My (very) mini review of the Singxer SU-1 DDC

[elan120]

12 minutes ago, scan80269 said:

Yes, the NZ2520SD oscillator I installed into my SU-1 is one of these "sorted" units, as opposed to a random unit bought through retail.

 

 

8 hours ago, scan80269 said:

via intricate soldering.

 

Good job @scan80269!  This "intricate soldering" is really an understatement when the device dimension is 2.5mm x 2.0mm.  Did you made that carrier board?  I have been contemplating this mod since I saw your post, but a little discouraged about making a carrier board.  So if you feel the result is worth the effort, I will give it a try and make the board.

[scan80269]

9 hours ago, elan120 said:

 

Good job @scan80269!  This "intricate soldering" is really an understatement when the device dimension is 2.5mm x 2.0mm.  Did you made that carrier board?  I have been contemplating this mod since I saw your post, but a little discouraged about making a carrier board.  So if you feel the result is worth the effort, I will give it a try and make the board.

The carrier board was cannibalized from a Kyocera crystal oscillator:  KC7050K22.5792C10E00.  The oscillator can on this part is 2.0mm x 1.6mm, but the NDK oscillator is 2.5mm x 2.0mm, and the pads on the carrier are tiny and somewhat out of position for the NDK, so I had to solder four 32AWG wires in an X pattern on top of the carrier to complete the connections to the NDK.  I posted a pic of this work within this thread on April 28.

 

I agree that "intricate soldering" is an understatement.  I've only done the 22.5792MHz oscillator replacement.  I don't know if I can successfully repeat this for the 24.576MHz oscillator sitting nearby.

 

 

[elan120]

10 minutes ago, scan80269 said:

The carrier board was cannibalized from a Kyocera crystal oscillator:  KC7050K22.5792C10E00.  The oscillator can on this part is 2.0mm x 1.6mm, but the NDK oscillator is 2.5mm x 2.0mm, and the pads on the carrier are tiny and somewhat out of position for the NDK, so I had to solder four 32AWG wires in an X pattern on top of the carrier to complete the connections to the NDK.  I posted a pic of this work within this thread on April 28.

 

I agree that "intricate soldering" is an understatement.  I've only done the 22.5792MHz oscillator replacement.  I don't know if I can successfully repeat this for the 24.576MHz oscillator sitting nearby.

 

 

Thank you @scan80269 for the insight on this carrier board.  I will try to put in some work in the next couple weeks to see if I can make one, and will let you know if that turned out to be successful.  This seems to be a rewarding project assuming oscillator change ended with positive improvement.

[Energy]

Hello peps.

 

I'm back! I apologize for being missing in action. Had a nasty breakup but now it's all fixed. 

 

Here's an update on my SU-1 venture.

• I've noticed that some of the soldered pins on the HDMI output was lacking solder during the creation process and so I reflowed each pin with some 5% silver solder.
• I replaced the output capacitor and the one near the FPGA with Panasonic FR 180µF 35V (56mΩ).
• I replaced the input capacitor with Nichicon R7 220µF 6.3V for better ripple current rating and lower ESR to hold up voltages better.
• I removed the four MLCC ceramic capacitor to improve the transient response of the regulator.
• I drilled a 5/17" hole for the Switchcraft DC Input connector.
• I created an internal cable made using Canare 4S6.
• I created a short DC cable for the LPS-1 to connect to the SU-1 using Canare 4S6 and Switchcraft DC Plugs. The metal housing is sourced from Neutrik Rean 3.5mm plugs. Why spend extra money on Oyaide?
• The front panels LED's are now RED.

 

- Now I can interchange from the LPS-1 to the stock power supply and back whenever I choose to.

 

Here are some photos. Enjoy.

 

Capacitor placement

 

I removed the four MLCC's

 

DC Input placement

 

Disassembling the Switchcraft DC Input connector prior to installation

 

Picking out the appropriate drill bit size

 

Creating an indent for the larger drill bit by using a smaller drill bit

 

Drilling with a 5/17" drill bit (recommended)

 

Hole created for the DC Input Connector

 

Perfect fit for the connector.

