The true experimental tweak thread

[Cornan]

I borrowed a Vbus2 and plugged it between my intona and RUR a couple of days ago. Honestly I couldn't really be sure that there is any effect on my system's sound. Maybe I heard a bit more details with a bit more brightness but I wasn't sure and thought it was my placebo. So I left it plugged in and decided to come back to it later to give it some time to settle. I know that we are always more sensitive to detecting losses than gains in anything, this is human nature.

 

Today I played one of my favourite tracks and then I unplugged the Vbus2 and played it again and noticed that the vocals lost some weight and the music overall became slightly thinner, subtle but detectable. I could only notice that with A/B comparison in a quiet room. So the Vbus2 will stay in my system now between the intona and RUR, happy with whatever performance boost it contributes given its low cost.

 

It seems that the USB game is abut to change big time very soon with new gadgets to hit the market, so I may need to revisit my usb chain in a couple of months

 

Thanks for sharing Moussa! ?

The Vbus2 is the first step towards unshielded 3-wire USB cables which sounds even better IMO.

Many nice USB gadgets in the pipeline for sure! There seems to be a race between manufacturers to be the first one to release a product with the combo galvanic isolation and improved clock...and some GND-lift features sneaking in here and there. It's about time if you ask me! ?

[mozes]

Thanks for sharing Moussa! 

The Vbus2 is the first step towards unshielded 3-wire USB cables which sounds even better IMO.

Many nice USB gadgets in the pipeline for sure! There seems to be a race between manufacturers to be the first one to release a product with the combo galvanic isolation and improved clock...and some GND-lift features sneaking in here and there. It's about time if you ask me! 

 

I am still using my curious usb cables which are shielded I guess. There is the new Vbus3 on the way as well. I like experimenting with cheap tweaks that have nice rewards. If I want to test unshielded usb cables as a replacement to the curious cables, what would you suggest?

 

This is a lot of fun indeed!

[mozes]

Here is my updated system diagram, every time I share a new diagram, it means that the system in its current configuration sounds better than the previous one

 

BTW, the dedicated mains improvement is by far better than all the tweaks I have done so far. Nothing comes close to it. It is at least 4 to 5 times better than any other tweak in my system

[Cornan]

I am still using my curious usb cables which are shielded I guess. There is the new Vbus3 on the way as well. I like experimenting with cheap tweaks that have nice rewards. If I want to test unshielded usb cables as a replacement to the curious cables, what would you suggest?

 

This is a lot of fun indeed!

 

Me too, I am all for cheap tweak experiments! ? It is usually a good way to find out what really matters.

 

My own suggestions would be Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite, since these are my own preferred USB cables (see my post regarding my coming Regen link). However, I know Curious Cable can also make just about any USB cable on request (special order), just like Elijah Audio and others manufacturers.

 

Since you are pretty good with a soldering iron you could also just as well do them yourself. Make sure to twist the data wires and have the GND wire slightly longer on a distance from the twisted data wires. This will reduce capacitive coupling. While you are at it you can also add a DC2,1 plug-to-socket on the GND wire. In some certain setups the GND lift is an awesome tweak. It was for me as well until recently.

[mozes]

Yes I am good with soldering but not good with wire technicalities stil

 

I didn't understand this part in your post as I don't know how to distinguish between a data and GND wire. Please translate what a DC2,1 plug-to-socket is

 

"Make sure to twist the data wires and have the GND wire slightly longer on a distance from the twisted data wires. This will reduce capacitive coupling. While you are at it you can also add a DC2,1 plug-to-socket on the GND wire. In some certain setups the GND lift is an awesome tweak. It was for me as well until recently"

 

Thanks for all the tips @Cornan!

 

Me too, I am all for cheap tweak experiments!  It is usually a good way to find out what really matters.

 

My own suggestions would be Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite, since these are my own preferred USB cables (see my post regarding my coming Regen link). However, I know Curious Cable can also make just about any USB cable on request (special order), just like Elijah Audio and others manufacturers.

 

Since you are pretty good with a soldering iron you could also just as well do them yourself. Make sure to twist the data wires and have the GND wire slightly longer on a distance from the twisted data wires. This will reduce capacitive coupling. While you are at it you can also add a DC2,1 plug-to-socket on the GND wire. In some certain setups the GND lift is an awesome tweak. It was for me as well until recently.

[Cornan]

Yes I am good with soldering but not good with wire technicalities stil

 

I didn't understand this part in your post as I don't know how to distinguish between a data and GND wire. Please translate what a DC2,1 plug-to-socket is

 

"Make sure to twist the data wires and have the GND wire slightly longer on a distance from the twisted data wires. This will reduce capacitive coupling. While you are at it you can also add a DC2,1 plug-to-socket on the GND wire. In some certain setups the GND lift is an awesome tweak. It was for me as well until recently"

 

Thanks for all the tips @Cornan!

