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A novel way to massively improve the SQ of computer audio streaming


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Most important: please realize this thread is about bleeding edge experimentation and discovery. No one has The Answer™. If you are not into tweaking, just know that you can have a musically satisfying system without doing any of the nutty things we do here.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/20/2022 at 6:46 PM, austinpop said:

Since I normally post system updates here, here is a link to my latest:

 

 

Austinpop!

 

Since you spend so much time on the digital end, have you ever tried the Network Acoustics ethernet filters called the ENO or MUON? They are passive filters mopping up the remaining noise coming after the switch, usually placed after the network switch and before the streamer.

 

I took your advice and put an ethernet switch into my chain and it has yielded me good results.

 

Figured I would ask you since you spend a good amount of time tuning your digital end.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/14/2020 at 9:43 AM, elan120 said:

Cables...

 

After having the EPS and ATX power supply built, I now move into cable making phase, while working on the first cable, I decided to record the sequence in more details to share here, hopefully this will help more people interested in trying out the long discussed Mundorf solid core silver JSSG360 DC cable.

 

1. Slide cotton tube over the Mundorf solid core silver hook up wire.

20200611_180506.thumb.jpg.29c41a12e9cb98725a0177b687825801.jpg

 

2. Solder wires to the connector.  In this cable, I have GX16-4 on one end and Oyaide DC-2.1G on the other end.  I started this wire from the GX16-4 side.

20200611_204529.thumb.jpg.148db99a185ee9efa16facbf4c6ed758.jpg

 

3. After the wires are soldered, slide a short heat shrink tubing over the cotten tubes to help protect the end.

20200611_205422.thumb.jpg.9fee1ca12cc902050088abc552747c5f.jpg

 

4. Reassemble the GX16-4 connector.

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5. Twist the two wires.

20200611_210426.thumb.jpg.2d27443cdc5f02e586fc7d1b1e8cd6cd.jpg20200611_210445.thumb.jpg.bf44f2f6d7788d461ec871b36bee84e5.jpg

 

6. Getting the Oyaide DC-2.1G side ready.  Slide the connector outer shell over the wires, cut two pieces of heat shrink tubing.  The smaller diameter one is to protect the positive lead after wire is soldered to the connector, and the larger diameter heat shrink tubing is to help protect the cotton tube ends.

20200611_231138.thumb.jpg.012c50d54a005d20466aa7a94ccd5ee9.jpg

 

7. Solder wires to the connector.  It is easier to solder the negative lead to the connector first, and then solder the positive lead.

20200611_232608.thumb.jpg.992a6bdca3ab22c25f784d307f5990da.jpg

 

8. Heat shrink the smaller tubing over the positive lead solder join.

20200611_232751.thumb.jpg.437e27a2d062b16a0552954334caf86e.jpg

 

9. Slide the larger heat shrink tube over the end of cotton tube.

20200611_233113.thumb.jpg.29dd065e7c1eb6ea3361b58b74148f50.jpg

 

10. Test the connector to make sure wires soldered is open.

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11. Slide the outer shell over the connector.  It is a good idea to check continuity again after the connector is reassembled.

20200611_234118.thumb.jpg.251181f2c250d44fd3dd0bc857e4c8d0.jpg

 

12. Base cable completed.

20200611_234209.thumb.jpg.052b34f386015801a9dbe80b44fd6054.jpg

 

13. Now we will start working on JSSG360 shielding by sliding the tinned copper braid over the base cable from the Oyaide connector side.

20200612_093553.thumb.jpg.a96658f9793f1492683456638f2880b2.jpg

 

14. Wrap the tinned copper braid with teflon thread tape.  It is easier to work with using 1" wide gas pipe tape.

20200612_093746.thumb.jpg.423f6862de232fb57feadca5668097d6.jpg

 

15. Teflon tape wrapped cable.

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16. Before sliding the second layer tinned copper braid, wrap a short section of teflon tape over the end of first tinned copper braid to protect the end and prevent the wires from braid from interfere with the second layer tinned copper braid while sliding over the first one.

20200612_095143.thumb.jpg.230eea0ee71552ef16cf3989495bc288.jpg20200612_095236.thumb.jpg.fb06e5783c6b3c928f7e376cb4693b9d.jpg

 

17. After the second layer tinned copper braid is slided over the first layer, don't forget to remove that short section teflon tape.

20200612_095613.thumb.jpg.78844fcf0babc03a2a58ea23dffbe0fc.jpg

 

18. Cut one piece of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing and slide them over the end of two tinned copper braids.

20200612_100518.thumb.jpg.79943deb194b7f4af70f08e14b47f54c.jpg

 

19. Apply heat to heat shrink tubing.

20200612_100714.thumb.jpg.23258548dcf4fb2db0b2e3bf900be361.jpg

 

20. Do the same two steps (18 and 19) above for the Oyaide connector side.

20200612_100901.thumb.jpg.d1bce813ffe2d52212845588d8cefa46.jpg20200612_101130.thumb.jpg.e3d53661204425bc3d4220184faa0065.jpg

 

21. Check continuity between the tinned copper braid and the connector to ensure it is open.

20200612_101239.thumb.jpg.b9a1836cd95462b854524ee4fbd55ccc.jpg

 

22. JSSG360 shielding completed.

20200612_101439.thumb.jpg.69744519def464f5db6680ae8f4e2a55.jpg

 

23. Next is to dress up the cable by cutting the Techflex sleeving to proper length and then slide over the JSSG360 shielding completed cable.