 

Testing how stable the plug is when it's connected

 

Cutting out the dust cap from the oversized ring

 

Excess is removed

 

Now if I ever sell my SU-1 it won't look bad from the back showing an exposed DC Input

 

Making an internal DC power cable using Canare 4S6

 

Making the cable modular so will be possible to switch between various power sources

 

Heatshrinking the corners and soldered areas to prevent straining on the joints

 

Completed cable and unit powers on fine

 

Made a short external DC power cable for the LPS-1 to power the SU-1

 

Red LED's instead of the stock blue

 

EXTRA PHOTO:

Look how badly the stock power wires were soldered.. 

 

P.S.

I am looking for (2) rhodium plated RCA cover caps. I have a gold plated XLR female cover caps I am willing to trade for it. It works fine for the back of the SU-1. I actually have two so if anyone wants one and wants to trade, hit me up .

 

Cheers,

Thanh

[ted_b]

Energy,

I gotta assume you did all this for some musical purpose.  Does the SU-1/your system sound any better/worse?

[Energy]

21 minutes ago, ted_b said:

Energy,

I gotta assume you did all this for some musical purpose.  Does the SU-1/your system sound any better/worse?

 

I share very similar beliefs with everyone else who has done modifications to their own units.

 

The biggest improvement is from powering the SU-1 with the LPS-1 for lower noise and to fully stop AC leakage currents from going into the DAC. The second major improvement is the replacing the stock regulator with a discrete version as this regulator powers the majority of components on the clocking side of the SU-1. Having a better performing one results in cleaner power which lead to more than subtle sonic improvements. The removal of the MLCC (ceramic capacitors) and changing the electrolytic capacitors are just other paths mainly to optimize this regulator.

 

The DC Input is just for sheer convenience and who knows whether or not the power cable improved anything. For me I'm not a big power cables making much of a difference so no comment there (unless it's gauge is small and is limiting the current).

 

I think I've seen one of your reviews on the Holo Audio Spring so I'm sure you have a lot of knowledge when it comes to this hobby. If you have not tried these modifications and only the KitsuneHiFi version then I can assure you that you're in for a treat. If you don't believe me I can send you my own personal unit if you want to do a week exchange. I don't listen to music too much nowadays so it won't hurt.

[ted_b]

Energy,

Thanks for the offer.  I have the dc kit and will install it this weekend, making it possible to compare my Kitusne-modded SU-1 to a mostly-unmodded (since Tim's mods are mostly internal ps related) SU-1 powered by the LPS-1.  Sam has offered to do his mod so I may try that too, later on.

 

Thx again.

[Energy]

@ted_b

No problem 

If you like it I have a good feeling you'll eventually go down the path of this regulator mod. It really does improve the sound quality almost like the improvement you hear switching from a stock SU-1 to the one that is powered by the LPS-1 (maybe 60%).

 

-------

Update #2

• I replaced the output capacitor with Panasonic FR 100µF 50V (61mΩ) for better transient response and the one near the FPGA with Panasonic FR 330µF 25V (56mΩ) for bulk capacitance as to @scan80269 recommendation. It makes sense to me now after further research on regulator design and contacting Andrew from Sparko's Labs directly.

[drmike]

hey tim,

where can those two panasonic caps be bought?

can you point out which ones those are?

thanks,

drmike

ps: enjoying the modded so-1

[drmike]

are they the 2 black ones in the above picture?

thanks,

drmike

[Energy]

Hey Mike.

