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I did expect a change for the better when I ordered the Voltcraft FPS-1134 to power my router. I have suspected for some time that the AC mains noises was a affecting the SQ of the router. However, the extent of it really blew my mind!

I am more and more convinced that the galvanic isolation of the AC mains are the the key to success. Actually, another thing that proved this fact to me today was that when removing my FMCs from my main system today actually improved SQ on my secondary system (which is not galvanicly isolated from AC mains yet). Why? Most likely since I now have two less battery chargers connected. Next up for my secondary system will probably be to order this to my secondary system https://www.elfa.se/sv/isolationstransformator-200-va-230-vac-115-2x-vac-block-tim-200/p/15614532, wired as a balanced isolation transformer and connected to my active speakers to ensure galvanicly isolation with DC blocking abillities. [emoji4]

 

Cornan,

 

I think I am confused... maybe you can clarify something for me.

 

AFAIK, the Voltcraft FPS-1134 is a typical linear lab PSU with a transformer, rectifier diodes, filter caps, and an adjustable regulator. Is that correct?

 

If so, isn't its galvanic isolation just the same as any other linear supply. It is not like Vinnie Rossi's battery or Ultracap supplies or Uptone's LPS-1 or the SOTm battery supplies where the power source connected to the load is NOT connected to the AC line, correct?

 

Or am I missing something?

 

TIA!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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Cornan,

 

I think I am confused... maybe you can clarify something for me.

 

AFAIK, the Voltcraft FPS-1134 is a typical linear lab PSU with a transformer, rectifier diodes, filter caps, and an adjustable regulator. Is that correct?

 

If so, isn't its galvanic isolation just the same as any other linear supply. It is not like Vinnie Rossi's battery or Ultracap supplies or Uptone's LPS-1 or the SOTm battery supplies where the power source connected to the load is NOT connected to the AC line, correct?

 

Or am I missing something?

 

TIA!

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

Hi Greg,

 

The Voltcraft is a tech style linear regulated lab psu (ie. Safety class 1) with a fine-tuned voltage range between 11-14V. It is ofcourse connected to AC mains but the DC output is galvanicly isolated from the AC mains input. I have measured between the AC ground pin and the DC negative pin (black) and got nothing (continue-mode), which means that the galvanic isolation is very good. I wouldn't know how it competes with Ultracapacitor supply, but the advantage for the Voltcraft is the price point and Amperage.

Would be very interesting how it compares to for example VR Mini4EVR.

All I know is that it made a huge difference for my router! :)

 

Any other linear PSU is not properly galvanicly isolated AFAIK. Just the very good ones.

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Hi Greg,

 

The Voltcraft is a tech style linear regulated lab psu (ie. Safety class 1) with a fine-tunes voltage range between 11-14V. It is ofcourse connected to AC mains but the DC output is galvanicly isolated from the AC mains input. I have measured between the AC ground pin and the DC negative pin (black) and got nothing (continue-mode), which means that the galvanic isolation is very good. I wouldn't know how it competes with Ultracapacitor supply, but the advantage for the Voltcraft is the price point and Amperage.

Would be very interesting how it compares to for example VR Mini4EVR.

All I know is that it made a huge difference for my router! :)

 

Any other linear PSU is not properly galvanicly isolated AFAIK. Just the very good ones.

 

That last sentence seems to be an overly broad generalization, IMHO.

 

The only thing special on this linear is that the output is not connected to the AC ground. Which is common, but not universal. The galvanic isolation comes from the power transformer AND the lack of a connection from the outputs to the AC ground. I don't know how common or uncommon this is in lab supplies, but I've seen this in many DIY supplies.... virtually all of my DIY linear supplies are of this configuration.

 

Because it DOES have a galvanic CONNECTION to the AC line via the power transformer, it would not compare to the isolated output devices such as the VR Mini4EVR and his previous battery supplies, the Uptone LPS-1, and other devices where the output power source is not connected to the AC at all, including just powering a device from a battery. These devices break an inherent leakage path connection inherent in any AC-connected supply. AND while this provides them with explicit, specific benefits, it is not the only thing important in a supply... see Romaz's comments comparing his AC-connected Paul Hynes supply to an LPS-1.

