Building a DIY Music Server

[Argon]

NAA endpoint coming together..  

SuperMicro X12-STN fanless industrial SBC (Core-i5) running HQPlayer embedded (NAA endpoint only).  The X12 takes a wide range on input voltage, 12-19, so I can comfortably use Ian Canada's Linear Pi 12V LPS.

 

Intel I-350 network card via PCI-M.2 cable

 

Ian-Canada UC-Pure 5V Super-Capacitor Power Supply for the USB card almost ready.  This will be fed from an external 19V DC power supply, there was not enough room in the Streacom FC10 case for a second toroidal transformer to for the UC-Pure, so I settled on external DC.

 

Custom IO cover inbound from sendcutsend.com that will provide mounting of the DC plug and 40mm Noctua fan cutout (not sure it will be needed but planning ahead)

 

Now to decide what USB card to use..  Being patient to see the upcoming PinkFaun Ultra-USB...

 

[MarcelNL]

Anyone with hints to use the HDPlex Xeon het pipe adapter kit on the Asus Sage MB?  It seems the MB screws are too short to reach the heat pipe adapter mounting brackets....

 

 

[Exocer]

2 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

Anyone with hints to use the HDPlex Xeon het pipe adapter kit on the Asus Sage MB?  It seems the MB screws are too short to reach the heat pipe adapter mounting brackets....

 

 

You need M4 studs. 5+ 6mm seems to work but it doesn’t screw all the way down on the middle screw. So 6 + 6mm may be better there. But don’t take my word for it, since I haven’t been able to get my dual cpu build to boot 😂. This is the most finicky motherboard I’ve ever worked with.

 

uxcell M4 Hex Brass Standoff Spacer 5mm+6mm Male-Female Threaded Pillar Screw Nut Kit for PCB Motherboard Computer Circuit Board, 20 Sets https://a.co/d/hrNcSGx

 

[MarcelNL]

thanks!  Does that mean the metal botom plate needs to go? I haven't looked closely yet but it appears the threaded part sticks out of the MB CPU backing plate...or do you screw the M4 extenders on those to extend the existing thread?

 

The MB is real sensitive for getting all CPU pins connected! I go it to work with some active fan coolers, just to be sure everything is OK, troubeshooting compounded errors/issues gets more difficult^2  

 

 

[Exocer]

3 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

 

The MB is real sensitive for getting all CPU pins connected

Agreed - I got it to boot with 1 cpu and 1 stick of ram in a slot other than the recommended A1. I actually got it to boot with both CPUs this way (swapping them into the cpu 1 slot) so I know the CPUs are good. Once I add the 2nd cpu I am no longer able to boot lol 😂. Fun times.

[SK8]

7 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

Anyone with hints to use the HDPlex Xeon het pipe adapter kit on the Asus Sage MB?  It seems the MB screws are too short to reach the heat pipe adapter mounting brackets....

 

 

You should have some screws and stubs from Larry. For some reasons I didn't use them so I bought some original rivet nuts used in LGA3647 heatsinks from Taobao:

 

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=644851547053&from=detail&spm=a212db.24065199

 

May be not easy for you guys to buy from there. The other option is get M4 rivet nuts like this from your local metal shops:

 

 

[Exocer]

10 minutes ago, SK8 said:

You should have some screws and stubs from Larry. For some reasons I didn't use them so I bought some original rivet nuts used in LGA3647 heatsinks from Taobao:

 

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=644851547053&from=detail&spm=a212db.24065199

 

May be not easy for you guys to buy from there. The other option is get M4 rivet nuts like this from your local metal shops:

 

 

Nice thanks for the rivets. 
 

The one Larry sent weren’t the correct size and I’m actually working with him to locate the proper size to report back to him.

 

I found these and ordered them in case they fit the openings of Larry’s brace:

Alphacool Eisblock XPX Pro Mounting Screws for Intel LGA 3647 https://a.co/d/a5hMgBz
 

I fear these may be too thick though.

 

Thanks for the link to the rivets! I have to try those.