 

Yes. They are the two black capacitors located in the above photos. The one sitting next to the input capacitor is where you should replace with Panasonic FR 100µF 50V (61mΩ) whereas the one next to the center of the board (near the FPGA chip) should be Panasonic FR 330µF 25V (56mΩ). You have to make sure the capacitance value and voltage rating is exact otherwise they won't be at the correct impedance (ESR) needed to yield improvements. The rest of the capacitors as seen with red color above them are Nichicon R7 220µF 6.3V (7mΩ). These have better ripple current rejection, lower resistance, and less leakage current which works better at those positions opposed to traditional electrolytic capacitors.

 

I also recommend removing the four MLCC ceramic capacitors to yield further benefits for the regulator. It's a simple process. Just use a corner nail clipper, line the tip horizontally, and cut it off. Later apply solder and remove the leftover remains from the ceramic capacitor that was broken off. Clipping these off won't damage the soldering pad beneath the capacitor because the ceramic material will break long before it puts any strain on the pad.

 

Here is the tool:

It can be had for $5 or below, but I'm sure even a regular nail clipper would work to be honest.

 

This is what you want to remove:

 

The Panasonic FR capacitors can be bought from Mouser or DigiKey. If you live outside of the United States then you can purchase them on eBay instead. Try and source them from a single seller to save yourself money on shipping.

[Forehaven]

Tim, any big improvement by adding that 180uF over the 300?

[Energy]

EXPLANATION

In regards to using 100µF or 330µF, here is how that works. Higher capacitance values of an output capacitor reduces the transient response spike amplitude, but elongate the recovery and settling time. Lower values have higher spikes, but they settle more quickly.

 

That transient response test is a total worse case scenario. Its a minimal load to maximum load step in a couple of microseconds. Real world audio circuits do not present this drastic of a load step in that short amount of time. Its a common test for regulators, but a very uncommon load condition for real world applications.

 

The 100µF is the "happy medium" if you will. In reality, one can choose to not use an external output capacitor (and rely soly on the one that is affixed to the regulator) or use one that goes all the way up to 100's of µF's. The larger the capacitance, the slower the regulator will respond, but the less it will flinch under load.

 

You can see the spike here and how quickly it goes back to being horizontally flat. Using a capacitor with higher capacitance will create a smaller spike but recovering from that spike takes longer since the spike becomes wider (due to it taking longer to respond).

 

 

This is how it works from an engineering perspective. Sonically it may be worth experimenting with. Its difficult to know how the engineering performance translates into sound quality improvements as it depends on several unknown factors like what you system is, how the regulator is loaded, etc.

 

When it comes to digital components, but more specifically clock circuits that use crystal oscillators. I find response time important which is why I ended up going with the Panasonic FR 100µF 50V (61mΩ) capacitor that Sparkos Labs suggests. The Panasonic FR 330µF 25V (56mΩ) is put further away and is used mainly as a bulk capacitance for the FPGA. 

 

Since the original capacitance was 220µF (output capacitor) + 220µF (FPGA capacitor) = 440µF (total).

I figured after using a 100µF capacitor to improve the transient response, that adding a 330µF near the FPGA was a good idea to reach 430µF of total capactiance for the output end which is really close to default values. I could have gone with two 220µF's (which I did before), but again, having a 220µF as the output capacitor near the regulator is not the most optimal.

 

As stated earlier, this theoretically improves the regulator, but hearing an improvement may be difficult as it would be less than subtle. The main improvements I have heard so far after adding in this discrete regulator is mainly from the the 3.2µV noise improvement compared to the stock 100µV. I am certain however that the overall sound quality has been improved after the removal of the four MLCC ceramic capacitors in addition to using the recommended 100µF capacitor.

[ted_b]

12 hours ago, Energy said:

@ted_b

No problem 

If you like it I have a good feeling you'll eventually go down the path of this regulator mod. It really does improve the sound quality almost like the improvement you hear switching from a stock SU-1 to the one that is powered by the LPS-1 (maybe 60%).

Energy, realize that my SU-1 is no longer stock, even though it's using the internal ps (until i do the kit change).  Tim's KTE mod replaces caps and the internal ps regulator FWIW.   But those changes are likely moot when I go dc-kit-and-LPS1.