 

I'm not saying that this is a bad supply or that what it does is not important or significant. I AM saying that I don't see anything special about it... on the contrary, in my experience, lab supplies are designed to be a safe, dependable, hard-to-damage source of DC, not audio-grade supplies. The parts they use are specified for these purposes, not necessarily for good audio quality. For example, all the lab supplies I've looked at have regulators not dissemilar from the ubiquitous LM317... fairly stable, hard to break, but barely acceptable performance for analog circuits and inadequate performance for digital circuits. Compare that to the LPS-1's TPS7A4700s, the Mini4EVR descrete regulators (I believe a Belleson variant), or Paul Hynes almost incomparible regulators.

 

I get that it makes a significant difference in the situations you've used it... and over most SMPS adapters, it should. But I'd be cautious labelling it as anything special.

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

P.S. When I say the Voltcraft is nothing special in the realm of galvanic isolation, the Linear Regulated DC Power Adapters I get from Jameco for $10-$20 when I'm lazy and don't want to build up a good linear supply (or for a situation where I don't need a good supply) have exactly that same characteristic.

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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That last sentence seems to be an overly broad generalization, IMHO.

 

The only thing special on this linear is that the output is not connected to the AC ground. Which is common, but not universal. The galvanic isolation comes from the power transformer AND the lack of a connection from the outputs to the AC ground. I don't know how common or uncommon this is in lab supplies, but I've seen this in many DIY supplies.... virtually all of my DIY linear supplies are of this configuration.

 

Because it DOES have a galvanic CONNECTION to the AC line via the power transformer, it would not compare to the isolated output devices such as the VR Mini4EVR and his previous battery supplies, the Uptone LPS-1, and other devices where the output power source is not connected to the AC at all, including just powering a device from a battery. These devices break an inherent leakage path connection inherent in any AC-connected supply. AND while this provides them with explicit, specific benefits, it is not the only thing important in a supply... see Romaz's comments comparing his AC-connected Paul Hynes supply to an LPS-1.

 

I'm not saying that this is a bad supply or that what it does is not important or significant. I AM saying that I don't see anything special about it... on the contrary, in my experience, lab supplies are designed to be a safe, dependable, hard-to-damage source of DC, not audio-grade supplies. The parts they use are specified for these purposes, not necessarily for good audio quality. For example, all the lab supplies I've looked at have regulators not dissemilar from the ubiquitous LM317... fairly stable, hard to break, but barely acceptable performance for analog circuits and inadequate performance for digital circuits. Compare that to the LPS-1's TPS7A4700s, the Mini4EVR descrete regulators (I believe a Belleson variant), or Paul Hynes almost incomparible regulators.

 

I get that it makes a significant difference in the situations you've used it... and over most SMPS adapters, it should. But I'd be cautious labelling it as anything special.

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

P.S. When I say the Voltcraft is nothing special in the realm of galvanic isolation, the Linear Regulated DC Power Adapters I get from Jameco for $10-$20 when I'm lazy and don't want to build up a good linear supply (or for a situation where I don't need a good supply) have exactly that same characteristic.

 

I have not said that it would compare to a LPS-1 or Paul Haynes psu. I would assume they are better. Voltcraft is a huge difference to the supplied SMPS. Sorry, but I have not implied anything else. Would still be interesting to compare it to a audiophile supply though, since I do think that the galvanic isolation is very important for the router. I would'nt expect the linear regulators to be anything special on the Voltcraft either, but that is not the point. The point is that it made a great improvement over SMPS for pocket money. Anyone can afford it!

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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I have not said that it would compare to a LPS-1 or Paul Haynes psu. I would assume they are better. Voltcraft is a huge difference to the supplied SMPS. Sorry, but I have not implied anything else. Would still be interesting to compare it to a audiophile supply though, since I do think that the galvanic isolation is very important for the router. I would'nt expect the linear regulators to be anything special on the Voltcraft either, but that is not the point. The point is that it made a great improvement over SMPS for pocket money. Anyone can afford it!

 

AND sorry too, I'm probably oversensitive... there was this other guy calling a uRendu a USB filter a few weeks back, got my hackles up. Understanding how things work (and I know I really know very little) is key to making things work.

