My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC

[mivarpet]

How it was? Well...

check first 25 sec :)

To come to the right conclusion, you need to have two devices - with and without mod.

Unfortunately I have only one. It is definitely not worse. Plus satisfaction with modding process itself.

 

Classic response :-) Thanks!

[granosalis]

@paulinus

Can I use UKZ1E471MHM Capacitor electrolytic THT 470uF 25V Ø16x25mm to update the 5 capacitors in the main board?

Where are you from?

 

Regards,

Giuseppe

[paulinus]

@paulinus

Can I use UKZ1E471MHM Capacitor electrolytic THT 470uF 25V Ø16x25mm to update the 5 capacitors in the main board?

Where are you from?

 

Regards,

Giuseppe

 

Hi Giuseppe!

I do not recommend you to use mentioned capacitor type, because of pin diameter (0.8mm) and space between them (7.5mm).

No-name (original) capacitors has 0.5-0.6mm pins (as far as I remember hole size is equal) and ~4mm space between pins.

 

I'm from ̶M̶o̶r̶d̶o̶r̶ Moscow, Russia

 

Kind regards,

Paul

[granosalis]

Too bad, I was impatient and I have already ordered them. If I'm not wrong they are top of the line Nichicon. Any hint on how to mount them? Even if I can’t insert the pin in the hole, the contact with the board should be ok, maybe a bit more effort for soldering. What do you think?

 

Regards,

Giuseppe

[paulinus]

What do you think?

- install them horizontally (and probably fix it with glue/double sided adhesive tape) and solder;

- or use sandpaper to decrease wire diameter.

[chauphuong]

I tried using a 5v -cut off usb cable to connect pc with SU-1 but it did not work. So it seems that Su-1 needs 5v power to, at least, have handshake with pc. After the handshake, maybe removing 5v power would do sone benefit. I just don't have a twin headed usb cable to test this idea. Anyone here having a twin headed cable please test and report back. Thanks a lot.

[hurka]

I tried using a 5v -cut off usb cable to connect pc with SU-1 but it did not work. So it seems that Su-1 needs 5v power to, at least, have handshake with pc. After the handshake, maybe removing 5v power would do sone benefit. I just don't have a twin headed usb cable to test this idea. Anyone here having a twin headed cable please test and report back. Thanks a lot.

 

usb 5v use x mos chip,clean separate power big jump.cut only 5v+

[tboooe]

I tried using a 5v -cut off usb cable to connect pc with SU-1 but it did not work. So it seems that Su-1 needs 5v power to, at least, have handshake with pc. After the handshake, maybe removing 5v power would do sone benefit. I just don't have a twin headed usb cable to test this idea. Anyone here having a twin headed cable please test and report back. Thanks a lot.

 

I tried this and it won't work. SU-1 always needs 5v. I am supplying separate 5v via my linear power supply.

[ElviaCaprice]

SU-1 always needs 5v.

 

That's not good a good option. But if you got an extra Regen you could feed it direct clean LPS-1. Or feed that 5VBus at the SU1. I think the SU1 needs to be redesigned for all power from the LPS-1. Then it could be an interesting solution for USB streaming.

[tboooe]

That's not good a good option. But if you got an extra Regen you could feed it direct clean LPS-1. Or feed that 5VBus at the SU1. I think the SU1 needs to be redesigned for all power from the LPS-1. Then it could be a good solution.

 

Yes I intend to use an LPS-1 to power the SU-1 and provide the 5v bus.

[ElviaCaprice]

Yes I intend to use an LPS-1 to power the SU-1 and provide the 5v bus.

Look forward to your findings.

[pgbcincy]

Tim and I will be speaking on Sunday about this and other things.

 

Alex and/or Tim, any follow up on the Singxer SU-1/ LPS-1 kit... Will it work at 7v, gonna happen, timing?

 

Thanks!

Paul

[limniscate]

Alex and/or Tim, any follow up on the Singxer SU-1/ LPS-1 kit... Will it work at 7v, gonna happen, timing?

 

Thanks!

Paul

 

I'd love to know the answer to this since I have a SU-1 and LPS-1 as well.

[chauphuong]

I diy a silver usb cable. It works flawlessly without SU1. But when SU1 is installed in the chain, it doesn't work. This time around I make a two headed usb cable, and again it fails with Su1. Shame.

[hurka]

usb A1:data,data,ground

A2:v+ ,ground

B:data, data, v+,ground

[classfolkphile]

I diy a silver usb cable. It works flawlessly without SU1. But when SU1 is installed in the chain, it doesn't work. This time around I make a two headed usb cable, and again it fails with Su1. Shame.

 

According to Dave Elledge (PI Audio), the connectors on the stock USB cable that comes with the SU-1 are not IEEE compliant. Therefore apparently, the USB input on the SU-1 is sensitive to the connector used. I had a problem with one PI Audio cable until Dave changed the connectors.

[T-Bone]

I just took delivery of my SU-1 and I'm going a basic function check before moving on to critical listening.

The first thing I noticed was an audible "click" or "pop" when starting/stopping DSD playback.

 

Anyone else notice this behavior?

[tboooe]

I just took delivery of my SU-1 and I'm going a basic function check before moving on to critical listening.

The first thing I noticed was an audible "click" or "pop" when starting/stopping DSD playback.

 

Anyone else notice this behavior?

 

Check out the thread on the Holo Spring DAC, page 11. There is a lot of talk about pop playing DSD, though this issue seems to be mainly related to playback via Linux.