[Energy]

6 hours ago, ted_b said:

Energy, realize that my SU-1 is no longer stock, even though it's using the internal ps (until i do the kit change).  Tim's KTE mod replaces caps and the internal ps regulator FWIW.   But those changes are likely moot when I go dc-kit-and-LPS1.

 

Shouldn't be any noticeable differences compared to a stock populated board as the capacitors aren't far apart.

 

I wonder why Kitsune would use Nichicon FG (Fine Gold) in a power or digital circuit as those capacitors are designed for analog. The stock Panasonic FC's would have been better for these purposes.

 

Panasonic FR > FM > FC

 

Also the rated 3.2µV he states for the product is untrue as these are measurements for 3.3V output and the application he uses it for he 5V. Just saying.

 

Anyways Ted I'm sure you'll be pleasantly surprised when you listen to the SU-1 powered by the LPS-1. The improvement in noise floor and removal of AC leakage current together is quite astonishing. With this, I'm sure it will eventually help you take the plunge into upgrading the internal regulator of your unit after realizing how important clean power is for signal reclocking.

[electrafixion]

Thanks for your posts Energy, I've been watching with great interest.

 

2 hours ago, Energy said:

Shouldn't be any noticeable differences compared to a stock populated board as the capacitors aren't far apart.

 

I wonder why Kitsune would use Nichicon FG (Fine Gold) in a power or digital circuit as those capacitors are designed for analog. The stock Panasonic FC's would have been better for these purposes.

 

Panasonic FR > FM > FC

 

I've actually been wondering if Panasonic FR are the best choice for the Singxer power supply since it is linear, and they are designed for switching power supplies:

"Panasonic is introducing the FR-Series, new Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitors in Radial Construction. This capacitor is the perfect solution for applications, which require ultra low ESR - very high ripple current - very long life in a small mounting form.

 

Application examples

Switching mode Power Supply:
Switching mode Adapter
line noise removal
LCD backlight
LED applications
Applications with long lifetime requirements"

 

In contrast Nichicon FG is designed for audio grade applications (I don't believe the specify digital vs analog):

"The UFG Series, "Fine Gold" MUSE acoustic series suited for high grade audio equipment, using state of the art etching techniques. Rich sound in the bass register and clearer high end, most suited for AV equipment like DVD."

 

[nick77]

Quote

I also recommend removing the four MLCC ceramic capacitors to yield further benefits for the regulator. It's a simple process. Just use a corner nail clipper, line the tip horizontally, and cut it off. Later apply solder and remove the leftover remains from the ceramic capacitor that was broken off. Clipping these off won't damage the soldering pad beneath the capacitor because the ceramic material will break long before it puts any strain on the pad.

Quote

 

@Energy.  I just removed the MLCC caps using my wifes nail clippers and worked perfectly.  I didnt even feel the need to clean up the pads, the caps just kinda shattered and disappeared. Hopefully the wife wont notice I stole her clippers. haha   Thank you!

Results, reached another level of resolution. Just kidding..........

[Energy]

11 hours ago, electrafixion said:

Thanks for your posts Energy, I've been watching with great interest.

 

I've actually been wondering if Panasonic FR are the best choice for the Singxer power supply since it is linear, and they are designed for switching power supplies:

"Panasonic is introducing the FR-Series, new Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitors in Radial Construction. This capacitor is the perfect solution for applications, which require ultra low ESR - very high ripple current - very long life in a small mounting form.

 

Application examples

Switching mode Power Supply:
Switching mode Adapter
line noise removal
LCD backlight
LED applications
Applications with long lifetime requirements"

 

In contrast Nichicon FG is designed for audio grade applications (I don't believe the specify digital vs analog):

"The UFG Series, "Fine Gold" MUSE acoustic series suited for high grade audio equipment, using state of the art etching techniques. Rich sound in the bass register and clearer high end, most suited for AV equipment like DVD."

