The "Official" Aurender Discussion Thread

[Vincent1234]

I use the Cardas High Speed USB (blue and the USB cables are split into two cables (I think this is the one you're referring to?) - with my N100H. I've tried about 10 USB cables and the Cardas is the best with the Aurender by a landslide!'

Try the Crystal Cable Dreamline Plus USB. Stunning! [emoji4]

 

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[coot]

Try the Crystal Cable Dreamline Plus USB. Stunning! [emoji4]

 

 

At $4,000 it certainly stunned me!

[Vincent1234]

At $4,000 it certainly stunned me!

Probably a better fit to the N10 or W20, yes. [emoji6] But nonetheless, you won't believe your own ears when you hear it.. And in Europe it's less expensive.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[r_w]

Probably not as good however as 2 x 5cm runs of really ordinary, crap even (data only, GND lift after handshake) wire and an Intona Industrial.

 

Sad but extremely likely to be true.

 

Not having a dig mind, just a helpful reality check for those who seek the truth at real world prices.

 

 

 

Probably a better fit to the N10 or W20, yes. [emoji6] But nonetheless, you won't believe your own ears when you hear it.. And in Europe it's less expensive.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[Vincent1234]

Probably not as good however as 2 x 5cm runs of really ordinary, crap even (data only, GND lift after handshake) wire and an Intona Industrial.

 

Sad but extremely likely to be true.

 

Not having a dig mind, just a helpful reality check for those who seek the truth at real world prices.

Don't judge before you have heard them. Mono crystal really works wonders. Check out the Hifi+ review for those interested. I'm not trying to promote or sell anything. I was simply blown away by the improvements, and so were others.

 

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[r_w]

That's fine... I'm not saying it doesn't sound excellent and definitely not meant as a dig.

 

;-)

 

... but, I would invite you/them to do what I have done and then compare.

 

I'm as sure as can be that my USB signal path is unlikely to improve at any price (save for perhaps how it's powered).

 

If you think about it, galvanically isolating the source, making runs as short as possible and completely cutting the GND connection throughout has to be at least as effective than what any single piece of wire (regardless of materials or construction) is capable of doing.

 

Once the GND line is broken, the electrical relationship is completely altered - the Intona works wonders and is loved By a great many.

 

The point was there are many ways to achieve truly great results... but only one can be the most cost effective.

 

 

Don't judge before you have heard them. Mono crystal really works wonders. Check out the Hifi+ review for those interested. I'm not trying to promote or sell anything. I was simply blown away by the improvements, and so were others.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[Vincent1234]

That's fine... I'm not saying it doesn't sound excellent and definitely not meant as a dig.

 

;-)

 

... but, I would invite you/them to do what I have done and then compare.

 

I'm as sure as can be that my USB signal path is unlikely to improve at any price (save for perhaps how it's powered).

 

If you think about it, galvanically isolating the source, making runs as short as possible and completely cutting the GND connection throughout has to be at least as effective than what any single piece of wire (regardless of materials or construction) is capable of doing.

 

Once the GND line is broken, the electrical relationship is completely altered - the Intona works wonders and is loved By a great many.

 

The point was there are many ways to achieve truly great results... but only one can be the most cost effective.

I do believe the Intona can provide huge improvements to many systems. However, my previous attempt with the AQ Jitterbug (a very different concept than Intona, I know) was actually counterproductive. I guess the quality of the USB connection on both sides is crucial to be able to decide what works and what doesn't. In case of the N10 and my brand new dCS Rossini I don't think there's any reason for complaints [emoji4] and also I think galvanic isolation is already used in one or both of these devices. I know for sure that my previous Puccini U-Clock already had galvanic isolation, so it's very likely that the Rossini has it too which would make the Intona superfluous. And contrary to other reports even then the improvement with the Crystal Cable was and is simply unbelievable.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[r_w]

It would be good to compare... I'm still backing myself.

 

;-)

 

... yes in my system the AQJB was certainly counter productive. I think it's mainly for improving poor quality gear, not high-end components. People that are using them on high-end gear should remove them and see if the 'music' improves.

