W4S and other USB fixers (non curated)

[SwissBear]

Thank you. The first step would be to have a device on trial, just to make sure that the MC-3+ USB is benefiting from this clock signal. Will see depending on Mutec's announcement. Thank you anyway.

[SwissBear]

Well, the normalized phase-noise lower than -225dbc/Hz is impressive to say the least.

Any idea of the price of this clock ?

In fact, I was misled by the normalized phase-noise of -225dbc/Hz.

At 10 Hz the phase noise is -120dc, compared to -140db for Mutec's Ref10. So we probably need to wait for the Ref10 of Mutec.

[r_w]

Just put the W4S Recovery in, from the get go, stone cold it sounds 3d rich and lush with no mid hardness = very good indeed (using a special edition 9v LPS).

 

Westy, I'll be amazed if I prefer the Intona (industrial) on its own when it arrives... between Aurender N100 and Auralic VEGA the W4S Recovery is a significant step up from the REGEN. (using Curious short tail into Recovery and DIY data only 2cm cable into the VEGA).

 

I've now got a plethora of USB tweaks lying around, but its gone a bit like this (all tried, where applicable, with high quality LPS):

 

W4S Recovery = excellent, as above

REGEN = good, improves but hardens and thins just a bit

TotalDAC USB Fliter/cable = very good, lush

DIY data only usb 2cm link = excellent, best result for the final connection

Curious short tail USB = very good, lush

Intona Industrial = ordered, waiting to find out

 

---

 

Optically isolated LAN with LPS = excellent, big improvement overall

 

... hope that helps a few people.

 

 

;-)

[johndean]

Here's my experience with USB fixers :

1) Jitterbug - worthless

2) ifi purifier - a little help but not much

3) Amber Regen - significant help with most dacs but little help with dacs like the Schiit Yggy and Chord 2 qute

4) Intona Isolator - best choice with my Yggy . Made a marked improvement using a new iMac and the Yggy . The Yggy does not have galvanic isolation so the Intona ( not industrial version ) really helped a lot .

[r_w]

LOL, yes the Jitterbug was so crap for me I forgot to even mention it in my list. I guess it would help poor quality gear though.

 

 

These lists are a good idea and propably very helpful to those yet to experiment.

 

 

 

 

Here's my experience with USB fixers :

1) Jitterbug - worthless

2) ifi purifier - a little help but not much

3) Amber Regen - significant help with most dacs but little help with dacs like the Schiit Yggy and Chord 2 qute

4) Intona Isolator - best choice with my Yggy . Made a marked improvement using a new iMac and the Yggy . The Yggy does not have galvanic isolation so the Intona ( not industrial version ) really helped a lot .

[TPiddy]

Next the W4S and most notably was the overall better picture. Not dramatic, but noticeable and positive. I think it is better bass extension and definition that just allows other things like presence and tone to just work. Still a little hardness in the leading edge, but overall better that with the Regen and does not draw focus unless I am looking for it.

 

After spending some real listening time with the W4S, I will take back the impression of a little hardness remaining. Overall sound is the best I have had and the leading edge etch is gone with everything rounder and more natural.

 

Trying hard to resist ordering an Intona though.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[r_w]

^^ Agree, I didn't hear any hardness with the W4S (your post made me worry a bit), was very pleased and relieved.

 

Waiting for Intona to arrive.

 

;-)

[pipis2010]

What I like in the W4S Recovery is the femto clock and that's why I know for sure it is a great product, that will do what they state.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[pipis2010]

Here's my experience with USB fixers :

1) Jitterbug - worthless

2) ifi purifier - a little help but not much

3) Amber Regen - significant help with most dacs but little help with dacs like the Schiit Yggy and Chord 2 qute

4) Intona Isolator - best choice with my Yggy . Made a marked improvement using a new iMac and the Yggy . The Yggy does not have galvanic isolation so the Intona ( not industrial version ) really helped a lot .

 

Has anyone tested the new ifi ipurifier2, which has a reclock function as well? Would love some feedback if possible...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[westy]

Blake, Killroy, Thanks for the comments. My name is ozzy on Audiogon and I have always tried to post honest opinions, but as we all know, it is based on my system and my ears.

 

r-w you will be impressed with the Intona. I also own the Industrial version.

 

pipis2010, yes, I still own the little iFi purifier 2 it costs so little that it wasn't worth it to sell it. I have it in front of my Hardrive. But, I can't be sure it makes any difference there.

 

I have a bunch of AQ Jitterbugs. They was a slight improvement originally in my Audio chain, but after upgrading with the other usb devices the Jitterbug actually added a slight veil to the sound so they are banished to the outskirts of my system. I have a couple plugged into my 85" Samsung UHD Led, and one on my cable box, modem and another on my Tascam HiRez recorder.

 

The Curious cables are the real thing.

[kilroy]

Blake, Killroy, Thanks for the comments. My name is ozzy on Audiogon and I have always tried to post honest opinions, but as we all know, it is based on my system and my ears.

 

r-w you will be impressed with the Intona. I also own the Industrial version.

 

pipis2010, yes, I still own the little iFi purifier 2 it costs so little that it wasn't worth it to sell it. I have it in front of my Hardrive. But, I can't be sure it makes any difference there.

 

I have a bunch of AQ Jitterbugs. They was a slight improvement originally in my Audio chain, but after upgrading with the other usb devices the Jitterbug actually added a slight veil to the sound so they are banished to the outskirts of my system. I have a couple plugged into my 85" Samsung UHD Led, and one on my cable box, modem and another on my Tascam HiRez recorder.