 

 

Eh. Applications examples are just examples. What it really boils down to is its ESR (impedance), ESL (inductance), ripple current, leakage current, and material composition.

 

There are great variations between capacitors out there (film, electrolytic, solid polymer, ceramic, etc). What I'll address are the ones that are better behaved in either a digital or an analog circuit. To be more specific, we are speaking on electrolytic capacitors in the form of a liquid (Panasonic FR) or a solid polymer (Nichicon R7). 

 

The thing with electrolytic capacitors is that if you replace one with another of the same capacitance and voltage rating then it should work. The general consensus is that they follow a standard that makes them an "electrolytic" and thus they work. Not optimally in some cases, but they work.

 

There are companies out there that make these capacitors in varying specifications. They are created to be tailored for a specific job or placement in a particular circuit. This positioning on what capacitor is needed depends on the engineer. Even now audiophiles have begun to pick what they want to put in their circuit with little knowledge thinking a well known capacitor is best anywhere it goes.

 

The way I see electrolytic capacitors is by four different labels (yours may differ).

1. General Purpose (let's say 100-150mΩ ESR, 4000 hours lifespan at 85C).

3. High Temperature (let's say 100-150mΩ ESR, 4000 hours lifespan at 130C).

2. Low ESR / Long Life (lets say 30-120mΩ ESR, 6000-8000 hours lifespan at 105C)

4. Boutique or Audiophile (usually measures as well as general purpose [or worse] but has better material composition that is suppose to be optimized for audio).

 

*Usually Low ESR comes with Long Life (but not always)

 

Now comes real world application. A good correlating example is the Sparkos Labs discrete voltage regulator that everyone seems to be using to replace the stock LD1086 within the Singxer SU-1. The engineer who designed this regulator could have used any capacitor, but after careful consideration he picked the Panasonic FR as the output capacitor. The 65mΩ ESR (impedance/resistance) alongside the capacitative load of 100µF gave his regulator the best performance results. The engineer could have picked a higher voltage rating to lower the ESR or a use a lower voltage rating to increase the ESR, but he didn't. He could have also gone with a general purpose to increase the ESR, but again, it wasn't optimal for his design.

 

The point I'm stating is that if all electrolytic capacitors worked the same there wouldn't be the need for these companies to make so many different caps for different purposes. Digital circuits are more sensitive to fluctuations than with analog which is why when you look at computer motherboards nowadays, they use solid polymer capacitors because it has better ripple current ratings which extends the life of their capacitors. These capacitors also have at least a 105C temperature rating as well being ultra low ESR, sometimes more than a 1/5 lower than traditional electrolytic caps made of liquid electrolyte. This lower ESR helps to provide less resistance for when immediate power/voltage is called forth by the processor, chipset, components, etc. 

 

This rule or tailoring can be applied to the Singxer SU-1 or another digital circuit. Outside of using the Panasonic FR for the discrete voltage regulator, there are other benefits of having a low or ultra low ESR capacitor with long life. The first being the long life. You no longer have to worry about your capacitors dying on you as much. The second is that the low ESR helps with the circuit whenever it draws electricity by reducing the resistance that the capacitor naturally contains.

 