[R1200CL]

 

Current-wise the LPS-1 would likely handle them both just fine. But the SU-1 takes 5V, and while I have gotten my microRendu to run on 5V, John explained some technical reasons (aside from 5VBUS reg not having enough drop) why 6V or greater is really best for the mR.

 

Tim is probably going to be sending me an SU-1, and we'll check out its main board regulator range to see if it would mind the LPS-1 set at 7V. If that's the case then I'll test running the SU-1 and my microRendu off one UltraCap LPS-1.

 

Looking at the SU-1 case--though not yet having one here to measure space where the PS sits--it is obvious that a mod-kit for a different PS could either be for an internal or external location. Really the kit just needs to be a metal plate to cover the removed IEC inlet module (with screw holes to match), plus a DC jack mounted in the same plate.

 

If the PS is to be external, then just a wire pair soldered to the jack and running to the 2-pin header on the board is all that would be needed.

If an LPS-1 board was to mount inside (though I'm not sold on that for a few reasons--and its PCB might be too big anyway) then the back panel DC jack would be for our "energizing"/charging supply and inside it would run to the input of the LPS-1 board--with another cable running from its output jack to the SU-1's PCB.

 

So now you know all my preliminary thoughts on the topic. Tim and I will be speaking on Sunday about this and other things.

 

Goodnight,

--Alex C.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile

 

Superdad

 

I'm very interested in the SU-1 powered by John's technology (Already have the F1).

 

Can you tell us how things seems to develop ?

 

Or maybe John will develop an Ethernet to SPDIF (AES/EBU) converter ?

[jkenton]

Alex,

Yes, those of us with SU-1 would love to power with our JS-2 and/or LPS-1 !

[tboooe]

Superdad

 

I'm very interested in the SU-1 powered by John's technology (Already have the F1).

 

Can you tell us how things seems to develop ?

 

Or maybe John will develop an Ethernet to SPDIF (AES/EBU) converter ?

 

Alex,

Yes, those of us with SU-1 would love to power with our JS-2 and/or LPS-1 !

 

Hi guys. Not the esteemed @Superdad but I am going to be using an LPS-1 to power my SU-1 and supply clean 5V usb to it from my PC. It took me a while to source the correct internal connector for the SU-1 but I finally did receive them. I will placing an order for an LPS-1 in a few weeks. I will keep everyone posted.

[jkenton]

Hi guys. Not the esteemed @Superdad but I am going to be using an LPS-1 to power my SU-1 and supply clean 5V usb to it from my PC. It took me a while to source the correct internal connector for the SU-1 but I finally did receive them. I will placing an order for an LPS-1 in a few weeks. I will keep everyone posted.

Can you please provide link for source of the correct internal connector?

[tboooe]

Can you please provide link for source of the correct internal connector?

 

Sure!

 

Here is what I bought:

 

10sets VH3.96 2Pin Connector Kit pitch Straight Pin Header+Terminal+Housing | eBay

 

The connector is VH3.96 2Pin.

[Superdad]

Superdad

I'm very interested in the SU-1 powered by John's technology (Already have the F1).

Can you tell us how things seems to develop ?

 

Hi Gents:

 

Just a quick update. Tim Connor (Kitsune) and I finally connected on the phone this past week (when I noticed he ordered a second UltraCap LPS-1).

We agreed to trade an SU-1 for the cost of the LPS-1 he ordered. So I will have one to play with myself (should be a very nice upgrade for the HOLO Spring Level 3 I bought in December--mainly because the I2S override the Spring's cheap audio clocks and use the nice Crystek 575s of the SU-1).

 

But as far as UpTone offering a kit to modify the SU-1 for external DC connection: I am reluctant because we are really busy with other things. But I will either do it or put Tim in touch with a CNC house and anodizer for the simple IEC inlet cover plate with hole.

 

Because as is apparent to all, the actual mod itself is super simple. If we were to offer a kit, the bill of materials would be as follows:

 

1) Machined or stamped aluminum plate, black anodized; with 2 screw holes matching the stock IEC inlet's mounting holes, and one hole in the center for a DC jack; Nuts and bolts to attach the plate to the back panel after the AC inlet module is removed.

 

2) 5.5mm x 2.1mm panel mount Switchcraft or CUI DC barrel jack.

 

3) A pre-terminated, twisted-pair of wires with the 3.96mm pitch terminals and housing; here's one:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA27C4HH7046 , though I don't know the wire gauge--would like it to be at least 18awg, preferably 16awg. (I own the specialized, expensive crimp tool for those terminals, but it is such a pain to do a lot of those by hand--and big wire makes it even harder.)

 

So as you can see, it would be a silly-simple kit. I don't know how many would sell and I'd be embarrassed to charge much for it.

 

Thinking more about the back panel fill plate for the IEC module (truly the only custom part), it would be cleaner looking to mount it on the inside (as opposed to the thick plate that other firm mounts to the outside). In which case anyone could take some scrap aluminum (or even plastic or an old CD!), a hacksaw, and a drill. And in 15 minutes have a lovely, sturdy plate with 3 holes. Order the above-linked pre terminated cable and a jack like this: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/mpd-memory-protection-devices/EJ501A/EJ501A-ND/2439531

Warm up a soldering iron and be done in less than 1/2 hour. Just be sure to triple-check the polarity of the wire pair! I'd use a meter on the old supply to be sure the red wire is positive; and also on the new wire harness.

 

Have fun!

 

--Alex C.

[R1200CL]

I guess it's to early to tell if a LPS-1 will fit inside the SU-1 ?