The true experimental tweak thread

[Kritpoon]

1 hour ago, tapatrick said:

Just came out of a performance of Koyaanisqatsi with live score by GoGo Penguin. Stunning! 

 

@Forehaven If the pins are for an LT3045 board then yes, but it depends which way it is soldered to the board. Hopefully you can see in this image. I don’t use the grounds myself and make sure the bridge is on the correct  side of the 3 pin block to allow the board to function.

 Could you please kindly explain this set up? Vin? Vout? and max current?

[Abtr]

59 minutes ago, John769 said:

@Abtr Have you somehow modified your Airlink BPS 1502 to make it floating, or use another brand?

 

I currently run everything- PC, DAC with PRE, active speakers through a Peaktech 2240 floating PSU. Total system draw is 150 to 200 watts (max) with a watt meter.  Sounds pretty good but I am planning to get an Airlink 1500va, or perhaps 2000va, because the speakers might be better fed by a balanced IT.

 

I was thinking maybe to run the speakers only through the Airlink (once purchased) and the rest of the gear with the Peaktech.  Or alternately to plug both the speakers and peaktech (with other gear) into separate sockets of the Airlink.   There's also the option of selling the Peaktech and starting afresh, but only after making comparisons 

 

Anyhow just wondering what you might advise, seeing as you own the Airlink model I was planning on getting?  Thanks!

 

Well, if you have multiple (floating) balanced ITs then you can experiment with different configurations. My personal experience with the Airlink is that it's best to power only DAC, pre-amp and power-amps by the Airlink. All other (digital) audio gear is powered separetly (and is galvanically isolated from the DAC).

 

Regarding the Airlink BPS1502, I disconnected (floated) the secondary ground from mains Earth where it was bolted to the chassis:

 

 

And I installed a simple DC-blocker (no soldering required) : 

 

  

[Cornan]

So, the scheduled experiment with AQVOX switch grounded to the star-earthed socket of my starquad wired PSD and an additional Vbus2 connected at the Aries Mini end in hope to tame the slightly less transparent sounding background of my 8 conductor USB cable with JSSG. After a lot of simple scetches on paper earlier today I came to the conclusion that my Ghent JSSG DC Y-split powering both my AQVOX switch and ISO Regen power injection probably shared some leakage when the switch was grounded to both my Gopherts and AQVOX GND screw simultaniously. By connecting it to the PSD star-earth socket and Gopherts to Entreq Minimus that leakage path was removed. The VBus2 was a way to simply cut the voltage inside the cable between Aries Mini and Teradak USB injection.

 

Here is how it looks in pictures.

 

 

Did it help at all? Hell yes! ?

A very noticable improvement going through all the frequency range from highest treble to lowest bass. Everything feels tighter and have more body to it all. Transparency is increased to the same levels as my Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite. No more "I cannot be sure. Maybe it feels bit duller here and there?". It does'nt anymore. No doubts anymore. ATL is clearly better than Elijah Audio Konvertible Lite. It have a very natural, cosy and full body sound to it all. ?

 

 

[tapatrick]

28 minutes ago, Forehaven said:

Crazy and lovely film I just watched a bit on youtube, Thanks for mentioning Koyaanisquatsi.

 

And Thanks for the pic tapatrick.  And saying not using the ground mean you didn't solder that pin to the pcb?  This is also an in parallel setup correct?  I hate to ask, but do you have a pic of the other side of the pcb? Looks like you soldered connections on the back side exc. a couple of joints...so just need to know exactly where to solder.

Obvious to all I'm sure, this is my first time trying a project like this so I appreciate the help!

 

 

Glad to help @Cornan & @Forehaven  See here. I did solder the 3 pins on the reverse side, just a spot of solder and touch the pins with the solder iron so not to overheat the pcb and so they joint to the pcb in 3 separate places. Make sure they are separate with no stray solder joining anything other wise you could have potential trouble.

 

 

[John769]

18 minutes ago, Abtr said:

 

Well, if you have multiple (floating) balanced ITs then you can experiment with different configurations. My personal experience with the Airlink is that it's best to power only DAC, pre-amp and power-amps by the Airlink. All other (digital) audio gear is powered separetly (and is galvanically isolated from the DAC).

 

Noted and thanks Abtr!   The fact that I have a DAC and preamp in one unit makes separating things in the manner you suggested somewhat difficult.  Anyhow, I will most likely first try out Cornan's suggestion in plugging my great-sounding Peaktech (PC, DAC/ PRE) into the Airlink.  Not really up for doing DIY inside the IT even though I see from your pictures it's not over-complicated.   Thanks again.

[lmitche]

5 hours ago, Forehaven said:

Is the pin on the right side the ground pin?

The three pins are symmetric.  Just solder the three into the board.  You can then read the markings in the card to learn where to move the connector to power up the card.