 

My own experience is that linear supplies can work VERY well replacing garden-variety/consumer level SMPSs, we are in total agreement there. I know there are audio-quality SMPSs, heck the amps I'm currently using in both of my systems have them. And a lot of people like the iFi units and prefer them to some linear supplies. AND there's the Berning line of tube products, producing great sound with SMPSs since at least the mid-80s. SO they are out there.

 

AND thanks for the jog, at some point I'll try an LPS-1 on the network switches I use, though using an LPS-1 to power one of the FMCs I use in my systems was good, but not much better than a cellphone charger battery. I currently power those switches with what I'd consider a base-level audio-grade linear supply, maybe the LPS-1 will be a revelation.

 

Later!

 

Greg in Mississippi

Everything Matters!

2 systems... Well-Tempered Refs->ET-2.5->DIY or Lounge LCR MkII phono stages

Standalone digital Sony HAP Z1-ES or SDTrans384/Soekris DAM DAC

Networked digital Zotac PI320-W2 LMS Server -> EtherRegen -> USBBridge Sig -> Katana / Ian GB / Soerkis / Buffalo-IIIPro DACs

Passive S&B TX102 TVC or ladder attenuators -> BHK-250 -> Eminent Tech LFT-VIII / IV / VI

ALL gear modified / DIY'd; cables MIT;  all supplies DIY’d or LPS-1.2s w/HUGE Ultracaps; Audio gear on DIY AC filters + PS Aud P15s; misc gear on separate AC w/filters

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AND sorry too, I'm probably oversensitive... there was this other guy calling a uRendu a USB filter a few weeks back, got my hackles up. Understanding how things work (and I know I really know very little) is key to making things work.

 

Yes, he got my hackles up too. Nothing worse than an IT guy that doesn't know how a computer works!

Pareto Audio aka nuckleheadaudio

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AND sorry too, I'm probably oversensitive... there was this other guy calling a uRendu a USB filter a few weeks back, got my hackles up. Understanding how things work (and I know I really know very little) is key to making things work.

 

My own experience is that linear supplies can work VERY well replacing garden-variety/consumer level SMPSs, we are in total agreement there. I know there are audio-quality SMPSs, heck the amps I'm currently using in both of my systems have them. And a lot of people like the iFi units and prefer them to some linear supplies. AND there's the Berning line of tube products, producing great sound with SMPSs since at least the mid-80s. SO they are out there.

 

AND thanks for the jog, at some point I'll try an LPS-1 on the network switches I use, though using an LPS-1 to power one of the FMCs I use in my systems was good, but not much better than a cellphone charger battery. I currently power those switches with what I'd consider a base-level audio-grade linear supply, maybe the LPS-1 will be a revelation.

 

Later!

 

Greg in Mississippi

 

I understand, but I can assure you that I am just trying to help while having fun myself. I am not trying to misslead anyone. Just to report what I learn on the way. If you read through this thread you'll understand that this is a trial & error thread. Things that previously worked great suddenly change depending on other improvements in the chain. I think this is an important part of this thread. I recently thought that FMCs was great, but after a couple of changes in the setup (incl. the Voltcraft), I realized that it sounds better without them. Do this mean that I give up on FMCs? No, I will evaluate it again and would'nt be surprised if they will return at some point.

 

A great part of the fun with hifi for me personally is the constant learning process. Not necessarily the common knowledge, but learning by experimenting with your own ideas gained by own trials & errors and others peoples experiences.

 

I am all for battery power as you can see in my profile, but on the paths were battery supplies do not work or are not a convenient solution a galvanic isolated path (isolation transformers, galvanicly isolated PSU etc) is a good idea IMO.

 

Please do share your impressions with different power supplies for your network switches. I am planning to power my D-Link switch (5v/1A) that arrives tomorrow by a TP Link Vivid 6700mAh powerbank disconnected from ac mains. I will report back how that turns out plus a how it sounds with a couple of other experiments with different Ethernet cable solutions and adapters.

