The true experimental tweak thread

[lmitche]

Yeh, the Asus EA-N66 is terrific powered by an el-cheapo!

[Cornan]

Yeh, the Asus EA-N66 is terrific powered by an el-cheapo!

 

Ever tried it with a one output battery pack disconnected from ac mains?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[mozes]

Thanks for your suggestions @Cornan. I was almost going to order this portable router which has its own battery and looks very interesting! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21BN97ZLZ79FQ&psc=1

 

Then I worked a bit on my TP-link bridge, I have three devices that I am confused of which one should I use to fix the IP:

-Nimitra

-TP-WR802n bridge

-Asus RT-AC3100 main router

 

I decided to focus on the bridge, so I disabled the DHCP and assigned a fixed IP address 192.168.1.237. Then I added a fixed IP on the DHCP of the Asus main router 192.168.1.237, pls see pictures of my settings on the bridge and main router. I still see that the Nimitra has a different IP address 192.168.1.235 and this changes when I reboot the main ASUS router

 

 

 

I think there is something I am missing to get a fixed IP address to my Nimitra

 

@moussaobeid

Here is a list of routers approved by Auralic

 

Approved Models:

 

Netgear Nighthawk*AC1900

Netgear Nighthawk AC1750

ASUS RT-AC68U

ASUS RT-AC66U

Linksys EA6900 AC1900

 

I have'nt checked if any of these works with 5v input voltage...but I doubt it.

 

I know that this Asua EA-N66 wireless bridge is used my many CA members https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZT23ZE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza which have a 5v power supply according to this page thinkbroadband :: Asus EA-N66 Wireless Gigabit Ethernet Adapter review. It seems that this model have different types of power supplies when Google around, so I would double check it before order. It is a discontinued model, but still available and have got good reviews.

[mozes]

I already have the ASUS RT-AC66U and it was a great bridge but this needs 19v and has a special very thin connector that I can't use any LPS. I am still trying to avoid an Isolation transformer in my music room because of the hum issues

[Cornan]

Thanks for your suggestions @Cornan. I was almost going to order this portable router which has its own battery and looks very interesting! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21BN97ZLZ79FQ&psc=1

 

Then I worked a bit on my TP-link bridge, I have three devices that I am confused of which one should I use to fix the IP:

-Nimitra

-TP-WR802n bridge

-Asus RT-AC3100 main router

 

I decided to focus on the bridge, so I disabled the DHCP and assigned a fixed IP address 192.168.1.237. Then I added a fixed IP on the DHCP of the Asus main router 192.168.1.237, pls see pictures of my settings on the bridge and main router. I still see that the Nimitra has a different IP address 192.168.1.235 and this changes when I reboot the main ASUS router

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]33984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33986[/ATTACH]

 

 

I think there is something I am missing to get a fixed IP address to my Nimitra

 

Personally I would only set a static IP and DHCP disabled on the TP-Link nano router only and use automatic IP and DHCP enabled on the Asus router. The Nimitra must have a IP address of its own. This applies to any other network device in the network. If two devices uses identical IP address you will end up with problems.

When I set the IP address for my RE450 I use the currently automatic IP address used by the RE450 as the static IP.

[Cornan]

I already have the ASUS RT-AC66U and it was a great bridge but this needs 19v and has a special very thin connector that I can't use any LPS. I am still trying to avoid an Isolation transformer in my music room because of the hum issues

 

Fully understand that part! ? Luckily my Peaktech 2240 (used with RE450) is extremely silent so I can use it on all the time.

[mozes]

Thanks Cornan, I got it to work now with the static IP on the bridge only. Anyway, to be on the safe side, I ordered the Asus EA-N66, I found it refurbished on ebay for $39.99 ASUS EA-N66 Dual-Band Wireless-N900, 3 in 1 Access Point/Repeater/Gigabit Ethern | eBay.

The signal strength on my bridge shows 51db (2.4Ghz), not very high I guess

 

 

Personally I would only set a static IP and DHCP disabled on the TP-Link nano router only and use automatic IP and DHCP enabled on the Asus router. The Nimitra must have a IP address of its own. This applies to any other network device in the network. If two devices uses identical IP address you will end up with problems.

When I set the IP address for my RE450 I use the currently automatic IP address used by the RE450 as the static IP.

[austinpop]

Thanks for your suggestions @Cornan. I was almost going to order this portable router which has its own battery and looks very interesting! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00RVIGY1I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A21BN97ZLZ79FQ&psc=1

 

Then I worked a bit on my TP-link bridge, I have three devices that I am confused of which one should I use to fix the IP:

-Nimitra

-TP-WR802n bridge

-Asus RT-AC3100 main router

 

I decided to focus on the bridge, so I disabled the DHCP and assigned a fixed IP address 192.168.1.237. Then I added a fixed IP on the DHCP of the Asus main router 192.168.1.237, pls see pictures of my settings on the bridge and main router. I still see that the Nimitra has a different IP address 192.168.1.235 and this changes when I reboot the main ASUS router

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]33984[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33985[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]33986[/ATTACH]

 

 

I think there is something I am missing to get a fixed IP address to my Nimitra

 

Hi @moussaobeid -

 

So you want your Nimitra to have a fixed IP?

