Overall Isolation - network, USB, and power

[austinpop]

Yes. Having tried both, IMO isolation transfo are far beyond schaffners filters for HF filtering.

I think the recommended Topaz are really good stuff but in my case there would be a strong divorce risk.

 

About the new killer audio upgrade ... I did it today :-)

 

I removed my schaffners that IMO are no really useful since i isolate my digital chain with batteries and did a star ring with braided unshielded copper silver alpha wire AWG 24 with PTFE sleeve (and isolate the TV box supply that is in the same box but on an other AC line).

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30507[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30508[/ATTACH]

 

My 2X lifep4 battery supply is operationnal and works wonderfull but i am doing an other box. I will post pictures and info when it will be finished (probably next week).

 

B.

 

Looks great, but it's going above my head. I have no idea what Schaffner filters are. And what do they have to do with AC-DC-AC regenerators?

 

I'm not much of a DIY guy, but definitely don't have the expertise to pursue DIY solutions at mains voltages!

 

 

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[fob69]

Schaffners modules are noise filters you put on AC lines to clean the HF noise. There are a lot of different ones. They are very comon and use in medical, audio, indutry ...

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

 

Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

[fob69]

It is true that this is not a DIY forum but i don't think i am out of the subject

 

 

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Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

[austinpop]

No worries. I was talking about my own inability to pursue DIY solutions. [emoji17]

 

 

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[fob69]

I do all my cables myself, it is really worth do it for quality, price and result. You can do 5$ great cables. For electronic i have general knoledges but no operationnal skills. For the battery supply it is nothing more that connect wires together.

 

(And Checking security basics is important with DIY).

 

 

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Tplink optical bridge/etalon streamer/audiogd nfb29/linn klout/athom sirrocco + athom rafale v38 hypex

[agladstone]

@agladstone

 

N100 > Intona > RUR > VEGA

... power everything with LPS, lift all USB GND via switches and remove all jitterbugs.

 

That's what I would do / have done.

Two questions:

1. How do you lift the 5V ground? I think sbooster sells a device that does that but I thought I read about a lot of incompatibility issues with DACs that need the handshake?

2. I assume you heard sound improvements by removing Jitterbugs, do you think RUR and Jitterbug don't play nice together? I was using the RUR with a jitterbug out of Aurender N100 the entire time?

[agladstone]

To add to above:

 

I added a Baaske between my cable modem and router. It made me feel better to have that isolation in place.

 

Did it make an SQ difference? To my ears: no, nothing I could discern.

 

 

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Thanks for the input, I should have my 3 network Isolators and the new Bluejeans Cat 6a Monday or Tuesday! I bought Halo brand isolators they look similar to the baaske.

[agladstone]

I am using the Supra F-Con Isolator on my router input with good results GSS AERIAL F-CON

 

 

I am also planning to change my current SAT cable to this QED dito QED Professional Satellite Extension Cable (F-Connector) CUSTOM - FutureShop.co.uk

 

 

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Computer Audiophile mobile app

 

I saw that one on Amazon, I think I need a different one made by Jensen that allows for MIMO (it has a larger range so that it can work with the new MIMO cable boxes)

im going to try it since I'm in a condo building, my cable from the street is split 65 ways within the building, that can't be good for grounding)!!

[r_w]

Until someone brings out a product you probably have to make a DIY cable with a switch to lift the GND - I think finally Ifi iDefender might have just made something that removes GND however, but not sure if it's the same thing as completely cutting GND after handshake.

Jitterbugs (AQJB) are for lesser gear that needs serious help (computers, cheap streamers, etc)... the N100 does not need that level of help - AQJB sucks life out of the music on good gear such as Aurender - not just my experience, others on CA heard the same.

 

 

Two questions:

1. How do you lift the 5V ground? I think sbooster sells a device that does that but I thought I read about a lot of incompatibility issues with DACs that need the handshake?

2. I assume you heard sound improvements by removing Jitterbugs, do you think RUR and Jitterbug don't play nice together? I was using the RUR with a jitterbug out of Aurender N100 the entire time?

[Middy]

My idefender should be here soon I'll let you know what I think. I can't cut my 5v with the Brooklyn's DAC...

So I will see if it makes a difference with ISO ground... But the 5V port will work nice with my 5v battery 20000mah. The Idefender should beat the last parts to make a DIY cable with a dip to fit the ground connections in the post...

I just have otg transport so no ground loops..An expensive 5v port if it doesn't work for me... but may improve computer noise for the pc transport....

 

Sent from my SM-G900F using Computer Audiophile mobile app

[lmitche]

To add to above:

 

I added a Baaske between my cable modem and router. It made me feel better to have that isolation in place.

 

Did it make an SQ difference? To my ears: no, nothing I could discern.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

Yea, but your network may run faster. Also a wired network capable TV will have a better picture.

[r_w]

I thought I'd take a snap of the power injection USB cable that I made that has GND lift for the Data (Server) side.

 

The black lead provides the power (from an LPS) to pins 1 & 4... the white lead provides data for pins 2 & 3 and a switch bridges the GND/screen of the data cable (a twisted pair with screen = a balanced cable) to pin 4.

