The true experimental tweak thread

[Forehaven]

34 minutes ago, tapatrick said:

Hi Forehaven, I've adjusted mine internally to make it less dropdown for the LT 3045 boards...

Is this a matter of pin jumpers?  Does ps output need to equal the first regulator/ boards vdc output?  Like a 8.5 vdc board be supplied with a 8.5-9vdc ps?

[Cornan]

20 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Thanks that was it.   Anyone know of any isol boxes for these isol trans?  Otherwise, this is out of here as I can't stand the buzz, albeit small.

 

Not what I am aware of. You can minimize the impact by placing the IT on the floor (not in the corner) on a stone and surround it with sound damping materials. It will only limit the hum. Not remove it. Not all ITs hum though. My ATL and Peaktech 2240 is almost dead silent. My Elsund Ultra IT connected to my active speakers hum a bit. It is covered with damping materials inside a cubborn and connected to a simple ac mains switch which I turn off while not listening to music. I do not hear the hum while listening to music, but once it is turned off it is a bit annoying.

 

Another thing. If you convert it to a balanced IT many have reported a reduction in hum. I am 100% sure your one is possible to make balanced. Also it sounds better than unbalanced, but balanced with floating secondary sounds even better IME so far.

[Forehaven]

I game to rewire if I know the right way to do it.  I'm comfortable working w. elec, but limited knowledge on this topic.

 

You said earlier:  With my ISO Regen I will set my power supply to 9v and use two LT3045's in series with step-down 8v>7v.

 

So same question, what should be the ps voltage to the first LT3045?  1 V difference?

[Cornan]

5 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

I game to rewire if I know the right way to do it.  I'm comfortable working w. elec, but limited knowledge on this topic.

 

You said earlier:  With my ISO Regen I will set my power supply to 9v and use two LT3045's in series with step-down 8v>7v.

 

So same question, what should be the ps voltage to the first LT3045?  1 V difference?

 

I ordered the following voltage output of my LT3045's:

 

ISO Regen: 8v & 7v

Aqvox switch: 6v & 5v

 

I use Gophert csp-3205 0-32v/5.1A max floating SMPS to power each device. I set the Gophert for ISO Regen to 9v and the Gophert for Aqvox to 7v, so it will be 1v drop-down to the first and second LT3045.

 

I hope that helps! ?

[Forehaven]

Perfect.  Thanks. What threw me was seeing tapatricks 7.2 to 5 v pic for his switch .

[sandyk]

4 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

I am not comfortable giving advices how to float the secondary on a isolation transformer. I have not done this myself. I have just ordered the isolation transformer as I wanted them. The Peaktech 2240 have a floating secondary, the Elsund have a grounded secondary and the ATL is balanced and I ordered it with a toggle switch outside of the case for lifting the center tap ground.

 

Judging on the picture it looks like X11 is the one, but I strongly suggest that you ask someone with better knowledge in this area before any attempts. It is dangerous stuff! Someone like @One and a half, @Speedskater, @marce or @sandyk are people with great insight in to these things. Hopefully someone of these knowledgeable members could give you a firm answer to your question. I do not want to give you a wrong answer.

 

 I am not comfortable giving advice in that area either, without being there and using a DMM.

I think you will find that Garry (one and a half) has vastly more experience in this dangerous area than most members and MAY be willing to give advice, and especially about the need for protective measures as well.

 

 P.S.

 I see that the problem has now been solved , but I would strongly suggest that you ALL  invite input  from (Garry) one and a half about the use of Protective devices when removing earth connections, and using Isolation transformers in general.

[Cornan]

11 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Perfect.  Thanks. What threw me was seeing tapatricks 7.2 to 5 v pic for his switch .

 

What I noticed with the LT3045's is the I get something like 6,9v for the ISO Regen and not quite 5v for the Aqvox. I guess the LT3045's do not have a 100% accurate output voltage.

[One and a half]

4 hours ago, Forehaven said:

Cornan,  i’ve taken my transformer apart this morning to disconnect the secondary ground. However, the neutral became unplugged. The black wire. I’m not sure if it goes in the 10X or 11X next spot. Can you tell me which option the black wire goes back into the block? 

 

And, there's room to add another outlet, can I simply add the outlet, and use the same power wires to both outlets?

Which country you in with the transformer?

[sandyk]

6 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

What I noticed with the LT3045's is the I get something like 6,9v for the ISO Regen and not quite 5v for the Aqvox. I guess the LT3045's do not 100% accurate output voltage.

 I presume that the LT3045 modules do not use a trimpot for voltage adjustment ?

 In that case the actual output voltage will be dependent on the tolerance (1% etc. ) of the resistors used to set the output voltage.

 That is why it may not be straightforward to simply connect 2 modules in parallel, and expect proper current sharing.