 

[SK8]

2 hours ago, Exocer said:

Agreed - I got it to boot with 1 cpu and 1 stick of ram in a slot other than the recommended A1. I actually got it to boot with both CPUs this way (swapping them into the cpu 1 slot) so I know the CPUs are good. Once I add the 2nd cpu I am no longer able to boot lol 😂. Fun times.

Yes it is both challenging and frustrating to get 2 CPUs to see all 12 memory sticks, especially for the second CPU. When it is not working, have to unscrew all 4 screws, lift up the CPU a bit do all 3647 pins return to their initial positions and try again. Following the recommended sequence as detailed the Noctua 3647 heatlink installation should help:

[MarcelNL]

9 hours ago, SK8 said:

You should have some screws and stubs from Larry. For some reasons I didn't use them so I bought some original rivet nuts used in LGA3647 heatsinks from Taobao:

 

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=644851547053&from=detail&spm=a212db.24065199

 

May be not easy for you guys to buy from there. The other option is get M4 rivet nuts like this from your local metal shops:

 

 

I did get some stuff, but it looks as if I do not have anything that fits, but I'll go through it some more and otherwise visit my trusted hardwarestore where I've seen standoffs.

 

On my Aorus MB I always ditched the screws attached to the CPU backingplate and tapped the holes to M4 and then inserted M4 threaded rods....that seems impossible here.

 

Thanks for the pointers guys, and mainly for confirming I am not doing anything obvious wrong ;-)

[MarcelNL]

think I found the M4 standoffs...I only got 4 of each length, that is likely why I did not further look at them. I'll find some more and have plenty nylon washers to make it work 

[MarcelNL]

heck I may have found something better, I was able to knock the 'bolts' out of the fan cooler...still need 4 M4 standoffs 

[Exocer]

On 1/17/2024 at 5:30 PM, SK8 said:

You should have some screws and stubs from Larry. For some reasons I didn't use them so I bought some original rivet nuts used in LGA3647 heatsinks from Taobao:

 

https://m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=644851547053&from=detail&spm=a212db.24065199

 

May be not easy for you guys to buy from there. The other option is get M4 rivet nuts like this from your local metal shops:

 

 

I ordered these. Hopefully they work out.

 

On 1/17/2024 at 5:43 PM, Exocer said:

Alphacool Eisblock XPX Pro Mounting Screws for Intel LGA 3647 https://a.co/d/a5hMgBz
 

I have a bunch of these now and they simply do not work. Totally incompatible with the HDPlex heatsink arrangement.

The thumb screws and 5mm/6mm + 8mm/6mm male female hex studs work, however, it hasn’t really solved the boot issues. Will report back if I get this working. 
 

[lwr]

In my situation, boot issues with the Asus WS 631e Sage motherboard builds have most often been due to insufficient torquing down of the CPUs in their sockets.  That applies to both the passive cooling blocks from HDPLEX and from Taiko.

 

No other motherboard that I have built over the years has required so much torque.   I bought a calibrated torque screwdriver and when I tightened down the CPUs to Emile’s recommended spec, it turned out that the stainless spring steel tensioning strips in the case of both the HDPLEX and the Taiko passive cooling blocks, were completely bottomed out.

 

Of course YMMV.

[Exocer]

3 minutes ago, lwr said:

In my situation, boot issues with the Asus WS 631e Sage motherboard builds have most often been due to insufficient torquing down of the CPUs in their sockets.  That applies to both the passive cooling blocks from HDPLEX and from Taiko.

 

No other motherboard that I have built over the years has required so much torque.   I bought a calibrated torque screwdriver and when I tightened down the CPUs to Emile’s recommended spec, it turned out that the stainless spring steel tensioning strips in the case of both the HDPLEX and the Taiko passive cooling blocks, were completely bottomed out.

 

Of course YMMV.

Thanks for this! I’ll have to try this approach. Fingers crossed I don’t break anything in the process.