20200612_101706.thumb.jpg.bade5913f8e15b9f9de490f29bd6d423.jpg

 

24.  Final step is using the same adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to bond them together.

20200612_104717.thumb.jpg.3f8970a9d7cdb7379952143b9f300cb9.jpg

 

 

Hope these are clear and simple to follow.  Enjoy building them.

 

I will now move on to work on ATX and EPS cables.

 

 

 

 

I have read that the official JSSG360 method will add a extra wire to connect both ends of the double shielding. But I see several audiophiles don’t add the extra wire. Is there a reason for?

 

I love this design really much but did you also tried this design with Star Quad geometry?

 

I already upgraded the wire in my network switch with a twisted Mundorf cable likes yours and I really like it! The increase in resolution is impressive, but still sounds very natural and effortless.

 

 I’m really curious about your opinion about my two questions above.

 

Can’t wait to build my own DC cable!

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  • 1 month later...
9 hours ago, Always.Learning said:

Apart from the Extreme, I can’t think of any other change to my system that has been this dramatic, save for speakers.

I’m really happy this worked out so well for you.  

Digital:  Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120

Amp & Speakers:  Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T

Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256

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  • 1 month later...

According to the Mundorf PTFE interconnect topic, I was wondering if someone has tried to build a powercord of Mundorf silver/gold wire?

 

I was thinking twisting 2x 1mm for the lead and 2x 1mm for the nul. Or different  thicknesses like in some litze design.

 

I think it can turn out wonderfully, but it’s quite expensive experiment. So I was wondering if someone has experience with this idea!?

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  • 2 weeks later...

@George HincapieHi George. The primary consideration is re: the shielding connecting two devices and creating ground issues. There are cables that are shielded, but either connected only at one end, or neither end. In that way, one gets the benefits of shielding without the ground loop consideration.
 

Some folks suggest the shielding is valuable; others say it degrades SQ. Belden is a good source for tested, quality ethernet cables. 

 

Personally, I have tested shielded and unshielded cable, and don't find a difference here. Keep the rubber-side down. Good luck with the cable project.

I'm MarkusBarkus and I approve this post.10C78B47-4B41-4675-BB84-885019B72A8B.thumb.png.adc3586c8cc9851ecc7960401af05782.png

 

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
On 12/20/2022 at 7:25 PM, Always.Learning said:

Feel free to forward on my mini-review to Sean, @Fourlegs. And thank you for participating in the listening tests -- you landed on some really sweet sounding caps. I am also very happy listening to my DAVE these days, thanks in large part to the efforts of Sean Jacobs and folks like you. 

 

I have emailed Sean with your mini review and he was very interested. I think the subtle top end detail provided by installing the Cap Board in the Dave was a large factor in me preferring my ‘pimped’ Dave compared to the Rossini Apex in my recent listening comparison.

Owner Wave High Fidelity digital cables :

Antipodes Oladra (WAVE Storm BNC spdif RF noise filtering cable to Mscaler)

Dave (with Sean Jacobs ARC6 and SJ Cap Board) + WAVE Storm dual BNC RF noise filtering cables

ATC150 active speakers.

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7 hours ago, Fourlegs said:

 

I have emailed Sean with your mini review and he was very interested. I think the subtle top end detail provided by installing the Cap Board in the Dave was a large factor in me preferring my ‘pimped’ Dave compared to the Rossini Apex in my recent listening comparison.

Yes, I read your review and it sounded like the top end of the two DACs was a critical factor in your preference for DAVE. I would agree that the caps board's reduction of digital glare in the top end is critical but I also find that the caps board fleshes out a little more detail across the frequency spectrum and this is very welcome in the mid to upper bass range. 

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17 minutes ago, Always.Learning said:

Yes, I read your review and it sounded like the top end of the two DACs was a critical factor in your preference for DAVE. I would agree that the caps board's reduction of digital glare in the top end is critical but I also find that the caps board fleshes out a little more detail across the frequency spectrum and this is very welcome in the mid to upper bass range. 

 

I agree with all you say!!

Owner Wave High Fidelity digital cables :

Antipodes Oladra (WAVE Storm BNC spdif RF noise filtering cable to Mscaler)

Dave (with Sean Jacobs ARC6 and SJ Cap Board) + WAVE Storm dual BNC RF noise filtering cables

ATC150 active speakers.

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The Jcat Femto in my server used to be powered by the 5v sata output of the hdplex dc-atx convertor. Now it is being powered by an Uptone LPS-1. I want to upgrade the standard dc cable by a Neotech upocc 7N made by Ghent. It could sit right on top of the server case, close to the usb card, so a 30cm dc cable would be enough. Then again, I could also put it further away, lengthening the DC cable but reducing it's EMI influance.

 

May I ask what's the general consensus on this matter? Perhaps I'm overthinking this, let my wallet decide and go for the shortest length, some advice would be apriciated.

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