W4S and other USB fixers (non curated)

[ElviaCaprice]

Agreed, USB galvanic isolation isolation is where I go next.

Didn't you already have it with the Intona? Which you sold?

[lmitche]

Yes, the Intona proved the benefit of GA on the USB chain, but the implementation had some issues with my new DAC.

[Pablooo]

Pabloo, your result with the EN70HD doesn't surprise me. I use two here one between my wireless adapter and dual port bridged NAS followed by one between the NAS and audiopc. There appears to be an enormous amount of RFI carried on the network cables and the emosystems transformers do a great job of reducing it.

 

Like you, I'm not using any USB treatments between the audiopc and DAC.

 

That is exactly my experience! :-)

[Pablooo]

Last week you described your chain

Teradak ATX powered Windows 10 PC with Fidelizer, PPA USB 2, Still Point EMI sheets > AQ Carbon USB > RUR with stock power supply > Resonessence Labs Invicta > AVM SA8 > Usher BE10 Diamond (modded)

 

Now you added network isolation and removed RUR, because it didn't bring any further improvement.

 

So ... If one uses standalone machine configuration without any LAN (directly connected HDD and playing from RAM disk), do you mean RUR is useless for that case? I assumed computer itself is main source of noise and not the LAN. Your finding is very interesting and for me unexpected.

 

Hi bogi, actually I did not expect so much audible pollution flew in my music server via the network cable. The improvement that the network isolation provided made me decide seeking for further upgrades in galvanic insulation. The ultimate solution would be to disconnect the network from my music system and throw an extra ssd in the music server and store all music files locally but I just love JRemote on my Ipad. The solution Acousence/Artistic Fidelity is offering is very promising and I'm going to investigate their products further. But the Intona can also be a (cheaper) solution in my system.

[Chopsrr]

Ah, a non-curated thread. If you want to be a curator, then go work at a museum.

 

I don't have any experience with other USB cleaners or isolators, just the W4S RUR. There may be others out there that are better, but I'm quite pleased with the results I'm getting from my RUR. It's got well over 100 hours on it, and the new 12" Wireworld USB that replaced the stock W4S 6" USB, it now has over 50 hours. I like what the RUR has done and is still doing for my system, others may not.

 

In the end, it's all about system synergy and personal taste.

[eganz]

I can't tell you what wire it is, I bought 100m of very heavy gauge balanced solid silver wire about 8 years ago from a mate, it's unbranded, it cost me £600 which is probably at least scrap value, the reel weighed in heavy!

 

It's a doddle to buy some USB connectors and solder your own cables with parts from eBay, there are only 4 lines to solder and 2 for a data only connection (which will not work for many DACs).

 

okay, I tried your suggestion and it works very well.

 

I bought a known good Belden gold USB cable, and some new DIY solder plugs on eBay. Then I kept one end of the Belden cable (3 inch long), and only reconnected the data wires to the new plug for the source side. This produces a shielded, 3 inch long, data only cable with correct impedance, and is easy to make.

 

I'm very pleased with the results, It is audibly better than the provided short cable (plus 5V Blocker) that I was using.

 

Eric

[r_w]

God job, it's the best method of connection I've found, but only if the DAC allows it.

 

;-)

 

okay, I tried your suggestion and it works very well.

 

I bought a known good Belden gold USB cable, and some new DIY solder plugs on eBay. Then I kept one end of the Belden cable (3 inch long), and only reconnected the data wires to the new plug for the source side. This produces a shielded, 3 inch long, data only cable with correct impedance, and is easy to make.

 

I'm very pleased with the results, It is audibly better than the provided short cable (plus 5V Blocker) that I was using.

 

Eric

[sandyk]

okay, I tried your suggestion and it works very well.

 

I bought a known good Belden gold USB cable, and some new DIY solder plugs on eBay. Then I kept one end of the Belden cable (3 inch long), and only reconnected the data wires to the new plug for the source side. This produces a shielded, 3 inch long, data only cable with correct impedance, and is easy to make.

 

I'm very pleased with the results, It is audibly better than the provided short cable (plus 5V Blocker) that I was using.

 

Eric

 

You need to be careful with some of the Belden cables,because almost all of the shield wires are steel and can't be soldered to the metal of the USB plug.

[Daren F]

You need to be careful with some of the Belden cables,because almost all of the shield wires are steel and can't be soldered to the metal of the USB plug.

 

I think that they have mixed up Belkin with Belden. There is a Belkin Gold USB cable but as far as I know, Belden does not make USB specific cables.

[eganz]

I think that they have mixed up Belkin with Belden. There is a Belkin Gold USB cable but as far as I know, Belden does not make USB specific cables.

 

 

yes sorry, I meant Belkin.

In any case, the shield was cut to break the ground connection.

[Superdad]

You need to be careful with some of the Belden cables,because almost all of the shield wires are steel and can't be soldered to the metal of the USB plug.

 

Sorry Alex, I've worked with a lot of different shielded Belden wire and have never found any of it to have steel drain wires or braids. Must just be the versions they send down under.

No worries though mate…

--Alex C.

