Building a DIY Music Server

[MarcelNL]

Are you referring to the first capacitor after the rectifier? That is where the ripple current always is going to be highest, it's the ripple current after the last capacitor that counts.

 

 

[Rovo]

corrct, but also the lifetime of the first capacitor is important (at least after some time 😀)

[MarcelNL]

high current caps should be able to cope, or you can try  an LCLC config?

 

[Nenon]

9 hours ago, Rovo said:

you mention to use a slightly different design ULPS in case you need more power. Can you share what your ideas are on this different design. Just playing with the idea to also provide my HQPlayer upsampling PC with an ULPS.

 

I can refer you to an earlier post:

On 9/13/2021 at 10:20 AM, Nenon said:

For those who want to play with the Hammond 195J10 or the even bigger Hammond 195K12 choke, here is what you need to do:

• 22000uF - Hammond 195J10 - 22000uF - Hammond 195J10 - 220000uF; or
• 22000uF - Hammond 195K12 - 22000uF - Hammond 195K12 - 330000uF

These designs will sound tighter and a bit more mechanical than the v2 and v3 I have shared. These larger values chokes will have a sound signature more typically associated with “digital sound” when used with the DIY DC-DC ATX. The difference in sound between these two versions is very minimal. But the Hammond 195K12 is very big and won't fit in the upcoming DIY chassis. You will need an external chassis for that. 

 

My recommendation still remains the V2 or the V3, but if you want to play with different chokes, at least make sure you have the right capacitance for the choke you are using. 

 

The Hammond 159ZJ perfectly powers my dual Xeon (85W TDP each) server, and I prefer them compared to the higher powered Hammond chokes as mentioned in the post above. 

[Aberrant-Decoder]

Deleted

[MarcelNL]

so, I finally got the PSU components in house, I'm just a bit puzzled by the power in Molex plug for the Taiko ATX....does anyone know what type that is? 

[MarcelNL]

forget it , it's a PCI-E cable connector, I sprang one loose of an old PSU harness :-)

[antonellocaroli]

what power supply do you recommend for a pc with cpu i9-12900K without graphics card?

650w is it ok or too much

[Exocer]

7 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

so, I finally got the PSU components in house, I'm just a bit puzzled by the power in Molex plug for the Taiko ATX....does anyone know what type that is? 

 

In case anyone else is wondering: Molex 0039039062

[oneguy]

On 11/26/2021 at 1:28 PM, oneguy said:

This is my current bios plan  I’d be interested to hear any feedback from the group. 
 

-HDPLEX H5 $398

-HDPLEX 400W DC-ATX $95

-Intel i9-12900K $620

-Gigabyte z690 aorus xtreme rev 1.0 $900

-G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5 $390

-Revelation Audio M2 $700

-SSD for music - reused what I have for now to stay on budget $0

-JCAT USB XE $897

 

$4,000 exactly as priced today. My budget was 3-4k with the potential to go up to 4.5k if I had. I still need an LPS to power the computer and an OS. 
 

Future plans would include the Taiko DC-ATX and unregulated power supplies once funds allow. 

Update:

parts have started to roll in and a few items have changed. 

-HDPLEX H5 $398

-HDPLEX 400W DC-ATX + 300W LPS $695

-Intel i9-12900K $565

-Gigabyte z690 aorus master rev 1.0 $390

-G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5 $390

-Revelation Audio M2 $700

-Optane 900p 480gb $515

[MarcelNL]

Does nobody wonder how that Saligny active rectifier can be fotted with the tiny connectors it has? I do, and even more when pondering how I shall connect it to the transformer secondary winding....soldering 2mm in diameter to something like 5mm diameter??

 

 

[Tatomek7]

10 minutes ago, MarcelNL said:

soldering 2mm in diameter to something like 5mm diameter

I did through intermediary wiring. 

[AngeloVRA]

25 minutes ago, MarcelNL said:

 

Does nobody wonder how that Saligny active rectifier can be fotted with the tiny connectors it has? I do, and even more when pondering how I shall connect it to the transformer secondary winding....soldering 2mm in diameter to something like 5mm diameter??

 

One option is to use a PCB.

 

You can remove the screw terminals and solder wires directly into the PCB as well. 

[MarcelNL]

I am so used to hardwiring due to building tube amps that I cannot bring myself to use a PCB for this purpose....I'm mostly puzzled by the size of the Saligny's legs when considering it can do 20A continuous....those legs must be glowing at that current...

[MarcelNL]

so the prototype PSU build is done, steady 36.1 V DC (without load)

500VA Toroidy, Saligny rectifier, Neotech UP OCC in 14AWG (single stretch for now)

Two Rifa 169  in 47.00uF , two Lundahl LL2773 in CMR and finally a Mundorf HC 47.000uF, no bypasses just yet.

 

[Medeo]

Привет, пока шли заказанные детали, не удержался и собрал из подручных средств прототип блока питания для Atx.

