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DIY DC power cables


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1 hour ago, JohnSwenson said:

OK, the Canare 4S6 came in yesterday. It is MUCH easier to work with than the West Penn 244, the conductors are 20AWG and much finer stranding. It is significantly more flexible as well.

 

Doing a single starquad into the screw terminal plugs is a piece of cake with this cable. I was even able to do a Y-cable with it. That was significantly harder to do, but it did work. Even the Y-cable was easier than the straight cable with the 244.

 

Now on to the sound. I was expecting that do to the thinner conductors it might not sound quite as good as the 244. Well far from it! This cable with the 4S6 sounds better than the 244. The SBT when fed power from an LPS-1 and this starquad cable is producing some of the best sounding music I have ever heard! This is mind blowing that the $200 SBT when fed good power is transformed into such an incredibly good sounding device. Note this is only when plugging the headphones directly into the SBT, the line outs don't sound any where near as good.

 

Given the above I heartily recommend the Canare 4S6 starquad cable for making DC cables. 

 

John S.

 

John,

 

Now you have us really excited! Can't wait to try it.

 

Sorry, noob DIY question - from the pictures, it looks like there are 2 red and 2 white wires? And these are what connect together?

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On 4/20/2017 at 10:32 PM, JohnSwenson said:

Here you go!

 

DIY_DC_cable.thumb.jpg.16de00b3d3aa0300201673e388d521c8.jpg

 

I just got my Canare, along with a barrel of 2.1 barrel screw connectors.

 

I thought this would be easy, but I'm already in the weeds. Can you guys help us noobs out?

  1. Is there some trick to using these terminal blocks? You just insert bare (stripped) wire and tighten, right?
  2. Assuming yes, how much approx should I strip?
  3. As per John's instructions, I'm twisting together the white and clear white wires, and the red and clear red wires.
  4. Each time I try, I either end up with too much bare copper showing outside the terminal block, to the point where I feel the two pairs will short - or, I can't get a good attachment with the screws.
  5. Do I need to buy some heatshrink cable sleeves?

I know - this is a bit embarrassing!

 

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1 hour ago, T-Bone said:

 

 

1 hour ago, Michael-Elijah Audio said:

Hi austinpop

- strip 1/4-3/8 in ( 8-10mm)

- make sure screws are backed right off - loose

-bend wires so you can insert both at the same time - should fit in right up to insulation

- hold wires in place and tighten both - some wire will be forced out during tightening

- you could use heatshrink on one pair - or a thin strip of paper or similar

-secure with 3/4in ( 19mm) Heatshrink 3:1 - if using 2:1 you will need to build up diameter of cable for a secure bond

P1010964.thumb.JPG.4835eccf29736d1517abe71ca670eb83.JPGP1010966.thumb.JPG.6322d23d71c789ff9e17c63f93203b02.JPGP1010968.thumb.JPG.9c8ef66d5659b53911b51109e2ab548d.JPGP1010970.thumb.JPG.8fb1ed397db16da5fe3ec4a9b862fa88.JPGP1010971.thumb.JPG.86264ba8adce9bb91e982c2822dcbc39.JPG

 

Thanks so much, guys!

 

I don't have any heat shrink, but will get some. The pictures are super helpful too.

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7 hours ago, mozes said:

Congrats there you go now. Officially joined the DIY gang :)

 

7 hours ago, gstew said:

+1. Way to go Rajiv!

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

You guys... :)

 

BTW - just stopped by Altex (local electronics superstore) and picked up some heat shrink tubing, and some silicone self adhesive insulation tape. @Michael-Elijah Audio recommended using a paper strip to insulate between the two pairs of cable like so:

P1010970.JPG

 

But I found it real unwieldy to keep the paper rolled up without some kind of adhesive. So would silicone self adhesive insulation tape be OK?

 

IMG_0477.thumb.JPG.52ebf8352d6e5b3afaa7d92790c49d9d.JPG

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5 minutes ago, Middy said:

 

Cellotape would be fine... electrical insulation works great. You can fold the first inch in half like the paper to slip it in between easy and then wrap around the rest... Shrink sleeve if you still want too..

I just dont want to create a monster........

 

Late nights pooring over Ebay looking at strange pieces of plastic and getting small chinese packages and hiding them in a draw in the garage from the wife.

Always having 7 projects started while still looking for more....... Then still buying a ready made one anyway....

 

Buying tools most people dont know the name for and only using it once...

 

Be afraid Austinpop be very afraid..?

 

 

 

Thanks, but I managed to resist buying a soldering iron, a heat gun, and falling down the slippery slope!

 

I figured I'd try a hair dryer with the shrink sleeve. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...
6 hours ago, R1200CL said:

 

He is actually waiting your order now this very minute ?

(No joke)

 

Not so fast! I need to determine if my single LPS-1 driving my switch (sCLK-EX mod) and sMS-200 (sCLK-EX mod) through a Y-cable is significantly improved by separate LPS-1s. In that case, I'll save the ~$40 and apply that to a second LPS-1.

 

Even I can build a straight 4S6 cable now, thanks to this thread!

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2 minutes ago, Cornan said:

 

I will report back with some close-up pictures when they arrive (was already sent out today). Agree that it looks like they have gold plated copper blades similar to the tool-free clip-on RJ45 plugs.

 

Looking forward to your report!

 

Ghent's Y-cable is north of $60, which is a bit much IMO. I would love to find a DIY option that doesn't require soldering.

 

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8 hours ago, Narcissus said:

@R1200CL Pardon me, but I'll jump straight to the point :) So is it safe to conclude that powering An IR and a SMS 200 via the LPS-1 will not result in any kind of degradation of the SQ as opposed to both the units being powered discretely via LPS 1? 

 

I wouldn't advise powering an sMS-200 and an IR with the same LPS-1. For an explanation, read here:

https://www.computeraudiophile.com/forums/topic/31877-iso-regen-listening-impressions-kicked-off-with-some-measurements/?do=findComment&comment=670153

 

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