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So, here is the LT3045's in series for my AQVOX switch. 

 

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The Gophert powering the ISO Regen is set to 9v and the Gophert powering the AQVOX is set to 7v. Teradak Y-split USB power injection removed completely. 

 

Started to listening to Blue Hawaii's new album "Tenderness" which is a great album that I lately have listened to a lot.

 

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First impression is promising with a blacker background and clearer treble. Too harsh though. Headache warning! I had the IR with GI on, so I switched the GI off. Aaah, much better with a smoother less fatiguing sound and the image is much deeper. Strange that I always come back to GI off on my IR. ? Anyway, now the sound clearly opens up and it sounds just great without the USB power injection into the IR. Feels like I hear a little bit more in the background than before. Sounds that I have heard before, but now they are more refined and fiber rich. Goose bumps is there in the Versus Game track. Nice. Really really nice! Thanks @tapatrick for this awesome tip. I might take a flight just to give you a hug when I get the BluWave as well. You've been warned! ?

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6 hours ago, tapatrick said:

I've run my Iso Regen on 7.5v and 5v (through LT3045 boards) fed by 8v from Teradak PSU but I am using USB 5v power too. I tried adding clean USB power too a while back but it didn't work first try so I abandoned that route. To be honest I don't think this would make a difference as I have a good source from my Antipodes DXe and the way things are sounding now with 2 levels of isolation through the Iso Regen followed by the Bluewave I'm not so bothered to pursue that avenue.

 

I had another session listening late into the night, the sound with the Bluewave fed by LT3045s is spectacular to me. Voices have incredibly realistic nuances and inflections. Soundstage is deeper and wider, leaving the speakers and floating, details are multiplied, with increased air and transparency. Very pure sounding and sweeter... the realism is uncanny 

Didnt you mean 9v?  http://www.ebay.com/itm/2017-TeraDak-DC-30W-TOUCH-DC9V-2A-Hi-Fi-For-Audio-Linear-Power-Supply-/130906580297?hash=item1e7aa3e549:g:5UoAAOxyo4lRjkus

I didnt see one at 8v

Ryzen 7 2700 PC Server, NUC7CJYH w. 4G Apacer RAM as Renderer/LPS 1.2 - IsoRegen/LPS-1/.2 - Singxer SU-1/LPS1.2 - Holo Spring Level 3 DAC - LTA MicroZOTL MZ2 - Modwright KWA 150 Signature Amp - Tidal Audio Piano's.  

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I am rushing like a maniac between my both setups. I want to try everything before the family comes home again. Here is my last experiment today though. They will knock on the door in an hour or so, and I have clean up the mess and eat something before they come back.

 

Since my Teradak USB power split cable now was free to use in my B setup I simply added it to my Gustard DAC powered by a Regen Amber as a voltage regulator with a TP-Link Vivid 5v/2,4A powerbank supplying the juice to Regen Amber. Added a Sbooster Vbus 2 at the PC end of my Vertere D-Fi Pulse v2 USB cable. 

 

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Yes, a much improved sound as suspected. Now the Gustard is beginning to shine. My best sound up to date in my B setup. Crystal clear notes with deep firm bass performance. The treble is really glowing listening to D'Sound's album "My today". Great 3D and ambience. A very relaxing sound. 

 

I am still amazed how great the balanced IT is sounding with floating center-tap. It creates a magic similar to the floating Gopherts, but sort of puts all the pieces in the puzzle together. It is right up there with my best purchases ever. ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

I am still amazed how great the balanced IT is sounding with floating center-tap. It creates a magic similar to the floating Gopherts, but sort of puts all the pieces in the puzzle together. It is right up there with my best purchases ever. ?

 

 

 

Nice.  I suspect one might hop across to your 'A set up' one day!

 

 

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They will knock on the door in an hour or so, and I have clean up the mess and eat something before they come back.