[abase]

I`m late to the party ;-) – thank`s to everybody for the information in this thread. I`m on a intel nuc (see signature) and would like to build a DIY server for upsampling HQplayer.
I think in the first step I will build the Server and in the second step theULPS.
I plan a Motherboard with the I9 (gen 14)
I think passive cooling is not in option for the task, my goal is 1024 DSD with ADSM7EC-Super, Filter Close Form M16.
My intel NUC is currently able to do that with DSD 256.
Any suggestion for a good Motherboard?
With SQ gain is to expect, if I build the Server with ULPS, Taiko ATX and a high end network card.
In the first step the Holo audio red will be the streamer…
Thanks for your suggestions and advises

[Exocer]

22 hours ago, lwr said:

In my situation, boot issues with the Asus WS 631e Sage motherboard builds have most often been due to insufficient torquing down of the CPUs in their sockets.  That applies to both the passive cooling blocks from HDPLEX and from Taiko.

 

No other motherboard that I have built over the years has required so much torque.   I bought a calibrated torque screwdriver and when I tightened down the CPUs to Emile’s recommended spec, it turned out that the stainless spring steel tensioning strips in the case of both the HDPLEX and the Taiko passive cooling blocks, were completely bottomed out.

 

Of course YMMV.

Ok this worked for me. THANK YOU!

[lwr]

It is good to be able to suggest something that you could use.  I can’t tell you how many times I have benefitted from your posted comments and progress reports.  Keep them coming!

[Exocer]

10 minutes ago, lwr said:

It is good to be able to suggest something that you could use.  I can’t tell you how many times I have benefitted from your posted comments and progress reports.  Keep them coming!

I most definitely will! Also, I have benefited a ton from your comments as well. Thanks for your help.

 

The rig will start with Euphony OS but I have another Intel 900P I will use for Windows.

[Exocer]

Preliminary tests are good! 1 day in and the system completely transformed for the better. I am impressed with the SQ. Initially, the system felt a bit restricted. With the SOTM board, it took about 7 days or so for it to really blow me away SQ wise. Will report back in a week or so. 

 

Worth noting:

1. I only have 1 EPS cable installed right now.

2. I am using a Neotech ATX cable instead of my SG individual wires approach. (thanks for this one @BCRich)

3. I am using a 900P instead of femto nvme

4. Somehow my non-reclocked Startech nic doesnt work on the dual xeon build, so I am using onboard ethernet and a basic intel i350 nic.

5. I am starting with only 4 sticks of ram. 8 more to go.

 

Next will be to migrate to stripped down Windows 10 E maybe?

 

Cheers,

-Rob

 

 

 

[Exocer]

On 1/17/2024 at 12:23 PM, MarcelNL said:

thanks!  Does that mean the metal botom plate needs to go? I haven't looked closely yet but it appears the threaded part sticks out of the MB CPU backing plate...or do you screw the M4 extenders on those to extend the existing thread?

Sorry I missed this - the m4 studs screw directly to the existing bracket. Larry sends thumb screws. The thumb screws go on top of the hex studs.

 

Here is an example of a hex stud Larry sent me that was WAY too long, a 10mm+6mm male female hex stud:

 

6mm+6mm sits right below the brace. Put one on each side and tighten all the way down. You won’t break the motherboard and you’ll make perfect contact on the cpu pins (ymmv).

[seeteeyou]

2 hours ago, Exocer said:

Next will be to migrate to stripped down Windows 10 E maybe?

 

While Win11PE still remained the most "striking" flavor so far, please feel free to check them out as well

 

Scripts to build a trimmed-down Windows 11 image.
https://github.com/ntdevlabs/tiny11builder

 

The official and complete tiny10 and tiny11 list - NTDEV

https://ntdev.blog/2024/01/08/the-complete-tiny10-and-tiny11-list/

 

---

 

Password:

 

Slimdown2023

https://forums.mydigitallife.net/threads/slimdown10-–-turn-windows-10-22h2-or-ltsc-2021-into-classic-legacy-windows.86552/page-53#post-1819171

https://workupload.com/file/BmVSgsartrF

https://pastes.io/8noswltndv

 

---

 

Password:

 

