MasterWarzombie Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Can you tell me if I can put a "weight" on the FARAD to limit vibrations? Link to comment
Varadero xl 1000v Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 14 minutes ago, MasterWarzombie said: Difficult to express feelings when English is not my language. First impression hot, rather cold, of the installation of the FARAD on my etherregen. just an hour after the FARAD was turned on. From the start I felt a different feeling when listening to my test playlist. My first word is some opening up of the soundstage (more open bass and detailed high frequency). I think I am not mistaken. My clock is also burning in etc ..... I have the impression that "the sound level" is "lower" and I can go up two or three notches more than my usual volume without the sound invading me I'm going to let it all burn in. The power cable, SR orange, Farad .. everything is new. It has to fall into place. The aesthetics of the FARAD is pretty even if I prefer the jewel JS2 Uptone Audio. A black JS2 would be a desire for me. Laurent Glad to hear. It will definitely take several hours for you to see the true performance of everything you bought! - MasterWarzombie 1 Link to comment
MarkusBarkus Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 33 minutes ago, MasterWarzombie said: Can you tell me if I can put a "weight" on the FARAD to limit vibrations? ...mine have always run very cool. I think you could put a weight on top, no problem. You could even put a penguin on top... MasterWarzombie 1 I'm MarkusBarkus and I approve this post. Link to comment
One and a half Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 3 hours ago, MasterWarzombie said: Difficult to express feelings when English is not my language. First impression hot, rather cold, of the installation of the FARAD on my etherregen. just an hour after the FARAD was turned on. From the start I felt a different feeling when listening to my test playlist. My first word is some opening up of the soundstage (more open bass and detailed high frequency). I think I am not mistaken. My clock is also burning in etc ..... I have the impression that "the sound level" is "lower" and I can go up two or three notches more than my usual volume without the sound invading me I'm going to let it all burn in. The power cable, SR orange, Farad .. everything is new. It has to fall into place. The aesthetics of the FARAD is pretty even if I prefer the jewel JS2 Uptone Audio. A black JS2 would be a desire for me. Laurent Than you for the impressions. Can you tell me what Power Supply you used before on the EtherRegen? AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
MasterWarzombie Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 7 hours ago, One and a half said: Than you for the impressions. Can you tell me what Power Supply you used before on the EtherRegen? Initially my etherregen was powered by its cousin JS2 Uptone Audio Since the acquisition of an external clock, my ER was powered by a Waversa WLPS in the expectation of finding better because it was written on the forum that it was necessary to avoid feeding on the same linear power supply two products connected to the ER. Link to comment
MasterWarzombie Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 10 hours ago, MarkusBarkus said: ...mine have always run very cool. I think you could put a weight on top, no problem. You could even put a penguin on top... The farad has been in operation since yesterday. It is slightly warm but not cool as you describe it. Link to comment
One and a half Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 13 minutes ago, MasterWarzombie said: Initially my etherregen was powered by its cousin JS2 Uptone Audio Since the acquisition of an external clock, my ER was powered by a Waversa WLPS in the expectation of finding better because it was written on the forum that it was necessary to avoid feeding on the same linear power supply two products connected to the ER. Thank you about the PSU before. If I understand correctly, the clock and ER were connected to the same supply? It is difficult to talk technical English, I would struggle en francais 😉. Once my new ER has burned in, I plan to connect the ER and ifi Micro USB3 from the same power supply, 9V 6.5A. It is an experiment, with all the 0V connected to PE conductor, there should not be any differences in return paths, since this is industrial wiring practice. It is difficult to stop leakage currents, that's why the forum recommends separate power supply for ER and any other device like a clock. When two devices have different power supplies connected floating, and joined with signal cable, then there will be trouble since the signal cable will carry noise from one to the other. Not the best. MasterWarzombie 1 AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
MasterWarzombie Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 6 minutes ago, One and a half said: Thank you about the PSU before. If I understand correctly, the clock and ER were connected to the same supply? It is difficult to talk technical English, I would struggle en francais 😉. Once my new ER has burned in, I plan to connect the ER and ifi Micro USB3 from the same power supply, 9V 6.5A. It is an experiment, with all the 0V connected to PE conductor, there should not be any differences in return paths, since this is industrial wiring practice. It is difficult to stop leakage currents, that's why the forum recommends separate power supply for ER and any other device like a clock. When two devices have different power supplies connected floating, and joined with signal cable, then there will be trouble since the signal cable will carry noise from one to the other. Not the best. the clock and ER were connected to the same supply? yes Link to comment
