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SMPS and grounding


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Just now, lvc10000 said:

Thank you Cornan for your response.

 

I realize I should have been more precise in my question. All 4 are currently powered separately by their own originally supplied SMPS.

The LPS-1 feeding my Microrendu.

 

Your welcome lvc10000! ?

 

No problem! I Edited my previous post if it was 4 SMPS. Please check.

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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I have a JSGT on my HDPLEX 100 powering my LPS-1 with the 12v rail and i think it makes a difference. 

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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micrroRendu

SERVER CLOSET (in office directly below living room stereo):NUC 7i5BNH with Roon ROCK (ZeroZone 12V on the NUC)>Cisco 2690L-16PS switch>Sonore opticalModule (Uptone LPS 1.2)>

LIVING ROOM: Sonore opticalRendu Roon version (Sonore Power Supply)> Shunyata Venom USB>Naim DAC V1>Witchhat DIN>Naim NAP 160 Bolt Down>Chord Rumor 2>Audio Physic Compact Classics. OFFICE: opticalModule> Sonore microRendu 1.4> Matrix Mini-i Pro 3> Naim NAP 110>NACA5>KEF Ls50's. BJC 6a and Ghent Catsnake 6a JSSG ethernet; AC cables: Shunyata Venom NR V-10; Audience Forte F3; Ice Age copper/copper; Sean Jacobs CHC PowerBlack, Moon Audio DIN>RCA, USB A>C. Isolation: Herbie's Audio Lab. 

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54 minutes ago, Superdad said:

7 of those 10 were from people charging their LPS-1 with an HDPlex power supply.

We can not cover under warranty failures caused by third-party "energizing"/charging supplies.

 

Do you know exactly what HD Plex it was? There are more than one model.

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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35 minutes ago, Superdad said:

 

The 100W and 200W (though from photos of their interiors it is hard to believe that the newer model really has twice the output capability of the older unit).

 

I think the old one was 160W and all outputs shared the same -0V, the new one is supposed to be 4 seperated rails but in my 200W I can only see 3 outputs from the transformer and 3 rectifiers so I think 2 outputs share the same windings on the transformer. 

I suppose the electronics in your LPS-1 is rated at a 12vdc maximum but at what voltage does it fry the circuits?

 

I have not yet connected my HD Plex 200W that will power my ISP fiberconverter, router, switch and NUC with Roon ROCK but this problem with over voltage have me a bit concerned about using it. Most of the stuff I will connect have their own DC/DC converter so perhaps they are not so sensitive to a short overvoltage input?

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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12 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

12V is the max we approve of for continuous input.  A spike of 18V or more will quickly fry one of our input regulators.

 

Was this during normal operation that the HD Plex fried the LPS-1 or did something break in them? Did the users use the12Vdc output or the adjustable 5-19,5Vdc output if you have that information?

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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12 minutes ago, octaviars said:

 

Was this during normal operation that the HD Plex fried the LPS-1 or did something break in them? Did the users use the12Vdc output or the adjustable 5-19,5Vdc output if you have that information?

 

It varies. Sometimes the fixed outputs, sometimes the variable, and often failure of the HDPlex in the process.  And the LPS-1 is not always the only item damaged.

Since virtually all the support we provide is via e-mail (though I enjoy phone calls as a break  and such are often more productive than e-mail), I have documentation of all this--plus the returned boards with burnt parts.

 

It is not my intention to be negative about the value-oriented HDPlex units--and I understand that Larry Liu provides excellent support to his customers.

I just felt the need to point out that we can not warrant the LPS-1 against damage by excessive voltage from 3rd-party supplies--and for whatever reason an HDPlex was involved in 7 of the 10 failures we have seen.

 

If you have further questions about this matter, please write to me.

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15 minutes ago, Superdad said:

If you have further questions about this matter, please write to me.

 

Ok, I will do that.

