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Overall Isolation - network, USB, and power


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I have the intona with my Brooklyn. ..Mine is a mobile phone transport not a pc but..the intona is a winner. I just bought the Idefender so that does a similar thing. I feed 5v battery pre intona via the Idefender just last night. Seems ok from my home made splitter of battery 5v.

but my Mr speakers are shipping today for an upgrade...3 weeks min +200 hours re burn in when they come back....So a far comparison is not until near xmas....... Sorry bad timing...

I will try a mod GND lift as well as IFI'S iso tech with the defender....

I have a ifi ipurifier 2 pre intona as well..it was what I had...[emoji4]

 

Intona + Mytek =yes. I did a aluminium case for it like the jcat-usb-isolator... It did improve SQ with rfi protection....

 

I did think of using deoxit gold as a lube for the dip switches......

 

Good luck

Dave

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

What does the iDefender do? Is it a battery power supply like the LPS-1?

Does the intona go before a W4S RUR if using both within chain?

Are there any other devices similar to the intona that are lower in price point?

Does the intona (like the RUR) require an LPSU for best performance?

Thanks!

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Would a battery supply essentially deliver same / similar results as an LPS-1 for the RUR?

 

Good question. I have an LPS-1 coming, but I've not got a battery supply to try in the interim.

 

I know for the mRendu, people reported further improvements over battery with the LPS-1, theorizing that the low output impedance could be a factor. See:

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f27-uptone-audio-sponsored/ultracap%99-linear-power-supply-1-listening-impressions-thread-30172/#post592005

 

I haven't searched for RUR experiences. Let us know if you find any reports!

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Just to give an update to the thread and initial impressions

after the recent updates / changes I've made based on advice from this thread:

inserted 3 Network Isolators (similar to the Baaske).

1 between cable modem and wireless router/ built in 8 port switch

1 after router / switch before Aurender N100H

1 after router / switch before desktop computer on same network (used to rip CD's to load to Aurender and to manage Aurender HD content/ tags, etc).

I also swapped out all Cables to go Cat 7 cables with all new BjueJeans Cat 6a cable.

Also, I removed W4S RUR being powered by second rail of HDPlex LPSU (first rail powering Mytek DAC).

I then A / B W4S RUR using supplied SMPS and Jitterbug in and out in all combinations too.

Also A/B all combinations with Curious Cable full loom/ Cardas Highsped USB (1 and 2 of them wth and without RUR) and last Cardas before RUR Curious Link after.

My initial impressions / results:

1. I honestly cannot say that I hear any real difference with the 3 network Isolators and the all new Bluejeans Cat6a cables inserted, but definitely not any worse/ any negative, so I will leave them all in place, I'm sure it's better to have them overall even if I don't notice much difference?

2. All combinations tried, definitely all sound noticeably better with Jitterbug out of Aurender before USB to RUR or Mytek DAC.

3. Definitely better with RUR in place and with stock SMPS than with RUR sharing HDPlex and without RUR in chain.

4. Very big noticeable difference (for the better) with 2 Cardas Highspeed USB (before and after RUR vs Curious full loom or Curious link after RUR.

Conclusions:

-Network Isolators and Bluejeans cables staying in chain.

-RUR and Jitterbug and 2 Cardas Highspeed USB staying in chain.

-I need to obviously need to buy an LPS-1 or other LPSU for the RUR ASAP! No question it will be much better than supplied SMPS!

- Perhaps also purchase an Intona after purchase LPS-1 (budgeting out and doing this in steps)

- I did also purchase a Jensen RG-6 Cable TV ground loop and galvanic isolator that I will insert after wall before splitter or after splitter before cable box.

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Good question. I have an LPS-1 coming, but I've not got a battery supply to try in the interim.

 

I know for the mRendu, people reported further improvements over battery with the LPS-1, theorizing that the low output impedance could be a factor. See:

 

http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f27-uptone-audio-sponsored/ultracap%99-linear-power-supply-1-listening-impressions-thread-30172/#post592005

 

I haven't searched for RUR experiences. Let us know if you find any reports!

The consensus has definitely been (via computer audiophile members ), that the LPS-1 is a significant improvement vs other LPSU, Batteries, and obviously SMPS.

I guess it's time to bite the billet and order one before December orders are sold out!

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I just bought a similar one of these made by Jensen, two questions:

are you using a male to female adapter with this to connect it?

Do you have this after splitter and before cable modem? Do you have a cable TV box also? I have line into house, that splits into cabkenmidem and cablen box, I'm not sure if this should go before or after the splitter and if after splitter if it should go in cable box or modem leg??

thanks !

I do not know if this was a question for me...but you should get a F-connector male to male like this one https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-gold-series-male-to-male-f-connector-adapter?variant=20332023173 and plug it into your router input followed by the SAT cable from your service provider or your hifi grade dito that plugs into the wall.

 

2780275_00_2048x2048_crop_center.progressive.jpg?v=1478050951

 

I hope that helps! :)

 

/Micael

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Would a battery supply essentially deliver same / similar results as an LPS-1 for the RUR?

 

I have battery lifepo4 supply and no lps1...

 

Lifepo4 123 batteries are 0,006 ohm output impedance

 

http://www.a123systems.com/Collateral/Documents/English-US/A123%20Systems%20ANR26650%20Data%20Sheet.pdf

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

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There are two or three post on the forum reporting a SQ improvement with intona shielding.