 

Here's the way to look at it:

• Your entire home network is a range from 192.168.1.1 to 255
  
• Your router is the gateway. It has a fixed IP on your home network, usually 192.168.1.1
  
• You should run your DHCP server on the router, and you can configure a range - say 192.168.1.50-150 of addresses to manage for devices that want a DHCP assigned address. You can change this range to be bigger or smaller, BTW.
  
• On your device, if it allows it, you can just set a static address, but make sure you pick an IP that is outside the DHCP range. Also, if you go static, then you have to be responsible for not assigning the same address to multiple devices.
  
• For intermediate devices like bridges, NASes, etc, that have a web UI for management, I prefer to set static addresses so I can bookmark their UI in my browser.
  

 

So keeping that in mind:

1. On your Asus router, which is the DHCP server, figure out what your DHCP range is.
   
2. Give your TP-Link bridge a static IP address that is outside the DHCP range. BTW - what you posted in your picture is where you turn DHCP off on your bridge. This is not where you set its static IP. That is probably up in the Network -> LAN pane.
   
3. On your Nimitra, just use the Windows adapter settings > TCP/IP v4 setting to assign it the static IP you want. Again - make sure it is outside the DHCP range.
   

 

That should be all you need to do.

[mozes]

Thanks a lot for the detailed explanation @austinpop

 

That's what I wanted to know to get a full picture of my network. I set a static IP address to my bridge now and it is working As you mentioned, I entered the static IP of the bridge in my browser and I can access my bridge settings, waw I love it!

 

Hi @moussaobeid -

 

So you want your Nimitra to have a fixed IP?

 

Here's the way to look at it:

• Your entire home network is a range from 192.168.1.1 to 255
  
• Your router is the gateway. It has a fixed IP on your home network, usually 192.168.1.1
  
• You should run your DHCP server on the router, and you can configure a range - say 192.168.1.50-150 of addresses to manage for devices that want a DHCP assigned address. You can change this range to be bigger or smaller, BTW.
  
• On your device, if it allows it, you can just set a static address, but make sure you pick an IP that is outside the DHCP range. Also, if you go static, then you have to be responsible for not assigning the same address to multiple devices.
  
• For intermediate devices like bridges, NASes, etc, that have a web UI for management, I prefer to set static addresses so I can bookmark their UI in my browser.
  

 

So keeping that in mind:

1. On your Asus router, which is the DHCP server, figure out what your DHCP range is.
   
2. Give your TP-Link bridge a static IP address that is outside the DHCP range. BTW - what you posted in your picture is where you turn DHCP off on your bridge. This is not where you set its static IP. That is probably up in the Network -> LAN pane.
   
3. On your Nimitra, just use the Windows adapter settings > TCP/IP v4 setting to assign it the static IP you want. Again - make sure it is outside the DHCP range.
   

 

That should be all you need to do.

[Cornan]

Thanks Cornan, I got it to work now with the static IP on the bridge only. Anyway, to be on the safe side, I ordered the Asus EA-N66, I found it refurbished on ebay for $39.99 ASUS EA-N66 Dual-Band Wireless-N900, 3 in 1 Access Point/Repeater/Gigabit Ethern | eBay.

The signal strength on my bridge shows 51db (2.4Ghz), not very high I guess

 

You are welcome Moussa! ?

Great price for that refurbished EA-N66.

Signal strength should be below -45dB IMO, so you are not far off. Preferably 5Ghz only though (ie. 2,4Ghz disabled on the wireless adapter) for best result.

[mozes]

The TP-WR802n has only 2.4Ghz

[Cornan]

The TP-WR802n has only 2.4Ghz

Then the Asus will be a better choise. It works with 5Ghz! ?

[Cornan]

Looking at how simple a passive volume control is constructed..

 

 

...I am quite confident I could build one myself with a attenuated volume pot as I want for my secondary setup. After a quick eBay search I have found these parts which come to roughly USD49 including freight and excluding silver solder and internal wires:

 

 

I am just collecting confidence to get this project started. Should be fun! ?

[mozes]

I received today the Asus EA-N66, looks nice and work like a breeze but it turned out that it needs 12V with 1A to work, so no battery!

Anyway, no waste I tried it as a bridge to my laptop in the basement and I got twice the speed of the built-in wifi so I am keeping it.

Wish they make 12v batteries

[lmitche]

They do, go to the Home Depot. They have all sorts of mini 12 volt car like batteries for < $40. RadioShack has them too.

[Cornan]

I received today the Asus EA-N66, looks nice and work like a breeze but it turned out that it needs 12V with 1A to work, so no battery!

Anyway, no waste I tried it as a bridge to my laptop in the basement and I got twice the speed of the built-in wifi so I am keeping it.

Wish they make 12v batteries

 

That was what I actually figured out when looking at the Asus AE-N66. They seem to have different versions of it, and I did tell you to check it out before a purchase! ?

 

Anyway, there is a lot of 12v battery packs available which works with 1A. Here is one for starters https://banggood.app.link/ksKLS04esz

No need to buy a huge car battery! ?