[Cornan]

1 minute ago, sandyk said:

 I presume that the LT3045 modules do not use a trimpot for voltage adjustment ?

 In that case the actual output voltage will be dependent on the tolerance (1% etc. ) of the resistors used to set the output voltage.

 That is why it may not be straightforward to simply connect 2 modules in parallel, and expect proper current sharing.

 

The LT3045's have to be ordered with a preset output voltage. I am using mine in serial only and it sound really good to these ears. I have also ordered a LM317 plus a couple of 1000uF Elna SILMIC II (TM) by recommendation from @TubeMan that I will use pre my Aries Mini that requires min 14v/1,2A. It will be interesting to see how that turns out as well. ?

[Forehaven]

19 minutes ago, One and a half said:

Which country you in with the transformer?

US

[sandyk]

8 minutes ago, Cornan said:

I have also ordered a LM317 plus a couple of 1000uF Elna SILMIC II (TM) by recommendation from @TubeMan that I will use pre my Aries Mini that requires min 14v/1,2A. It will be interesting to see how that turns out as well. ?

 

 What Input voltage will you have going into the LM317T ?  

[Forehaven]

40 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Perfect.  Thanks. What threw me was seeing tapatricks 7.2 to 5 v pic for his switch .

I'm still not sure why though he used 2.2v extra vs. you only 1v?

[Cornan]

Just now, sandyk said:

 

 What Input voltage will you have going into the LM317T ?  

 

Not completely sure about that yet, but guessing something like 16v. I just ordered it 15 min ago and will find out before I use it ofcourse. Any recommendations of voltage input for Aries 14v?

[Cornan]

6 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

I'm still not sure why though he used 2.2v extra vs. you only 1v?

 

Not sure either. I wanted to keep my voltage drop as low as possible to keep the LT3045's cooler. 

[One and a half]

15 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

US

I need a whole photo of the connections including the primary, and which model transformer do you have?

Looks like a very old one with the spiderwebs still part of the assembly process  That's OK though.

[Forehaven]

6 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Not sure either. I wanted to keep my voltage drop as low as possible to keep the LT3045's cooler. 

Agreed, I thought there might be a heat issue as well.

 

I'll get you the photos.  Here's what I have:

 

High Isolation Transformer                                              

• Used
• Elgar
• Model No. HIT 1.0.001R
• Pri. Volts 120
• Rating 1.0 KVA
• Freq. 50/60Hz
• EFF.CAP≤.001R pfd

[sandyk]

19 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Not completely sure about that yet, but guessing something like 16v. I just ordered it 15 min ago and will find out before I use it ofcourse. Any recommendations of voltage input for Aries 14v?

 

 You will need > 16V into the LM317T for 14V at 1.2A Out.

 The LM317T requires a typical minimum input of 2.4V above it's output voltage for 1.2A at 25c temperature.

If the new PSU has a trimpot, it would be a good idea to adjust it's output to at least 16.5V if possible.  

[Cornan]

6 minutes ago, sandyk said:

 

 You will need > 16V into the LM317T for 14V at 1.2A Out.

 The LM317T requires a typical minimum input of 2.4V above it's output voltage for 1.2A at 25c temperature.

If the new PSU has a trimpot, it would be a good idea to adjust it's output to at least 16.5V if possible.  

 

Thanks Alex! Very helpful for me. I am using a Gophert csp-3205II for my Aries Mini as well, so 16,5v in no problem. I just started to read a little about the LM317 and I get a bit confused with the R1 and R2 capacitors. Is the 1000uF at in the input/output really a good choise with 14v output? 

[tapatrick]

47 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

I'm still not sure why though he used 2.2v extra vs. you only 1v?

Here is info on the LT3045s from Alexey at LDVOR on Ebay. The boards I order come in fixed output versions, you state the voltage when ordering

 

" Fixed output (Single Resistor Programs Output Voltage - 1.2V/1.4V/1.8V/3.3V/3.6V/5.0V/6.0V/7.5V/8.0V/9.0V/12.0V/15V)"

 

They will not be strictly at the voltage you order, most  PSUs or regulators are not spot on the stated voltage I believe. I use a Teradak outputting about 8v into a 7.5v then into a 5v for my Bluewave. I could have inserted a 6v as well but the dropdown from 7.5 to 5 is okay and does not generate any real heat to worry about. There is flexibility in using them this way with a volt here or there. Going with a wider gap would require heatsinks adding.

 

The 7.2v board into a 5v boards that I use into the Aqvox switch are 1 amp boards which have 2 regulators in parallel built into the board. It came as 7.2volts. I suppose you could parallel these to get 2amps but I haven't explored this territory (yet.. )..

 

Hope this clears up some confusion.

 

 

[sandyk]

2 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks Alex! Very helpful for me. I am using a Goohert csp-3205II for my Aries Mini as well, so 16,5v in no problem. I just started to read a little about the LM317 and I get a bit confused with the R1 and R2 capacitors. Is the 1000uF at in the input/output really a good choise with 14v output? 