 

Micael

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Connected my TP Link RE450 wireless adapter to my Peaktech2240 isolation transformer tonight instead to the on/off power strip with all DC chargers. This have two advantages. I can now turn off the power strip when listening to music plus the RE450 (which is ac) is galvanicly isolated. Impressions? Wow! A great improvement with a pitch black background and clearer presentation. Big difference compared to the FMCs now! A much more realistic sound! Tomorrow I hope to see if the network switch on batteries will make it or brake it. Hard to see if it can be improved more than this right now...but I am too old in this hobby to never to say never! ?

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Connected my TP Link RE450 wireless adapter to my Peaktech2240 isolation transformer tonight instead to the on/off power strip with all DC chargers. This have two advantages. I can now turn off the power strip when listening to music plus the RE450 (which is ac) is galvanicly isolated. Impressions? Wow! A great improvement with a pitch black background and clearer presentation. Big difference compared to the FMCs now! A much more realistic sound! Tomorrow I hope to see if the network switch on batteries will make it or brake it. Hard to see if it can be improved more than this right now...but I am too old in this hobby to never to say never! [emoji3]

 

No no don't give up :)

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

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No no don't give up :)

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

*LOL* No, I am not giving up that easy! :D

I'll be back as soon as I have got the D-Link switch and new ethernet cables in house. Hopefully this evening.

 

I will also try to get together my wierd-science-style Vactrol VTL5C4-DIY 100Base-TX ethernet adapter this weekend and cross my fingers it will atleast work...and with a lot of luck it could even improve things by isolating the switch from the Aries Mini! :D

 

Stay tuned! ;)

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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@Cornan, I was looking for a 110v Voltcraft power supply like the one you got, but I can't seem to find anything. Do you know where I should check? Probably my search skills suck. I am in Canada btw

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Unfortunately it seems that Voltcraft FPS-1134 is not available with 110v input as you already noticed. This means that you will have to find another 13,8 VDC (with fine adjustments of the output voltage) linear regulated safety class 1 (galvanicly isolated) bench power supply. It is very difficult for me to find anything without knowing where to buy them when you live in Canada and which brands to trust (which I know about in EU), but If you get me a pointer to a couple of big companies with laberatorie equipments I can see what I can find. :)

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If things continue like this I might be running out of Wow! words!

 

Installed the D-Link network switch and my brand new Cat 6A U/UTP cables (30cm + 50cm) between the Aries Mini>switch and switch>TP Link RE450.

 

IMG_5781.JPG

 

IMG_5782.JPG

 

IMG_5783.JPG

 

Listening to familiar tracks and have a hard time to choose the right words for it. It is a really great improvement in my book. No doubt about it. Not to bore anyone with long descriptions what I heard I just put them down as they popped up inside my head:

 

* Dynamic depth

* The sound makes me feel calmer and more relaxed

* 3D placement & stereo placement improved

* Improved attack in the whole register

* Improved mid-range

* Joyful listening experience

 

As you might have noticed I am thrilled about the SQ that little battery powered switch delivered. Amazing really!! To be honest I am sure those Ethernet cables must have a part in the overall SQ as well. Too early to say with how much, but I will surely evaluate it when time for it is available.

Since last night when I added the RE450 to my tech IT until now my sound have jumped big time. I'll guess those FMCs will have to enjoy their new life inside my drawer, because I am not putting them back any day soon! ?

 

PS. Sorry for always succeeding to put the pictures side-ways! ? DS.

 

Also noticed that the deep bass notes have become *rounder* and not as *rumbly* on certain heavy bass tracks! ?

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Unfortunately it seems that Voltcraft FPS-1134 is not available with 110v input as you already noticed. This means that you will have to find another 13,8 VDC (with fine adjustments of the output voltage) linear regulated safety class 1 (galvanicly isolated) bench power supply. It is very difficult for me to find anything without knowing where to buy them when you live in Canada and which brands to trust (which I know about in EU), but If you get me a pointer to a couple of big companies with laberatorie equipments I can see what I can find. :)

 

Thanks Cornan, I will do some research about it and share what I find.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

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If things continue like this I might be running out of Wow! words!

 

Installed the D-Link network switch and my brand new Cat 6A U/UTP cables (30cm + 50cm) between the Aries Mini>switch and switch>TP Link RE450.