[mozes]

They do, go to the Home Depot they seem all sorts of mini 12 volt car like batteries for <$40. Radio shack does too.

 

I will go check it out then, thanks @Imitche

[lmitche]

I will go check it out then, thanks @Imitche

I use a 12 volt el cheapo with mine. An EMOsystems isolator provides isolation to the PC.

[Cornan]

@moussaobeid

Before run and order a battery pack you could check with Asus support if the Asus can be powered with 5v as well. For example TP-Link MC100CM comes with 9v supply but works with 5v supply. Since different versions are out there there is a slim chance that it can actually be powered with a 5v battery supply as well. Could be worth checking out anyway! ?

 

According to specs it consumes 12w (12v/1A). If you have a 5v/2,4A battery pack like the TP-Link Vivid it is also 12w, so it is not far off to assume it will work. Best to check to be 100% sure though!

[mozes]

Yes that's another way to do it, when I have some time, I will most likely get a "good cheapo" 12v LPS and test the ASUS against TP-Link 802N with the battery. I have the Acoustic Revive RLI-1 isolator, so will see which one solution I will prefer.

 

I use a 12 volt el cheapo with mine. An EMOsystems isolator provides isolation to the PC.

[mozes]

So having 4 batteries around and I am only using one, I thought of finding ways to use the other ones. One idea that I got inspired with after reading other threads here on CA is to try and power the SSD directly by a good LPS or a battery.

My SSD is 1TB and needs 5v at 1.4A so I will be doing this experiment as I have the right cable to use, pics attached.

I want to work on the cable a bit before I plug it inside the PC to minimize EMI/RFI by shielding it as you can see that this is a cheapo one without any shield or sleeve.

 

Any ideas or advice on where to start? I have one sheet of Stillpoints ERS cloth that I got some time for experimentation purposes but have never used it so far

[Cornan]

[ATTACH]34049[/ATTACH][ATTACH]34050[/ATTACH][ATTACH]34051[/ATTACH]

So having 4 batteries around and I am only using one, I thought of finding ways to use the other ones. One idea that I got inspired with after reading other threads here on CA is to try and power the SSD directly by a good LPS or a battery.

My SSD is 1TB and needs 5v at 1.4A so I will be doing this experiment as I have the right cable to use, pics attached.

I want to work on the cable a bit before I plug it inside the PC to minimize EMI/RFI by shielding it as you can see that this is a cheapo one without any shield or sleeve.

 

Any ideas or advice on where to start? I have one sheet of Stillpoints ERS cloth that I got some time for experimentation purposes but have never used it so far

 

Difficult to help you with shielding without seeing the inviroment it will be installed into. Shielding is all about implementation...and I am all against over-shielding stuff. Ofcource you can wrap it all in ERS paper, but IMO less is more with shielding and I would personally prefer to drain a copper shield to a grounding box to make sure that the EMI/RFI leave the sensitive inviroment instead of just being blocked/trapped inside. It will however be an expensive solution. Remember that distance is an excellent way of reducing the need of shielding. Installing the SSD in a aluminium HDD case outside the PC can for example be a good idea.

[mozes]

Difficult to help you with shielding without seeing the inviroment it will be installed into. Shielding is all about implementation...and I am all against over-shielding stuff. Ofcource you can wrap it all in ERS paper, but IMO less is more with shielding and I would personally prefer to drain a copper shield to a grounding box to make sure that the EMI/RFI leave the sensitive inviroment instead of just being blocked/trapped inside. It will however be an expensive solution. Remember that distance is an excellent way of reducing the need of shielding. Installing the SSD in a aluminium HDD case outside the PC can for example be a good idea.

Hmmm, installing the SSD outside the PC, I like this idea

[Cornan]

Hmmm, installing the SSD outside the PC, I like this idea

 

I think you´ll need something like this or similar/better to get a project like that going:

1. https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-External-Solid-State-Enclosure/dp/B00P1S5IWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1489580569&sr=1-4&keywords=SATA%2BIII%2BExternal%2BSolid%2BState%2BDrive%2BEnclosure&th=1

2. https://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/external_sata_port.html

 

...except vibration control (damping feets, platform etc).

 

Ofcourse you´ll need to check if these actually fits your specific SSD and PC before a purchase!

 

BTW. Did you see my post #494? You might be able to power the Asus with a 5v battery supply if you ask the support.

[mozes]

Thanks @Cornan, this is great stuff, This external enclosure gives me flexibility and I like the idea of having my SSD outside the PC case. Whether it will sound better, we will see, but even if it doesn't, doing this experiment is a lot of fun

 

 

 

 

I think you´ll need something like this or similar/better to get a project like that going:

1. https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-External-Solid-State-Enclosure/dp/B00P1S5IWG/ref=sr_1_4?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1489580569&sr=1-4&keywords=SATA%2BIII%2BExternal%2BSolid%2BState%2BDrive%2BEnclosure&th=1

2. https://www.endpcnoise.com/cgi-bin/e/external_sata_port.html

 

...except vibration control (damping feets, platform etc).

 

Ofcourse you´ll need to check if these actually fits your specific SSD and PC before a purchase!