Отключив Hypsos Ferrum от ATX и подключив этот прототип (Hypsos подключил внешнюю USB-карту SOTM + CLOCK) - получил настоящий прирост звука! Спасибо за отличный совет, как улучшить звук!

[Medeo]

1 minute ago, Medeo said:

Привет, пока шли заказанные детали, не удержался и собрал из подручных средств прототип блока питания для Atx.

Отключив Hypsos Ferrum от ATX и подключив этот прототип (Hypsos подключил внешнюю USB-карту SOTM + CLOCK) - получил настоящий прирост звука! Спасибо за отличный совет, как улучшить звук!

While the ordered parts were going, I could not resist and assembled a prototype of a power supply unit for Atx from improvised means. Disconnecting Hypsos Ferrum from ATX and connecting this prototype (Hypsos connected an external card to USB) - got a real boost in sound! Thanks for the great advice on how to improve the sound!

[elan120]

On 12/8/2021 at 4:31 AM, oneguy said:

-HDPLEX H5 $398

-HDPLEX 400W DC-ATX + 300W LPS $695

-Intel i9-12900K $565

-Gigabyte z690 aorus master rev 1.0 $390

Have you check with Larry from HDPlex to see if HDPlex H5 case can physically accept the Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Master motherboard you plan to use?  According to HDPlex website, H5 case can accept ATX, mATX, and mITX,, but not EATX.  Since Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Master motherboard is an EATX motherboard, you might want to confirm with Larry to make sure.

 

 

 

[oneguy]

I didn’t but I based my assumption that I could make it work on the following:

 

-says any size motherboard

-E-ATX is 12x13”

-internal floor space is 13.3x14.2”

 

The DC—ATX will be mounted in the inside of the front face. It is only 1” tall

[oneguy]

33 minutes ago, oneguy said:

I didn’t but I based my assumption that I could make it work on the following:

 

-says any size motherboard

-E-ATX is 12x13”

-internal floor space is 13.3x14.2”

 

The DC—ATX will be mounted in the inside of the front face. It is only 1” tall

DC-ATX is only 1” thick. I think that is a little less confusing to convey what I mean. 

[MarcelNL]

NOt there yet, but the ATX module is now connected to my 36V, no magic smoke or anything else to show for....I tried to see if the 12V rails are powered but these only show 0.5V but that SATA connector has 5V....

For lack of any description is that JMPR 01 needed for anything or is connecting the EPS and ATX cables enough to allow me to use the MB pushbutton to power on and off?

 

(still working on the EPS and ATX cables.. or I'd simply try)

[Nenon]

44 minutes ago, MarcelNL said:

NOt there yet, but the ATX module is now connected to my 36V, no magic smoke or anything else to show for....I tried to see if the 12V rails are powered but these only show 0.5V but that SATA connector has 5V....

For lack of any description is that JMPR 01 needed for anything or is connecting the EPS and ATX cables enough to allow me to use the MB pushbutton to power on and off?

 

(still working on the EPS and ATX cables.. or I'd simply try)

 

If you are referring to the jumper on the Taiko ATX, that is an always-on jumper. I used it to force the Taiko ATX to provide 12V EPS after I killed one of the ATX rails early on before Taiko added protection. 

 

Without the jumper, the Taiko ATX is controlled by the motherboard (after you connect the 24-pin ATX of course). With the jumper, all rails are always on all the time. 

 

Think of the jumper as jump starting an ATX power supply - 

 

[Nenon]

On another news, I heard from Emile that the Taiko DIY chassis is now pushed to the end of January (the earliest) due to supply shortage. 

[Tatomek7]

17 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

Neotech UP OCC in 14AWG (single stretch for now)

I will repeat what @Nenon already said, wiring matters a lot, so consider to do that once and good. I know it's difficult to not check immediately, how it will sound, but if you will change wiring after, you will go through burn in process twice. BTW DC connection to Taiko ATX also impacts on sound ( a lot ). I just changed that few days ago and I was surprised, how big impact it has. 

 

17 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

no bypasses just yet.

 

I already had Vcaps ( x 3 ), KBG ( x 4 or 5 ) Mundorf Supreme SGO ( x 2 ) and Miflex KPCU ( x2 ). Each of them impacts on the final sound signature. VCaps gives lot of space, details, micro information, Miflex gives more bottom and reduces micro information. So, rolling them you can voice the ULPS to your liking. At the moment I have 1Vcap, 1 KBG, 1 Mundorf and 2 x Miflex. Still no 100% my cup of tea.

 

[prinz]

Are there any users here that changed regular chipset oscillator / quartz on computer motherboard for Crystek or similar quality clock?

I changed LAN clock twice and worked like a charm, but I am unable to successfully replace clock on the Asus motherboard chipset. Both times I tried computer does not boot and nothing I tried (bios reset, different points of clock signal injection) helps.

 

what are other users experience?