 

[ATTACH]33447[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]33448[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH]33449[/ATTACH]

 

Listening to familiar tracks and have a hard time to choose the right words for it. It is a really great improvement in my book. No doubt about it. Not to bore anyone with long descriptions what I heard I just put them down as they popped up inside my head:

 

* Dynamic depth

* The sound makes me feel calmer and more relaxed

* 3D placement & stereo placement improved

* Improved attack in the whole register

* Improved mid-range

* Joyful listening experience

 

As you might have noticed I am thrilled about the SQ that little battery powered switch delivered. Amazing really!! To be honest I am sure those Ethernet cables must have a part in the overall SQ as well. Too early to say with how much, but I will surely evaluate it when time for it is available.

Since last night when I added the RE450 to my tech IT until now my sound have jumped big time. I'll guess those FMCs will have to enjoy their new life inside my drawer, because I am not putting them back any day soon! [emoji3]

Very interesting findings @Cornan. I wonder if this battery powered switch would improve things over my wireless bridge (1 foot BJC cat6a + Accoustic revive RLI-1 ethernet isolator)

I guess I have to try to find out :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

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Very interesting findings @Cornan. I wonder if this battery powered switch would improve things over my wireless bridge (1 foot BJC cat6a + Accoustic revive RLI-1 ethernet isolator)

I guess I have to try to find out :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

The only way to find out is to try it. Fortunately it is a very cheap expense. If I count the TP Link Vivid, D-Link switch and both Ethernet cables it comes to whopping USD45 (roughly) all in all! ?

Highly recommended to try! ?

 

If you buy a switch make sure it have metal casing like my D-Link DGS-105.

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Well, switching today to a wireless network for my MicroRendu failed. Like I mentioned previously in this thread I already owned a Linksys wireless extender (RE2000) so today I finally got around to setting it up. I put it on its own 5ghz channel, all other devices in the house using the 2.4ghz. Also, ironically, my EMO EN-70HD arrived a day early in the mail, more on that in a minute.

After successfully setting up the Linksys wireless bridge in my living room system (modem, computer etc are on the 2nd floor) I sat down for a listen. Btw, I use a .5 meter Supra Cat8 STP between the wireless extender and the microrendu. My first impression of the "wireless" network versus the FMC/fiber network previously attached is that the wireless was slightly brighter, not in a bad way really. I generally like what i was hearing. I felt the background wasn't quite as 'dark' if you will as with the FMC's and fiber. Either way i was happy enough to keep listening.

I then inserted the EMO isolator into the chain, so...

Wireless bridge > .5m CAT8 > EMO > .5m CAT8 > mRendu

Maybe placebo, but the EMO isolator seemed to bring the 'dark/quietness' back while still retaining all the clarity. Even if it's a very small improvement I know the EMO is at least protecting the mRendu. As i listened to some familiar tracks, for kicks i switched inputs on my integrated amp back and forth between the mRendu and a Sonos Connect playing the same song, of course it was no contest. Is the EMO isolator worth $200 USD? The jury is still out, but really like that it DOES NOT need a power supply!

Fast forward to the next listening session (post dog walking), and my worst fear reared its ugly head, dropouts! Stuttering, stopping etc. Ugh! This is precisely the reason why I went with an all hard wired network years ago and never looked back. I generally have a strong network in my house so not sure what the problem was, but I don't care, i can't deal with one single dropout, so for now the wireless bridge is 'shelved'.

 

So rather than hooking back up the FMC/Fiber network, for now i'm using one of the ports on my Netgear GS105 switch that's been mounted in back of my console for some time now, feeding other devices like Apple TV, Sonos, Blu Ray etc.. This is not ideal but wanted a quick RELIABLE fix. The Netgear switch is connected by a length of 15 meters or so of BJC CAT6A cable running through the walls. Anyways, the sound is definitely different than the other two setups previously used. I'd say this is less bright, more laid back in general. I'm going to stick with it for a short time but plan on going back to some sort of wired iteration.

 

I'm thinking of trying the 'direct' connection method and network bridging mentioned in another thread, so using a direct connection between my MacMini and the microRendu. Again part of the challenge i have is the distance.

I will also try just a straight connection between the router, EMO and mRendu, so...Router > 15m CAT > EMO > .5m CAT > mRendu.