[sandyk]

Sorry Alex, I've worked with a lot of different shielded Belden wire and have never found any of it to have steel drain wires or braids. Must just be the versions they send down under.

No worries though mate…

--Alex C.

 

 

Alex C

The 1.8M one ( MAY have been Belkin usb2 hi-speed cable gold series) that I cut up a couple of months ago to make some shorter cables with, had steel wire braid with only a very small number of copper wires in the mix that were very obvious by their different colour, There were far too few copper wires to make a strong connection. Neither did an application of liquid flux help with soldering the others.

Almost all of my USB cables are cut in half types with new solder type USB-A plugs fitted,(most have +5V not connected in the new plug too) as I don't need leads longer than 900mm for use with my PC.

I have seen other cables that also use ALL steel wire braiding and can't be readily soldered either. e.g.75 ohm coax.

Alex K

[JW Audio]

Alex C

The 1.8M one ( MAY have been Belkin usb2 hi-speed cable gold series) that I cut up a couple of months ago to make some shorter cables with, had steel wire braid with only a very small number of copper wires in the mix that were very obvious by their different colour, There were far too few copper wires to make a strong connection. Neither did an application of liquid flux help with soldering the others.

Almost all of my USB cables are cut in half types with new solder type USB-A plugs fitted,(most have +5V not connected in the new plug too) as I don't need leads longer than 900mm for use with my PC.

I have seen other cables that also use ALL steel wire braiding and can't be readily soldered either. e.g.75 ohm coax.

Alex K

 

+1

[4est]

Well, you can solder to steel with the right flux, but it will need to be cleaned very well afterwards.

[sandyk]

Well, you can solder to steel with the right flux, but it will need to be cleaned very well afterwards.

 

Agreed. However, those types of fluxes are corrosive.

[hifi_swlon]

I just added an Intona (industrial ver) to my system for evaluation. I previously tried a Regen, which I found gave no improvement to my ears (so I sold it after a few weeks), so this should be interesting.

 

Will report back once I've had it in for at least a few days.

[eatapc]

Anyone having issues with the Jitterbug? I thought it made a nice sonic improvement, but over time I started having intermittent glitching (dropout and digital noise lasting for about 2 seconds), usually after my system had warmed up and played for awhile. I have a Mac Mini with a Lynx Hilo; I upsample with Pure Music, so the USB is sending "high res" to the DAC at all times. I noticed that the Jitterbug gets quite hot, so I went back to using the Hilo straight into the Mac Mini without going through the Jitterbug. The glitching stopped.

 

As an experiment, I plugged my backup USB hard drive into the Jitterbug. After a few days of regular backups, I got a failure. I'm thinking the Jitterbug overheats with heavy, sustained data transfers and can cause an intermittent USB connection. Any thoughts?

[prg]

I ended up with this "el cheapo" LPS to replace my RUR's stock power supply. I'll let it cook for awhile before any critical listening. Out of the box the soundstage seems a bit forward. Runs cool too. Been running for 4 hours and it's not even close to warm. $98.00 on eBay plus $27.00 US shipping. Anything above $500 for a LPS will surely spell "divorce" for me.

 

Thanks to all for your expert advice.

 

[Angular Mo]

Here's my experience with USB fixers :

1) Jitterbug - worthless

> I totally agee. My expectation bias wore off and now I am stuck with a piece of plastic.

 

2) ifi purifier - a little help but not much

> works OK with my iFi Nano... no surprise. Not worth the USD 100, though a nicer looking piece of metal.

3) Amber Regen - significant help with most dacs but little help with dacs like the Schiit Yggy and Chord 2 qute

> Excellent device... not sure what it does, nor how to describe its effect other than to say i hear more layers of little musical treats in the background of tunes I thought I knew very well. OK, it regenerates USB, filters, and replaces power.... I wonder about its clock now that I have the RUR, admittedly I have only the Wyrd4Sound's device to compare it to.... and theoretically, there should be a way for me to test the LH Labs/ Pulse Sfi/s femto clock.

4) Intona Isolator - best choice with my Yggy . Made a marked improvement using a new iMac and the Yggy . The Yggy does not have galvanic isolation so the Intona ( not industrial version ) really helped a lot .

- I will have to buy this gadget next.

5) Wyred4Sound Recovery USB Reclocker, to paraphrase that famous curator... the oceans have opened, clouds dissipated. Seriously,

a) blacker, quieter backgrounds during silent parts... the music is between the notes, they say.

b) more timbre to acoustical instruments and a sense of inferring the musician's attack,

c) more depth of soundstage in that it reveals more of those musical teats in the background; not the same as detail.

d) feels less stressful...only time will tell though. The DT 990's were too stressful , sibilant (?), as were the KNS 8400...even with mods.

 

6) Akiko USB Tuning Stick

- I think it is not doing anything in this deployment. IIRC, it did fix some crackling noise in a Laptop setup I was using. So, I think one knows what it does by what is not happening anymore.

