Building a DIY Music Server

[dminches]

18 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

something before the softstart is easy and simple enough, the current inrush is limited so any decent switch that can handle the VA rating of your transformer plus a good bit extra for good measure is fine.

Assuming you're using 400Va @110V that makes 4 A, I'd start looking at 8A or 10A or even a bit higher rated 2 pole switches you like (2 pole vs 1 pole probably depends on the local 'code' so do check).

 

If the switch is before the soft start I am not sure it need to be 4A or more (depending on the transformer).

 

[MarcelNL]

I want the switch to be no bottleneck, even if it sits after the softstart there is a max of 400VA (probably a bit less) going through it.

 

[Nenon]

In this case the switch just controls the softstart. It's not in series with the rest of the power supply. 

If you want to add a central on/off switch between the IEC and the softstart, then make sure you get a good quality switch. 

[Mags]

After taking some measurement it appears that Hypex softstart board would fit. The only problem is that shipping from the Netherlands to the US is more than the cost of the module itself!

Is there a US source to get these modules??

[Exocer]

4 minutes ago, Mags said:

After taking some measurement it appears that Hypex softstart board would fit. The only problem is that shipping from the Netherlands to the US is more than the cost of the module itself!

Is there a US source to get these modules??

Had to get my last one from SoundImports. Interested in a US source as well.

[MarcelNL]

17 minutes ago, Mags said:

After taking some measurement it appears that Hypex softstart board would fit. The only problem is that shipping from the Netherlands to the US is more than the cost of the module itself!

Is there a US source to get these modules??

did you check shipping cost from France? (Audiophonics.fr not sure US is an option)

[Mags]

Actually, I found this module from Connex for $50 shipped to my home. It has a SMPS but only to power the relay. It is actually a better fit in the amp than the Hypex and also has the pushbutton/LED feature I need.

https://connexelectronic.com/product/power-soft-start-v4/

 

[Nenon]

8 minutes ago, Mags said:

Actually, I found this module from Connex for $50 shipped to my home. It has a SMPS but only to power the relay. It is actually a better fit in the amp than the Hypex and also has the pushbutton/LED feature I need.

https://connexelectronic.com/product/power-soft-start-v4/

If you ask for my advice - pay the extra shipping cost from Europe for the Hypex. 

[MarcelNL]

did anyone experiment with mass/larger heatsinks on the CPU?

 

I just added and additional heatsink to the heatpipe connector and copper clamp I made and the result is more detail, more space around instruments and more authority...as if the CPU 'likes' mass and or temperature stability.

[Mags]

3 hours ago, Nenon said:

If you ask for my advice - pay the extra shipping cost from Europe for the Hypex. 

I bought the Connex because I'm curious about its quality. I plan to take some measurements and do listening tests to determine if the small SMPS powering the relay and LED is audible. Plus it's not much money if it sucks.

[RDOK]

18 hours ago, Exocer said:

I will have to try this! Interested in learning why you suggest single leads vs lowering resistance with multiple leads for the negative leads.

 

Was just going to ask you if this was Neotech UP-OCC. 16AWG?

 

Planning a full re-wire for scientific reasons with Neotech...

 

 

Indeed I used 16 AWG UP-OCC (stranded) Two wires for the first two legs, three for the last two and of course to the Molex connector to the Taiko DC-ATX converter.

 

17 hours ago, Nenon said:

Sure but make sure you use thick wires. A single 16 AWG wire is not recommended. I would use at least 11 AWG (which is what 3 x 16 AWG wires do). Lower resistance makes a much bigger difference on this power supply than star grounding, at least in my system. 

Good to know, I'll stick to what I have now.

 

Funny detail about the Hypex soft start module: Adding the small switch is optional. This means that if the path between the binding posts for the switch is open, the module is on, if it is closed it is off. A normal on/off switch works the other way round. So if the switch is in 0 (off) position the system is in fact on, and if the switch is in 1 position it is off. Just one small heart attack while testing the system :)

 

 

[dctom]

Hi 

 

Some help required - I am reconnecting my buffalo switch and am not sure which are the positive and negative 12v terminals. Grateful for any advice thanks.