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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On 12/31/2017 at 10:06 AM, charlesphoto said:

I have a JSGT on my HDPLEX 100 powering my LPS-1 with the 12v rail and i think it makes a difference. 

 

15 hours ago, Superdad said:

 

It varies. Sometimes the fixed outputs, sometimes the variable, and often failure of the HDPlex in the process.  And the LPS-1 is not always the only item damaged.

Since virtually all the support we provide is via e-mail (though I enjoy phone calls as a break  and such are often more productive than e-mail), I have documentation of all this--plus the returned boards with burnt parts.

 

It is not my intention to be negative about the value-oriented HDPlex units--and I understand that Larry Liu provides excellent support to his customers.

I just felt the need to point out that we can not warrant the LPS-1 against damage by excessive voltage from 3rd-party supplies--and for whatever reason an HDPlex was involved in 7 of the 10 failures we have seen.

 

If you have further questions about this matter, please write to me.

So as an FYI, I currently have 2 HDPlex 100W’s and I actually just ordered a new HDPlex 200W that will arrive tomorrow. 

Larry told me that the older HDPlex 100w’s do not have OVP/OCC and that the new HDPlex 200W now does (plus an EMI /RF filter). 

I cuirently have my LPS-1 being powered by an older HDPlex 100W at 12V, after reading this, I think I will immediately revert back to using the Meanwell SMPS with a JSGT!! 

I have the other HDPlex 100W powering my Brooklyn DAC, so after reading this I’m anxious to get the new improved HDPlex 200W tomorrow since I don’t want to fry anything with these older HDPlex 100W’s! 

I’m planning on using the two old HDPlex 100w’s on my Modem, Router, and Netgear GS105 Switch. 

Do you think the smartest move would be to just replace the 2 HDPlex 100W’s completely and. It even risk using them on my network equipment? 

I never realized that they did not have OVP/OCC! Thankfully Larry informed me of this last week when I ordered the new HDPlex 200W. 

Oddly his advice to me was to sell them and NOT use them!  Seems like they’re actually unsafe per this information about the fried boards in the LPS-1! 

I guess I better start putting a JS-2 fund together fast for my DAC!  

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48 minutes ago, agladstone said:

Oddly his advice to me was to sell them and NOT use them!  Seems like they’re actually unsafe per this information about the fried boards in the LPS-1! 

  A small amount of over voltage on a 12V nominal voltage rail used for powering most 12V rated devices will not matter.

 However, a smidgin over  12V is the highest permissible voltage input for the JS-1.

It also seems likely that some of the failures may have been due to users fiddling with cables etc. with the power switched on, causing a momentary voltage spike or even failure of the HDPlex.

The 19V Adjustable voltage rail being set to +5V (as some members did) with a reasonably heavy load such as a USB card etc. , would also have caused this module to get quite hot, and in some instances did cause the voltage regulator to go S/C causing >19V to be applied to the powered device, which was also irreparably damaged ! 

Repaired/returned  modules came back with overvoltage protection fitted.

 

How a Digital Audio file sounds, or a Digital Video file looks, is governed to a large extent by the Power Supply area. All that Identical Checksums gives is the possibility of REGENERATING the file to close to that of the original file.

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On 2018-01-02 at 2:16 AM, sandyk said:

It also seems likely that some of the failures may have been due to users fiddling with cables etc. with the power switched on, causing a momentary voltage spike or even failure of the HDPlex.

The 19V Adjustable voltage rail being set to +5V (as some members did) with a reasonably heavy load such as a USB card etc. , would also have caused this module to get quite hot, and in some instances did cause the voltage regulator to go S/C causing >19V to be applied to the powered device, which was also irreparably damaged ! 

Repaired/returned  modules came back with overvoltage protection fitted.

 

I have tested my 200W HD Plex and to me it gets rather hot just runing around 0,5-1,5A on each of the four outputs and the variable set to 19V.

