Building a DIY Music Server

[MarcelNL]

6 hours ago, BOBO said:

no no no. when you flash the modified bios, it will replace the default one, so even if you do a CMOS reset, the settings that you changed will remain.

I must be missing something here, patience with me please ;-)

 

I always tought it's a BIOS backup battery, but upon some reading it mostly keeps the clock ....sweet! I imagine that clock time is not needed so NO battery is doable.

great finding ! When the time comes I'll tinker with it too!

 

 

[MarcelNL]

7 hours ago, SK8 said:

I believe you can put the C621e in their H5 case but HDPlex won't supply the copper heatpipes to connnect the second CPU to the left hand side heatsink. Again, please double check with Larry.

Thanks for the heads up yet I won't need to, I've got a supply of heatpipes and will not use the HDPlex case (or any metal case)

[MarcelNL]

7 hours ago, SK8 said:

I used the Mundorf SWG115 wire which is about the size of AWG 14. It is so stiff making it very hard to have the Molex pins securely locked in the housing, especially for the ATX 24 connectors. At the end, I ordered 2 of the following MB ATX header and soldered the wires directly to both connectors for the ATX 24 cable.

 

 

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-24-7243?qs=mjekseImwbYPBDyRu413TQ%3D%3D

 

 

NIce find, the ATX is a PITA....I'm indeed using 14AWG and that is what killed the previous MB...(well actually that and the fact I was too lazy to disconnect the other side of the ATX cable also because it's so stiff)

 

Not sure if the soldering holds well...the connectors look a tad small to me to make a good connection with 14AWG, you need a mechanically sound connection before applying solder, most folks see soldering as 'conductive glue' well....if folks entertain the thought that a BIOS battery can be heard they ought to listen to a solder joint....

 

I'd really like a screw type connector....but with 24 pins in that small of a space it ain't going to happen.

Perhaps we just need to epoxy the back side to keep the pins in place....now that might work...

[Nenon]

13 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

guess I'm right 

 

https://www.dustinhome.nl/product/5011167537/asmb9-ikvm-ipmi-management-adapter?ssel=false

That was always installed on the Asus SAGE motherboards I have bought. Taiko removes it on the Extreme. 

 

11 hours ago, SK8 said:

I used the Mundorf SWG115 wire which is about the size of AWG 14. It is so stiff making it very hard to have the Molex pins securely locked in the housing, especially for the ATX 24 connectors. At the end, I ordered 2 of the following MB ATX header and soldered the wires directly to both connectors for the ATX 24 cable.

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-24-7243?qs=mjekseImwbYPBDyRu413TQ%3D%3D

 

That would work. If I was still doing this, I would probably go a step further and make a custom PCB for this molex header with separate wirepads for each wire (small PCB traces, double copper, etc.). It's a real pain to do molex connectors with solid wire. In fact, those connectors are designed to work with multi strand wire. I never even tried to do a 24-pin cable with the 15.5 AWG Mundorf wire. It was painful enough to make it with the 18 AWG Mundorf wire :) 

[auricgoldfinger]

If anyone is looking for some good cables, see my listings here:

 

 

 

[MarcelNL]

55 minutes ago, Nenon said:

That was always installed on the Asus SAGE motherboards I have bought. Taiko removes it on the Extreme. 

 

 

they sell two versions,  the regular one and the BMC version, might be differering per country.

In the end it is no big deal but I hope to listen to the beast prior to getting the last parts together for passive cooling!

Those fans are LOUD

[AngeloVRA]

14 hours ago, SK8 said:

I used the Mundorf SWG115 wire which is about the size of AWG 14. It is so stiff making it very hard to have the Molex pins securely locked in the housing, especially for the ATX 24 connectors. At the end, I ordered 2 of the following MB ATX header and soldered the wires directly to both connectors for the ATX 24 cable.

 

 

 

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/15-24-7243?qs=mjekseImwbYPBDyRu413TQ%3D%3D

 

 

hi @SK8

 

Yes, building an ATX cable using Mundorf SG115 cable is indeed challenging.