 

The Curious cables are the real thing.

 

What affect does the Jitterbug have on the Samsung? Is it in series with a cable or stand-alone?

[westy]

The Samsung has 3 USB inputs.

[kilroy]

The Samsung has 3 USB inputs.

 

But what effect does it have on picture quality is what I meant, sorry if that wasn't clear.

[markwb]

Crap! Here's another one!

 

PureUSB1 - B.M.C. Audio GmbH

[wanta911]

Crap! Here's another one!

 

PureUSB1 - B.M.C. Audio GmbH

 

LOL - it's never ending!

 

I'm so glad I gave up on USB completely. I think my music sounds better without all the thoughts of which USB add-on/s to use and the order I should use them in rattling around in my head.

 

This is a non curated thread - right?

[ElviaCaprice]

LOL - it's never ending!

 

I'm so glad I gave up on USB completely. I think my music sounds better without all the thoughts of which USB add-on/s to use and the order I should use them in rattling around in my head.

 

This is a non curated thread - right?

 

Good for you. If you can do without versatility/options and possible what I think is the best SQ available when done correct.

Guess that don't help the rest of us who want just that.

[kilroy]

 

This is a non curated thread - right?

 

Yes but you're still off topic and your message may have little value in some folks eyes.

[wanta911]

Good for you. If you can do without versatility/options and possible what I think is the best SQ available when done correct.

Guess that don't help the rest of us who want just that.

 

Yes but you're still off topic and your message may have little value in some folks eyes.

 

Fair enough...but I'm not sure if it's off topic after persevering with USB for a long time. I have a draw full of USB paraphernalia including a Cardas Clear USB cable, a Totaldac D1 cable, an Oyaide Continental 5S USB cable, an Elijah Audio Isolate CU cable, an Uptone Regen Amber and 3 x Audioquest Jitterbugs. I've also tried (on loan) a Curious cable, a Schiit Wyrd and an ifi Purifier.

 

I just got to a point where I decided that SPDIF was fine in my setup, of course YMMV and I guess it depends on the source and the particular DAC.

 

Anyway, I'll leave you to it.

[earflappin]

Fair enough...but I'm not sure if it's off topic after persevering with USB for a long time. I have a draw full of USB paraphernalia including a Cardas Clear USB cable, a Totaldac D1 cable, an Oyaide Continental 5S USB cable, an Elijah Audio Isolate CU cable, an Uptone Regen Amber and 3 x Audioquest Jitterbugs. I've also tried (on loan) a Curious cable, a Schiit Wyrd and an ifi Purifier.

 

I just got to a point where I decided that SPDIF was fine in my setup, of course YMMV and I guess it depends on the source and the particular DAC.

 

Anyway, I'll leave you to it.

 

What are you using to source the SPDIF?

[wanta911]

What are you using to source the SPDIF?

 

AES/EBU mostly from Auralic Aries but coax is fine too.

[tranz]

Yes but you're still off topic and your message may have little value in some folks eyes.

 

Avoiding USB all together is also an USB fixer option.

 

And is that not the case for any post from anyone?

[r_w]

@tranz,

 

Hi mate.

 

I think the top two USB gizmos are looking like the W4S and Intona.

 

I get that at the time USB didn't work for you. At the moment USB is sounding very good here, N100 USB is noticeably better than Cyrus CDXT Signature via coax into Auralic VEGA.

 

The yellowtec PUC Lite USB > AES device seems to be very highly rated for the coin (preferred by some over the Berkley), but I'm not sure if it will work with Aurender... looks interesting.

 

My feeling was/is if USB must stay in the chain (N100 only has USB) how does adding a format converter differ from fixing the USB signal at source (appreciating that it's only very recently that W4S and Intona have existed) as USB is still in the loop?

[OldBigEars]

I thought the Mutec was this month's latest and greatest, no?

 

@tranz,

 

Hi mate.

 

I think the top two USB gizmos are looking like the W4S and Intona.

 

I get that at the time USB didn't work for you. At the moment USB is sounding very good here, N100 USB is noticeably better than Cyrus CDXT Signature via coax into Auralic VEGA.

 

The yellowtec PUC Lite USB > AES device seems to be very highly rated for the coin (preferred by some over the Berkley), but I'm not sure if it will work with Aurender... looks interesting.

 

My feeling was/is if USB must stay in the chain (N100 only has USB) how does adding a format converter differ from fixing the USB signal at source (appreciating that it's only very recently that W4S and Intona have existed) as USB is still in the loop?

[ElviaCaprice]

I just got to a point where I decided that SPDIF was fine in my setup, of course YMMV and I guess it depends on the source and the particular DAC.

 

That's for sure. For myself I don't get caught up in every gizmo that comes out. I carefully select any upgrades that first have been well vetted and secondly make some sense in my mind how USB works. I don't get caught up in the cable game. I've found cheap adapters the best sounding and if I have to make a run, just a basic well made Supra cable is more than enough. If folks are finding results with exotic cables then I have to think there is something wrong somewhere else in there component chain or they just prefer the coloring (noise). Of course YMMV.

[tranz]

Hi r_w,

 

Glad to hear that. Those 2 are getting great reviews indeed. In the end it matters what works in your system. There are so many permutations of differing elements that could influence the final result (with USB especially) that sadly the only way to really know is try it in your own room/setup. Even testing it at a store is not good enough. I liked the USB to AES converter, and Berkeley maintains that setup even for their flagship DAC. The Regen I think was the first to regenerate the signal as close to the destination which is very effective. Between source and destination a lot can still happen.