 

I know the feeing. Good luck :D

 

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I had time for a quicky. I installed the ATL Hi-Fi starquad DC cable with JSSG between my Voltcraft 1134 floating LPS and my router.

 

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Someone with good memory might wonder where the Supra DC Blocker pre the Axing DC is? I had to temporarily remove it, since it suddenly started to reduce the network speed. Removing it resolved the problem. This did'nt happen with my Netgear router before, but aporerently my Compal is more sensitive. I will try it again at the wall inlet, but need to order a angled adaptor for it to fit there.

 

Anyway, just having a quick listen at my B setup the ATL DC starquad is improving over my DIY Canare 4S6 version with screw terminal plugs plug DC2.1/5.5 to DC2.5/5.5 adaptor. Everything sound airier and crispier than before. I guess the ATLs silver plated wires are responsible for this. Also the router end have a lot of cables around so the JSSG should make a difference there more than anywhere else in my setup.

 

I think I'll need more time to evaluate it more and compare it to the Ghent dito. I can only say that it is most certainly an improvement over my DIY versions just like Ghent.

 

Time to eat. I have eaten anything since breakfast. Over and out for now! ?

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15 minutes ago, John769 said:

Nice.  I suspect one might hop across to your 'A set up' one day!

 

 

You bet! :) Without being able to make a head-to-head comparence I would say that the ATL sounds slightly better than Peaktech 2240. It sort of brings order to the music, so all the sound landscape is more precisely put into their right spots. The bass performance is tighter as well I would say. Not at all a massive difference. If/when I will add a ATL to my A setup it will most likely be in combination with the Peaktech 2240. 

 

22 minutes ago, John769 said:

 

I know the feeing. Good luck :D

 

Thanks for your support! ?

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Cornan,  i’ve taken my transformer apart this morning to disconnect the secondary ground. However, the neutral became unplugged. The black wire. I’m not sure if it goes in the 10X or 11X next spot. Can you tell me which option the black wire goes back into the block? 

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And, there's room to add another outlet, can I simply add the outlet, and use the same power wires to both outlets?

Ryzen 7 2700 PC Server, NUC7CJYH w. 4G Apacer RAM as Renderer/LPS 1.2 - IsoRegen/LPS-1/.2 - Singxer SU-1/LPS1.2 - Holo Spring Level 3 DAC - LTA MicroZOTL MZ2 - Modwright KWA 150 Signature Amp - Tidal Audio Piano's.  

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41 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Cornan,  i’ve taken my transformer apart this morning to disconnect the secondary ground. However, the neutral became unplugged. The black wire. I’m not sure if it goes in the 10X or 11X next spot. Can you tell me which option the black wire goes back into the block? 

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I am not comfortable giving advices how to float the secondary on a isolation transformer. I have not done this myself. I have just ordered the isolation transformer as I wanted them. The Peaktech 2240 have a floating secondary, the Elsund have a grounded secondary and the ATL is balanced and I ordered it with a toggle switch outside of the case for lifting the center tap ground.

 

Judging on the picture it looks like X11 is the one, but I strongly suggest that you ask someone with better knowledge in this area before any attempts. It is dangerous stuff! Someone like @One and a half, @Speedskater, @marce or @sandyk are people with great insight in to these things. Hopefully someone of these knowledgeable members could give you a firm answer to your question. I do not want to give you a wrong answer.

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And if it buzzes, try spray poly onto the iron core and not windings right?

Ryzen 7 2700 PC Server, NUC7CJYH w. 4G Apacer RAM as Renderer/LPS 1.2 - IsoRegen/LPS-1/.2 - Singxer SU-1/LPS1.2 - Holo Spring Level 3 DAC - LTA MicroZOTL MZ2 - Modwright KWA 150 Signature Amp - Tidal Audio Piano's.  

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13 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

And if it buzzes, try spray poly onto the iron core and not windings right?