 

 

 

 

I do believe the Intona can provide huge improvements to many systems. However, my previous attempt with the AQ Jitterbug (a very different concept than Intona, I know) was actually counterproductive. I guess the quality of the USB connection on both sides is crucial to be able to decide what works and what doesn't. In case of the N10 and my brand new dCS Rossini I don't think there's any reason for complaints [emoji4] and also I think galvanic isolation is already used in one or both of these devices. I know for sure that my previous Puccini U-Clock already had galvanic isolation, so it's very likely that the Rossini has it too which would make the Intona superfluous. And contrary to other reports even then the improvement with the Crystal Cable was and is simply unbelievable.

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[Vincent1234]

It would be good to compare... I'm still backing myself.

 

;-)

 

... yes in my system the AQJB was certainly counter productive. I think it's mainly for improving poor quality gear, not high-end components. People that are using them on high-end gear should remove them and see if the 'music' improves.

Fully agree on the AQJB. That was exactly my experience too: I thought it was actually OK and an improvement for months. Then I removed it from the X100L I was using at the time and the soundstage as well as the highs opened up significantly. However, it does work pretty well on the USB port of my main router. Seems to give more silence and a better rounded performance.

 

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[talli]

I'm thinking of buying AURENDER N100H, but I have a question.

All my files from Redbook are now on a NAS, if i put, for example, HiRez files on Aurender can i see them all in the same library on ipad or I will have two libraries?

 

thanks

ciao, Corrado

[agladstone]

That's fine... I'm not saying it doesn't sound excellent and definitely not meant as a dig.

 

;-)

 

... but, I would invite you/them to do what I have done and then compare.

 

I'm as sure as can be that my USB signal path is unlikely to improve at any price (save for perhaps how it's powered).

 

If you think about it, galvanically isolating the source, making runs as short as possible and completely cutting the GND connection throughout has to be at least as effective than what any single piece of wire (regardless of materials or construction) is capable of doing.

 

Once the GND line is broken, the electrical relationship is completely altered - the Intona works wonders and is loved By a great many.

 

The point was there are many ways to achieve truly great results... but only one can be the most cost effective.

 

I have A/B with and without Jitterbug per your advice in Isolation thread and still think Jitterbug sounds better?? I wonder why??

Im going to just take your advice and follow consensus and remove it (I will put it in my router per Vincent suggestions).

Now I need to buy an intona !!

So the important question I have for you is,,, how much will you charge me to build me a few of your DYI USB 5V grnd lift cables??

i would need one out of Aurender, 1 into RUR and 1 out of RUR (that sounds correct?)

PM me if you would consider making and selling me 2-3 of these, I would really like to take you up on your "experiment with these" suggestion and I have zero capability of being able to make my own to try it!!

Allen

[r_w]

Honestly it's so simple to do, just buy the USB connectors on ebay, a soldering iron, some solder and some good cable and make your own.

 

I'm happy to give you the instructions, but I'm not in the market of making cables.

 

Once you've done the first, you'll probably, like me, end up DIY'ing the rest of the system to perfect lengths.

 

... you CAN do this, it's probably the most basic entry level electronics possible - for me barely it even qualifies as electrical engineering.

 

 

 

So the important question I have for you is,,, how much will you charge me to build me a few of your DYI USB 5V grnd lift cables??

i would need one out of Aurender, 1 into RUR and 1 out of RUR (that sounds correct?)

PM me if you would consider making and selling me 2-3 of these, I would really like to take you up on your "experiment with these" suggestion and I have zero capability of being able to make my own to try it!!

Allen

[agladstone]

Honestly it's so simple to do, just buy the USB connectors on ebay, a soldering iron, some solder and some good cable and make your own.

 

I'm happy to give you the instructions, but I'm not in the market of making cables.

 

Once you've done the first, you'll probably, like me, end up DIY'ing the rest of the system to perfect lengths.

 

... you CAN do this, it's probably the most basic entry level electronics possible - for me barely it even qualifies as electrical engineering.