A good analogy for this is like why people go through such great lengths to buy aftermarket cables or make themselves one. It is because it usually is comprised of OCC, more wires, thicker wires, or better materials. It lowers the impedance of the cable and so called brings forth the phenomenon of "skin effect" by giving electrons more usable surface to transmit through. Now something comparable can be said about a solid polymer capacitors like the Nichicon R7. Being ultra low ESR is like a using a wire with higher conductivity. It lets the signal through more easily does it not? The same can be said about electricity or how quickly the capacitor can discharge. The ripple current of the capacitor is like the insulation of a wire and how well it sustains long term use. By now you can kind of tell why using an audiophile capacitor in a digital circuit isn't very "optimal". It's higher resistance doesn't let it respond as fast, it's ripple current isn't the best, it leaks out more current, and it doesn't have that long of a life span. The benefit of an audiophile capacitor is in analog circuitry where it's material composition offers a form of dampening to the electrical wave in a way for it to sound more smooth or proper (not sure which word to use). A good example is the highly regarded Elna Silmic II. It has internal silk fibers as the dielectric. Like how some film capacitors are made of insulating materials like polyester, polypropylene, teflon, oil impregnated, or how it's metal composition can be silver, copper, or gold. The general thumb is that people swear they hear a difference and thus why it became a popular market. Same thing regarding wires that have different insulation (polyethylene, PVC, etc). It may be small, it may be placebo, but you can't argue people when they say they hear something. This is why certain capacitors start to become popularized over time and people start to assume something that sounds good should sound good anywhere, but realistically once these capacitors are applied in a digital circuit, it will work, but it won't be optimal. It might even end up projecting an end result that is worse than a general purpose capacitor even.

 

In conclusion, this is why the Panasonic FR 100µF 50V was used as the output capacitor for the regulator. This is why the Panasonic FR 330µF 25V was used as a bulk capacitative storage capacitor for the FPGA. This is why Nichicon R7 220µF 6.3V was used as the input capacitor as it held up voltages better due to it's 3-4 times better ripple current rating as well as it's ultra low ESR which offered less resistance to the incoming voltage. This is also why Nichicon R7 was used to populate the rest of the board on the Singxer SU-1.

 

• It offered the electrical response needed (faster discharge)
• They have a longer life span
• It's ripple current rating is 3-4x better
• At 6.3V voltage rating, it offered excellent leakage current rating. Nichicon R5's has slightly less ESR (5mΩ versus 7mΩ) which is good, but it had significantly higher leakage currents in all available voltage ratings which is bad. This is why the R7's were chosen. Because digital circuits are sensitive so the less leakage coming out the better.

 

Eh... It's almost 7AM and I haven't slept so most of the things I wrote are blank statements so take them with a grain of salt. 

 

2 hours ago, nick77 said:

@Energy.  I just removed the MLCC caps using my wifes nail clippers and worked perfectly.  I didnt even feel the need to clean up the pads, the caps just kinda shattered and disappeared. Hopefully the wife wont notice I stole her clippers. haha   Thank you!

Results, reached another level of resolution. Just kidding..........

 

You have reached the summit of Mt. Everest. 

 

Haha. Leaving the leftover residue is perfectly okay as this won't influence anything (other than your eyes). I however couldn't leave mine there as I have this OCD issue (i'm working on it..).

Don't you just love the improvements? I hear extra air moving back and forth and I see a better image without seeing the actual image (sarcasm applied). But really. I'm sure there's something in there in terms of sonic benefits but it's probably so small that I think it's better to combine all of these modifications to really draw a conclusion on just how well the regulator improves the sound quality when it functions at it's best (when the recommended output capacitor is used).

[electrafixion]

Energy, I'm not asking about the caps on the digital board.  I think it's a given that solid polymer caps are the best choice there, except where a specific higher ESR is required. 

 

What I don't understand is why Panasonic FR would be preferable to Nichicon FG in the power supply.  

[Energy]

56 minutes ago, electrafixion said:

Energy, I'm not asking about the caps on the digital board.  I think it's a given that solid polymer caps are the best choice there, except where a specific higher ESR is required. 

 

What I don't understand is why Panasonic FR would be preferable to Nichicon FG in the power supply.  

Read more  

 

Panasonic FR works well for both digital and power circuits. 

 

Power is in form of electricity and if a capacitor is able to be less resistive (ESR) in that, then it is an ideal choice. FR's are rated at 105C which works well in audio power circuits in the case that things get toasty. Their compact size yet high capacitative storage is ideal, and more importantly it's ripple current is rated well above any other brand and model.

 

Capacitors like Nichicon FG and pretty much all other "audiophile" capacitors have very limited listed specification because in a way they measure poorly due to material composition being the main focus. Alongside that, their leads are also often times made of oxygen free copper to improve conductivity to so called "bring out the sound"..