[elan120]

1 hour ago, dctom said:

I am reconnecting my buffalo switch and am not sure which are the positive and negative 12v terminals. Grateful for any advice thanks.

See the picture below, the two pins on the top with RED circle are Positive pins, and the bottom two pins with Black circle are Negative pins.

 

[MarcelNL]

@elan120 NIce, a PD Ultra in a switch!

Did you audition the direction of the Mundorf s/g oil? I've always used them by connecting the positive where the lettering starts, just wondering (not using them anymore)

[elan120]

1 hour ago, MarcelNL said:

Did you audition the direction of the Mundorf s/g oil? I've always used them by connecting the positive where the lettering starts, just wondering (not using them anymore)

In by-pass cap setup, for non-electrolytic capacitors, outside foil should always be connected to ground, and Mundorf caps are shipped with leads identified.

[MarcelNL]

Thanks! I'll have a look when I stumble across them, I do not recall seeing any identification on the leads.

[dctom]

5 hours ago, elan120 said:

See the picture below, the two pins on the top with RED circle are Positive pins, and the bottom two pins with Black circle are Negative pins.

 

 

 

Thank you - I assume the surface terminals you marked correspond to my plug prongs - shown marked with purple.

[Tatomek7]

1 hour ago, elan120 said:

and Mundorf caps are shipped with leads identified.

I’ve just got today Supreme SGO and not see any marks. What I should look for?

[elan120]

16 minutes ago, dctom said:

 

 

Thank you - I assume the surface terminals you marked correspond to my plug prongs - shown marked with purple.

Yes, that is correct.  I removed mine while I was doing the modification.  However, your board look different than mine, so check it with a DVM to be sure.

[elan120]

15 minutes ago, Tatomek7 said:

I’ve just got today Supreme SGO and not see any marks. What I should look for?

Lead length.  According to information from Mundorf's website, the shorter lead indicates the capacitor’s outer foil.

[dctom]

46 minutes ago, elan120 said:

Yes, that is correct.  I removed mine while I was doing the modification.  However, your board look different than mine, so check it with a DVM to be sure.

 

 

👍👍

[Tatomek7]

20 hours ago, elan120 said:

Lead length

same length in my case, I have 3 of them - Mundorf Supreme Silver Gold 0,1uF bought in two batches and the same case, no difference in lead length.

[elan120]

46 minutes ago, Tatomek7 said:

same length in my case, I have 3 of them - Mundorf Supreme Silver Gold 0,1uF bought in two batches and the same case, no difference in lead length.

Did you purchased the "Classic" Supreme Silver Gold Oil or Supreme Silver EVO Gold Oil?  The "Classic" doesn't show the difference in lead length, but the non-classic, which is the one I use, do have difference in lead length.  See the screen capture below from Mundorf website.

 

 

 

Classic:

 

EVO:

[Tatomek7]

Thanks @elan120, now it’s crystal clear. I have Classic one. Nevertheless it has also outer foil, am I right?

[Mags]

9 minutes ago, Tatomek7 said:

Thanks @elan120, now it’s crystal clear. I have Classic one. Nevertheless it has also outer foil, am I right?

Do you have access to an Oscilloscope? If so, clip the scope leads onto the cap leads with the scope set on highest sensitivity and hold the cap tightly between your thumb and forefinger. Record the peak level of noise seen on the scope. Reverse the scope leads and again record the peak level of noise. The outer foil will be the side clipped to the positive lead of the scope in the orientation with the highest noise (or vice-versa, the side clipped to the ground lead of the scope in the orientation with the lowest noise).

If your body doesn't impart enough AC noise to detect then place the cap near an AC noise source such as a power cord and repeat the test. My body is usually plenty noisy...