 

At 1.2A output, if it is getting power via a transformer and rectifiers, you would need considerably more than 1,000uF at the input to the LM317T (e.g. 4,700uF)

If it is coming from an existing PSU's DC output, then 1,000uF at the input will be fine.

 As it will be powering another device that will have it's own input filter capacitors, then even as low as 100uF at it's output will be O.K. , with 1,000uF Silmics (as suggested) quite suitable at both locations.

[Cornan]

1 minute ago, sandyk said:

 

At 1.2A output, if it is getting power via a transformer and rectifiers, you would need considerably more than 1,000uF at the input to the LM317T (e.g. 4,700uF)

If it is coming from an existing PSU's DC output, then 1,000uF at the input will be fine.

 As it will be powering another device that will have it's own input filter capacitors, then even as low as 100uF at it's output will be O.K. , with 1,000uF Silmics (as suggested) quite suitable at both locations.

 

Thanks a lot! Then everything seems to be good to go. Tubeman have promised me a picture how to add the capacitors, so I get that part right as well.

 

Here is the LM317 I ordered BTW.

https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/arduino/stromforsorjning/luxorparts-variabel-spanningsregulator-p90772?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk5bh1qjx1gIVUDPTCh3vfwRsEAQYASABEgKKBfD_BwE

 

[sandyk]

4 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks a lot! Then everything seems to be good to go. Tubeman have promised me a picture how to add the capacitors, so I get that part right as well.

 

Here is the LM317 I ordered BTW.

https://www.kjell.com/se/sortiment/el-verktyg/arduino/stromforsorjning/luxorparts-variabel-spanningsregulator-p90772?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk5bh1qjx1gIVUDPTCh3vfwRsEAQYASABEgKKBfD_BwE

 

 

 I have used a couple of those modules with my JLH PSUs.

You will need to remove the heatsink and use an insulating washer ( and thermal paste if a mica insulator) to mount it to a suitably sized metal surface when used at > a couple of hundred mA.

Also, it can be further improved by soldering ( carefully) a 10 to 22uF electrolytic capacitor from the LM317 Adj. terminal to earth ( 0 volts) Connect +ve of the capacitor to the Adj. terminal.

This may improve the Ripple Rejection Ratio by as much as 15dB

[One and a half]

1 hour ago, Forehaven said:

Agreed, I thought there might be a heat issue as well.

 

I'll get you the photos.  Here's what I have:

 

High Isolation Transformer                                              

• Used
• Elgar
• Model No. HIT 1.0.001R
• Pri. Volts 120
• Rating 1.0 KVA
• Freq. 50/60Hz
• EFF.CAP≤.001R pfd

Don't worry about the photos,  I found the cut sheet of the Elgar transformer on the Ametek website.

[One and a half]

2 hours ago, Forehaven said:

Agreed, I thought there might be a heat issue as well.

 

I'll get you the photos.  Here's what I have:

 

High Isolation Transformer                                              

• Used
• Elgar
• Model No. HIT 1.0.001R
• Pri. Volts 120
• Rating 1.0 KVA
• Freq. 50/60Hz
• EFF.CAP≤.001R pfd

 

Two choices A - Standard Mode 120V, B - Balanced Mode 60-0-60. GND connections should be all green/yellow cable.

If heat is a problem, balanced mode yields cooler temperatures. It's important to use 90C or higher wiring inside the transformer.

Don't disconnect the cables that come from the internals of the transformer. In the end you won't know which is which, and I'm not going to help sort out that mess.

 

A- Standard Mode connections (most likely as delivered)

 

Primary

H1 - Black (HOT)

Join H1 + H2 (No other connection!)

Join H3 + H4 (No other connection!)

H4 - White (Neutral)

Join H5 + GND

 

Secondary -

X7 - Black (HOT)

Join X7 + X8 (No other connection!)

Join X9 + X10

X10 - White (Neutral) + Join to X11 + Join to GND

 

Install an off the shelf GFCI, the portable type, on the output of the Elgar's outlet and the output of the GFCI to the equipment.

 

B- Balanced Mode

 

Primary

 

H1 - Black (HOT)

Join H2 + H3 (No other connection!)

H4 - White (Neutral)

Join H5 + GND

 

Secondary

 

X7 - Black (Hot 1)

Join X8 + X9 + GND + X11

X10 - Red (Hot 2)

 

Install a 2 pole GFCI the portable type on the output of the Elgar's outlet and the output of the GFCI to the equipment.

 

 

When measuring the Balanced connection, there should be, when this picture is used as an example, HOT to Neutral 120V, hot to Ground 60V, Neutral to Ground 60V.

 

Attached is the HIT manual.

HIT Series - High Isolation Transformers.pdf