One and a half Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 1 hour ago, MasterWarzombie said: the clock and ER were connected to the same supply? yes Thank you, will report on how two can share. AS Profile Equipment List Say NO to MQA Link to comment
Varadero xl 1000v Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 Hi. On the integrated Mcintosh amplifier, how do you think orange fuse is the right direction? Link to comment
Tommd64 Posted April 2, 2021 Share Posted April 2, 2021 On 2/12/2021 at 10:06 PM, Varadero xl 1000v said: You were right! From noon I listen to orange in farad super 3. The difference is absolutely noticeable. But I want time to evaluate it more. But I think it was worth the money .. I’m playing with the Orange now. I’m from the Hi-Fi tuning fuses; a notably difference. Bit more bass and dynamics. According to Matthijs it’s wise to use an 🍊 orange in twice the size ; so Europe people in stead of 400ma use 800ma Link to comment
abo Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Hi The forum is a bit older, but there may still be answers. the farad is for a qutest. has anyone compared the rhodium ac inlet variant with the standard variant. I am considering whether it makes sense to order it. does it perform better in general, or only in connection with furutech rhodium connectors. how are the sound differences, what makes the rhodium better or worse. Is it a must have or can you do without it. would be interesting if someone could answer that. greeting Link to comment
Varadero xl 1000v Posted March 14, 2022 Share Posted March 14, 2022 Hi Guys. 2 weeks ago I changed ac 220 - 240v iec of lpsu Farad, with that of Firoutech sent to me by Mattijs. It was a fairly easy process, for a good technician it is not a problem! 1 hour of work! I have only good words to say !! Those of you who have lpsu Farad and have not done so, I tell you to change it. You will be surprised.. Link to comment
Markus8 Posted October 16, 2022 Share Posted October 16, 2022 Got the Super3 with Research Purple and Furutech inlet with L2 copper DC cable. Things are soundwise really up and down changing over the first days. Might take at least 2 weeks it seems if not more to stabilize/ blossom out? What are your recent experiences? Link to comment
Tommd64 Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 Hello Markus, Farad already burned in for 14 days in their PSU , to see if they are good; so they sound great out of the box. The Purple fuse though changes the first 100 hours. So please be patient it wil be better the upcoming days! Markus8 1 Link to comment
Popular Post JBL Posted October 18, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted October 18, 2022 Once your Super3 has sufficient burn in I would recommend trying a solid core starquad DC cable. There is a great thread on the Uptone forum on how to build your own starquad DC cable if you are comfortable using a soldering iron. I have 4 of the Super3's in my system and started with a stock DC cable. Moved up to the Level 2 silver then eventually made my own using 18awg solid core pure silver in teflon tubing with starquad twist. The amount of improvement in the SQ was greater than the addition of the Super3 on its own. I believe Audio Sensibility makes a very nice DC cable although it is not starquad which plays a significant part in the SQ improvement. The combination of Super3, Purple Fuse, high quality power cord, and solid core starquad DC cable is pretty incredible. Here is a picture of my first starquad cable I built. JBL cczero17 and Middy 2 Link to comment
cczero17 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 1 hour ago, JBL said: Once your Super3 has sufficient burn in I would recommend trying a solid core starquad DC cable. There is a great thread on the Uptone forum on how to build your own starquad DC cable if you are comfortable using a soldering iron. I have 4 of the Super3's in my system and started with a stock DC cable. Moved up to the Level 2 silver then eventually made my own using 18awg solid core pure silver in teflon tubing with starquad twist. The amount of improvement in the SQ was greater than the addition of the Super3 on its own. I believe Audio Sensibility makes a very nice DC cable although it is not starquad which plays a significant part in the SQ improvement. The combination of Super3, Purple Fuse, high quality power cord, and solid core starquad DC cable is pretty incredible. Here is a picture of my first starquad cable I built. JBL Interesting. I tested both the Copper and Silver level 2 DC cables and preferred the copper tbh. Silver stripped the guts out of the music. I have the orange fuse as it's a couple of years old DC now. Can't say I've heard of Star Quad DC cables, but your comments have me interested. I won't be building any myself but I will look to see what's out there. Cheers Link to comment