 

I have a picture of a special made USB cable by Elijah Audio. This picture describes it better than words. Red cable is 5v power, black cable is GND and twisted white wires in silk sleevings are the data+ and data-.

In your cable you will not have the 5v and the you will only have one DC2.1/5.5mm male inline plug and one DC2.1/5.5mm female inline socket. I hope that explains it! ?

 

[mozes]

I have a picture of a special made USB cable by Elijah Audio. This picture describes it better than words. Red cable is 5v power, black cable is GND and twisted white wires in silk sleevings are the data+ and data-.

In your cable you will not have the 5v and the you will only have one DC2.1/5.5mm male inline plug and one DC2.1/5.5mm female inline socket. I hope that explains it! [emoji4]

 

[ATTACH]33947[/ATTACH]

 

Thanks now I got it!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[Cornan]

Here is my updated system diagram, every time I share a new diagram, it means that the system in its current configuration sounds better than the previous one

 

BTW, the dedicated mains improvement is by far better than all the tweaks I have done so far. Nothing comes close to it. It is at least 4 to 5 times better than any other tweak in my system

[ATTACH=CONFIG]33946[/ATTACH]

 

Looking very very good! ?

[mozes]

I just checked out Elijah Audio website, interesting approach to usb cables. In my setup I use 3 usb cables, so I think I will order one from Elijah and see how it is constructed and how it sounds. If It makes a difference for the better then I may build two more myself after figuring out where to get the material.

 

 

 

Thanks now I got it!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[Cornan]

I just checked out Elijah Audio website, interesting approach to usb cables. In my setup I use 3 usb cables, so I think I will order one from Elijah and see how it is constructed and how it sounds. If It makes a difference for the better then I may build two more myself after figuring out where to get the material.

 

This is how I have moved to my preferred cable after the Vbus1 (preferred Vbus2). My Regen link does'nt look that good now after a bunch of experiments with it to figure out how I wanted it in the end. Now when I know what sounds best in my setup I ordered a new one in shortest possible lenght! ?

 

If you want to use that cable on the spot where you are using the Vbus2 right now you should e-mailed to [email protected] and ask for a Konvertible Lite without 5v lead and send my picture as a reference (see my earlier post on this thread with my coming 115mm USB cable) in the exact size you'll need (but remember shorter is better).

If you want it elsewere you might want the Konvertible Lite with the DC female socket on the 5v lead the other way around (ie. at the USB B end) so you can use a power injection directly into the plug. Just a thought if you order! ?

[Cornan]

Just an update regarding my AppleTV/Chromecast HDMI experiment. First I unplugged the AppleTV and got reminded that it is not DC as I thought! ? Anyway, I unplugged it anyway plus the Chromecast HDMI in my daughter's room. Sat down and listen again on the same track as I listen to before, ie "Just a little bit" with Thomas Dybdahl. An immediate change for the better with a tad wider image and clearer presentation. Surely something to persue with additional experiments with only CC/AppleTV installed.

[Cornan]

The Chromecast HDMI is clearly the biggest villain among the two. I'll get a better improvement when just the Chromecast HDMI is removed vs AppleTV only. Perticularly audible in my secondary setup, but even in my primary setup (just with less overall impact). With AppleTV unplugged vs plugged in it is extremely difficult to hear any changes in SQ. Very small improvement unplugged and surely not enough to invest in a Peaktech 2240 for that reason alone.

I think I will just get a cheap on/off switched power strip for my daughter's Chromecast HDMI & plasma TV and ensure it is off during critical listening sessions from now on.

I might get another Peaktech 2240 for the AppleTV/Blueray later on, but feel that there is no hurry. My GF is turning 50 in August so I will have to save up some for that reason as well! A second Peaktech (which is very silent BTW) will have to wait!

[Cornan]

I have intensionally not listen to my main (headphone) rig for over a weeks time now, to "rest" my ears and return "fresh". I have also listened to the same album all week on my portable and secondary rig. This morning I listened to the same Thomas Dybdahl album again on my main rig. Goosebumps right away! ?

[mozes]

This is how I have moved to my preferred cable after the Vbus1 (preferred Vbus2). My Regen link does'nt look that good now after a bunch of experiments with it to figure out how I wanted it in the end. Now when I know what sounds best in my setup I ordered a new one in shortest possible lenght! ?