This might help:

 

1, Use the AWG16 version of the Molex crimp terminal (part number 45750-3211). Don't use the AWG18 version. Those have crimp tabs that are to short to securely crimp over SG115.

 

The second set of crimp tabs are intended to crimp over the insulation so they are longer, Too long to securely crimp over AWG16 bare wire so you have to cut off a bit off the top. If you don't cut a bit off, they will just weakly wrap around the SG115 wire.

Then crimp both pairs of  crimp tabs onto bare wire SG115 for a more secure connection.

 

 

 

 

 

2. Make sure the tabs correctly curve onto the top and "bites" into the top of the bare wire and doesn't simply wrap around it. Finish off with a touch of solder on the 2nd tab.

 

 

 

 

Make sure to insert the terminals into the connector body in the correct orientation (guide tabs slots into connector body) so it locks in place properly

 

 

 

Because the finished cable will be super stiff, it helps to pre-form the wires as you assemble it.

 

 

 

 

[MarcelNL]

what i found to also help is to ensure the wings that keep the molex pin inside the connector body are not squashed when crimping.

 

O , and Angelo, why not turn the ATX module 180 so your cabling is 10 cm shorter?

[MarcelNL]

the first sound is coming through the system, incredibly lean W10 using foobar (for lack of getting anything else to work).....two fans at 4500rpm blazing but what I hear makes it clear there is no going back....wow.

 

The clarity of the midrange, the weight, authority, liquidity, my current server is good but this is on an SMPS, no OS optimalization whatsoever, no CPU assignements made and network and screen attached (not headless).

 

WOW

 

 

 

[AngeloVRA]

5 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

what i found to also help is to ensure the wings that keep the molex pin inside the connector body are not squashed when crimping.

 

O , and Angelo, why not turn the ATX module 180 so your cabling is 10 cm shorter?

Hi @MarcelNL

 

It won’t be much shorter since the wires would go diagonally across and cross over each other. It would then look like this pic

[SK8]

9 hours ago, AngeloVRA said:

 

hi @SK8

 

Yes, building an ATX cable using Mundorf SG115 cable is indeed challenging.

This might help:

 

1, Use the AWG16 version of the Molex crimp terminal (part number 45750-3211). Don't use the AWG18 version. Those have crimp tabs that are to short to securely crimp over SG115.

 

The second set of crimp tabs are intended to crimp over the insulation so they are longer, Too long to securely crimp over AWG16 bare wire so you have to cut off a bit off the top. If you don't cut a bit off, they will just weakly wrap around the SG115 wire.

Then crimp both pairs of  crimp tabs onto bare wire SG115 for a more secure connection.

 

 

 

 

 

2. Make sure the tabs correctly curve onto the top and "bites" into the top of the bare wire and doesn't simply wrap around it. Finish off with a touch of solder on the 2nd tab.

 

 

 

 

Make sure to insert the terminals into the connector body in the correct orientation (guide tabs slots into connector body) so it locks in place properly

 

 

 

Because the finished cable will be super stiff, it helps to pre-form the wires as you assemble it.

 

 

 

 

Thanks! Enjoyed and learned a lot from your previous posts in this thread.

[NewOldman]

10 hours ago, MarcelNL said:

the first sound is coming through the system, incredibly lean W10 using foobar (for lack of getting anything else to work).....two fans at 4500rpm blazing but what I hear makes it clear there is no going back....wow.

 

The clarity of the midrange, the weight, authority, liquidity, my current server is good but this is on an SMPS, no OS optimalization whatsoever, no CPU assignements made and network and screen attached (not headless).

 

WOW

 

 

 

B12 | Dynatron

[MarcelNL]

1 hour ago, NewOldman said:

B12 | Dynatron

Would have been much preferred yet those were not in stock anywhere near me, and I think those rely on cold server rooms with lots of forces air flow don't they?

[drjimwillie]

@AngeloVRA

what tool do you use to crimp the Molex connector’s, please?

 

Do you have a different picture of the terminal going into the connector body, so that you can see the tab orientation to the connector? I see in the picture that the connector hole has a flat bottom and an arched top. Does the tab point towards the arched top?