JBL Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 I think the maximum benefits of the starquad DC cable are realized when utilizing all of these together-solid core wiring, heavy gauge wire 18+awg, teflon dieletric, and starquad geometry. The Farad DC cables are nice but built to their price point. The wire is stranded, lighter gauge, and no teflon dielectric. Not certain on the wire geometry. You may be able to custom order one from Ghent audio with all of the above elements. Their premade offerings are either twisted pair solid core or starquad with stranded wire. JBL Link to comment
Markus8 Posted October 18, 2022 Share Posted October 18, 2022 Does Ghent audio have a link on the website with this specification ? Link to comment
Popular Post Superdad Posted October 18, 2022 Popular Post Share Posted October 18, 2022 13 minutes ago, Markus8 said: Does Ghent audio have a link on the website with this specification ? Here you go: https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-j01.html And in a heavier gauge (4*18AWG versus 21AWG at Ghent), UpTone uses the same silver-plated, Teflon-insulated, shielded star-quad in our SAPPHIRE DC cables (presently always 1.5m long and always with 5.5mm x 2.5mm at the PS end--to go with our JS-2). The primary--and significant--benefit of star-quad topology for DC cables is that it lowers inductance. Second in importance is the dielectric, followed by the overall wire gauge. For DC cables the wire metallurgy (copper, silver, silver-plated-copper, etc.), stranding, and shielding all are much lesser factors. (Science and personal experience tell us this. YMMV ) Markus8 and kennyb123 2 UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
M_audio Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 6 hours ago, Superdad said: Here you go: https://www.ghentaudio.com/part/dc-j01.html And in a heavier gauge (4*18AWG versus 21AWG at Ghent), UpTone uses the same silver-plated, Teflon-insulated, shielded star-quad in our SAPPHIRE DC cables (presently always 1.5m long and always with 5.5mm x 2.5mm at the PS end--to go with our JS-2). The primary--and significant--benefit of star-quad topology for DC cables is that it lowers inductance. Second in importance is the dielectric, followed by the overall wire gauge. For DC cables the wire metallurgy (copper, silver, silver-plated-copper, etc.), stranding, and shielding all are much lesser factors. (Science and personal experience tell us this. YMMV ) Is it a copper cable with silver plating? I had Audio Sensibility silver cable, and it was too much of a good thing. Depends really what the rest of your system is. So i i am using for now Farad Level 2 copper cable. Macbook Pro 2015 > JCAT XE USB > Matrix X SPDIF3 > AyES > Mutec MC3+ > EC Designs PowerDAC B > Topping Pre90 > Wadia a102 > Cardas SE9 cables > John Blue JB3 speakers. All Clear cables Cardas IC, AyES, Beyond & XL Link to comment
Superdad Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 10 hours ago, M_audio said: Is it a copper cable with silver plating? Yes. When we state silver-plated, we imply silver-plate over copper. I mean I’ve never seen silver-plated aluminum wire. UpTone Audio LLC Link to comment
M_audio Posted October 19, 2022 Share Posted October 19, 2022 2 minutes ago, Superdad said: Yes. When we state silver-plated, we imply silver-plate over copper. I mean I’ve never seen silver-plated aluminum wire. Well with Chinese you never know what they sell..Web is full of Cardas cables from China that aint no Cardas.. Macbook Pro 2015 > JCAT XE USB > Matrix X SPDIF3 > AyES > Mutec MC3+ > EC Designs PowerDAC B > Topping Pre90 > Wadia a102 > Cardas SE9 cables > John Blue JB3 speakers. All Clear cables Cardas IC, AyES, Beyond & XL Link to comment
fmvinyl Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Hello - old topic but I will try anyway.... Received my Farad Super3 2 days ago with Purple fuse, L2 DC Copper and their AC power cord. The farad is powering Bluesound Node X into Creek Destiny Amp to Sonus Faber Vanere 2.0 speakers. So far, I have not heard anything too special yet, slight improvement but nothing drastic. I understand that there is a substantial burn in period, first 100 hours, and then full burn in after 400 - 500 hours. My question is, does music have to be playing for the burn in or will burn in happen just by having the Farad plugged in? Link to comment
kennyb123 Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 On 2/8/2024 at 9:51 AM, fmvinyl said: My question is, does music have to be playing for the burn in or will burn in happen just by having the Farad plugged in? No it doesn’t, but my experience with the Super3 (I’ve owned 3 of them) is that they sound great out of the box. The difference may be your fuse. Yeah just leaving it powered on will be sufficient. Digital: Sonore opticalModule > Uptone EtherRegen > Shunyata Sigma Ethernet > Antipodes K30 > Shunyata Omega USB > Gustard X26pro DAC < Mutec REF10 SE120 Amp & Speakers: Spectral DMA-150mk2 > Aerial 10T Foundation: Stillpoints Ultra, Shunyata Denali v1 and Typhon x1 power conditioners, Shunyata Delta v2 and QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation and Infinity power cords, QSA Lanedri Gamma Revelation XLR interconnect, Shunyata Sigma Ethernet, MIT Matrix HD 60 speaker cables, GIK bass traps, ASC Isothermal tube traps, Stillpoints Aperture panels, Quadraspire SVT rack, PGGB 256 Link to comment
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