Do you think that I could modify my curious cables full loom to accomplish the same thing? Either with switch or some other type of disconnect?

I would appreciate instructions ! My email is [email protected]

Ibe never soldered anything before, but I'm sure with some YouTube videos I could figure out how to solder properly?

Thank you!

Allen

[The Computer Audiophile]

If anyone is interested in working for Aurender, you'll want to check this out -> http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f8-general-forum/aurender-looking-hire-someone-30498/

[jdandy]

Newbie to the forum. I am enjoying this insightful Aurender thread. At this time I am teetering on the fence about purchasing the Aurender N10 to replace an aging Olive 04HD with its archaic iPad control app, and also replacing a Sony Vaio laptop I am using as a high-res server with JRiver Media Center 21 via USB to my Esoteric K-03 DAC. I have researched and read nearly every review of the N10 I could find. One question I have not discovered the answer to is how proprietary USB drivers are handled or installed on the N10. The Esoteric K-03 uses a specific USB driver for the USB asynchronous High Speed 2 mode. Does the N10 have a library of installed proprietary USB drivers to select from or must a user install their specific USB driver? If the driver is user installed, how is this accomplished? My connection preference is to use the SPDIF coaxial output in order to take advantage of the N10's premium clock generator, but I still want to understand how the N10 manages USB drivers. Any help will be appreciated.

[westelk]

I'm thinking of buying AURENDER N100H, but I have a question.

All my files from Redbook are now on a NAS, if i put, for example, HiRez files on Aurender can i see them all in the same library on ipad or I will have two libraries?

thanks

ciao, Corrado

 

Corrado,

Everything you load onto the N100 hard drive will show up in the library. It will allow you to view it by artist, album, genre etc. There is also a DSD button that lets you show only the DSD music in your library. Also, it will display buttons for the first several folders (alphabetically) in your library. So what I do is make the first folders 16bit, 1Hi Rez, 1Mp3, 1Compilation or something to that effect. There is also a button to let you view your library by folder. The N100 is very versatile, easy and intuitive to use and sounds GREAT!

[Pat Case]

Corrado,

Everything you load onto the N100 hard drive will show up in the library. It will allow you to view it by artist, album, genre etc. There is also a DSD button that lets you show only the DSD music in your library. Also, it will display buttons for the first several folders (alphabetically) in your library. So what I do is make the first folders 16bit, 1Hi Rez, 1Mp3, 1Compilation or something to that effect. There is also a button to let you view your library by folder. The N100 is very versatile, easy and intuitive to use and sounds GREAT!

 

You'd have to pry my N100H from my cold dead hands. I've got 45,000 track of mixed hi resend lossy music on it and still have 40% of the drive free! One of the best investments that I've ever made. Be careful though, the Aurender line is an antidote to upgraditis.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile

[rwwjr44]

Newbie to the forum. I am enjoying this insightful Aurender thread. At this time I am teetering on the fence about purchasing the Aurender N10 to replace an aging Olive 04HD with its archaic iPad control app, and also replacing a Sony Vaio laptop I am using as a high-res server with JRiver Media Center 21 via USB to my Esoteric K-03 DAC. I have researched and read nearly every review of the N10 I could find. One question I have not discovered the answer to is how proprietary USB drivers are handled or installed on the N10. The Esoteric K-03 uses a specific USB driver for the USB asynchronous High Speed 2 mode. Does the N10 have a library of installed proprietary USB drivers to select from or must a user install their specific USB driver? If the driver is user installed, how is this accomplished? My connection preference is to use the SPDIF coaxial output in order to take advantage of the N10's premium clock generator, but I still want to understand how the N10 manages USB drivers. Any help will be appreciated.

 

This is a question for the Aurender folks. AFAIK, there was only DAC that had USB interface problems BUT I may well be wrong.