 

Nichicon FG - Datasheet

 

If there's anyone who uses Panasonic FR in power or digital circuits that says it sounds too sharp or dry then I would say that it's due to the capacitors precisely doing it's job and the issues you hear is from it getting out of the way and showing you whatever weakness that's in your upstream gear. Either that or because it is used in an analog circut in which low ESR (speed) may make the sound too sharp giving it a "digital" sound signature that is less lifelike. Having said that, we all want something that exudes realism thus why I personally use Elna Silmic II wherever possible in my analog circuits (headphone amp, power amp, output stages, etc) to soften, make it more fluid, and bring further warmth to the sound.

 

If one was to feel really inclined to use Nichicon FG (for reasons that are beyond me), then why not get the best audiophile capacitor from Nichicon and go for the KZ?

 

EXACTLY!

 

Correlating back to my long response I wrote earlier. Because someone somewhere read that the FG is popular (or they have listened to it themselves in an analog circuit) and thus thinks it should sound good anywhere. It becomes a preferred capacitor and preferences are hard to persuade out of so..

 

But wait? Why not the KZ's even though they are better. Why? Less recognition. Because the FG's came out way before the KZ's did. This is also why some people back then used Panasonic FC's over FM's and FM's over FR's or FC's and FM's over FR's. Because the FR's (which is a better revision) came out later on and people were content with their preferred capacitor.

 

 

 

[FIndingit]

23 minutes ago, Energy said:

 

 

If there's anyone who uses Panasonic FR in power or digital circuits that says it sounds too sharp or dry then I would say it's mainly because the capacitors are precise in doing it's job and the sibilance you hear is mainly from it getting out of the way and showing you the weakness of your gear or upstream components. Kinda of like getting a $5,000 headphone and realizing how sensitive it can pick up changes in your system when changing out little things.

 

That's me. My tweaked Su-1 + Wireworld hdmi + Holo Spring  sound a lot more digital and unpleasant than my 2qute they replaced. I'm not happy. I might just as well remove those FR's.

[Energy]

The only reason why FR's are getting more well known now because by now it's been out for some time. It does a darn good job and people are finally able to understand how to decipher capacitor specifications and are slowly starting to understand that some capacitors are made for certains purposes. 

 

17 minutes ago, FIndingit said:

That's me. My tweaked Su-1 + Wireworld hdmi + Holo Spring  sound a lot more digital and unpleasant than my 2qute they replaced. I'm not happy. I might just as well remove those FR's.

 

It's not the FR's fault. Something else in your system is producing the sibilance that you hear. Are you using a solid state amplifier? What headphones?

[Tuy Hoang]

On 5/15/2017 at 3:42 AM, Energy said:

 

 

 

And if you're going to do this, I say go even further and change the two electrolytic capacitors near the SS1117XX from your previous mod with Panasonic FR 330µF (or preferably 220µF if available) in either 25V or 35V. 

Hi Energy,

I went to Mouser website and I found Panasonic FR 220µF in 35 V, is it the one you mentioned on above quote?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V221/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22XUCPl5kZCD9TROAO5%2f3zRc%3d

Thank you

Tuy Hoang

[Energy]

1 minute ago, Tuy Hoang said:

I went to Mouser website and I found Panasonic FR 220µF in 35 V, is it the one you mentioned on above quote? http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/EEU-FR1V221/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22XUCPl5kZCD9TROAO5%2f3zRc%3d

 

The capacitors have been revised.

You want (1) Panasonic FR 100µF 50V and (1) Panasonic FR 330µF 25V. 

The other (3) are Nichicon R7 220µF 6.3V.

 

Make sure to buy lead spacing of 3.5mm instead of 5.0mm.

[Dev]

Has anyone found it useful to add a ISO Regen or a SoTm tx-usb in front of the SU-1 ? I am wondering if it would bring anything useful to the table.