 

I ask to Daniel from intona and here is the reply :

 

Shielding has no benefit because every trace on the isolator board is an impedance controlled microstrip. You can think of a sort of coax cable about those microstrips. Distance and electrical isolation is the way to go. This is why we use ABS plastic with lots of clearance between the enclosure and the PCB. Any badly connected shielding may act as an antenna. You shouldn't do that unless you really know what you are doing an can prove this in an EMI measument.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

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What does the iDefender do? Is it a battery power supply like the LPS-1?

Does the intona go before a W4S RUR if using both within chain?

Are there any other devices similar to the intona that are lower in price point?

Does the intona (like the RUR) require an LPSU for best performance?

Thanks!

Idefender allows a simple way to apply cleaner 5v and a GND lift / ground loop via their ISO tech. No battery but I will attach a 20000mah battery. via the mini port.... Don't know about the RUR but I am sure someone has mixed them.....

 

http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-idefender3-0/

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

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There are two or three post on the forum reporting a SQ improvement with intona shielding.

 

I ask to Daniel from intona and here is the reply :

 

Shielding has no benefit because every trace on the isolator board is an impedance controlled microstrip. You can think of a sort of coax cable about those microstrips. Distance and electrical isolation is the way to go. This is why we use ABS plastic with lots of clearance between the enclosure and the PCB. Any badly connected shielding may act as an antenna. You shouldn't do that unless you really know what you are doing an can prove this in an EMI measument.

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

A few of us tried RFI shielding on the intona just as an experiment. A few felt that it was more than wishful thinking with the improvement....just as JCAT did theirs.

It was a cheap experiment but we think it was worth it..

As Daniel rightly says this is dependant what RFI EMI is around...moving away from sources..

 

Anything for a cheap or free improvement...

 

Good luck

 

Dave

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

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Idefender allows a simple way to apply cleaner 5v and a GND lift / ground loop via their ISO tech. No battery but I will attach a 20000mah battery. via the mini port.... Don't know about the RUR but I am sure someone has mixed them.....

 

http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-idefender3-0/

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

This post sorry Fob?

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

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J'm just listening to music with Etalon LAN isolator received yesterday. Looks like it stays in my chain for good ! Can't compare to the optical bridge - didn't had one. It improves 3D image , overall clarity and gives tighter , fuller bass. It's a smaller step than with Jcat USB Izolator but seems to have only positive impact. Maybe voice become slightly thinner.

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J'm just listening to music with Etalon LAN isolator received yesterday. Looks like it stays in my chain for good ! Can't compare to the optical bridge - didn't had one. It improves 3D image , overall clarity and gives tighter , fuller bass. It's a smaller step than with Jcat USB Izolator but seems to have only positive impact. Maybe voice become slightly thinner.

Nice to know! I heard a lot of good reports regarding the Etalon Isolator lately. Someone also said that the Etalon streamer is suppose to be pretty special...even better SQ than mR. Never heard any of them myself though...

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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Hmm, mayby I should try than. I had been tried ipurifier2 but found it works like a perfume, makes music rounded , warm. Its influence was too ...Creative.

 

Yes, RUR or Regen powered wisely is a good complement to Intona/Jplay isolator. AQ jitterbug's benefits all depends on the setup and personal sound flavour (ie. not at all neutral).

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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I lined mine with copper tape but made sure there was no contact with anything, so it should just mirror a floating metal box.

 

A few of us tried RFI shielding on the intona just as an experiment. A few felt that it was more than wishful thinking with the improvement....just as JCAT did theirs.

It was a cheap experiment but we think it was worth it..

As Daniel rightly says this is dependant what RFI EMI is around...moving away from sources..

 

Anything for a cheap or free improvement...

 

Good luck

 

Dave

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

Source:

*Aurender N100 (no internal disk : LAN optically isolated via FMC with *LPS) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch - split for *LPS) > Intona Industrial (injected *LPS / internally shielded with copper tape) > DIY 5cm USB link (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > W4S Recovery (*LPS) > DIY 2cm USB adaptor (5v rail removed / ground lift switch) > *Auralic VEGA (EXACT : balanced)

 

Control:

*Jeff Rowland CAPRI S2 (balanced)

 

Playback:

2 x Revel B15a subs (balanced) > ATC SCM 50 ASL (balanced - 80Hz HPF from subs)

 

Misc:

*Via Power Inspired AG1500 AC Regenerator

LPS: 3 x Swagman Lab Audiophile Signature Edition (W4S, Intona & FMC)

Storage: QNAP TS-253Pro 2x 3Tb, 8Gb RAM

Cables: DIY heavy gauge solid silver (balanced)

Mains: dedicated distribution board with 5 x 2 socket ring mains, all mains cables: Mark Grant Black Series DSP 2.5 Dual Screen

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Yes, RUR or Regen powered wisely is a good complement to Intona/Jplay isolator. AQ jitterbug's benefits all depends on the setup and personal sound flavour (ie. not at all neutral).

 

What's the difference between the intona vs the JCAT? I see the JCAT is about $100 more. Where are most people buying these from? Any recommendations on best online resource for them?

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What's the difference between the intona vs the JCAT? I see the JCAT is about $100 more. Where are most people buying these from? Any recommendations on best online resource for them?

 

The Jcat Isolator is a Intona Industrial Isolator with a fancy (and practical) aluminium case. Buy them directly from Intona or Jplay.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

🎛️  Audio System  

 

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