A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming

[Jonder]

Hi Everyone 

 

I’ve been reading this thread with great interest and it has inspired me to try out network switches. I’d like to thank @Nenon for his great threads about the Buffalo BS GS2016 and all the other contributors.

I started out trying a Silent Angel Bonn N8 with an MCRU power supply. This was a noticeable improvement to both imaging and sound stage. I then borrowed a Melco S100 loan unit from my local dealer. I initially had trouble with harshness but tracked this down to the stock smps on the router. After changing this for an lps the harshness went and there was an improvement in the SQ. The Melco beat the Silent Angel hands down in every way but at four times the price!

The Melco was returned after a week and after much searching I acquired two Buffalo BS GS2016’s from Japan for £220 each. Using one stock Buffalo I couldn’t tell the difference from the Melco, using both Buffalo’s together gave a noticeable improvement to the sound stage.

I have now removed the stock power supplies. The switches were fed from a cheap, £80, Chinese lps using the supplied dc cables. This improved the sound stage yet again.

I have now embarked on replacing the crystals in the switches. The Pink Faun is very expensive so I have been searching for an alternative. I removed one of the switches to photograph the internals and at the same time changed the lps to the remaining switch for a better one. Still Chinese, but this one cost £180. The single switch with the improved lps was as good as two switches with the cheaper lps.

 I have altered the better lps so that it now has two separate GX16 outlets and at the same time altered the cable that feeds the 12v dc to the switches to Sommer Square 4-core mk2 highflex. I used the red and blue for the positive and the yellow and white for the negative. The cable is similar to a starquad in construction which John Swenson recommended.

 Initial results were disappointing! Maybe at £1.98 a meter it is too cheap although the spec of the cable is very good! Ten hours later and the sound stage has gained both height and depth and there is greater focus. Wow, what a bargain this cable is. My system has never sounded so good. Please try the Sommer cable it is superb.

Now to change the clocks.....

[Jonder]

Unsure if this has already been posted but it may be helpful.

 

 

 

 

[Jonder]

I’ve been streaming lossless from Spotify ever since I bought the Linn Klimax DS3 streamer.

[Jonder]

I had a Melco S100 on loan and I couldn’t tell the difference with the led’s on or off!

[Jonder]

I’ve replaced the smps on my Vodafone router with an £80 Chinese lps from Aliexpess. That made the same sq improvement that @Blackmorec has referred to. Age old thing, get rid of cheap smps!

[Jonder]

But, on the Buffalo and the Melco switch the led’s are not integrated with the rj45’s but on a separate board so @Neno’s theory doesn’t apply.

[Jonder]

I have now upgraded my Buffalo switch using an L C Audio XO3 clock. The initial improvement was that one upgraded switch was equal to two stock switches in series. After 48 hrs of burn in the upgraded switch is now league’s away from stock.

The separation between instruments is much much better. The sound stage has grown in height and depth. Voices and instruments are much clearer with much more texture. Music with a heavy bass is very tight with more texture.
A very worthwhile upgrade. I will be doing the same upgrade with the other switch using the other clock output. I just wonder how much better the Pink Faun clock is considering the substantial difference in cost. I doubt it is worth it!

I will post photos and a description of how to do the upgrade in another post.

[Jonder]

I’ve now managed to replace the clock on my second Buffalo BS GS2016 with the L C Audio XO3 clock with great results. I found the only way to remove the existing clock, which is only 3mm wide, is to slowly pick away at it with something sharp and pointed. The clock appears to be made of some form of ceramic. I tried swamping it with solder to soften the existing solder but that didn’t have any effect so I removed the top with pliers and then picked away. You must be VERY careful when doing this because the solder pads on the board are quite delicate and it is easy to loosen them as I found when doing the first switch.

Once you have removed the clock you will be left with four pads. I first tinned the wires of the new clock wire so that they where the correct distance apart and then hot glued the wire to the board to hold it in place while I soldered it to the pads. I then tested the switch to make sure it booted up properly before covering the connection in hot glue. This was done to give additional strength to the connection but also to insulate the wires to stop the heat sink from touching them when it was replaced. Both boards now run from one clock.

I’ve added some photos to help if you are thinking of doing this.

 

[Jonder]

Next time. I don’t think there will be a next time!

 

Both of those suggestions are great for smd’s that have legs but they don’t work when the smd is soldered straight to the board.

[Jonder]

@Superdad The Belden 1354 was supplied with the clock so I don’t know the reasoning behind it. You could always contact Anders at LC Audio for his reasoning.

 

@RickyV I noticed that the connection points were different. On the first switch that I changed the clock on I found the input by trial and error and that connection was the one that worked. By connecting to the other pad the switch failed to boot properly.

[Jonder]

I’ve used Isoacoustics Orea graphite under my two Buffalo BS GS2016 switches. Two at the back and one at the front, with one Buffalo stacked on the other so six Orea’s in total.

This has brought a noticeable improvement in separation and better definition to the sound stage. Bass has increased texture. 
Well worth the cost and I’ll certainly be buying more for my other components. Isolation that actually works without a big price tag, there’s a novelty!!