 

If you want to use that cable on the spot where you are using the Vbus2 right now you should e-mailed to [email protected] and ask for a Konvertible Lite without 5v lead and send my picture as a reference (see my earlier post on this thread with my coming 115mm USB cable) in the exact size you'll need (but remember shorter is better).

If you want it elsewere you might want the Konvertible Lite with the DC female socket on the 5v lead the other way around (ie. at the USB B end) so you can use a power injection directly into the plug. Just a thought if you order! ?

Thanks Cornan for the advice. I will do exactly as you suggested ?

[Cornan]

Here is the first review of the Aqvox switch-8

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/showthread.php?p=644680

Router and Ethernet Switch suggestions

 

Looks very promising indeed @moussaobeid! Al Jones is very trustable IMO.

[mozes]

Here is the first review of the Aqvox switch-8

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/showthread.php?p=644680

Router and Ethernet Switch suggestions

 

Looks very promising indeed @moussaobeid! Al Jones is very trustable IMO.

They were delaying my shipment as they were waiting for an EU to US adapter plug so I told them to ship it and I have some lying around. I am not 100% comfortable using an adapter on the power supply.

[Cornan]

They were delaying my shipment as they were waiting for an EU to US adapter plug so I told them to ship it and I have some lying around. I am not 100% comfortable using an adapter on the power supply.

 

Bummer! I hope you receive it soon. You've got something to look forward to in any case! [emoji4][emoji1360]

 

 

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[mozes]

I will be trying my TP-Link battery pack when I get it, lets see if their PS beats the battery?

 

Bummer! I hope you receive it soon. You've got something to look forward to in any case! [emoji4][emoji1360]

 

 

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[ducatirider]

Anyone remember Shun Mook cable jackets? I had good success with these on low level phono cables back in the day. I'm going to try them on power supplies.

 

 

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[Cornan]

I will be trying my TP-Link battery pack when I get it, lets see if their PS beats the battery?

 

Exactly my thought when reading Al Jones review. He tried several power supplies, but no battery. It will be very interesting to hear your impressions about battery power vs Aqvox psu! ?

[Cornan]

Anyone remember Shun Mook cable jackets? I had good success with these on low level phono cables back in the day. I'm going to try them on power supplies.

 

 

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Sure! I have been close to get them several times, but never got to it. Still interesting, but lately I am a bit more interested in the Entreq wraps though.

 

 

A local Swedish dealer have a great 25 years-in-business price with a special version of the the AC wraps (roughly USD50). I am very tempted to place an order but need to cool down due to other expenses! ?

 

http://www.lasseshifi.se/index.php?route=product/product&path=191&product_id=851

 

BTW. Here is another tweak I have wanted to try someday on my plugs. Acoustic Revives Pure silk absorber http://acoustic-revive.com/english/psa100/psa100_01.html

I know silk sleevings are amazing, so I guess these will be good as well! ?

[mozes]

I am getting frustrated with the TP-Link WR802n as a wireless bridge, it keeps disconnecting even without losing power or anything. ASUS was by far more reliable but it needs 19V!!

 

Any suggestions to a good low powered reliable router that can be used as a bridge and powered by a battery?

[bogi]

deleted

[Cornan]

I am getting frustrated with the TP-Link WR802n as a wireless bridge, it keeps disconnecting even without losing power or anything. ASUS was by far more reliable but it needs 19V!!

 

Any suggestions to a good low powered reliable router that can be used as a bridge and powered by a battery?

 

I would personally start by giving a static IP and if that is not working to reset the TP-Link WR802n if it have connection problems despite constant power feed. Another think is it to make sure it have got as strong wireless connection as possible by ensuring a higher level position with less physical obstacles in the path.

 

When it comes to routers I do not have any immediate suggestions. I am personally using the TP-Link RE450 AC 1750 wireless extender http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-5508_RE450.html in wireless adapter mode with great success. This one is connected to AC mains and therefore needs to be plugged into a isolation transformer for best result. It is very reliable though.

[Cornan]

@moussaobeid

Here is a list of routers approved by Auralic

 

Approved Models:

 

Netgear Nighthawk*AC1900

Netgear Nighthawk AC1750

ASUS RT-AC68U

ASUS RT-AC66U

Linksys EA6900 AC1900

 

I have'nt checked if any of these works with 5v input voltage...but I doubt it.

 

I know that this Asua EA-N66 wireless bridge is used my many CA members https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZT23ZE/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza which have a 5v power supply according to this page http://www.thinkbroadband.com/hardware/reviews/74-asus-ea-n66.html . It seems that this model have different types of power supplies when Google around, so I would double check it before order. It is a discontinued model, but still available and have got good reviews.