 

thank you

[drjimwillie]

On 8/6/2023 at 6:49 PM, MarcelNL said:

meanwhile I found someone who'll probably delid the Xeons for me

(no interest in finding out how that works in detail)

why not go balls to the wall when doing stuff ;-)

Hi Marce

I have a couple more questions about delidding, please?

 

I hope it is not inappropriate for me to ask this question here, but how much are you paying to have somebody delid one of your CPUs. I can send you a PM if you think it is more appropriate. 
 

Also, what type of guarantees do you get that your CPUs will not be harmed in the process?

 

Am I correct in assuming that this will void the warranty on the CPU?

 

The numbers for reducing the operating temperature of the CPU looked very promising. However, personally, I worry about the risk. This CPU cost about $500 each. 
 

The CPU are the last components that I need to purchase for my build. I am waiting until I have everything else ready, just in case there is an issue with the CPU and I need to return it.

 

are a lot of enthusiast doing this?

I look forward to your assessment. 
 

[AngeloVRA]

1 hour ago, drjimwillie said:

@AngeloVRA

what tool do you use to crimp the Molex connector’s, please?

 

Do you have a different picture of the terminal going into the connector body, so that you can see the tab orientation to the connector? I see in the picture that the connector hole has a flat bottom and an arched top. Does the tab point towards the arched top?

 

thank you

Hi @drjimwillie

 

here is the Molex tool that I use to crimp terminals 

 

 

this closeup will show you how you should orient the terminal when crimping. You can see that the curve of the tool at the top will curve the tabs inwards so it bites into the wire. 

 

if you look closely inside the Molex connector body with a loupe or magnifying lens (or ur phone camera) , you will see the two grooves into which the guide tabs of the crimped terminals should slot into.  They are usually on the side of the connector body that has the lock tab

 

Hopefully that helps answer your query.

 

 

[MarcelNL]

11 hours ago, drjimwillie said:

Hi Marce

I have a couple more questions about delidding, please?

 

I hope it is not inappropriate for me to ask this question here, but how much are you paying to have somebody delid one of your CPUs. I can send you a PM if you think it is more appropriate. 
 

Also, what type of guarantees do you get that your CPUs will not be harmed in the process?

 

Am I correct in assuming that this will void the warranty on the CPU?

 

The numbers for reducing the operating temperature of the CPU looked very promising. However, personally, I worry about the risk. This CPU cost about $500 each. 
 

The CPU are the last components that I need to purchase for my build. I am waiting until I have everything else ready, just in case there is an issue with the CPU and I need to return it.

 

are a lot of enthusiast doing this?

I look forward to your assessment. 
 

I am not too worried about the risk of delidding, m CPUs were used ones ...Xeon CPUs are near indestructable ad can be bought at around 50% of the street price for new.

The price of delidding is around 30E a piece, and if Shit happens it's just that.

 

Are many folks doing this....I don not know...yet when it is a viable option for hard cre gamers why not try it, as core temp is an important factor for sound quality.

[SK8]

I think I will buy 2 used Xeon Gold 6148 to try delidding later. I remember @littlej0e mentioned that higher cores count resulting in better audio performance in his tests. These Xeons were dismantled from retired servers so they are really cheap, about US$50 per chip. 

 

For those going to do delidding, you may consider not putting back the IHS and install a new protector to enable the direct contact between the silicon and the copper heatsink:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004069216700.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.5b6b35e7kyVNUE&algo_pvid=fb774ffb-b930-4cc1-bed9-c682c99c72c2&algo_exp_id=fb774ffb-b930-4cc1-bed9-c682c99c72c2-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis!HKD!358.86!340.92!!!329.99!!%402101fd4b16916359329852605e6cdb!12000029558856272!sea!HK!0!A&curPageLogUid=wvnITT8qXina

 

I will buy one and check it out too.

 

[littlej0e]

1 minute ago, SK8 said:

I think I will buy 2 used Xeon Gold 6148 to try delidding later. I remember @littlej0e mentioned that higher cores count resulting in better audio performance in his tests. These Xeons were dismantled from retired servers so they are really cheap, about US$50 per chip. 

