IKEA bamboo cutting board and Herbie's Audio Lab Tenderfeet

[bgoc]

On 1/28/2015 at 11:22 PM, AudioDoctor said:

 

I have a Herbies turntable mat on my SL1200, and I am happy with it. However it is my understanding that the purpose of the Bamboo is to be coupled to the equipment so it can absorb the vibrations. The Herbies Tenderfeet look like isolation feet, not coupling feet. IMO of course, I may be wrong.

I put the Herbies under the cutting board for isolation and couple the equipment to the cutting board. I have tried all kinds of combinations and found this to work best

 

[bgoc]

Just to add to the the idea , I found that the herbies black dots work just as well as the tenderfeet  between the cutting board and rack, with the added benefit of a lower profile and cost.

[AudioDoctor]

8 hours ago, bgoc said:

Just to add to the the idea , I found that the herbies black dots work just as well as the tenderfeet  between the cutting board and rack, with the added benefit of a lower profile and cost.

 

 

Cool, good to know!

[Bullwinkle]

Tomorrow (Saturday April 22nd), IKEA has a one-day in-store sale for "IKEA Family" members (sign up for free online) and the bamboo boards will be 20% off. Just make sure not to take the whole family... you know how that will turn out. Me, I'll be home tinkering with my new server, but I aim to be of service to my fellow man.

 

Also FWIW, Ascend Acoustics has made their Sierra line of speakers out of a custom bamboo plywood for quite awhile, thinking it a superior cabinet material.

[Bullwinkle]

You know, I am skeptical about this whole biz. But being a curious sort I started poking around on the Ikea website. The fact is, they've got a great big lot of stuff crafted out of bamboo. Including table tops, counter tops, and a whole line of (their usual style of) mix-n-match modular shelving (the SVALNAS line). Fact is--if you really believe in this big bamboo biz--you could put your entire system on bamboo-only shelving.

[andru26]

33 minutes ago, Bullwinkle said:

You know, I am skeptical about this whole biz. But being a curious sort I started poking around on the Ikea website. The fact is, they've got a great big lot of stuff crafted out of bamboo. Including table tops, counter tops, and a whole line of (their usual style of) mix-n-match modular shelving (the SVALNAS line). Fact is--if you really believe in this big bamboo biz--you could put your entire system on bamboo-only shelving.

 

I was on the same side as you and wasn't expecting much improvement from some chopper boards. But I was very wrong. No way these are going out of my system. Besides, you can always return them, but I guarantee you won't do that

[Lynn124]

Ikea also sells the least expensive solid maple butcher block cabinet top I found. Actual thickness is 1 1/8ths inch. I saw several people mention they use maple. If I remember right it's 6 feet long and at least 2 feet wide.

[GUTB]

Here is my 845 SET sitting on my poor-man's Mapleshade platform.

 

3" thick maple butcher block from eBay. Very heavy, not cheap.

The amp's feet are removed and is now sitting on a trio of Mapleshade 2" Heavyfeet. Not threaded.

The base is being supported by a set of four Mapleshade Isoblocks in the recommended diamond configuration. Pieces of cardboard was used to even them out for even weight distribution.

 

 

 

[bgoc]

I have almost the exact setup, except I replaced the isoblocks with Herbies tenderfeet 

[TubeLover]

I recalled this discussion the other night, and came back and read it due to a need that I had for bamboo/wood cutting boards for my newly purchased monoblocks. After reading through the discussion, I started at Ikea and checked numerous sources online without being able to find any large enough (20x24 or at least close). I spent the entire Saturday  driving to pick up the amps from the seller  (700 miles round trip). When I woke up yesterday,  I needed urgently to put my hands on something local, just to be able to listen to the amplifiers in my system. I tried Home Depot, and Lowes without finding anything large enough.

 

Then I went to Manards. At first, after a helpful female employee showed me all the cutting boards available, I again thought I was out of luck. Just then, another employee, a guy who had familiarity with kitchen countertops etc., came over, and said he might just have something that would work for me. He took me to a storage area behind the kitchen displays, and showed me a four foot by 25 inch x

1.5 inch, flat, butcher block counter top piece, that was only $100.00, tax included. I promptly grabbed it, bought it, took it home, placed on the carpeting in front of my equipment stand, and it works great. I could also always cut it in two (don't own a saw) Picture included below.

