pointers on opening it?

12TB NAS >> i7-6700 Server/Control PC >> i3-5015u NAA >> Singxer SU-1 DDC (modded) >> Holo Spring L3 DAC >> Accustic Arts Power 1 int amp >> Sonus Faber Guaneri Evolution speakers + REL T/5i sub (x2)

 

Other components:

UpTone Audio LPS1.2/IsoRegen, Fiber Switch and FMC, Windows Server 2016 OS, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer Pro 6, HQ Player, Roonserver, PS Audio P3 AC regenerator, HDPlex 400W ATX & 200W Linear PSU, Light Harmonic Lightspeed Split USB cable, Synergistic Research Tungsten AC power cords, Tara Labs The One speaker cables, Tara Labs The Two Extended with HFX Station IC, Oyaide R1 outlets, Stillpoints Ultra Mini footers, Hi-Fi Tuning fuses, Vicoustic/RealTraps/GIK room treatments

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1 hour ago, Energy said:

I would recommend saving up and getting your house/listening room grounded.

 

The best earth you can get i to hammer a copper stick into the soil :D

 

Cheap, and works great. But maybe not easy to utilize everywhere.

You can also connect to the water pipe as an option, if they are copper.

 

http://www.esgroundingsolutions.com/different-types-of-grounding-electrodes/

 

 

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The wire is soldered to the floating ground on one end while the other end is soldered to the blob of solder on the under side of the PCB. That blob is where the negative output is connected to. By soldering it on there you are shunting the negative output directly to the ground. I used a multi-meter set to continuity mode to find out which solder point the negative output was. If you own a MeanWell GST40A07-P1J then it should look like this instead.

 

5a538acf38320_MWGST40groundedcopy.thumb.jpg.043604ee915fd8ecab13c79090251ff8.jpg

 

The ABS plastic case is very easy to open. Underneath it there should be two circular silicone pieces that is flush against the plastic. You will want to pry it out with a small flat-head screwdriver followed by removing the Phillips head screws beneath them. Make sure you push tightly when screwing and unscrewing otherwise you'll end up stripping the screw heads. Pulling off the plastic cap after that should be a cinch. Just make sure to remove the metal clip on the inside corner of the unit before taking out the PCB. The metal clip is used to strap a gray rubber cover that goes over a rectifier/regulator against the case so that the board doesn't move. The rest should be self explanatory. :P

 

5 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

 

The best earth you can get i to hammer a copper stick into the soil :D

 

Cheap, and works great. But maybe not easy to utilize everywhere.

 

 

 

Is that really possible? I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to earthing. At first I thought it needed to be galvanized rods with zinc plating to help with weather proofing or longevity concerns but it seems that even a simple copper rod would do it after searching on google. I think the water pipe grounding trick is a pretty good idea as long as the pipe is continuous and not using plastic insulators that separate them otherwise the ground cable run will have to be connected to whichever pipe area has the most continuous pipe available. Connecting a wire to each one of them would be devastating. :ph34r: I believe the site you linked recommends there still being at least one more other form of electrode (rod, plate, etc) that needs to be used despite using the pipes as a form of electrode.

 

Anyways, it's fine if your space isn't properly grounded or earth but it poses as a safety hazard. Even my music listening room is not grounded. The grounded receptacle and power distributor I have is all floating. I wonder whether I should just call an electrician and lose a couple grand to have the whole house grounded or just do it myself by plunging some rods into the earth and connect it to my receptacle since I'm the only one who really cares for it. :o I need a path for the leakage currents and common-mode noise to escape. 

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1 hour ago, Energy said:

 

Anyways, it's fine if your space isn't properly grounded or earth but it poses as a safety hazard. Even my music listening room is not grounded. The grounded receptacle and power distributor I have is all floating. I wonder whether I should just call an electrician and lose a couple grand to have the whole house grounded or just do it myself by plunging some rods into the earth and connect it to my receptacle since I'm the only one who really cares for it. :o I need a path for the leakage currents and common-mode noise to escape. 

It may be possible to DIY the grounding but be sure to check building codes to find out what is correct for your town, etc.  When they installed my cable TV service they put in a separate ground from that of the main service panel.  I was later informed by electrician that having the two grounds could cause a delta which could be a problem.

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8 hours ago, beautiful music said:

AFAIK i haven't a ground in my home so when i touch any devices in my chain i feel the tingling which is due to earth leakage currents.