 

My deployment or this little review;

iMac > Straight Wire USB > Schiit Wyrd > Supra USB Cable > iFi Purifier 2 > Wyrd4Sound Recovery USB Reclocker (powered by Anker Battery, with iBooster in between) > Elijah Konvertible Regen Cable > Schiit Bifrost Multibit DAC > Mayflower Electronics O2 amp > Mophie 3.5mm cable extender > Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro 80 Ohm Headphones.

[johndean]

- I will have to buy this gadget next.

5) Wyred4Sound Recovery USB Reclocker, to paraphrase that famous curator... the oceans have opened, clouds dissipated. Seriously,

a) blacker, quieter backgrounds during silent parts... the music is between the notes, they say.

b) more timbre to acoustical instruments and a sense of inferring the musician's attack,

c) more depth of soundstage in that it reveals more of those musical teats in the background; not the same as detail.

d) feels less stressful...only time will tell though. The DT 990's were too stressful , sibilant (?), as were the KNS 8400...even with mods.

 

6) Akiko USB Tuning Stick

- I think it is not doing anything in this deployment. IIRC, it did fix some crackling noise in a Laptop setup I was using. So, I think one knows what it does by what is not happening anymore.

 

My deployment or this little review;

iMac > Straight Wire USB > Schiit Wyrd > Supra USB Cable > iFi Purifier 2 > Wyrd4Sound Recovery USB Reclocker (powered by Anker Battery, with iBooster in between) > Elijah Konvertible Regen Cable > Schiit Bifrost Multibit DAC > Mayflower Electronics O2 amp > Mophie 3.5mm cable extender > Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro 80 Ohm Headphones.

 

I have not tried the Wyred device so I will have to try !

[jexby]

- I will have to buy this gadget next.

 

My deployment or this little review;

iMac > Straight Wire USB > Schiit Wyrd > Supra USB Cable > iFi Purifier 2 > Wyrd4Sound Recovery USB Reclocker (powered by Anker Battery, with iBooster in between) > Elijah Konvertible Regen Cable > Schiit Bifrost Multibit DAC > Mayflower Electronics O2 amp > Mophie 3.5mm cable extender > Beyerdynamics DT770 Pro 80 Ohm Headphones.

 

really? 4 USB "conditioner products" for feeding a meager O2 amp and Beyer headphones and you want to add a *fifth* USB product (Intona)?

spend money on a better amp or top of the line headphones and stop over complicating your USB chain.

 

having owned both Wyrd and Ifi Purifier 2, they can be eclipsed (likely) by the W4S on it's own or a Regen Amber via LPS or Mutech 3+USB if you want spdif into your BiFrost.

 

balance/synergy is best across the whole chain, don't fixate on multiple USB tweaks which in reality may never be truly revealed at the other side of the amp.

[Angular Mo]

really? 4 USB "conditioner products" for feeding a meager O2 amp and Beyer headphones and you want to add a *fifth* USB product (Intona)?

spend money on a better amp or top of the line headphones and stop over complicating your USB chain.

 

having owned both Wyrd and Ifi Purifier 2, they can be eclipsed (likely) by the W4S on it's own or a Regen Amber via LPS or Mutech 3+USB if you want spdif into your BiFrost.

 

balance/synergy is best across the whole chain, don't fixate on multiple USB tweaks which in reality may never be truly revealed at the other side of the amp.

 

JEXBY,

I DID NOT ASK FOR YOUR OPINION about where I should spend my money next. I gave a review.

 

Is my iBasso P4 Warbler or Schiit Vali good enough?

 

No headphone nor amp will correct issues noise, jitter, nor timing.

 

You are a snob.

[jexby]

Yah fine.

 

If 5 USB cleanup devices ($500-$700 in sum?) are required it's obvious to question why none of them do the job properly in singularity or even pairs.

 

A wise man once typed:

"The Land of Diminishing Returns lies at the edge of the Mid-Fi Hell flatlands, where there are many mirages and distractions."

Enjoy the journey of combinatorial tweaks.

 

Indeed no amp cleans up noise. A better amp just delivers sound better or differently.

 

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[MisterRogers]

He's not just a snob, he's an Uber Snob :-)

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[Angular Mo]

I gave a review of individual devices, not a set of varied combinations.

 

I use only the

Wyrd, for power

and

Regen

 

The Jitterbug is in the trash.

The iFi Purifier I use MOSTLY on my iFi Nano.

 

I would use the Itona on a different set up, such as my LH Labs.

 

The Akiko Tuning fork does wonders on a laptop. So that alone is a different use-case. Was that in the chain I used for my little review?

 

I listen to music in 5 different rooms in my house, am I to walk around with only one USB fixer device?

 

Who said I would use all 5 anywhere, and if I did why should anyone care, unless I ASKED FOR AN OPINION.

 

Maybe I will try one ahead of my Mojo just to have fun and see if that does anything, OMG ! IMO it is the DAC that does the revealing, I won't argue Objectivity and NwAvGuy here or anywhere else.

 

Look up "officious" and find Jexby's photo, folks.

 

Why buy anything when something better will come along when it comes to fixers.

 

Seems lots of folks with USD 2000 DACs are using these devices, so I am quite happy with my Bimby, O2, and DT 770, especially my Mojo.

 

Is there a way to block people so I don't have to read their posts?