 

After handshake the Server (Data) GND is switched out.

 

 

... the Output side of the Intona also has a GND lift cable (without 5v rail) feeding the W4S Recovery

 

 

... then the W4S Recovery has a GND lift adapter (without 5v rail) feeding the VEGA DAC.

 

 

That is my USB chain.

 

Hope that helps / is of interest (acknowledging that this setup will not work for everyone - as in if anything needs 5V or GND it will not work).

 

 

Two questions:

1. How do you lift the 5V ground? I think sbooster sells a device that does that but I thought I read about a lot of incompatibility issues with DACs that need the handshake?

[austinpop]

Yea, but your network may run faster. Also a wired network capable TV will have a better picture.

 

Nope, ran some speed tests, both point to point within my network, and external to speedtest.net, and got very similar numbers. My bigger concern was that the isolator may become a bottleneck, but that doesn't seem to be the case.

 

I think I'm blessed with good wiring in my house, which is only 16 years old. Also, I think I already have an isolator on the cable input that Time Warner installed.

 

Anyway, like I said, I wasn't expecting any improvements - I just like the extra protection of having an isolator in place.

 

All good.

[agladstone]

Until someone brings out a product you probably have to make a DIY cable with a switch to lift the GND - I think finally Ifi iDefender might have just made something that removes GND however, but not sure if it's the same thing as completely cutting GND after handshake.

Jitterbugs (AQJB) are for lesser gear that needs serious help (computers, cheap streamers, etc)... the N100 does not need that level of help - AQJB sucks life out of the music on good gear such as Aurender - not just my experience, others on CA heard the same.

 

Thank you!!

I just removed the Jitterbug based on your comments and I just received my 3 Network Isolators (made by Prot-tek5 , they look a lot like the baaske ones) and all my new replacement Ethernet cables (BlueJeans Cat 6a to replace my cables to go Cat 7's with shielding and metal connectors).

Once I get everything inserted in my system and reconnected (with Jitterbug and RUR out of path for the moment), I will report back my results to the this thread (thank you everyone for advice and suggestions thus far!!).

After this , I may purchase an LPS-1 or other Linear Power Supply and see what that does. If I'm completely satisfied with sound quality after the new cat 6a and Isolators, I may save the money I would spend on another power supply and just sell my RUR and my full loom curious cables (if anyone here is interested in buying the set, please PM me!!)

[austinpop]

I thought I'd take a snap of the power injection USB cable that I made that has GND lift for the Data (Server) side.

 

The black lead provides the power (from an LPS) to pins 1 & 4... the white lead provides data for pins 2 & 3 and a switch bridges the GND/screen of the data cable (a twisted pair with screen = a balanced cable) to pin 4.

 

After handshake the Server (Data) GND is switched out.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30518[/ATTACH]

 

... the Output side of the Intona also has a GND lift cable (without 5v rail) feeding the W4S Recovery

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30519[/ATTACH]

 

... then the W4S Recovery has a GND lift adapter (without 5v rail) feeding the VEGA DAC.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30520[/ATTACH]

 

That is my USB chain.

 

Hope that helps / is of interest (acknowledging that this setup will not work for everyone - as in if anything needs 5V or GND it will not work).

Truly inspirational!

 

Takes real dedication to go flip those little switches (On, then Off) every time you turn on your system!

 

Are you concerned about wear and tear on those little switches? How many cycles are they rated for, do you know?

[agladstone]

I thought I'd take a snap of the power injection USB cable that I made that has GND lift for the Data (Server) side.

 

The black lead provides the power (from an LPS) to pins 1 & 4... the white lead provides data for pins 2 & 3 and a switch bridges the GND/screen of the data cable (a twisted pair with screen = a balanced cable) to pin 4.

 

After handshake the Server (Data) GND is switched out.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30518[/ATTACH]

 

... the Output side of the Intona also has a GND lift cable (without 5v rail) feeding the W4S Recovery

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30519[/ATTACH]

 

... then the W4S Recovery has a GND lift adapter (without 5v rail) feeding the VEGA DAC.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]30520[/ATTACH]

 

That is my USB chain.

 

Hope that helps / is of interest (acknowledging that this setup will not work for everyone - as in if anything needs 5V or GND it will not work).

Very impressive DIY!! I only wish that I had the knowledge and capability to do this myself! My Cardas HS USB cables (and my unused Curious Cables "full loom" all have split cable designs, so I suspect creating something similar via a hack to my existing split cables could be possible, but totally out of my league/ capabilities)!

Also my Mytek DAC does require the 5V, so it would not work for my system.

Do you think the Intona would help within my chain even with the 5V in place ?

That may be my next purchase

[r_w]

It is never turned off.

 

;-)

 

Truly inspirational!

 

Takes real dedication to go flip those little switches (On, then Off) every time you turn on your system!

 

Are you concerned about wear and tear on those little switches? How many cycles are they rated for, do you know?

[r_w]

The Intona Industrial / JCAT is excellent, I'm sure it will.

 

Very impressive DIY!! I only wish that I had the knowledge and capability to do this myself! My Cardas HS USB cables (and my unused Curious Cables "full loom" all have split cable designs, so I suspect creating something similar via a hack to my existing split cables could be possible, but totally out of my league/ capabilities)!