 

Now, given that I will be on an all inclusive Ramen noodle diet for 3-4 months after what I paid for the amps, I just need to work out the best, most affordable way to couple the amps to the wood support. And I have to take into account that these amps are beasts at 70 pounds each, plus large, at 21 deep by 17 wide.

 

JC

 

 

[Blake]

Nice Lamm amps @Tubelover.

 

I have similarly large and heavy amps and preamps at home and at work.  I'm using the cheap as chips Ikea Aptitlig boards in the system at work.  I have a number of different footers I accumulated over the years.  Right now at work, the power amp has the original version of the Stillpoints and the preamp has Synergistic Research MiG's. 

 

At home I settled on the current version of Stillpoints under everything except the power amp is on Rollerblocks.  I also have some Boston Audio Tuneblocks.  I'm not sure if they still make those.  For platforms at home I am using the big Mapleshade versions.  

 

I think the IsoAcoustic IsoPucks and Orea footers look interesting.  I am currently trying out some IsoAcoustic Gaia footers under the speakers at home as well.

 

 

[TubeLover]

Several people specifically mentioned using IKEA Aptitlig bamboo cutting boards. I also will need a pair for a pair of speakers that I have on the way. The speakers are 14w x 13 d. I'm looking at this Aptitlig version, which is the right size. If you turn it over, is the bottom side flat? The top side has channels/grooves. 

 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00233429/

 

JC

[TubeLover]

Wow, apparently you can buy the same exact Ikea product at Amazon for only $18.00 more, almost double the price! 😲

 

https://www.amazon.com/IKEA-APTITLIG-Butcher-block-bamboo/dp/9178910374/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Ikea+APTITLIG+Butcher+block%2C+bamboo&qid=1566853009&s=gateway&sr=8-1

[AudioDoctor]

57 minutes ago, TubeLover said:

Several people specifically mentioned using IKEA Aptitlig bamboo cutting boards. I also will need a pair for a pair of speakers that I have on the way. The speakers are 14w x 13 d. I'm looking at this Aptitlig version, which is the right size. If you turn it over, is the bottom side flat? The top side has channels/grooves. 

 

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00233429/

 

JC

 

I have a bunch of those exact IKEA bamboo cutting boards under my equipment, with IsoAcoustics IsoPucks under them and the equipment.

 

Yes, one side of the board is flat.

[AudioDoctor]

It looks like IsoAcoustics wants to get in on the cutting board action...

 

http://www.isoacoustics.com/#

[accwai]

3 hours ago, TubeLover said:

[...] I just need to work out the best, most affordable way to couple the amps to the wood support. And I have to take into account that these amps are beasts at 70 pounds each, plus large, at 21 deep by 17 wide.

 

There are different sizes of Aptitlig. The medium one is 5/8" thick and probably the most appropriate thickness for footers. The original Audio Beat article did talk about cutting it into 1.5"x1.5" squares. 70-80lb amp they can handle no problem. That should tie you over until you're ready for Stillpoints etc.

[Ralf11]

is bamboo as good as maple?

[Blake]

40 minutes ago, accwai said:

 

There are different sizes of Aptitlig. The medium one is 5/8" thick and probably the most appropriate thickness for footers. The original Audio Beat article did talk about cutting it into 1.5"x1.5" squares. 70-80lb amp they can handle no problem. That should tie you over until you're ready for Stillpoints etc.

 

Oh yeah, speaking of cutting, I almost forgot-  I ended up using a table saw to cut up an Aptitlig to place under the desktop monitors at work.  Some of the bamboo slabs sandwiched into the middle section fell out during the process (see photo), but no big whoop.  I'm not sure about cutting it into super small pieces though- the glue might not hold all of the mini slabs together.  These boards are made by gluing lots of small strips of bamboo together.    

 

 

[accwai]

27 minutes ago, Blake said:

Oh yeah, speaking of cutting, I almost forgot-  I ended up using a table saw to cut up an Aptitlig to place under the desktop monitors at work.  Some of the bamboo slabs sandwiched into the middle section fell out during the process (see photo), but no big whoop.  I'm not sure about cutting it into super small pieces though- the glue might not hold all of the mini slabs together.  These boards are made by gluing lots of small strips of bamboo together.