 

At some point I will be powering my router with a better LPSU or that Voltcraft unit or similar. I suppose i could do the same for the Netgear switch also but that won't be needed if i end up bypassing it ultimately.

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Thanks for sharing @marksas3! ?

 

Always interesting to know how it turns out in other setups. According to my personal experiances I think it is almost a waist powering a router/adapter/extender/switch by anything that is not galvanicly isolated from the ac mains. I really do think that it is the key to success. It is all about lowering the noise floor. EMO 70HD is definately something good, especially when you are using shielded Ethernet cables in the path. I also like that it is a passive device. It would be interesting to know what @moussaobeid finds out, since he have a (hopefully no-fuzz) wireless bridge and a Ethernet isolator in the path. When he will power his D-Link network switch with a batter pack he will not have a galvanicly isolated router and probably not a galvanicly isolated wireless bridge either (?) which both are very important IME. Non the less it will show how a galvanicly isolated switch (ie. battery with charger unconnected to ac mains) will affect the SQ with wired Ethernet path isolated. I can see options to use the Ethernet isolation between the switch and the Nimitra and between the wireless bridge and the switch. I like when there is option for interesting experiments! ?

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Well, switching today to a wireless network for my MicroRendu failed. Like I mentioned previously in this thread I already owned a Linksys wireless extender (RE2000) so today I finally got around to setting it up. I put it on its own 5ghz channel, all other devices in the house using the 2.4ghz. Also, ironically, my EMO EN-70HD arrived a day early in the mail, more on that in a minute.

After successfully setting up the Linksys wireless bridge in my living room system (modem, computer etc are on the 2nd floor) I sat down for a listen. Btw, I use a .5 meter Supra Cat8 STP between the wireless extender and the microrendu. My first impression of the "wireless" network versus the FMC/fiber network previously attached is that the wireless was slightly brighter, not in a bad way really. I generally like what i was hearing. I felt the background wasn't quite as 'dark' if you will as with the FMC's and fiber. Either way i was happy enough to keep listening.

I then inserted the EMO isolator into the chain, so...

Wireless bridge > .5m CAT8 > EMO > .5m CAT8 > mRendu

Maybe placebo, but the EMO isolator seemed to bring the 'dark/quietness' back while still retaining all the clarity. Even if it's a very small improvement I know the EMO is at least protecting the mRendu. As i listened to some familiar tracks, for kicks i switched inputs on my integrated amp back and forth between the mRendu and a Sonos Connect playing the same song, of course it was no contest. Is the EMO isolator worth $200 USD? The jury is still out, but really like that it DOES NOT need a power supply!

Fast forward to the next listening session (post dog walking), and my worst fear reared its ugly head, dropouts! Stuttering, stopping etc. Ugh! This is precisely the reason why I went with an all hard wired network years ago and never looked back. I generally have a strong network in my house so not sure what the problem was, but I don't care, i can't deal with one single dropout, so for now the wireless bridge is 'shelved'.

 

So rather than hooking back up the FMC/Fiber network, for now i'm using one of the ports on my Netgear GS105 switch that's been mounted in back of my console for some time now, feeding other devices like Apple TV, Sonos, Blu Ray etc.. This is not ideal but wanted a quick RELIABLE fix. The Netgear switch is connected by a length of 15 meters or so of BJC CAT6A cable running through the walls. Anyways, the sound is definitely different than the other two setups previously used. I'd say this is less bright, more laid back in general. I'm going to stick with it for a short time but plan on going back to some sort of wired iteration.

 

I'm thinking of trying the 'direct' connection method and network bridging mentioned in another thread, so using a direct connection between my MacMini and the microRendu. Again part of the challenge i have is the distance.

I will also try just a straight connection between the router, EMO and mRendu, so...Router > 15m CAT > EMO > .5m CAT > mRendu.

 

At some point I will be powering my router with a better LPSU or that Voltcraft unit or similar. I suppose i could do the same for the Netgear switch also but that won't be needed if i end up bypassing it ultimately.

Try placing the emo on the router side of the 15 meter cable run with the black side facing the microRendu.

Pareto Audio aka nuckleheadaudio

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