 

Yes, sir...given the dirt cheap price, I think you are making a fine choice with Gold 6148s! I've been running those for a while along with Platinum 8164s. I refrained from posting further details here as to not derail the thread and/or rock the boat:-) If you are starting from a base dual 4210 system, please consider: 

• Power. Higher core CPUs can draw considerably more power, especially at startup. You will need a power supply that can efficiently handle 200W to 260W at startup and 110W to 180W constant depending on PCIE load and other options. I believe the max recommended CPU voltage per-socket on the Sage board is 205W. But given the high cost of these components, I personally don't want to get anywhere close to that unless there is a safe and reliable sonic benefit of doing so. 
• Cooling. The passive CPU cooling system included with the Taiko DIY chassis simply couldn't handle the heat from the higher core CPUs (especially under Windows tweaked with selective real-time kernel processing). I ended up trying all sorts of crazy alternatives; suspended fan arrays, heat absorbing gel pads, etc. until I arrived on a custom water-cooling solution. It works beautifully and offers more precise CPU temperature control, but a well-engineered passive cooling system is still definitely the way to go.
• Economics. 

In theory, people could run a single 6148 without taxing their existing power supply designed for 4210s. I personally haven't tried running/optimizing a single CPU on this board. Perhaps it would offer nothing, but trying is half the fun!

 

Hope they work in your server with your ears in your system. 

[basillus]

7 hours ago, SK8 said:

I think I will buy 2 used Xeon Gold 6148 to try delidding later. I remember @littlej0e mentioned that higher cores count resulting in better audio performance in his tests. These Xeons were dismantled from retired servers so they are really cheap, about US$50 per chip. 

 

For those going to do delidding, you may consider not putting back the IHS and install a new protector to enable the direct contact between the silicon and the copper heatsink:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004069216700.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.5.5b6b35e7kyVNUE&algo_pvid=fb774ffb-b930-4cc1-bed9-c682c99c72c2&algo_exp_id=fb774ffb-b930-4cc1-bed9-c682c99c72c2-2&pdp_npi=4%40dis!HKD!358.86!340.92!!!329.99!!%402101fd4b16916359329852605e6cdb!12000029558856272!sea!HK!0!A&curPageLogUid=wvnITT8qXina

 

I will buy one and check it out too.

 

Hi, if You want to try/use these cpues at the Asus sage ws c621e mb, why not buy the Intel Xeon silver 4114 instead? They are cheaper used, than US$50 and it was the cpu Taiko Audio used in their Extreme, before the Xeon 4210 came at the marked. 

The icemancooler cpu protector is a little bit cheaper here:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004069216700.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.708954414Bbz45&algo_pvid=d8653557-7664-4793-9ba0-320a8f244463&algo_exp_id=d8653557-7664-4793-9ba0-320a8f244463-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!53.29!50.63!!!412.49!!%402101e9d416916633545696230e400e!12000029558856272!sea!DK!718482759!&curPageLogUid=4AmK166DxBcX&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp

 

[SK8]

16 minutes ago, basillus said:

Hi, if You want to try/use these cpues at the Asus sage ws c621e mb, why not buy the Intel Xeon silver 4114 instead? They are cheaper used, than US$50 and it was the cpu Taiko Audio used in their Extreme, before the Xeon 4210 came at the marked. 

The icemancooler cpu protector is a little bit cheaper here:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004069216700.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.708954414Bbz45&algo_pvid=d8653557-7664-4793-9ba0-320a8f244463&algo_exp_id=d8653557-7664-4793-9ba0-320a8f244463-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis!EUR!53.29!50.63!!!412.49!!%402101e9d416916633545696230e400e!12000029558856272!sea!DK!718482759!&curPageLogUid=4AmK166DxBcX&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp

 

Yes used 4114 is cheaper, about $20. As I said, I want to try the higher cores count CPU than my existing 4210.

 

For the protector, I bought from Taobao at US$25. AliExpress is always dearer.