[Cornan]

It is not over until it's over. I just removed the ground wire from the AQVOX switch to the PSD star-earth socket...and the sound got slightly better. The credit for my sound upgrade in my last post goes to the Vbus2 alone. Still no good use for my star-earth socket, but I am not giving up on it just yet (my last option is ofcourse to connect a grounding box to the socket)! ?

It also confirms my conclution that the DC negative output grounding removed the need for network switch grounding.

[tapatrick]

 

39 minutes ago, Kritpoon said:

 Could you please kindly explain this set up? Vin? Vout? and max current?

Hi @Kritpoon See back on page 97+ -  September 17th for details on how I've used the LT3045 boards with pics..

 

[mikicasellas]

Hi,

 

Where do yuo connect his device, before or after the transformer which is connected to the wall? any pictures?

 

 

5 hours ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks Abtr! This is the same type that I have found as well.

 

Yeah, the balanced IT with floating center tap sounds truly great. Thanks for the tip! ?

 

[Cornan]

3 hours ago, mikicasellas said:

Hi,

 

Where do yuo connect his device, before or after the transformer which is connected to the wall? any pictures?

 

 

 

The ATL balanced transformer with floated/grounded center-tap switch is connected like this in my B setup (see profile/audio system for details):

 

Signal chain:

AC mains wall inlet> BlueWalker PowerWalker AVR 1200VA> ATL Balanced isolation transformer with floated/grounded center-tap switch*> Naim MusicLine PSD> DAC/Wireless adapter/Switch/Laptop

 

* The switch is the blue pilot safety cover toggle switch seen on the picture. With this I can instantly switch between grounded and floated center-tap. The floating center-tap option sounds truly great.

 

Speaker chain:

AC mains wall outlet> Elsund Ultra isolation transformer (grounded secondary with electrostatic shield)> Active Speakers

 

The balanced IT is locked inside a cubborn. I did'nt have time to take pictures before I installed it. Anyway here is a couple of pictures of it followed by a picture of the BlueWalker PowerWalker.

 

 

 

[John769]

Re-tested my powerwalker AVR 2000 through headphones (ie without the speakers turned on). Didn''t like the sound, as it sort of stops the music from breathing and is airier when removed.  Looks like it's probably not a keeper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Cornan]

3 minutes ago, John769 said:

Re-tested my powerwalker AVR 2000 through headphones (ie without the speakers turn on). Didn''t like the sound, as it sort of stops the music from breathing and is airier when removed.  Looks like it's probably not a keeper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing John769!  

That´s strange in a way! The PowerWalker AVR 1200VA did sort of pump the music full of oxygene in my A setup with Brooklyn DAC and Fostex TH900 headphones. That´s sort of the other way around with the PowerWalker AVR 2000VA in your setup then? 

[John769]

1 minute ago, Cornan said:

 

Thanks for sharing John769!  

That´s strange in a way! The PowerWalker AVR 1200VA did sort of pump the music full of oxygene in my A setup with Brooklyn DAC and Fostex TH900 headphones. That´s sort of the other way around with the PowerWalker AVR 2000VA in your setup then? 

Pretty much. Tested like yours straight into the wall before the DC blocker.  I do have a couple of cables running in, and the minimus still stabilising, so will give a final check in a few days.  Not expecting it to come good but let's see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[John769]

47 minutes ago, John769 said:

Pretty much. Tested like yours straight into the wall before the DC blocker.  I do have a couple of cables running in, and the minimus still stabilising, so will give a final check in a few days.  Not expecting it to come good but let's see.

One thing I do like about it is the constant readout of my mains.  It shows an average of around 243 volts (UK), which is a relief because my multimeter was showing a far higher figure the other day and obviously needs re-calibrating!

[Cornan]

49 minutes ago, John769 said:

Pretty much. Tested like yours straight into the wall before the DC blocker.  I do have a couple of cables running in, and the minimus still stabilising, so will give a final check in a few days.  Not expecting it to come good but let's see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It makes me curious what sets the 2000VA and the 1200VA version appart? I think I´ll need to read up on the 2000VA version. 

[Cornan]

7 minutes ago, John769 said:

One thing I do like about it is the constant readout of my mains.  It shows an average of around 243 volts (UK), which is a relief because my multimeter was showing a far higher figure the other day and obviously needs re-calibrating!

 

Thats great you got that sorted out at least!  I know you have a Meyian LPS powering your Brooklyn DAC in your setup. Is it possible to see how it turns out if you connect the Brooklyn DAC with AC mains power cable instead (using the internal SMPS). Only if you want to ofcourse!  

 

Also check that you have the correct phase. If you do not know hoe to measure just twist the PowerWalkers AC mains cable 90 degrees.

[John769]

I only have a multimeter, not other tools but will give both those a try.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Monge]

1 hour ago, John769 said:

Re-tested my powerwalker AVR 2000 through headphones (ie without the speakers turned on). Didn''t like the sound, as it sort of stops the music from breathing and is airier when removed.  Looks like it's probably not a keeper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for sharing 

Like Cornan said. I would check if the phase is correct. When I first plugged In my Powerwalker AVR 1200 I did it out of phase.