Also my Mytek DAC does require the 5V, so it would not work for my system.

Do you think the Intona would help within my chain even with the 5V in place ?

That may be my next purchase

[agladstone]

FYI, I've not heard anyone using these network Isolators in their systems.

Tbey were advertised as "Halo Network Isolators", but the Isolator itself has "Pro-Tek5"

printed in them as the brand.

I bought these from the same seller that was selling the Baaske Isolators, I had thought they did not have the metal Ethernet housing (the Baaske does) and that perhaps it was better, but it turns out that they do (bad picture in ebay).

If anyone know about these, let me know, otherwise, I thought I would inform the thread of yet another brand of isolator out there that may work (they sell these on Amazon also).

[austinpop]

FYI, I've not heard anyone using these network Isolators in their systems.

Tbey were advertised as "Halo Network Isolators", but the Isolator itself has "Pro-Tek5"

printed in them as the brand.

I bought these from the same seller that was selling the Baaske Isolators, I had thought they did not have the metal Ethernet housing (the Baaske does) and that perhaps it was better, but it turns out that they do (bad picture in ebay).

If anyone know about these, let me know, otherwise, I thought I would inform the thread of yet another brand of isolator out there that may work (they sell these on Amazon also).

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.

 

- The Bard

[jfaok]

Currently my Aurender N100h is connected to my Auralic Vega dac in the following manner.

 

Aurender - VBus2 - USB cable - W4S Recovery powered by Ifi 9v - solid coupler - dac.

 

I thought it would be interesting to try powering the Recovery with batteries as others have done and got a cheap 6*AA battery clip with 2.1mm DC plug. In preparation I had fully charged 6 Eneloop batteries.

 

After a short listen to my system with the Ifi psu in place I did a quick power down and changed over to the battery.

 

I was pleasantly surprised. The sound grew in size, was more open, detailed, dynamic, highs and lows were improved. But what really surprised me was that the sound seemed to increase in volume by what I would estimate was by about two notches on the volume control of my amplifier.

 

Why would the volume increase? I changed nothing other than the battery. Anyone any ideas?

[austinpop]

Currently my Aurender N100h is connected to my Auralic Vega dac in the following manner.

 

Aurender - VBus2 - USB cable - W4S Recovery powered by Ifi 9v - solid coupler - dac.

 

I thought it would be interesting to try powering the Recovery with batteries as others have done and got a cheap 6*AA battery clip with 2.1mm DC plug. In preparation I had fully charged 6 Eneloop batteries.

 

After a short listen to my system with the Ifi psu in place I did a quick power down and changed over to the battery.

 

I was pleasantly surprised. The sound grew in size, was more open, detailed, dynamic, highs and lows were improved. But what really surprised me was that the sound seemed to increase in volume by what I would estimate was by about two notches on the volume control of my amplifier.

 

Why would the volume increase? I changed nothing other than the battery. Anyone any ideas?

 

I suspect it's a matter of perception due to the lowered noise floor. Battery supplies typically reduce leakage loops.

 

Just enjoy it! [emoji6]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Computer Audiophile

[jfaok]

Thanks. It just wasn't expected. I don't recall any others mentioning an increase in volume.

[Middy]

Very impressive DIY!! I only wish that I had the knowledge and capability to do this myself! My Cardas HS USB cables (and my unused Curious Cables "full loom" all have split cable designs, so I suspect creating something similar via a hack to my existing split cables could be possible, but totally out of my league/ capabilities)!

Also my Mytek DAC does require the 5V, so it would not work for my system.

Do you think the Intona would help within my chain even with the 5V in place ?

That may be my next purchase

I have the intona with my Brooklyn. ..Mine is a mobile phone transport not a pc but..the intona is a winner. I just bought the Idefender so that does a similar thing. I feed 5v battery pre intona via the Idefender just last night. Seems ok from my home made splitter of battery 5v.

but my Mr speakers are shipping today for an upgrade...3 weeks min +200 hours re burn in when they come back....So a far comparison is not until near xmas....... Sorry bad timing...

I will try a mod GND lift as well as IFI'S iso tech with the defender....

I have a ifi ipurifier 2 pre intona as well..it was what I had...[emoji4]

 

Intona + Mytek =yes. I did a aluminium case for it like the jcat-usb-isolator... It did improve SQ with rfi protection....

 

I did think of using deoxit gold as a lube for the dip switches......

 

Good luck

Dave

 

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[agladstone]

I saw that one on Amazon, I think I need a different one made by Jensen that allows for MIMO (it has a larger range so that it can work with the new MIMO cable boxes)

im going to try it since I'm in a condo building, my cable from the street is split 65 ways within the building, that can't be good for grounding)!!

I just bought a similar one of these made by Jensen, two questions:

are you using a male to female adapter with this to connect it?

Do you have this after splitter and before cable modem? Do you have a cable TV box also? I have line into house, that splits into cabkenmidem and cablen box, I'm not sure if this should go before or after the splitter and if after splitter if it should go in cable box or modem leg??

thanks !