 

We're talking medium size Aptitlig. These are single layer, no sandwich in the middle. 1.5"x1.5" is definitely no problem. Even 1.5"x1" can be made quite reliably. I would imagine 1"x1" can be done too.

[Blake]

To clarify, my comments are for the Aptitlig butcher's block, 17 3/4" x 14 1/4" which have multiple bamboo layers.   I have no experience with the single layer Aptitlig "chopping  board".  The butcher's block version of the Aptitlig was deemed to be the most effective as compared to the chopping board version of the Aptitlig in the Audio Beat article, IIRC.  

[AudioDoctor]

Yes, I also have the multi layer boards. All Bamboo boards are essentially glued together as bamboo is not a solid wood like product like Birch or Maple. IMO what makes this board work is the fact that the layers are perpendicular to each other and they are very dense.

[Sam Lord]

Vibration control is simple to understand: get the motion of components to frequencies well below the audio band.  The main goal is to minimize displacement of speakers from the motion of their transducers, and to minimize acceleration of all other electronics.  Like anything, It can be difficult to implement to the nth degree.  Energy problems are easy to solve, but momentum problems are harder.  The kinetic energy of objects can be converted into heat.  But their momentum, being a vector, can never be stopped, only slowed or summed.  Treating momentum problems can require effort, space, and mass or mechanical devices to reduce resonant frequencies to be very subsonic. 

 

The development of high-quality bearings for speakers (like Aurios) have been a big advance: they sum the horizontal momentum vectors for a wonderful effect, and settle at an ultra-low frequency.  For all the other components, which need relief from mostly-vertical displacement, mass loading with sorbothane does a great job.  If you shell out for fancier mechanical devices you can do better still, but mounting pieces on heavy, rigid bases like paving stones and then placing carefully-chosen sorbothane feet beneath those bases can do wonders for a fair price.   

[accwai]

13 hours ago, Blake said:

To clarify, my comments are for the Aptitlig butcher's block, 17 3/4" x 14 1/4" which have multiple bamboo layers.   I have no experience with the single layer Aptitlig "chopping  board".  The butcher's block version of the Aptitlig was deemed to be the most effective as compared to the chopping board version of the Aptitlig in the Audio Beat article, IIRC.  

 

To clarify, my comments were related to the inquiry about most affordable way to couple 70lb amps to wood support. Nothing more. The large Aptitlig butcher's block is the most appropriate type for base boards. That's pretty much a give. And the small 9.5"x6" Aptitlig chopping board would be most appropriate as place for an NCF Booster to stand on, if you're into fetish like that...

[TubeLover]

Has anyone tried Iso Cups from herbies?

 

https://herbiesaudiolab.com/collections/component-isolation/products/iso-cup

 

JC

[JanRSmit]

On 8/27/2019 at 5:22 AM, Sam Lord said:

Vibration control is simple to understand: get the motion of components to frequencies well below the audio band.  The main goal is to minimize displacement of speakers from the motion of their transducers, and to minimize acceleration of all other electronics.  Like anything, It can be difficult to implement to the nth degree.  Energy problems are easy to solve, but momentum problems are harder.  The kinetic energy of objects can be converted into heat.  But their momentum, being a vector, can never be stopped, only slowed or summed.  Treating momentum problems can require effort, space, and mass or mechanical devices to reduce resonant frequencies to be very subsonic. 

 

The development of high-quality bearings for speakers (like Aurios) have been a big advance: they sum the horizontal momentum vectors for a wonderful effect, and settle at an ultra-low frequency.  For all the other components, which need relief from mostly-vertical displacement, mass loading with sorbothane does a great job.  If you shell out for fancier mechanical devices you can do better still, but mounting pieces on heavy, rigid bases like paving stones and then placing carefully-chosen sorbothane feet beneath those bases can do wonders for a fair price.   

A large part of what you are telling i can follow. But not what you mean with momentum. (Its language, my english is rusty) Can you explain what you mean with momentum and never be stopped?

Also what i miss is damping, ie to reduce the amplitude by conversion into another form of energy like heat. (Assuming one gets the vibration into that without any reflections)