[jdandy]

This is a question for the Aurender folks. AFAIK, there was only DAC that had USB interface problems BUT I may well be wrong.

rwwjr44.......I appreciate your response. I have seen a number of photos of the Aurender N10 that display DAC information in the right side display. The photos below shows DAC information: Async 44.1KHz PS Audio USB Audio 2.0 and Async (384KHz) dCS Rossini Player USB. I have seen other photos that showed an Async Meitner DAC and others displayed at various sampling rates. I need to be assured that the N10 will have no issues with the asynchronous USB High Speed 2 setting on my Esoteric K-03. I would hate to order a new Aurender N10 and discover an asynchronous USB incompatibility between my DAC and the N10 music server.

 

 

 

 

[bpw]

Newbie to the forum. I am enjoying this insightful Aurender thread. At this time I am teetering on the fence about purchasing the Aurender N10 to replace an aging Olive 04HD with its archaic iPad control app, and also replacing a Sony Vaio laptop I am using as a high-res server with JRiver Media Center 21 via USB to my Esoteric K-03 DAC. I have researched and read nearly every review of the N10 I could find. One question I have not discovered the answer to is how proprietary USB drivers are handled or installed on the N10. The Esoteric K-03 uses a specific USB driver for the USB asynchronous High Speed 2 mode. Does the N10 have a library of installed proprietary USB drivers to select from or must a user install their specific USB driver? If the driver is user installed, how is this accomplished? My connection preference is to use the SPDIF coaxial output in order to take advantage of the N10's premium clock generator, but I still want to understand how the N10 manages USB drivers. Any help will be appreciated.

 

A DAC which relies upon a special driver for a server to work with it will not work with an Aurender, which runs a highly tweaked version of Linux. As a general guide, a DAC which works with a Mac will work with an Aurender. However, it appears that your Esoteric requires a driver even for a Mac, so I am fairly certain it will not work with the N10.

 

I strongly recommend an audition without obligation to purchase, also with a DAC known to work well with the N10.

[jdandy]

Brian.......Much appreciated. Fortunately, not being able to use the USB output on the Aurender N10 to the K-03 is not a deal breaker. I just wanted to know whether the N10 was capable of handling external USB drivers. My intent is to make use of the N10's coaxial output to the Esoteric K-03 DAC. This will work perfectly for me. Thank you for responding to my question.

[bpw]

My intent is to make use of the N10's coaxial output to the Esoteric K-03 DAC. This will work perfectly for me. Thank you for responding to my question.

 

You are very welcome. Although I noticed a reference to a driver for the Mac on the Esoteric website, if no driver is needed on any platform for the SPDIF coax output then all could be fine. I'd check it out to be sure.

[Vincent1234]

I have A/B with and without Jitterbug per your advice in Isolation thread and still think Jitterbug sounds better?? I wonder why??

Im going to just take your advice and follow consensus and remove it (I will put it in my router per Vincent suggestions).

Now I need to buy an intona !!

So the important question I have for you is,,, how much will you charge me to build me a few of your DYI USB 5V grnd lift cables??

i would need one out of Aurender, 1 into RUR and 1 out of RUR (that sounds correct?)

PM me if you would consider making and selling me 2-3 of these, I would really like to take you up on your "experiment with these" suggestion and I have zero capability of being able to make my own to try it!!

Allen

W.r.t. using the AQ Jitterbug: if your ears tell you that the sound of your system is better with than without one, it probably is! [emoji4] Everything is system dependent, so our experiences are nothing more than ours. Just try and trust your own ears. That's the best advice I can give. [emoji6]

 

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[Platek]

I have just bought a N10 and started loading tracks from a USB drive. Although they loaded some tracks on the drive were corrupt. Is there way to delete these tracks from the N10? There doesn't seem to be any edit facility on the conductor app.

[Cycleman]

I have just bought a N10 and started loading tracks from a USB drive. Although they loaded some tracks on the drive were corrupt. Is there way to delete these tracks from the N10? There doesn't seem to be any edit facility on the conductor app.

You need a computer for deleting files.

Follow the Aurender docs to see how with either a Mac or Windows computer, how to mount the N10's internal drives on your desktop.

Then, you can simply go into the N10's drives and delete any corrupt files.

 

Do you know why the files/tracks were corrupt?

Where had they been stored and used before?

 

Dave, who also has an N10