 

And here it is my AC Mains (220V) which i use it to feed my devices in the chain:

 

IMG_9672.thumb.jpg.b41e910681b3d5a24729045c8c0b8fbc.jpgIMG_9669.thumb.jpg.ebfb89509247ea5dbc7e8dccc2fb68fe.jpg

 

And i'm using this power strip 

 

IMG_0176.thumb.PNG.2a7d63113e4a170c011ed71d724f5f16.PNG

 

My Chain contains the following devices;

 

Laptop > tXUSBUltra+LPS-1 > DAC\AMP > Headphone

 

Any advice and thoughts

 

Which country are you in ?

Have you checked another wall socket ?

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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19 minutes ago, One and a half said:

Very suspect though.

 

  Indeed !

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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9 hours ago, R1200CL said:

 

The best earth you can get i to hammer a copper stick into the soil :D

 

Cheap, and works great. But maybe not easy to utilize everywhere.

You can also connect to the water pipe as an option, if they are copper.

 

http://www.esgroundingsolutions.com/different-types-of-grounding-electrodes/

 

 

 

8 hours ago, BigGuy said:

It may be possible to DIY the grounding but be sure to check building codes to find out what is correct for your town, etc.  When they installed my cable TV service they put in a separate ground from that of the main service panel.  I was later informed by electrician that having the two grounds could cause a delta which could be a problem.

 

I think I'll get one of these and plunge it into the earth just for my room. O.o

 

NOS Grounding Electrolytic Electrode StraightShaft 10'

 

Seems like the best option out of all earthing/grounding tricks. Digging a small hole 10' to fit this thing on the other hand seems like quite the task... And would having one be enough is the real question.. Maybe for a single room, yes? 9_9

 

@beautiful music I just noticed the dual hot wires into your receptacle/outlet.. fishy..

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1 hour ago, R1200CL said:

@Cornan

if you have a iDevice, you must try this. 

No need for JSGT. ? Well almost...

 

 

 

Thanks @R1200CL! A pity that I am not a Roon user. Since all my music comes from Tidal (or Spotify connect) I have not seen a "end-point" for it! ?

I still use my iPhone SE controlling LightningDS, when I am not using Android tablet (BubbleDS Next) or iPad. 

Interesting though. Makes me wonder if Roon works like OpenHome since it could improve in a similar way IME?

 

BTW. I have the Dragonfly Black v1.5 (portable) which can do MQA. Could maybe be something interesting to try with the iPhone Roon endpoint? Is there a portable NAS around (like QNAP Qgenie) that works with Roon?

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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21 hours ago, sandyk said:

 

Which country are you in ?

Have you checked another wall socket ?

 

21 hours ago, One and a half said:

Middle East perhaps. Interesting the hot is looped, but the neutral isn't. Very suspect though. Still most systems have earth fault detection of some kind,  provided there's an earth to connect to in the beginning. 

 

Yes indeed I'm living in middle east

 

 

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1 hour ago, beautiful music said:

Here's another photo for another socket in my house. 

 

IMG_9664.thumb.JPG.27c208e643900969895eb560c8f2866d.JPGIMG_9668.thumb.JPG.bdbc7c88751ba2212eacd6e064352c21.JPG

 

 Garry sure did nail your location ! :D

It seems they are more than a bit behind the times in your country as far as electrical safety goes.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

PROFILE UPDATED 13-11-2020

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19 hours ago, Cornan said:

A pity that I am not a Roon user

 

As a true experimental Swede, you’re obligated to do. Period. ?

 

Here is a two months trail for Roon

NL1601HBPROJECT

 

If you own that specific Qnap you’re mentioning, I don’t think it’s a winner, but almost anything else you have available as a computer will most likely do. 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, R1200CL said:

 

As a true experimental Swede, you’re obligated to do. Period. ?

 

Here is a two months trail for Roon

NL1601HBPROJECT

 

If you own that specific Qnap you’re mentioning, I don’t think it’s a winner, but almost anything else you have available as a computer will most likely do. 

 

 

 

Thanks, don’t mind if I do! Tried it once soon after it came out and was a bit erm... but now that I have an iPad that I can actually control it with I think I’ll try it again. For now would need to load it on my 2013 Mac Pro in the office. Def not a low power low noise device, but we’ll see...

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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Oops, code not valid. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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No because it's only valid until 12/31/17. Turns out I can't do another free trial anyway since I'm in the system already.

 

Any feedback on running Roon core on a Mac Pro (it does have an SSD)? Just not sure if I want to ditch my Vortexbox and spend $ on yet another computer....

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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Just now, charlesphoto said:

No because it's only valid until 12/31/17. Turns out I can't do another free trial anyway since I'm in the system already.

 

Any feedback on running Roon core on a Mac Pro (it does have an SSD)? Just not sure if I want to ditch my Vortexbox and spend $ on yet another computer....

 

‘You are probably better off asking Roon folks to extend your current trial

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Got it figured out (made a new account under a different email). Download taking forever though...

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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