 

@Cornan Thanks for sharing and the nice pictures.

[Abtr]

17 hours ago, mikicasellas said:

Hi,

 

Where do yuo connect this device, before or after the transformer which is connected to the wall? any pictures?

 

A 2 pole RCD must be connected in series with the AC *output* of a floating balanced mains isolation transformer, because any potentially lethal short to the equipment chassis won't trip your regular leakage current detector (centrally positioned before the IT). An RCD at the floating balanced output will trip and disconnect both AC output poles when a current difference of about 30mA is detected between the poles, which takes care of the problem. (Note that  the equipment chassis is connected to balanced ground/null at the secondary center tap of the IT).

[John769]

Hi @Abtr. When your model BPS1502EU is used in standard form (ie without your floating modification), does it need an RCD on the output at all (which would be for my speakers)?  How about if I plugged my Peaktech floating IT into one of the sockets, which already has a portable RCD on it:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007K50PS0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

 

Thanks in advance..

 

 

 

 

[Abtr]

1 hour ago, John769 said:

Hi @Abtr. When your model BPS1502EU is used in standard form (ie without your floating modification), does it need an RCD on the output at all (which would be for my speakers)?

The standard form with secondary center tap connected to mains Earth will trip your regular central AC leakage current detector in case of a (balanced) short to chassis, so it doesn't need the output RCD.

 

Quote

How about if I plugged my Peaktech floating IT into one of the sockets, which already has a portable RCD on it:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B007K50PS0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE

I guess that might be safe if it's a 2-pole RCD/GFCI..

[Forehaven]

tapatrick, if I wanted to do parallel as well for this:

For the ISO Regen,

- Dc Y-cable leg 1 to 6 volt LDO between lps-1 and Regen

- Dc Y-cable leg 2 to  5 volt LDO using idefender power input with idefender stuck in Regen output side

 

For SU-1

- 5  volt LDO to SU-1

 

Then should I just get another 2 5v and 1 6v to do  a parallel setup?

 

[tapatrick]

Hi @Cornan My Bluewave just arrived! and I had it up and running in a short time. No problem with my Linux server (Lucian has been having some trouble with Linux based sources). I have it temporarily set up and will install it properly at weekend. I have it powered with a 5v external LT3045 and fed by Iso Regen powered by 7.5v LT3045. Sounding fabulous out of the box but will let it burn in for a few days. Very happy so far.

 

This is Lucian Romega's new USB to SPDIf converter, a thing of beauty with latest NZ2520SDA Ultra Low Phase Noise Oscillators. If you look close it has BNC connectors for external clock too, no need for mods.

Diy Audio thread here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/304537-bluwave-usb-spdif-bridge-miniature-beauty-17.html

Lucian is going to show me how to also bypass the internal reg on the isolated side so I can power directly with a LT3045 board... Much fun and enjoyment with a noticeable uplift in musicality, depth, and clarity already.

 

 

 

[tapatrick]

1 hour ago, Forehaven said:

tapatrick, if I wanted to do parallel as well for this:

For the ISO Regen,

- Dc Y-cable leg 1 to 6 volt LDO between lps-1 and Regen

- Dc Y-cable leg 2 to  5 volt LDO using idefender power input with idefender stuck in Regen output side

 

For SU-1

- 5  volt LDO to SU-1

 

Then should I just get another 2 5v and 1 6v to do  a parallel setup?

 

Hi @Forehaven Yes, to parallel the boards that sounds right. Curious why you want to parallel them? I understand this gives even more noise reduction to an already ultra low profile but if you need more current then parallel is way to go.

You probably picked up that I run them in series ie 7.5v into a 5v (both 500mA) with same configuration into my Aqvox switch but with 1 amp boards. This maximises the noise reduction to amazing effect.

 

...by the way just listening to my new Bluewave USB to SPDIF powered by LT3045s, after a few hours it has opening up and is quite awesome, incredible timing and precision, clean, open and pure sounding...

[Forehaven]

1 hour ago, tapatrick said:

Hi @Forehaven Yes, to parallel the boards that sounds right. Curious why you want to parallel them? I understand this gives even more noise reduction to an already ultra low profile but if you need more current then parallel is way to go.

You probably picked up that I run them in series ie 7.5v into a 5v (both 500mA) with same configuration into my Aqvox switch but with 1 amp boards. This maximises the noise reduction to amazing effect.

 

...by the way just listening to my new Bluewave USB to SPDIF powered by LT3045s, after a few hours it has opening up and is quite awesome, incredible timing and precision, clean, open and pure sounding...

So cool to hear your new sound with the Bluewave and LT3045s.  I'm looking forward to implementing these chip boards.  I may have to wait as I'm sporting a cool Cubby Blue  colored cast for a broken r. arm.  Ugh...

 

But yes, to decrease noise.  I need to learn more about all this lol  I admittedly still am not clear how the 1 amp boards can be used in so many ways.  So Thanks for the help tapatrick!!