 

Larry wrote that 70 degrees is ok as operating temperatur but to me that is not ok in the long term as my will power network equipment 24/7.

 

The 19V and the variable 19.5-5V output share the same winding and rectifier so not four seperate outputs.

 

So the 200W model do have overvoltage protection from the begining? 

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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Modded my Netgear GS108 today, easy to connect ground to the -0V inside the switch. From the threaded insert a ground cable will go to the outlet feeding my PSU that supplies the 12Vdc to the switch.

 

DSC_0040.thumb.JPG.bda9464384fe7d489f0747b70cd77aa4.JPG

 

DSC_0041.thumb.JPG.f8ec75478a9d51726b81c65558b7ed46.JPG

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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40 minutes ago, octaviars said:

Modded my Netgear GS108 today, easy to connect ground to the -0V inside the switch. From the threaded insert a ground cable will go to the outlet feeding my PSU that supplies the 12Vdc to the switch.

 

DSC_0040.thumb.JPG.bda9464384fe7d489f0747b70cd77aa4.JPG

 

DSC_0041.thumb.JPG.f8ec75478a9d51726b81c65558b7ed46.JPG

Looks good! I need to teach myself how to solder already! No question that is a better way to do this DC grounding! 

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34 minutes ago, agladstone said:

Looks good! I need to teach myself how to solder already! No question that is a better way to do this DC grounding! 

 

Well I thougt this was a nicer looking way of doing it and no need to use a bunch of 5.5/2.1 adapters to connect a ground to the -0V. Now my Ghent cable with Oyaide DC plug can go directly in to the switch. 

Main system
TAD D1000mk2, TAD M2500mk2, TAD CE-1, Ansuz Mainz 8 C2, Ansuz Darkz D-TC, 
Qobuz Studio -> Roon ROCK on NUC -> Uptone etherREGEN -> dCS Network Bridge -> AES/EBU -> DAC
HD Plex 200W PSU (4 rail for ISP fiber, router, etherREGEN and NUC)
 
Second system
Qobuz Studio -> Devialet Silver Phantom, Devialet Tree
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10 minutes ago, octaviars said:

 

Well I thougt this was a nicer looking way of doing it and no need to use a bunch of 5.5/2.1 adapters to connect a ground to the -0V. Now my Ghent cable with Oyaide DC plug can go directly in to the switch. 

My thoughts exactly! I have all these nice Ghent cables I’ve ordered with the Canare 4s6 and Oyiade plugs and now I have a bunch of cheap screw on DC plugs (female and male) that I’ve wired and screwed together myself and I keep thinking I’m negating the benefits of the oyiade plugs 

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2 minutes ago, agladstone said:

My thoughts exactly! I have all these nice Ghent cables I’ve ordered with the Canare 4s6 and Oyiade plugs and now I have a bunch of cheap screw on DC plugs (female and male) that I’ve wired and screwed together myself and I keep thinking I’m negating the benefits of the oyiade plugs 

Do not know the Ghent cables but would it not be possible to open up the end with the Oyaide connector, attach the GND wire, and then reassemble and reshrink as necessary?

I do not have Ghent cables but have a couple of DIY DC cables where I might try this.

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55 minutes ago, agladstone said:

My thoughts exactly! I have all these nice Ghent cables I’ve ordered with the Canare 4s6 and Oyiade plugs and now I have a bunch of cheap screw on DC plugs (female and male) that I’ve wired and screwed together myself and I keep thinking I’m negating the benefits of the oyiade plugs 

I have one of the Oiyade DC plugs here...  While it certainly is nicely made, I do not see anything about it which would give it an actual performance advantage over a good Switchcraft part.  Sure it has gold plate (almost certainly thin gold flash over a nickel base) but at DC the current is going to be traveling through the base metal anyway.  And the base metal is brass or bronze and not copper.

I have never been able to find any DC barrel plugs made with copper, too bad, as the part seems like it could easily be made from copper...

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