Slimdown2024

https://forums.mydigitallife.net/threads/slimdown10-–-turn-windows-10-22h2-or-ltsc-2021-into-classic-legacy-windows.86552/page-55#post-1821061

Quote

Replace Slimdown10 with this

https://www.upload.ee/files/16149790/Slimdown11.rar.html

 

---

 

https://forums.mydigitallife.net/threads/slimdown10-–-turn-windows-10-22h2-or-ltsc-2021-into-classic-legacy-windows.86552/page-55#post-1821196

Quote

Tried this script Slimdown11.cmd on Windows 11 IoT Enterprise [22631.3007] ru-RU, everything worked fine and without errors - thanks!

 

https://files.rg-adguard.net/file/97a5761d-6736-b102-af2b-488197780556

https://sha1.rg-adguard.net/search.php?sha1=6e0d66301129e8fe06d1a301beffbeb8eabcded2&lang=en-us

https://msdn.rg-adguard.net/public.php?seach=5d9b86ad467bc89f488d1651a6c5ad3656a7ea923f9f914510657a24c501bb86#72506

File: en-us_windows_11_iot_enterprise_version_23h2_x64_dvd_fb37549c.iso
SHA256: 5d9b86ad467bc89f488d1651a6c5ad3656a7ea923f9f914510657a24c501bb86
Size: 5.819 GB (6248140800 bytes)

https://massgrave.dev/windows_11_links.html#Windows_11_IoT_Enterprise_23H2

https://drive.massgrave.dev/en-us_windows_11_iot_enterprise_version_23h2_x64_dvd_fb37549c.iso

[MarcelNL]

2 hours ago, Exocer said:

Sorry I missed this - the m4 studs screw directly to the existing bracket. Larry sends thumb screws. The thumb screws go on top of the hex studs.

 

Here is an example of a hex stud Larry sent me that was WAY too long, a 10mm+6mm male female hex stud:

 

6mm+6mm sits right below the brace. Put one on each side and tighten all the way down. You won’t break the motherboard and you’ll make perfect contact on the cpu pins (ymmv).

thanks mate, I figured it out and ordered (and received) the extension studs.

[MarcelNL]

11 hours ago, Exocer said:

Sorry I missed this - the m4 studs screw directly to the existing bracket. Larry sends thumb screws. The thumb screws go on top of the hex studs.

 

Here is an example of a hex stud Larry sent me that was WAY too long, a 10mm+6mm male female hex stud:

 

6mm+6mm sits right below the brace. Put one on each side and tighten all the way down. You won’t break the motherboard and you’ll make perfect contact on the cpu pins (ymmv).

apparently not all M4 studs are made equal, th eones I ordered do not fit through the holes in the brackets...back to the drawing board....

 

Thinking about simply filing them down to fit through, the bracket is probably not large enough to drill larger holes and maintain strength.

[Exocer]

1 hour ago, MarcelNL said:

apparently not all M4 studs are made equal, th eones I ordered do not fit through the holes in the brackets...back to the drawing board....

 

Thinking about simply filing them down to fit through, the bracket is probably not large enough to drill larger holes and maintain strength.

I can ship you 4 of my spares. uxcell M4 Hex Brass Standoff Spacer 6mm+6mm Male-Female Threaded Pillar Screw Nut Kit for PCB Motherboard Computer Circuit Board, 20 Sets https://a.co/d/2poc7jw
 

is what you need, assuming you already have 5mm hex stud for the 4 corner positions.

[MarcelNL]

37 minutes ago, Exocer said:

I can ship you 4 of my spares. uxcell M4 Hex Brass Standoff Spacer 6mm+6mm Male-Female Threaded Pillar Screw Nut Kit for PCB Motherboard Computer Circuit Board, 20 Sets https://a.co/d/2poc7jw
 

is what you need, assuming you already have 5mm hex stud for the 4 corner positions.

thanks a lot for the very kind offer, I'll be OK after grinding down the nut part of the stud ...it's just a mm or so larger than the 4 I got from Larry with the kit, the Dremel should make short work of that.

 

see below