[baconbrain]

23 hours ago, littlej0e said:

 

• Cooling. The passive CPU cooling system included with the Taiko DIY chassis simply couldn't handle the heat from the higher core CPUs (especially under Windows tweaked with selective real-time kernel processing). I ended up trying all sorts of crazy alternatives; suspended fan arrays, heat absorbing gel pads, etc. until I arrived on a custom water-cooling solution. It works beautifully and offers more precise CPU temperature control, but a well-engineered passive cooling system is still definitely the way to go

 

Interesting, would you mind sharing a few details?

[littlej0e]

9 hours ago, baconbrain said:

Interesting, would you mind sharing a few details?

 

Absolutely, but keep in mind I do no recommend going this route. The water cooling system requires semi-regular maintenance and a passive cooling design is just better and safer. I'll send pictures in a couple of weeks when I return from my business trip.  

 

The problem with the vast majority of traditional all-in-one (AIO) water coolers is they are designed with the pump housing coupled directly to the CPU cooling block. This combined with active radiator fans transfers a lot of vibration to the chassis. After experimenting with some alternatives, the best solution I found was to use an external industrial-grade cooler that allowed for de-coupling of the pumps, fans and radiators from the chassis. This doesn't remove all vibration, but gets pretty darn close. The main benefits of this approach are:

• You can use any CPU you wish, up to the max voltage supported by the motherboard. I'm using two Platinum 8164 w/26C/150W each, but the Gold 6148s/20C/150W seem to be the sweet spot. 
• Offers more precise CPU temperature control. I haven't experimented with finding sonically optimal CPU temps yet, but it's on my to do list. 
• Allows for experimentation with CPU overclocking (though I discovered underclocking to the lowest achievable base clock tends to result in the best sound).
• Allows for integrated upsampling with HQPlayer. However, just because you can, doesn't mean you should! Upsampling generates a lot of noise and can substantially degrade audio performance at this level. The right way to implement upsampling in this scenario would be to use a separate upscalling machine all together (i.e. a bastardized, but much more powerful, DIY version of a Chord M-scaler).
• Allows for dual use of the server as a screaming fast PGGB 256 processing machine (hint: use separate BIOS and Process Lasso profiles for this as PGGB tends to consume all available resources during processing and will melt your server if you aren't careful!!!). 

Lastly, I must reiterate the drawbacks to water cooling are many. Go passive...it is much safer and sounds better. That said, the full inventory for my cooling system is below. These components were specifically chosen for durability and longevity: 

 

Item #	Description	Link	Qty	Unit Price		Price
1020341	Alphacool ES Orbiter 360 TS (11932)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-es-orbiter-360-ts-11932.html	1	$499.95	External cooler	$                           499.95
1022693	Alphacool Eisblock XPX Pro Aurora - Full Brass Black Digital RGB (13084)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eisblock-xpx-pro-aurora-full-brass-black-digital-rgb-13084.html	2	$135.00	CPU blocks	$                           270.00
1021503	Alphacool EPDM Tube 16/10 - Black 3m (9,84ft) Retailbox (18642)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-epdm-tube-16-10-black-3m-9-84ft-retailbox-18642.html	1	$19.70	tubing	$                             19.70
1011163	Alphacool Eiszapfen 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD G1/4 Compression Fitting - Black Sixpack (17234)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-3-8-id-x-5-8-od-g1-4-compression-fitting-black-sixpack-17234.html	2	$39.95	Compression fittings	$                             79.90
1017122	Alphacool Eiszapfen Quick Release Male Bulkhead G1/4 Inner Thread - Deep Black (17463)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-quick-release-male-bulkhead-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black-17463.html	1	$13.90	QDC w/ bulkhead	$                             13.90
1017124	Alphacool Eiszapfen Quick Release Female Bulkhead G1/4 Inner Thread - Deep Black (17459)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-quick-release-female-bulkhead-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black-17459u.html	1	$18.75	QDC w/ bulkhead	$                             18.75
1017119	Alphacool Eiszapfen Quick Release Male G1/4 Inner Thread - Deep Black (17461)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-quick-release-male-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black-17461.html	1	$15.95	QDC	$                             15.95
1017120	Alphacool Eiszapfen Quick Release Female G1/4 Inner Thread - Deep Black (17457)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-quick-release-female-g1-4-inner-thread-deep-black-17457.html	1	$18.75	QDC	$                             18.75
1022489	Alphacool Eiszapfen L-Connector Rotatable G1/4 OT to G1/4 IT - Black - Four Pack (17615)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eiszapfen-l-connector-rotatable-g1-4-ot-to-g1-4-it-black-four-pack-17615.html	1	$28.00	might want more 90s	$                             28.00
1011889	Alphacool Eisfluegel G1/4 Square Flow Meter - Acetal (17350)	https://modmymods.com/alphacool-eisfluegel-g1-4-square-flow-meter-acetal-17350.html	1	$16.75	flow indicator (optional)	$                             16.75
MOD-0275	ModMyMods ModWater PC Coolant- Clear – 1 Liter (MOD-0275)	https://modmymods.com/modmymods-modwater-pc-coolant-clear-1-liter-mod-0275.html	4	$9.97	Coolant	$                             39.88
					Subtotal	$                        1,021.53