 

Buzzing have a lot of reasons. AFAIK the first thing to check is the bolts inside the case (look for cracks in the bolt joints). Ensure that they are firmly tightened. Personally I would not spray anything in there if I was'nt 100% sure where or what to spray! ? 

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After eating a microwave pizza in the kitchen (I did say I was home alone) while listening to my music from my speakers in my B setup it struck me. It have never sounded this great listening to music far away from the speakers. My appartment is a open design, but the kitchen is lokated 9-10 meters to the left of the speakers and roughly 2 meters behind the speakers. Still I can hear how great it sounds from the kitchen. Much better than I've heard it from there before. Really nice! ?

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46 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Cornan,  i’ve taken my transformer apart this morning to disconnect the secondary ground. However, the neutral became unplugged. The black wire. I’m not sure if it goes in the 10X or 11X next spot. Can you tell me which option the black wire goes back into the block? 

37A2249B-07E0-49EE-979F-0E9F21C3DE93.jpeg

 

And, there's room to add another outlet, can I simply add the outlet, and use the same power wires to both outlets?

 

Sorry, I think I misread your question. If you are looking to re-introduce the neutral black wire it is most likely X10. X11 is likely for floating/grounding the secondary. Anyhow, wait for someone with better insight to tell you a definitive answer.

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3 hours ago, Forehaven said:

Hi Forehaven, I've adjusted mine internally to make it less dropdown for the LT 3045 boards...

Topaz 2.5Kva Isolation Transformer > EtherRegen switch powered by Paul Hynes SR4 LPS >MacBook Pro 2013 > EC Designs PowerDac SX > TNT UBYTE-2 Speaker cables > Omega Super Alnico Monitors > 2x Rel T Zero Subwoofers. 

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13 minutes ago, tapatrick said:

Had a good day - repaired the GX12  canard starquad cable (that was causing shorts in my system and burnt out 2 x 7.5v reg boards) and fixed one burnt out LT3045 7.5v with a tiny replacement Tantalum cap. All working perfectly now 
Here are some pics and info on the burnt cap and replacement.  For fanatics only... back to the music now..:)

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Great work! Most of us are fanatics in one way or the other. I think we all like stuff like this! ?

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16 minutes ago, tapatrick said:

Hooray! :0 Great to hear and gets better after a day. The Bluewave will blow you away if it has the same impact in your system as it has in mine. Combined with the LTs is a sweet combo. When this hobby delivers after much trial and error the joy and pleasure is worth it Micael

 

"I might take a flight just to give you a hug when I get the BluWave as well. You've been warned! ?" I laughed out loud at this!

 

You are welcome but congrats goes to Tubelover 2 here on his epic thread: https://www.usaudiomart.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1172&sid=16ca5c17245558c9834e9918f8a21792&start=2265

and here: 

 

That's really nice to hear! ? I'm very much looking forward to the BluWave and will order more LT3045's as soon as I am all 100% clear about how I want it. I am a bit star strucked just how good my B setup already sounds without BluWave and LT3045's, so it will be extremely interesting to see where it ends up. Thanks to RB2013/Tubelover2 ofcourse. But you were the one to enlighten me. I am very grateful for that! ?

 

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1 hour ago, Cornan said:

 

Sorry, I think I misread your question. If you are looking to re-introduce the neutral black wire it is most likely X10. X11 is likely for floating/grounding the secondary. Anyhow, wait for someone with better insight to tell you a definitive answer.

Thanks that was it.   Anyone know of any isol boxes for these isol trans?  Otherwise, this is out of here as I can't stand the buzz, albeit small.

Ryzen 7 2700 PC Server, NUC7CJYH w. 4G Apacer RAM as Renderer/LPS 1.2 - IsoRegen/LPS-1/.2 - Singxer SU-1/LPS1.2 - Holo Spring Level 3 DAC - LTA MicroZOTL MZ2 - Modwright KWA 150 Signature Amp - Tidal Audio Piano's.  

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