[baconbrain]

50 minutes ago, littlej0e said:

 

Absolutely, but keep in mind I do no recommend going this route. The water cooling system requires semi-regular maintenance and a passive cooling design is just better and safer. I'll send pictures in a couple of weeks when I return from my business trip.  

 

The problem with the vast majority of traditional all-in-one (AIO) water coolers is they are designed with the pump housing coupled directly to the CPU cooling block. This combined with active radiator fans transfers a lot of vibration to the chassis. After experimenting with some alternatives, the best solution I found was to use an external industrial-grade cooler that allowed for de-coupling of the pumps, fans and radiators from the chassis. This doesn't remove all vibration, but gets pretty darn close. The main benefits of this approach are:

• You can use any CPU you wish, up to the max voltage supported by the motherboard. I'm using two Platinum 8164 w/26C/150W each, but the Gold 6148s/20C/150W seem to be the sweet spot. 
• Offers more precise CPU temperature control. I haven't experimented with finding sonically optimal CPU temps yet, but it's on my to do list. 
• Allows for experimentation with CPU overclocking (though I discovered underclocking to the lowest achievable base clock tends to result in the best sound).
• Allows for integrated upsampling with HQPlayer. However, just because you can, doesn't mean you should! Upsampling generates a lot of noise and can substantially degrade audio performance at this level. The right way to implement upsampling in this scenario would be to use a separate upscalling machine all together (i.e. a bastardized, but much more powerful, DIY version of a Chord M-scaler).
• Allows for dual use of the server as a screaming fast PGGB 256 processing machine (hint: use separate BIOS and Process Lasso profiles for this as PGGB tends to consume all available resources during processing and will melt your server if you aren't careful!!!). 

Lastly, I must reiterate the drawbacks to water cooling are many. Go passive...it is much safer and sounds better. That said, the full inventory for my cooling system is below. These components were specifically chosen for durability and longevity: 

Subtotal

1,021.53

Wow, thanks for the very detailed response!

 

How loud is the orbiter?

[littlej0e]

1 hour ago, baconbrain said:

Wow, thanks for the very detailed response!

 

How loud is the orbiter?

You are quite welcome!

 

The orbiter is very quiet. The pump and fans are barely audible unless you are overclocking, using HQPlayer, PGGB, etc. To be clear, the orbiter is way, way overkill for this use cases and that was by design. During normal operation w/undervolted CPUs, the pump and fans run at the very low end of their capability. This results in "near-passive" operation of the orbiter while minimizing vibration transfer to the server chassis as much as possible. 

 

In other words, I specifically chose to use a Porsche as a pace car traveling at 30kph and pray it doesn't blow up from underutilization - lol.  

 

For reference, I can't hear the orbiter over my air-cooled work PC during normal use. But if you are highly sensitive to noise, one of those freaks that listens to music in an anechoic chamber, or just don't want to risk hearing a single decibel...you could try replacing the stock fans with Noctuas (I think the orbiter uses "be quiet!" fans by default) or try disabling the fans all together (gven the high cooling efficiency of this loop design, very low pump utilization, and the thermal mass of the internal radiators, I suspect you could get away with disabling the fans...though I haven't tested it.).